Cifonelli navy suit
December 6th 2013Lorenzo Cifonelli made me this beautiful suit at the beginning of the year, and I’ve meaning to write about it ever since. He has cut two jackets for me in the past, a pale-grey cashmere DB and a green tweed SB. I gave details about both o...
Cifonelli navy suit
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Hey Nick, The waistcoat shouldn't make any difference to the fit, no. But I would still go with two piece. I never wear a waistcoat these days, and it feels too smart most of the time....
A great suit cleaning option: Press2Dress
December 2nd 2013In the search for decent sponge-and-press services, I recently tried Press2Dress, a dry cleaner based in south London and run by Michael Norman. Michael is developing an online service that specialises in cleaning and pressing for bespoke clothing. H...
A great suit cleaning option: Press2Dress
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Thanks Michael (& Simon). When I next need to dry clean some of my suits Ill send you a message. Cheers....
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
November 29th 2013For those that were interested in the Chittleborough & Morgan suit I wrote about last week, here are some more images. The photography was done by new online luxury magazine Essence, for whom I wrote a short piece on Anderson & Sheppa...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit – at A�...
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Around a year ago. And no, not in the immediate future....
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
November 22nd 2013My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent str...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4
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very fine indeed. Not much to match C&M on the Row....
In praise of the cotton suit
October 21st 2013Cotton gabardine is probably the best suit material for men who don’t like suits. It is soft and casual, shaping to the body in the way cotton will, but not bagging like corduroy or wrinkling like linen. It also ages subtly and gracefully. The ...
In praise of the cotton suit
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Yes I think so, obviously depending on the formality of the office. I'd say more SB to start with, DB is a bit more specialist and the lack of drapw doesn't help them. Yes that sounds good...
First Harrod’s video on suits and style
October 4th 2013The film was made to coincide with the made-to-measure events coming up at Harrod’s. You can see the other video with Richard James here.
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
September 18th 2013The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
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It's not a normal weight, no, that would be much more like 11-13oz. If you want a versatile office suit, I wouldn't recommend it. I did have one, but regret it for that use. Yes it looks more sporting - more like a hacki...
Video on suits and their construction
September 11th 2013Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new MTM/bespoke initiative at...
Video on suits and their construction
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Thanks Simon. That looks spot on. Cruel though to send that video to an emigrant Irish man. Rory's accent is killing me. I'll be crying into a pint of Guinness tonight....
Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...
August 23rd 2013Dear Simon, I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The la...
Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...
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I think you might have misunderstood my tone Roy. I meant stupid purely as a term of hyperbole - that there is a huge amount of it. French suits do have a much larger amount of hand finishing. However, it is also largely...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2
July 3rd 2013This is the second fitting on my navy three-piece suit from Chittleborough & Morgan. As with any tailor I try for the first time, I encouraged Joe (Morgan) to cut and make a suit to his style. It was interesting to see the differences from o...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 2
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No, not really. The more you try the more tired you get of working with a new cutter to get your pattern right. I only tried Joe because his style is so unique. Too much emphasis is also put on the brands of tailoring ho...
Having a suit dry cleaned: Jeeves of Belgravia
June 24th 2013Suits should not be dry-cleaned very often. For some I know on and around Savile Row, that means once every six months. For others, it means never. The exact amount, of course, depends also on how often and in what manner you wear your suits. When th...
Having a suit dry cleaned: Jeeves of Belgravia
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Yes, have a look on this post...
Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
June 20th 2013By popular request, here’s a picture of Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan in his navy seersucker suit at the Savile Row event on Monday. Pretty special, isn’t it? Look out for the first post on fitting my Chittleb...
Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
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I've always preferred linen personally - subtler perhaps than seersucker. But I'm actually trying out a suit at the moment, so we'll see how that turns out...
How to pick buttons for a suit
June 14th 2013Simon, I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...
How to pick buttons for a suit
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I went here based on this recommendation- what a cool store! Very nice and extremely helpful person working there. I picked up some corozo buttons for a fun project....
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
June 4th 2013As a quick teaser during our US-themed week, above is my suit from Chittleborough & Morgan at the basted stage. The broad, peaked lapels and strong shoulders are immediately obvious, but during the fitting the most interesting points were the...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
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Hi Bradley, thanks for your note but the house coat is not mine. I'm not sure I would wear one - I prefer a heavy dressing gown if anything. I have a Budd one from Merchant Fox Simon...
How to wear socks with a suit: Reader question
May 17th 2013Colours that go with tan Dear Simon, I’m getting stuck putting an outfit together, and what it comes down to is the socks. I’m wearing a mid-grey worsted wool suit with a sky-blue shirt and regimental tie of burgundy and navy st...
How to wear socks with a suit: Reader question
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Not sure I quite agree with Antonio, but if you're not going to think about them, then yes navy is probably the safest option!...
Reader question: Cashmere suits
April 22nd 2013Dear Simon, Hello and congratulations on your blog’s recent milestone! I have a question regarding cashmere suits. I am thinking of buying a suit that is 100% cashmere. Now I have come across many suits that are wool/cashmere blends, but...
Reader question: Cashmere suits
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That cashmere is a tiny proportion Chris, it will make no difference to the feel of the suit. Better to go for a nice merino. And it's not a good sign that they include polyester as well... no good suit cloth will...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
April 12th 2013I recently began a suit project with Joe Morgan, one of the most supremely talented cutters on the Row. Joe is both technically exacting and stylistically innovative. Not only does he make best use of the Tommy Nutter inheritance, updating those big ...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one
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It wasn't a cavalry twill I don't think, and it wasn't in a current bunch, but there wouldn't be much difference between this and a whipcord. Or rather, these types of cords will vary just as much within their type as be...
Reader question: belts with suits
March 29th 2013Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...
Reader question: belts with suits
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Regarding suit jackets, I’ll be trying my current Steed Jacket, currently paired with trousers and braces/side-adjusters, with another pair of “belted”and indeed very much cheaper RTW grey trousers to check the loo...
How to buy a quality suit
February 12th 2013Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular culture is a safety ...
How to buy a quality suit
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Refreshing honesty, thanks. That's where as a customer we have to make our decisions as informed as possible. And that's where we have to set our priorities and, dare I say, our values. I think that more durability per s...
A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question
October 3rd 2012Normal.dotm 0 0 1 492 2805 Euromoney PLC 23 5 3444 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Dear Simon, I hope that you don’t mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I ne...
A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question
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Hi Jae. I'm afraid it's not an easy answer, because MTM varies hugely in terms of quality of make, and fit. If you can afford bespoke, I'd generally say go with that though; and don't bother with upgraded cloth...
How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question
September 27th 2012Hi Simon, First of all let me say I’m a massive fan of your blog. In fact I’ve even cancelled my GQ subscription because of your blog. Doesn’t mean you should start charging us though! I was wondering if you could do a p...
How to pack a suit jacket: Reader question
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I don't really buy hangers, I just use ones supplied by tailors, but if you wanted some very good ones, look at Nakata, supplied by Arterton. I don't really buy especially breathable suit covers either, I have enough fro...
Wear heavier suits
August 8th 2012Talking to Parisian tailors this past week, it struck me how many clients push for lighter and lighter-weight cloths for their suits. In many ways, this can be misguided. First, as Julien de Luca pointed in the recent piece on Camps de Luca, the stru...
Wear heavier suits
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Hi Christian, Most English mills offer suitings that are that kind of weight - just not the Europeans usually, like Zegna, Loro Piana, Scabal etc. Have you looked at any English suiting bunches?...
Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit
July 20th 2012Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossible The linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on the wall; there is a real s...
Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit
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Good point Sam. I would recommend Henry Poole probably the most highly, then Dege and Kent & Haste...
Blue and brown suit combinations
July 18th 2012Talking to Alan Flusser in New York recently got me thinking about all the old colour combinations he describes in Dressing the Man. And the leaflets he had scattered about the shop expanded on a few of those – in particular, and close to my he...
Blue and brown suit combinations
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Agreed: More specifically, Tan with Navy, lighter blues with brown. (One could go into all the nuances of both colours!) Of the first two Flusser examples, the first is slightly less colour-schemed; saved by the pocket s...
Peak-lapel single breasted suits
July 11th 2012Normal.dotm 0 0 1 324 1847 Euromoney PLC 15 3 2268 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false I don’t generally like peak lapels on single-breasted suits. They aren’t necessarily wrong – although notch lapels are far more common...
Peak-lapel single breasted suits
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I'd always go double vent - the only reason to go single would be if you're consciously riffing on the Ivy theme and that's the particular look you want. A double vent is more flattering and most ready-made jackets are s...
