By J Patrick Truhn, with contributions from Maximillian Mogg and The Heritage Post.
‘Berlin’ and ‘sartorial’ are not words one is accustomed to seeing in the same sentence. This “poor, but sexy” (to quote a previous mayor) haven for hipsters has become more expensive during the decades since reunification, but the irreverent, anarchic strain remains. While Berlin is not likely to challenge Milan, Paris or London for sartorial supremacy anytime soon, there is no shortage of talent turning out first-rate clothes and accessories, often off the beaten path.
There are, of course, the inevitable international designer boutiques that line several kilometres of the Kurfürstendamm (usually abbreviated ‘Kudamm’) and Tauentzienstraße, the main axis of former West Berlin, while an attempt to turn Friedrichstraße in the East into a similar hub has largely failed, for economic as well as urbanistic reasons.
But beyond both of these areas there is much creativity and independent excellence in menswear – the focus of these Permanent Style guides – to be discovered.
Bespoke tailors
Egon Brandstetter
http://www.egonbrandstetter.de
Chausseestraße 50, Mitte
Egon Brandstetter has recently gained renown for appearing – as himself – in the motion picture Tár (he made a green jacket for Cate Blanchett), but has been creating bespoke suits and shirts in Berlin for 15 years, working with a team of apprentices at the massive wooden table that serves as the shop’s centrepiece. He began his career making costumes for the English National Opera and Vienna State Opera, with additional stints at the Salzburg and Bregenz Festivals. Above is a nearly finished waistcoat from a vintage fabric designed by Dagobert Peche for Backhausen.
Maximilian Mogg
Bleibtreustraße 27, Charlottenburg
Mogg has a major social media presence, regularly posting ‘Mogg TV’ episodes on his Instagram site. Within their Tommy-Nutter-esque house style – featuring pagoda shoulders, wide, belly-shaped lapels and high-waisted trousers – they offer factory-made made-to-measure with hand details and fully handmade bespoke; the latter being cut by Savile Row-trained and Golden Shears winner Riki Brockman. There is a second outpost in Cologne, and regular trunk shows in the United States, UK and elsewhere in Western Europe.
James Whitfield Bespoke
Wilhelmshavener Straße 7, Moabit
A former cutter for Anderson and Sheppard, Whitfield is the most experienced Savile Row-trained tailor working in Germany today. He initially led the tailoring operation at Purwin & Radczun (see below), but set up on his own in 2019. His shop and studio are located in the warehouse of the noted contemporary art gallery Galerie Kewenig, a former battery storage facility. In his own words, his philosophy is “elegant design, exquisite materials, beautifully made”.
Purwin & Radczun
Torstraße 147, Mitte
Martin Purwin was a fabric salesman for Kiton and Armani, and Boris Radczun was the founder of two of Berlin’s most successful restaurants (Grill Royal and the recently closed Pauly Saal); they opened their bespoke tailoring operation – with James Whitfield as their chief tailor – a decade ago. The website has not been updated for years, but their frequent Instagram posts (@purwinradczun) provide a good selection of their style and work. A ready-to-wear line is sold occasionally at Torstraße 106.
Herrenschneider Amann
Kiefholzstrasse 14, 12435 Berlin (Alt-Treptow)
Alexander Amann was trained at the infamous Düsseldorf bespoke tailor Heinz-Josef Radermacher. Modern, sleek lines with a touch of rock ’n’ roll, fully handmade on the premises.
Bespoke shirts and shoes
Maßatelier Fasan
Giesebrechtstr. 18, 10629 Berlin, Charlottenburg – but currently closed, moving to a new location
Maßatelier Fasan has been making bespoke shirting for over 70 years. They offer bespoke shirts, blouses, pyjamas and morning gowns, and make on the premises in Charlottenburg’s exclusive Giesebrechtstraße.
Campe & Ohff
Leibnitzstraße 53, Charlottenburg
A tiny but charming shop on Walter-Benjamin-Platz that is dedicated above all to custom-made shirts, which are produced in the firm’s workshop in Lauterbach, Hessen. In addition, there is a small but excellent collection of silk neckwear, pocket squares, boxer shorts, handkerchiefs, and socks. Campe & Ohff also have a store in Hamburg.
Korbinian Ludwig Hess (KLH)
Hohenzollerndamm 201, Wilmersdorf
A bespoke shoe workshop with makers trained in Vienna, London and Florence. Waiting times of at least six months, and rather traditional styles, but shoes that are built to last a lifetime. There is also a small selection of ready-made shoes and small leather goods that can be ordered online. Pictured above.
Other artisans
The Hackesche Höfe in Mitte is the largest courtyard complex in all of Germany. Built between 1905 and 1907 and under historic preservation since 1977, it consists of eight courtyards with entrances on Rosenthaler Straße and Sophienstraße. Most of the shops contain local artisans, many of whom have workshops attached to their stores. Of particular note:
Askania (Hof I)
Founded in 1871 as a manufacturer of precision instruments such as naval and aviation chronometers, the company was re-founded in 2006 and manufactures watches in Berlin. The flagship store is in the original, late Jugendstil party room of the Hackesche Höfe.
Auerbach (Hof III)
Ties, braces, ascots, scarves and pocket squares, produced on the premises in an underground atelier.
Hoffnung Berlin (Hof IV)
A belt shop founded in 1985, offering 40 different leathers and adjustments, with which one can design handmade belts or buy ready-made models. Pictured below.
Mühle Rasurkultur (Hof IV)
Founded in the Erzgebirge, southwest of Dresden, in 1945, Mühle (‘Mill’) produces top-notch razors and shaving brushes. The store also features arguably Berlin’s finest barber, who offers haircuts, beard treatments, and straight-razor shaves. Mühle also has a shaving store on Newburgh Street in London. Pictured above.
Schirm Schirmer
Kieler Straße 6, Steglitz
Rolf Lippke is Berlin’s last umbrella-maker and -repairer. The trade was officially removed from the list of training occupations in 1998.
Salon Hüte und Accessoires Herrensalon
Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg
In addition to selling hats, both hand-crafted and those of such brands as Borsalino and Stetson, this shop provides repairs such as re-banding.
Fiona Bennett
Potsdamer Straße 81-83
A British-born hat designer that makes men’s and women’s bespoke, often in striking designs.
Classic Shoe Care Service (Valentin Zamora Lopez)
Kaufhauf des Westens (KaDeWe), 1st floor (men’s shoe department)
and
Shoeshine Europa Center (Alisan Genccagi)
Tauentzienstraße 9-12, Charlottenburg, ground floor
The last two shoeshines in Berlin
Retailers
14 oz
Münzstraße 21/1, Mitte
14 oz is a menswear retailer with real character and great curation. The store focuses on urban high-quality ready-to-wear. Brands include Drake’s, Ludwig Reiter, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, RRL, Barbour, Mackintosh, Alden and Tricker’s.
Claudia Skoda
Mulackstr. 8, Mitte
Claudia Skoda is a German knitwear designer who has been an icon of the Berlin underground scene since the 1970s. She is known for her spectacular, avant-garde fashion shows as well as her collaborations with artists and musicians, such as David Bowie. All pieces handmade in Berlin.
Mientus
Wilmersdorfer Straße 73 (flagship) and Kurfürstendamm 52
Berlin’s largest multibrand shop, offering under one roof most of the major designers whose stores line the Kudamm.
Patrick Hellmann Collection
Bleibtreustraße 36, Charlottenburg
Berlin’s leading menswear designer, whose ready-to-wear and made-to measure suits clothe many of the local elite. A ‘casual’ store has opened nearby at Kurfürstendamm 44.
Herr von Eden
Alte Schönhauser Straße 14, Mitte
Berlin branch of a Hamburg-based company selling rakish, retro-looking suits with colourful linings, as well as dressing gowns and accessories.
Hannes Roether Berlin
Torstraße 109, Mitte
Understated, comfortable pieces in a subdued palette of black, grey, navy, and earth tones. Roether is a Munich-based designer whose work, along with that of similar German designers, can also be found at:
Müller + Reitz
Fasanenstraße 61, Charlottenburg
Andreas Murkudis
Potsdamer Straße 81, Tiergarten
A curated presentation of over 300 brands in a vast, light-filled, gallery-like environment (the former printworks of the Tagesspiegel newspaper). From Inis Meáin knitwear to Yohji Yamamoto pleats to playful Dries Van Noten prints, it has broad appeal. Pictured below.
Harveys Böhnisch
Kufürstendamm 56, Charlottenburg
A multibrand shop run by Frieder Böhnisch that has specialised in avant-garde fashions for more than 50 years. In recent decades the focus has been on Japanese menswear, from the likes of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons.
Trüffelschwein
Rosa-Luxembourg-Straße 21, Mitte
Like the eponymous truffle-hunting pig, this store’s manager often sniffs out up-and-coming manufacturers (at present the likes of Armor Lux, Hansen, and Universal Works) before they make it big.
Schuhkonzept
Bleibtreustraße 24, Charlottenburg
The “concept” is to offer a selection of high-end shoe brands such as Lobb, Church’s and Carmina, an expert repair service and an intensive shoe care service, all under one roof.
Budapester Schuhe
Kurfürstendamm 43, Charlottenburg
Carries a wide selection of models from Crockett and Jones and other prominent shoemakers.
Department stores
Kaufhaus des Westens (generally abbreviated KaDeWe)
Wittenbergplatz, Charlottenburg
Founded in 1907, KaDeWe is the second-largest department store in Europe (after Harrod’s), and has recently undergone a comprehensive renovation. The menswear department is on the first floor. Some luxury brands (Hermès, Louis Vuitton) have their boutiques on the ground floor. The 6th floor is devoted to food and restaurants.
Galeries Lafayette
Friedrichstraße 76-78, Mitte
Located in a landmark nineties building by the French architect Jean Nouvel, Galeries Lafayette anchored a new upscale retail presence in the centre of the former East Berlin following German reunification. The men’s department is on the first floor, and is particularly good for French manufacturers.
Simon,
This is an exquisite post!!
It’s my wish to visit Berlin.
When I see German tailoring, I envisage double breasted suits with very distinctive “pointed peak lapels”.
Look at the older style stereotype of the German Industrialist or indeed stockbroker.
Tailors like Heinz Joseph Radermacher, Kathrine Emmer and the like, albeit from other German cities and possibly others.
Great to see a beltmaker and Razor shop and barbers mentioned also. I’m a connoisseur of shaving products!
Looking forward to the next new city!!
Kathrin Emmer is located in Potsdam, a 25 minute train ride from Berlin.
Thank you
Lindsay
Kathrin Emmer is the best in Berlin IMHO.
Do you have any images of German industrialists you could share to illustrate this look? I’m curious!
Anton-Wolfgang Graf von Faber-Castell, Axel Cäsar Springer (though not an industrialist per se), Wolfgang Grupp (the latter as a negative example) would be same examples
Thank you very much for the guide! I was in Berlin beginning of the year and really missed not having this at hand. I feel that because Berlin is not so well stabished sartorially and because the stores are not so well concentrated in one location (vs London or Paris) it is hard to find those gems.
I note with interest the comment that Alexander Amann was trained under the infamous Heinz-Josef Radermacher.
Where does the “infamy” stem from or is that a typo?
I am not trying to be disrespectful or disparaging in this respect.
A right Carry On!
A lack of denim and workwear on the list. Two places worth visiting are DC4 (Japanese brands only, including some harder-to-find ones like The Strike Gold) and Burg & Schild (a wide selection, including The Real McCoy’s).
Thank you Robert, this is certainly more sartorially led – thank you for the additions.
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this overview..
I think it’s against this background that Michael Jondral’s shop in Hanover really stands out too.
This post might have missed out something quentessensial to Berlin and that is somehow puzling. Indeed, when it comes to denim, there is no other city in Europe where one could find such a wide variety of choices one can find in Berlin. It’s truely unbelievable! I wonder whether it isn’t a legacy of the GI’s since WWII.
John
The list lacks Manuela Leis, who trained at Amann and now mostly makes overcoats.
https://www.thecoatress.com/
Good point. Manuela is a genius when it comes to coats.
I miss the Chelsea Farmers Club, a shop, which was one of my favorites as I lived in Berlin. Somewhat unusual, bright colors paired with humor and a bit of Gin. But I don’t know, if the shop is still existing, assuming to the instagram profile it should be….
Unfortunately, the store has been closed for several years.
Dear Patrick,
I only follow them on Instagram…since I am not a resident in Berlin anymore.
But good to know, so I can skip the tour to Charlottenburg on my next trip to Berlin. But ordering in the online shop you still work. One of the beautiful knitted watches was a gift my wife recently gave to me.
It’s good to see that there are now bespoke makers in Berlin – there didn’t seem to be any at all when I lived there. Perhaps I just didn’t know where to look.
Any plans of having a suit made by Maximilian Mogg, Simon? I really like his style and would love to know how he measures up to the other tailors you have used.
Not currently Samuel, no
Thank you, Simon.
I would have loved a more personal view of Berlin. I think usually you or someone from the team (as Lucas for LA) actually visits the city personally and compiles the shopping guide. This piece feels a bit like out of the lonely planet – more like a list of shopping destinations than a real guide to me. I miss real recommendations and the sharing of experiences. Artisans are often merely noted as trained by someone etc. – but what do we make of it?
It’s also not clear for me how shops and artisans made the list, as someone else mentioned DC4 and Burg und Schild are clearly missing (at least for Berliners interested in Japanese Repro Brands). I have never been to clutch cafe but I think both run in the same vein as clutch. If this should be a sartorial list I don’t know why Trüffelschwein – a wonderful shop – made it.
Small points:
Maßatelier Fasan is changing location – the shop in Giesebrechtstraße is closed but the operation is running. A new location will be announced.
As far as I know there is no 14 oz in Charlottenburg any more – might be worth checking.
Müller+Reitz is missing a description.
Anyways thank you for this article, maybe you or someone from the team can update the guide someday.
Best
J
PS: A personal recommendation, Daki Meiners in Joachim-Friedrich-Straße 37 provides high quality independent shoe repair.
Hi J,
Yes that would have been nice. Unfortunately neither Lucas nor I was going to get to Berlin any time soon, and it was a really nice one to be able to cover. But we’ll certainly add some more personal angles to it when we do manage to visit.
I also knew PS readers would come through and add some great places too. The list was pretty sartorial, with only a small number of additions from the Heritage Post guys, so thank you for your recommendations. Is there anything else you’d add and perhaps we can put them on the list too?
Thank you for the points too. Muller+Reitz was included just as an addition to the listing above. I’ll add some notes on the others.
S
Hi Simon,
As I wrote adding Burg und Schild and DC4 would enhance the list.
J
From mid-February on Maßatelier Fasan will be located in Konstanzer Str. 3
Thanks for this great post! Unfortunately it’s about 5 months too late, since I was in Berlin for a week in early July… But hopefully I’ll be back again and can check out some of these fantastic looking shops!
Mr. Arnulf has retired as a tailor?
He ist based in the old town of Potsdam.
Thank you Anon… so still active? He must be in his 80ies.
Yes, I think 83 but still active.
I cannot recommend Maßatelier Fasan enough, most of my shirts were made there, others by Anna Matuozzo and some by Reiser in Munich. Maßatelier Fasan, which originated in Fasenenstrasse and then moved to Giesebrechtstrasse, operated out of the private home of its owner, Heinrich Sabielny. They also ran an excellent laundry service (shirts only), changing, mending, etc. your shirts. Hopefully they will find a new location soon.
Brummer in Tauentzienstrasse 17 is a great place for traditional british-like menswear. Small family operated business with friendly staff. Located on the second floor of a building near KaDeWe. brummer-berlin.de
Thank you Rolf
Frank Leder is based in Berlin and while I’m not sure if he had a shop there he has historically been very willing to host visitors at his atelier (and has clothes to try on and purchase there).
And if one is going to mention Harvey’s (as one should; Frieder is extremely nice, for one thing, even if his stock in trade is not exactly “classic menswear”), one should also mention Darklands, currently just around the corner from Andreas Murkurdis, its Carol Christian Poell–only offshoot, and nagnagnagshop, where its discounted pieces go.
Hi,
can anyone comment on Monokel Berlin?
merz b schwanen
any experience with monokel berlin mtm?