Everyday Denim shirts back in stock, and Lighter Denim for the first time

Monday, March 25th 2019
Share
||- Begin Content -||

[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here]

When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face.

Actually, it usually starts as something closer to relaxation. There’s a sense of relief; the shoulders relax; they take a breath, and then the smile starts.

And if you mention something you like – some technical or functional point – their eyes will often light up, excited that someone appreciates why the product was made that way.

When I meet readers, I always forget to ask useful market-research questions. How they heard of the site, what their favourite type of post is, how it could be improved.

But I immediately light up when they say they like one of the products we’ve developed. I know what that relief/pleasure feeling is like now, and I want to know every thought they have: why they like it, how it compares to other things they wear, what they wear it with.

This was what happened in the pop-up shop every day. Some of the readers that came in already had an Everyday Denim shirt and wanted to talk about it, while many of the rest wanted to see them in person.

From those talks I learnt that readers appreciate the difference between the darker and lighter shades, but actually find that either works with more formal clothes. (I added the lighter version in order to be smarter and better with a suit, blazer etc.)

I learnt that people were anxious for the shirt to start fading, and sometimes washed it three or four times before wearing it for the first time, in order to get that effect.

And I learnt that while readers love the handwork on the shirts – particularly for the price – several were confused by the tack stitch that is sewn halfway up the front. (Shown below, next to the button.)

In fact, two readers asked whether this was a mistake, and was meant to be cut off.

Well, no. Just so everyone knows, that stitch is functional and deliberate.

If you look on the inside, you will be able to see that the placket is sewn down halfway by hand. In the top half, it is left loose in order to roll open more naturally.

The tack stitch is there to finish that line of hand sewing, and prevent it coming undone. So please don’t cut it off. It’s a nice, tiny bit of functional sewing.

This is relevant because the Everyday Denim shirts are now back in stock on the Shop site, and for the first time there are shirts in the Lighter Denim as well.

In order to add some illustration and perhaps inspiration around both, Jerry Tong from Prologue (above) and I wore them out on a sunny day during the pop-up, to shoot with Milad Abedi.

I deliberately wore the Lighter Denim with jeans, to demonstrate a point I’ve made before – that this lighter colour is far enough removed from normal denim to be worn with jeans, and avoid a ‘double denim’ look.

(I must get blue-denim jeans that are higher waisted, though.)

Jerry wore the regular Everyday Denim, which probably makes a nicer match with his outfit. The slightly darker shade is a better partner for the cream trousers, creating a nice bit of contrast between them (see pic above).

Both shirts have been worn and washed 8-10 times, and you can see that while the Lighter Denim does fade as well, it’s not as marked as the Everyday.

As ever, the shirts are made by Luca Avitabile in Naples, using his curving button-down collar that sits so well around the collar of a jacket when open – and yet also sits proud when worn with a tie.

The shirts have several points of hand sewing, focusing on the most important and functional areas. So the sleeve and collar are attached by hand, as is the shoulder.

Aesthetic hand-sewn points are the buttons, buttonholes, and points like the back of the placket mentioned earlier.

The buttons we use are a smoky mother-of-pearl, which I think gives a slightly more casual and vintage look that suits the denim.

The sizing for the shirts is the same on both colours, and as the PS Oxford shirts – though slightly different to the Friday Polos as the material is so different.

Sizing chart and other details on the shop page.

In the photos here, Jerry and I are both wearing Mediums, which is a pretty good fit on us both despite him being a little shorter and bigger in the chest than me.

Jerry is also wearing trousers and jacket from his company, Prologue, with the jacket being in a Marling & Evans undyed-yarn cloth that I rather like.

I’m wearing my Eduardo de Simone cashmere jacket and Levi’s bespoke jeans.

Thank you to everyone that came to the pop-up and told me what they liked, disliked and were confused about.

I know why those artisans smile now. There’s nothing quite like making something people love.

For anyone that is new to Everyday Denim, here's a brief summary:

  • 'Everyday Denim' is so-called because it is a denim shirt a man in a modern office can wear every day. It is made in blue colours similar to a regular office shirt, but rendered more casual by its denim texture.
  • It uses a denim shirting from Albiate (part of the Albini group) that is exclusive to Permanent Style. A re-weaving of a cloth that wasn't commercial enough for mainstream stores because of its fading, but perfectly suits more advanced PS readers.
  • The shirts are made by Neapolitan bespoke shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, using several stages of hand-stitching to give it more of a bespoke fit (eg a smaller, hand-sewn armhole).
  • The cloth is a cotton twill, using 60/2 yarn in the warp and 120/2 in the weft. Being 2-ply is significant with denim, as most brands use cheap, single-ply yarn for denims - but 2-ply softens and wears better.
  • Everyday and Lighter Denim are both also available as raw material, in order to buy and give to a bespoke shirtmaker.
  • The shirts cost £180 plus VAT. As with everything on Permanent Style, the pricing is slightly below normal retail margins.
  • Made in Italy, ships from the UK.

In other stock news:

  • The PS Oxford shirts will be in stock again in about two weeks. Email [email protected] if you want to be on the waiting list.
  • We will also do shirts in the striped PS Oxford cloth, but they won't be ready for a few months. Again, email if you want to be notified about those.
  • There will be a restock of Friday Polos in about two months. There are some left, but with quite a few gaps.
  • Shorts will be back in about a month (with a new, extra colour). Hopefully by the time it's warming up in some places enough to wear them.
  • There are still plenty of Bridge Coats left, but there won't be any more Trench Coats until the Autumn.

Everyday Denim Shirts and cloth available on the shop site here.

Photography: Milad Abedi

Learn more about how Permanent Style’s collaborations work, and how else it is funded, here.

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
45 Comments
Oldest
Newest
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
PatrikJ

Thanks Simon I have been waiting for a re-stock. I just picked up one of each (Everyday and Lighter Denim). Just need some clarification, lighter is referring to color, rather than fabric weight, is that correct?

Matt

I love the shirt but had an issue, wonder if you could advise. It faded dramatically across the chest and upper back, almost white compared with the sleeves and lower front which faded more slowly. I had machine washed in cold alone or with another similar shirt and delicate detergent, line dried. No idea why this happened. In the end I bleached it and now have a decent off white (tinge of blue) shirt. Still decent.

Joel

Simon,

I had a similar experience with my lighter everyday denim. I think it’s from my briefcase and guitar strap to be honest. Still, you can’t really tell unless the shirt is wet from washing.

Anonymous

Does this run hot? Would lighter one work with khaki linen suit?

Richard Watson

Hi Simon
Good to receive the update on Friday Polos I will keep an eye out for when my size returns to stock.
On the EDS, do you have plans to have stock with some stores around London as you did with the Friday Polos? Unfortunately, I could not come to the pop up shop and it would be nice to see them and check sizes before buying.

Stephen

Hi Simon
Good to see your denim shirts are back in stock.
Please can you advise on what , if anything to allow for shrinkage. Also are they 30 or 40 degree wash?
Thanks
Stephen

Paul Marks

Hi Simon
Really like Jerry’s jacket and near ordered it at the pop up. Have you received yours from Jerry yet

Paul

Richard. P

Hi Simon,
I have been keeping an eye out for the restock of your Oxford shirts and noticed last week that they appeared to be back in stock. I subsequently ordered one in large. This contradicts slightly with your update today. Have I simply preordered? Having recently taken receipt of your everyday denim shirt, I am now, as you’d expect, very impatient for my next acquisition to arrive!!
Many thanks.
Richard

Richard Jones

You both look lovely. I caught you leaving the pop up, the day of this shoot. I remember your jeans sat perfectly on a suede spilt toe.

Stephen

Hi Simon
Apologies, another question. Are there any details on the back of the denim or Oxford shirts such as pleat or hanger loop. Also are they regular, tailored or slim fitting by design?
Thanks

Rune

Hi Simon!
I just regret that iI did not buy that Simon Abbarchi shirt that you had on the trunk show,
But a very ridiculous question: What is the difference between formal and informal?
I guess shirts in the article is quite versatile?
They could be used quite formal as well.
In todays world.
Or perhaps I am wrong?

JG

Hey Simon-

Did you ever get your new jeans with the lower front rise made by Liz/Levi’s? Curious how the new fit and fabric worked out. Thanks.

Rafael Ebron

Thanks! I was able to grab one. Nice touch with the packaging too. Wondering if you could do a run of oxford shirts, plain but the striped one looks cool too. No worries if not, great shirts though keep ’em coming. I do also like the polo shirts but I do prefer the usual collar versus spread.

Anon

Hi Simon,

When do you anticipate restocking the everday denim shirt? Thanks!

Anonymous

Simon,
Size wise I am obviously in between L and XL. When I got the denim shirt in L it was too tight. The XL for exchange I received is to roomy around the waist, so I wonder if darts to optimize the fit would ruin the appearance? Any suggestions?

Joe

Hi Simon,

I ordered a medium of the Everyday Denim recently (one of the last in stock, I think). It’s an absolutely beautiful fabric and the tone of the buttons compliments it perfectly. Unfortunately, it was just a tad too tight, especially around the chest: a bit of gaping between the buttons and pulling at the armpits. I wear a 15.75 collar in Drake’s shirts, which is about as perfect size-wise as I’ve come across for me. Comparing the measurements of those to the ED online ones, I’m keen to try a large when they’re back in stock. Do you have much experience of Drake’s RTW shirts and whether those sizes might be comparable? I’d probably generally prefer something to be a bit on the loose rather than on the tight side.

Thanks and sorry for the quite specific question!

Axel

Actually I have a fitting problem with Luca’s Denim bought here in the PS shop!
It seems that I am right in between L and XL. I had tied both, and opted finally for XL.
As everything is now slightly “spacy” would darts improve it? Or would this ruin the overall appearance?
Means I better stay without darts! Any recommendations?

DKP

Simon – not specific to your denim shirt but as you’ve mentioned the cloth itself can be purchased it raised a question with regards to purchasing fabric on its own. I’d imagine sourcing/selecting fabric with your shirtmaker will always be the easiest option but is there a way for the average person to browse and source shirting fabrics directly, i.e. some way to see what various shirting mills have available that your shirtmaker might not carry?

Evan T.

Hi Simon,
The listing on the webshop says ‘Made in a Naples atelier supervised by bespoke shirtmaker Luca Avitabile’. Is there a change in the manufacturing now?

Evan

Joel Cloninger

Simon,

I love the shirts you offer, especially the new oxfords. I now have an everyday lighter denim, the striped oxford, and the new white oxford. One difference I have noticed between the three is the buttons and how well they stay, for lack of a better term, buttoned. My two oxford shirts have no problems whatsoever staying buttoned, but the denim shirt seems to come unbuttoned and any sign of movement. In fact, I frequently look down and have 4 buttons unbuttoned on the placket! What do you think is the cause of this? Maybe the size of the button hole or maybe something to do with the button itself? Is there anyway to remedy this? I love the cloth and the cut and make of the shirt, its just a pain to close buttons all the time.

Joel

Thanks Simon. I don’t know if I currently have the sewing skills for this on a high quality shirt. I could get a local alterations place to look at doing it if that is easier than sending to Luca.

George

Simon
When will the denim cloth be back in stock? Any other shirting cloths to be released soon?
Thanks
George

George

Thanks Simon. Is it worth me waiting for the lighter denim to order my length of pink Oxford (want to send them to tailor in one batch) or is pink running low in stock?

Matthew Washer

Hi Simon,

I am torn between the Denim and Lighter Denim shirt, how could you compare them from a style point/wardrobe building perspective? I am looking for something that will work with chinos and jeans.

(I read on one of your comments that in your view the two most versatile PS shirts were the Blue Oxford and Everyday Denim, although this might have been before the lighter version came out). I already own the PS Oxford in Blue and the striped version, and love them!

It also seems that you’re not planning to restock the Everyday Denim, any reason?

Thanks,

Matthew