Viberg Service Boots: My choice of work boot
During the past Winter, I was vaguely looking to replace my longstanding work boots from Wolverine (above).
They’d done great service: on long country walks, camping in different parts of the country, and just going to the local park in rain, mud and snow.
But after 11 years the upper wasn’t in great shape, and the Wolverine make isn’t really on a par with the other shoes and boots I have. So I was looking to trade up.
It was an interesting journey, as it always is when you explore a new category of clothing (or indeed anything you enjoy) and I spoke to friends that were consumers, friends that were retailers, and a journalist or two.
I ended up settling on a pair of Viberg service boots (below) in a Horween brown Chromexcel. Seven eyelets, 2030 last, natural midsole, brown waxed laces and a stitchdown construction. As classic as it comes from Viberg.
In fact, a lot of what convinced me was the quality and approach of Viberg itself. So it’s probably worth explaining those, as well as giving some context of the work-boot category as a whole.
Not everyone likes the name ‘work boot’, but for a Permanent Style reader, I think it’s pretty apt.
Because what we’re talking about are boots that originated as equipment for proper heavy-duty work, and from companies that largely still make that kind of footwear.
This doesn’t really apply to any of the other brands we cover on PS. Someone like Tricker’s might be known for its boots, but they’re country footwear, not workwear. Harrison Ford might have built houses in Alden Indy boots, but the company is still arguably (and I expect argument here) a dress-shoe maker that also offers nice boots.
Work-boot companies like Red Wing, Whites or Wesco, on the other hand, made and make boots for logging, firefighting and ranching. Physical labour that requires a type of make.
What does this mean in practice? A chunky sole, certainly, but a thick midsole as well - sometimes a double one. Heavy, usually oiled uppers. Often a steel shank.
In terms of style it usually means a wider welt, a rounder toe, and sometimes white stitching or a natural mid-sole that separate the boot even further from the high-end makers we know.
The attraction to the lover of dress shoes is that these companies often still make along heritage lines, which means quality materials (eg full-grain leathers) and toughness through materials, rather than more steel or composites etc.
They’re boots that are still well made, but which you can camp in, climb in, and do similar outdoor activities.
Of course, the make depends a lot on the brand. And this is how I see the market (thanks to all those that provided information, experience and opinions here - and to readers that will doubtless chip in with their tuppence-worth now):
- Entry level is brands like Wolverine, Red Wing, Thorogood and perhaps Thursday boots. The latter is a newcomer, the others have history, but they’re all tough and very serviceable, with prices ranging around £200 to £300.
- The higher quality work boots come from the likes of White’s, Wesco and Nick’s Boots. These are a different quality level, pretty much indestructible, with double midsoles and huge leather footbeds. Prices rather higher, around £500 to £600.
- Viberg is more expensive still, around £700, and arguably out on its own. This is because they use finer materials (more calf, more Stead suede), and because there’s a more obvious push to offer more everyday, leisure styles. Which isn’t really what I was looking for, but more on that later.
Of course, the irony with comparing work-boot brands like this is that most of the time, fineness of make or materials doesn’t really matter.
The only thing the customer of a real work boot cares about is whether they’re comfortable to wear all day, protect the feet from everything, and last a really long time. It doesn’t matter if the sewing is a little wobbly.
The leisure customer might care more though - as well as caring about the style. Almost on the point of principle: they buy the best quality in everything else, so why should this be any different?
I won’t go into a lot of detail on Viberg, as that could be a whole post on its own (and it’s maybe an interesting one for those I know in Northampton, as much as consumers). But I’ll briefly explain why I liked the Service Boot.
Compared to a lot of work boots, it is made on a fairly slim last - the 2030, which owner Brett Viberg created in 2010 in the process of redefining the styles Viberg offered. (Brett is grandson of the Viberg founder.)
It also has a fairly low toe - not that far off the ground - which of course is called ‘spring’. Dress shoes vary in how much they have too, but it varies particularly in work boots, with some almost comically turned up (see the 310 boot).
Viberg boots had always been made with a fairly slim waist, in order to give greater support to the arch over hours of hard wear, and the combination of this with the new slim last created a Service Boot which it was much easier to wear outside work.
The result still looks very different to anything else we’d normally cover on PS. The toe box is still wider and higher. It’s a stitchdown construction, which you never get with dress shoes. And the Chromexcel leather of course starts looking oily and only gets more so, fading and creasing.
But as an option to wear outdoors, with the kind of chinos, sweatshirt and gilet sold by The Real McCoy’s and many others, it’s perfect.
The Viberg website is a little confusing, and personally I find the styles less appealing the further they get away from work boots - there are derbys, slippers and even trainers.
I did try a few other styles, including the chelsea boot and hiking boots, but only found the Halkett as another style I liked (below). It’s Goodyear-welted, and is a newer model aiming at a more urban customer.
The Halkett is nice, particularly in this ‘bitter chocolate’ grey/brown colour. But although welted, it still has the toe shape of a work boot to my eye. Which is not what I want from Viberg. I’m happy with my outdoorsy trade up.
Other clothes pictured:
- Joe McCoy chinos from The Real McCoys (separate article coming soon)
- Loopwheel sweatshirt from Merz B Schwanen via Trunk
Camping shot:
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
I had a real struggle with new boots. I knew I didn’t want the brogues of the traditional country boot, nor the toe cap look of the traditional work boot style.
Eventually I settled on a pair from WM Lennon- the 178 tan.
https://www.rufflander.co.uk/shop/heritage-footwear/town-and-country-boots/178-tan-waxy-leather-sole-boot/
Even these have the slight curl of the work boot. Very suitable for me (as I am rural) and, possibly, a little heavy for extended urban walking.
Excellent choice! William Lennon’s heritage boots are a great bargain, especially with a choice of Horween leathers and alternative soles available at little extra cost. There should be even more choices when the new website launches.
Hi Simon – what is the difference between a switch down and a Goodyear construction?
With a stitch down, the upper of the shoe is folded down around the edge, so it is the layer you can see sewn to the sole. And there is no welt on top of it or running into the inside of the shoe.
What, if any, is the functional implication of this?
It is generally more waterproof, as there isn’t a welt running from the edge of the sole underneath the upper, which can allow water to seep in
I think Viberg is an amazing company. The American shop Division Road (Seattle) does great collaborations with them.
Hi Simon,
Lovely article and very informative. I could well be in the market for a pair like these. May I kindly ask a few questions?
I am wondering as to how the size fits? I usually take 8.5 UK size in shoes which I think is the same as you, so I would think a 9 would be apt in a standard E width?
Secondly, may I ask if the inner layer of the boot is removable as I usually wear orthotics for fallen arches?
Finally, is there a particular cream recommended for the boot or would a normal brown saphir cream be sufficient?
Thanks as ever,
Joe.
Hey Joe,
Sorry, just answered the comment below on this one. You’re right, good analysis. I took a 9 and it sounds like that might be best for you too.
The insole is most likely removable, but I haven’t tried it myself and won’t for fear of damaging anything. I suggest you ask Viberg.
As to treatment, it depends on the leather. See the Viberg page here on care for the different types. With Chromexcel, I find brushing is usually fine, then the very occasional use of conditioner. Really the issue with waxed leather like this is just keeping the dirt out of the wax.
Did you take your usual UK size?
Good question – a half size down actually, which was perfect. I’m normally an 8.5, here I took a US 9 (English 8)
I guess the key fitting point is that width is less likely to be an issue with work boots generally, particularly through the front part of the foot.
I’ve worn whites and red wing and wouldn’t swap my cordovan wolverines (limited edition) for either. But each to their own.
Very helpful article as usual.
Sorry for going off topic – I think you’ve said you have a review of higher-rise chinos/trousers such as those of Rubato and Casatlantic in the works – any idea when you might you might post it? Only ask because I’d like to order from them but keen to hear your opinion (not to be impatient)!
No worries John.
The Rubato one is coming on Friday. The Casatlantic should be a week to 10 days later.
Nice boots, but I have to say this feels like a bit of excessive consumerism. If the Wolverines were still perfectly functional, why replace them? They are a work boot after all, and looking beat up is part of the charm.
They’re not perfectly functional Magnus – the upper is not in great shape, as alluded to in the piece, and actually cracking.
Ah, fair enough then. My reading comprehension is not the best today, sorry 🙂
Simon, these are handsome boots. May I ask what makes them suitable for inclement weather – presumably they are rubber soles but is there anything else to protect the shoe from rain and mud, etc?
These look sleeker than country boots like those from Tricker’s. Would they be suitable for a relatively casual office (when commuting in bad weather)?
Yes, a rubber sole with a tread, a thicker midsole that raises the boots a little more, and a stitchdown construction that means there isn’t a welt for the water to seep in through. The tongue is also attached higher up, so there is no gap there under the laces.
More importantly though, Chromexcel leather is very waxy, which means water runs off it. That was my experience with the Wolverines as well.
In terms of shape, in some ways they’re slicker than Tricker’s in that they don’t have all the broguing etc. But it’s a fairly wide toe, and I don’t think it’s really for an office, no – unless it’s the kind of place where people wear jeans, overshirts and Red Wings anyway
These actually look quite attractive for work boots. Looks like a happy marriage of function and appearance.
My job as a Corrections Officer requires work boots that can shine at a high gloss. They however, can not have a steel toe or shank. I tried multiple ” combat” style boots and found that my feet ached nonstop after 12-16 hours in them. I started looking for a zero drop moccasin style boot that would still have an appropriate sole. I settled with timberlands black suede lace up boots. They are thin, lightweight waterproof and I was able to wax dip the suede and make them polish up. At the end of 12-16 hours my feet still look like feet and not like an alien experiment. I wish there more zero drop flex sole options out there.
A good topic.
In the last year or so, I had really good luck in finding two pairs of brand new work boots, with tags and labels, from thrift shops in my area. One pair was Timberland, the other Red Wing, and their normal cost would be in the $200-$400 range here in the US. I paid $20 for each pair! The Red Wing is a dark reddish brown, and quite lovely. The Timberland is brown suede. Both pairs are made in the US, and their construction is solid and they have steel toes.
Granted these are made expressly for people doing construction and/or shop work, but they are great to use as winter boots, or for hiking, and I have used them in this fashion for a year now. I rarely wear boots or even shoes in the summer, just Birkenstock sandals, so these boots are primarily for the cooler seasons.
I’m surprised you haven’t mentioned Cheaneys. A British company, beautiful work boots. Also a choice of soles. Had a shearling lined pair for years now and they’re unbelievably tough but incredibly warm and comfortable. I’m not an employee or shareholder of theirs btw!
Hi Dom,
I’d put them in the same category as other Northampton workers mentioned I think. They’re not really work boots in the same way. Let me know if you think I’ve missed a model though
I would consider Cheaney’s Pennine and Tricker’s Grassmere boots (both with veldtschoen construction) to be as strong as your Vibergs. Their commando soles are superior, in my. experience, to Dainite soles which can be a bit slippy. For work boots, I’d choose a bespoke option from William Lennon which are less than half the price of those brands.
Hi, how does these compare to the Alden jumper boots? Pros cons or just different categories of shoes?
It’s the differences I mention in the piece really David. The jumper boots aren’t work boots in the same way and don’t have any of those characteristics: wider toe, more spring, bigger midsole etc.
A jumper boot, particularly without a storm welt, can look fine with a pair of flannels on a wet day. These would not
Do you think smartly dressed men look better with a shaved face or a beard Simon? Many men today are sporting whiskers of some kind; it seems, however, a shame to go through life hiding one’s face!
I don’t think it’s possible to generalise really, Mitchell. Beards suit some people more than others. I look much better with a beard than without, for example, and I don’t think any less smart.
How do you see them compared the C&J boots?
Well, from a style point of view I’ve covered this in the article above – C&J boots come under the general heading of Northampton makers, who don’t really make work boots for actual industrial labour. So the style is very different. The quality isn’t that far off, but it’s hard to compare when the actual make-up is so different
I know it’s more of a country style, but I really like the Henry by Tricker’s. Very comfortable, works well with chinos, and as a slip-on boot it’s basically impenetrable.
+ 1 for Indy boot by Alden!
Interesting post. It just reminded me that when you introduced the wax walker I was surprised by your choice of footwear: you were wearing some EG boots for a country walk. In your opinion, are those EG or these Viberg boots more confortable for long walks than technical hiking footwear? I would have never considered not using something that feels a bit more like trainers.
For really long walks, or proper hiking, technical footwear will always be better.
But that walk in Ireland with the EG boots was not that, and they were fine. These Viberg ones would also have been, with the difference that I would also happily have splashed through a stream, climbed on rocks etc
Very interesting lacing technique, Simon! First time I see something like this (at the top of the boots). Do you feel that this truly stabilises he boot or is it just a thing of stylish matter?
You mean winding the laces around the ankle of the boot? No, I don’t think it has any functional advantage. The laces are just a bit long
Nice shoes. Is it just me or are they ”smarter” than the Iron Rangers from Redwings? Can it be the lack of a cap toe that gives that impression? I really like my Iron Rangers and hope that they will work for 10-15 more years. But maybe I should upgrade ro Vibrams after that.
I think they are probably smarter, yes. The cap toe makes some difference, but also fewer lines of stitching and generally a finer make
Simon, would you consider the EG Galway a work boot?
No. It’s a great boot, but it’s not designed, either in terms of shape of make up, for industrial work.
As mentioned above and in the article, I wouldn’t put any Northampton makers in this category!
Hi Simon,
Would always be interested to know about quality brands for active/gym wear as I become sick on the same Nike and Adidas that appear to be the limited options in that “genre”
Thanks
Just as an anecdote, I’ve been wearing Red Wings for years and am quite happy with them. Still look great after tough treatment in the snow and mud. They are based near my childhood home, so I’m probably a bit biased.
So glad to see Viberg on the blog! They’re made in my hometown and I’ve wanted a pair for a few years; I almost got some in C.F. Stead kudu right before Covid, but I just wasn’t 100% sure it was the right colour and it was a large purchase. The company can be strange and sporadic in some of its ideas and creations but I’m glad they’ve kept their classics as it seems they really got it right with the 2030.
Their Chelsea (2050) is a little chunkier than Northampton versions from what I’ve seen, but out here people love their Blundstones and Doc Martens for the rain, so both of those lasts work really well too. Nice to see they hold up in the UK.
Yes, the 2050 is chunkier and I think is more comparable to a DM, a Gardener boot from RM Williams etc
Would you ever consider a bespoke workboot from someone like Felix, who was present in your bespoke shoemaking roundtable at carreducker?
Potentially, yes, though I would probably have to really love the style and not be able to find it RTW at all.
Really enjoy diving into websites of craftsmen like Viberg and reading the About page to get a feel for the history of these brands especially 3rd generation. Imagine my surprise to see Viberg started in Saskatchewan (a province in Canada). I live in Manitoba, the province next door so I have some understanding of its roots and the challenges it must have faced. Kudos to the family for adapting over the generations and making it to Permanent Style.
Pleased you found it interesting Neil. I will do another piece later about Viberg, their history and how they’re adapting and changing at the moment. It is a nice change from being so Europe-focused. A very different tradition
Have you ever considered buying John Lofgren boots? I’ve heard they’re amazing quality. I love their service boots
I haven’t actually looked into them Khen, thanks for the tip
Another vote of confidence in John Lofgren here. His M-43 boots are best in class and look great after a few years of wear. He is arguably the best maker of “work” boots short of going bespoke/hand lasted.
Simon
Great review and have peaked my interest. What of their weight? Do they feel heavy? How do they compare to the wolverines in weight?
Andrew
Yes, they certainly feel heavy, and are heavier than the Wolverines too.
I’d say they feel heavier than pretty much any dress boot, but similar to something like a cordovan Alden boot with a similar sole
Ha…looking at the toe of the 310 boot made me laugh!! Small things; nice colour though.
Do you think you will be able to do a popup this year?
I really hope so Stuart. It really depends on travel opening up again though. Fingers crossed for September
This is for N. Allison Williams: Russell Moccasin in the US make zero-drop moccasin boots to order. They use the “Munson” last which has a wider toe box and is supposedly very comfortable. The company seems to be highly regarded as a maker of hunting boots.
Lovely boots, but for me they are for a rugged look in an urban environment, not. Ttramping through mud and the like. I have some lovely EG Galways, and am amused to see them recommended as a shooting boot. A day on the moors and bogs up here and they would be trashed!
Thanks.
Why wouldn’t you use boots like this for tramping through mud? I can see the Galways, certainly, but these Vibergs are tough, waxed, and on a much heavier sole. Where would they be lacking?
I suggest you come up here and try them, you need a high rand, bellows tongue, hydrobloc leather and probably gore tex. Believe me I’ve tried it.
Done!
I have done a lot of walking through wet and mud with my Wolverines, and the wax leather does well in keeping out the wet. Also, note the Vibergs do have a bellows tongue – it’s not quite as high as some boots would be, but it’s still pretty effective.
Excellent choice! Simon, I’m a bit surprised that a Viberg seems so foreign to many of the readers within the comment section. These are as classic as it gets and an excellent representation of work wear as a crossover piece. I find brands like Viberg and Alden can be worn more often now that a more casual and maybe more diverse wardrobe is necessary to not look over dressed. While I enjoy tailoring this adjustment has been refreshing and really tested my style. Thanks for sharing this option.
These look great. Myself I have a pair of William Lennon boots with a toe cap and row of punching, in CXL colour 8. These are not slim or sleek but absolutely bulletproof, made with brass thread construction, definitely proper work boots in the traditional sense, I do regret the punched cap a bit but they get plenty of wear regardless. I’d reccomend them if you like the more round look.
Cheers Josh
I see I’m not the only one but I am a bit confused by the principle difference between “boots that originated as equipment for proper heavy-duty work, and from companies that largely still make that kind of footwear” and boots from Northhampton makers that are perhaps better known for dress shoes (but have also made heavy duty functional footwear for decades). I would have thought that quality, make, style and being fit for purpose are the only relevant characteristics for work boots reviewed on this website. Also, the “proper heavy duty work boots” used in modern day factories, shipyards and construction sites do not resemble these Vibergs in the slightest. They are more likely to look like this: https://www.blaklader.uk/en/products/footwear?sortorder=5&page=1
Finally, you don’t work in a factory but just want functional heavy duty outdoor boots. All the Northhampton makers have those on offer. Sorry for being a bit repetitive / pedantic perhaps but what is the point of that distinction? Many thanks as always!
Hi Jan,
I understand your point, but I describe in the article all the ways in which they are different. Look at my description of shape, of toe, of mid-sole, insole etc etc. They are different in both style and make.
And while Northampton makers used to make some boots like this, they haven’t for a long time. There are no real similarities.
Whereas there are between these work boots and actual functional ones. Again, all the points listed above. And, have a look at not just Viberg but all the companies I mention, and compare their working lines with their heritage ones.
S
Fair enough, thank you for explaining (again). With proper snow boots, Northhampton work boots, wellies, flip flops and sneakers in the closet (and being completely useless at any type of construction work) I guess I will not ever need to venture into this area myself
I’m inclined to agree that few people working on a construction site would be likely to wear these boots. Perhaps it is a question of semantics or maybe a clearer defininition of the working environment they would be expected to be used in.
They seem to have a Danite-style sole and I can’t help thinking they would benefit from one that is more deeply treaded if they are to be used in more rugged situations.
To be clear Ian, I’m not suggesting they would. Just that other boots the company makes and other companies I’ve mentioned make, are used in this manner. And they have a lot in common with these boots – the points on shape and make mentioned – making them better suited to the kind of rough walking, camping us non-workers might do.
Josh, what do you regret about the punched cap? The look or is it letting water in?
An incredibly belated reply here, apologies. Its the look, though I’ve got used to it now, I do think I’d go back if I could, it just makes the boots rather busy, I’d have a plain cap though, the extra layer of thick CXL is a nice thing to have.
What do you think about these boots sold by Purdey (made by C&J): https://www.purdey.com/mens-twin-strap-boots-ridgeway-sole – would that work as a casual boots mostly in the city?
Or would you have any other recommendation that goes more in the direction of (post WW2) combat boots? Basically I am looking for something slightly more modern and rugged than EG Galways, but sleeker than work or country boots…
Regarding the Vibergs, could the midsole be painted darker or wouldn’t the sole leather take the paint? I never liked the look of soles that are lighter than the rest of the shoe.
I haven’t tried the Purdey, but that looks like a fairly regular Northampton shape and make, just with the extra height. You could probably find a more modern version of C&J and Galway boots by ordering a pair with a different leather and sole construction. EG in particular has lots of textured and waxed options there now.
I’m not sure about painting the midsoles to be honest. I’d have to ask a patina artist or someone that had tried that before.
Hi Simon – is there a Northampton maker with a model you would say is most comparable for comfort and function tramping around the country (noting of course the style will be different)?
I would have thought there’d be at least a few, given the way all the component parts of British shooting outfits have made their way in into casual wear.
The boots from Tricker’s are probably the ones I like most in that area, just keep in mind the difference is not just in style, because they don’t have the same thickness of sole/mid-sole/insole, or construction, or room in the toe etc. Still great boots for country walks though
Thank you Simon for a crisp write up on Work Boot. I personally own a Red Wing Iron Rangers 8085 in CR&T leather. I’m very pleased with my boots as I tend to gravitate more towards Workwear. It’s actually a personal preference with the kind of overall look one wants to achieve and how one tends to gravitate more towards a specific boot type, make and the overall construction (especially the type of leather uppers used) as that draws most instinctively to a specific boot and manufacturer as compared to others you mentioned. Personal instincts are so crucial, especially when you’re buying online and one should go with his instincts.
Hi Simon,
Great article as always.
I have a pair of Tricker’s logger boots on a Dainite sole and can highly recommend them. I have walked many a mile in them and they have been resoled once, and have had them for 15 years.
Best,
Andrew
French brands like Paraboot or Heschung are good too in this category of boot.
I wouldn’t categorise either as work boot companies. They’re much more similar to the Northampton makers in style and make
Hi Simon,
Have you tried the Avoriaz hiking boot by Paraboot?
Best,
Andrew
Yes I’ve tried it a few times. It is nice, but I don’t really feel a need for it, as I’m doing actual hiking and the style seems a little out of place anywhere else.
Hi Simon,
I was wondering if you had looked at Role Club boots. MTM only by Brian Truong in Los Angeles. They are probably a little more workwear-y than the Vibergs but the customer can dictate a lot, in terms of style, leather, colours, toe box, heel, finish, etc. His “default” boots are a joy. I have a pair of Role Club Engineer boots, for motorcycling, and a pair of Underdogs, for everyday. Fit, finish, style and build quality in both are fabulous.
Worth a look when the Vibergs expire?…
Well that might be a long time from now!
But thanks for the recommendation. I didn’t look at them but I will
Brian’s lead time is currently 2 or 3 years, I think—not that the Vibergs will need replacement so soon, but not something you can just get on a whim, either.
Thank you
Hi Ben, I ordered a pair three years ago and another two years ago. In both cases, the lead time was 8-9 months. Each pair is hand-made by Brian, and he is a one-man band. Hence the timing. And the lead time may have increased since I last bought. Anyway, you’re right – not available at a moment’s notice.
Simon one aspect you didn’t cover is the break-in. On boots like these that can weigh nearly two pounds each, with a steel shank and thick, hard-wearing leather like CXL and a thick heel counter, it may be *months* before they fully mold to your foot. But when they do it’ll almost feel like a pair of boots made for your foot. This is part of the beauty of the quality level of a maker like Viberg.
Good point. Though actually, I’ve found my boots haven’t needed that much break in. Maybe because there’s plenty of room, no rubbing, and because Viberg now use a wooden shank on most of their boots.
I didn’t really understand what chromexcel leather was, Simon. I found on the Cheaney site a fascinating description here:
https://www.cheaney.co.uk/blog/what-is-chromexcel-leather
that I’m sure readers will enjoy.
Thank you
Another massive plug for Role Club and Brian Truong. I have several pairs of boots from him, each aspect of them unique to my specifications, with an incredible fit and finish. He is also very open to working with you on different styles or inspirations to develop something truly tailored to your requirements. He is a joy to collaborate with and his backstory is truly inspiring.
Regarding John Lofgren, I have a pair of his Engineers and they are great boots, however Brian’s work is far better IMO. Unfortunately John has a sad history of expressing rather xenophobic and racist views in public forums, causing a backlash from both customers and retailers of his products. I myself chose to no longer purchase any of his wares.
Dear Simon, wonderful if you will cover more of worker boots and styles to go with them.
I would like also to read more on different design elements since thee are many boot styles and they get mingled.
To me it is the silhouette (?) seen in profile that most separate the traditional American worker boot style from the Northampton tradition. Could you reflect on that?? UK makers generally dont make that kind of forward leaning style I think. Cheaney’s Jarrow boot is the closest I have seen.
I’m not sure I’ll do that much on them, to be honest Simon, because it’s not really a core area of coverage for us.
But when I do some more, yes I can look at those points. Perhaps shots of boots side by side. There is difference in both the boot in profile (eg the height of the toe box) and from the top (its width)
Hi again,
I see, myself I like to see cross overs.
Shots of boots side by side sounds clever.
” There is difference in both the boot in profile (eg the height of the toe box)”, yes and also the heel-line i think. Compare for example Tricker’s Stowe with a typical worker boot. Different feeling.
Perhaps you want to recommend some sites more focused on boot and worker wear?
Cheers
Sure – try the US site Stitchdown. They do a good podcast too
The overall style of this boot reminds me of the Justin lace-up ropers I used to wear (in many different colors) during the 80s & 90s. At maybe 1/10 the price, the Justins wouldn’t compare in quality at all. But every time I see this style it reminds me of my childhood. Nostalgia coupled with the craftsmanship of Viberg keep these on my “would be nice to have, but don’t need” wishlist.
Hi Simon,
What would you use to renew the leather on a pair of work boots?
I have a pair of Gorilla USA (made in Allegheny Pennsylvania) work boots in ‘raisin’ coloured leather – the leather is oily, soft and tough. The boots were bought to deal with the dangers of walking the streets of NYC one, brutally, cold winter more than a decade ago. They came back to the UK with me where they have stood up to the conditions (and my neglect) admirably. But the leather is now in need of a bit of TLC and I’d appreciate any advice you might have.
Thanks,
H
It depends a lot on the leather – have a look at the Viberg website for their advice on the different leathers they offer. Also worth asking Gorilla
I think of Nick’s, White’s and Viberg, Viberg actually does by far the least *actual* work book manufacture now—Brett’s mentioned in interviews that the majority of their income is made on non-work lines (such as the service boot). Whereas I believe both Nick’s and White’s, and probably more Nick’s than White’s, still predominantly make boots you might plausibly go out and do logging or firefighting or metalwork, etc., in. Another factor, I think, in the price difference: just a different customer.
Thanks Ben, yes you’re probably right. Still, not like some companies that don’t make anything used in those functions any more
Great article, Simon – Thank you. I have a pair of 6/7 year old Thursday Boots which are also becoming worn at the upper. These Vibergs look like an ideal replacement.
Your camping photo is very interesting. Dressing for camping/hiking and other outdoor activities always seems challenging without resorting to brightly coloured technical fabrics. Do you combine or layer technical outerwear with outfits like the one shown? Is there other high-quality camping/hiking gear that you recommend?
The only technical thing I really wear is a waterproof, and even then only when doing proper camping, where you may be out in the rain a lot, and not find it easy to dry things inside a tent.
Apart from that it’s all workwear staples – things like sweatshirts, canvas chinos and boots that all look better not worse for being worn in. Perhaps a nice merino base layer as I’ve covered before from Stevenson as well
Simon,
Were your Wolverines a color 8? If so, and the Vibergs are a dark brown, was the color change for wardrobe functionality purposes or simply selection?
In short, do you see dark brown boots as more versatile than a color 8 or vice versa?
To be honest I’m not sure on the Wolverines, as it has been a while, but both those and the Vibergs are a similar colour, close to Colour 8 if not exactly that. They are not dark brown.
Dark brown is always going to be a little more versatile than color 8. If you were only going to get one pair of boots, I’d say they should be dark brown. But colour 8 gets surprisingly close, given how unusual a colour it is.
Looking to replace my insufficient pair of Indy’s, lovely fit but they’re cracking, with something to play with the kids in the mud with, and am contemplating between a pair of Alden cordovan boots and a pair from Viberg. Any thoughts of usefulness?
I think if that’s the intended use, either would be great, the difference would mostly be about style – whether you like something a little smarter or a little chunkier
What’s your thoughts on John Lofgren Bootmaker from Japan. Also can the Chromexcel Horween Leather boots be paired with canvas and denim as they’re heavily oiled boots?
See comments on John Lofgren above, Amit.
Yes, I find chromexcel is fine with canvas and denim.
I’m curious since you mentioned camping, hiking, and outdoor activities how you go about deciding what best to wear (perhaps not worth a blog post).
I suppose athletic wear would do well for camping and hiking (my preference here being Tracksmith), and trail runners probably work too (and would double up as running shoes for my morning runs). However, with more workwear clothing it feels odd to wear trail runners or more technical (synthetic) hiking boots.
Would something like C&J Conistons also work for camping, assuming one will only be hiking on relatively level and well worn paths for 12 mile distances (max), perhaps in mild rain?
Or is this where something like a Viberg, Whites, or Nicks boot would do better?
Have you seen the image in the post above Alexander? That’s what I wear.
Basically workwear chinos, T-shirts and shirts, hoodies and sweatshirts, gilets and waterproofs, and boots like Alden or Viberg.
I wouldn’t wear athletic wear and I’d only switch to more technical things like trail runners if I were doing more serious walking or hiking.
I did see the picture and suppose my question may have come out a bit silly, sorry. I suppose what I should have asked is, what is the cutoff that distinguishes a relaxing walk or hike from a “serious” one – what sort of distance or terrain (or combination thereof)?
Full disclosure despite living in California, I’ve never been camping. I’m a city boy originally from an immigrant family – my father once said of camping – “why would you do that, I could send you back to my home country if you want to sleep in the dirt?” I have since learned that a variation of this line has been used by many Latin American parents on their US born children. I’ve been exploring the idea lately though (my fiancee likes camping and so do many of my friends), and much of the advice that I get is have light moisture wicking clothes – hence athletic wear.
Seems to me like outfits like what you describe probably work, but just looking for more perspective on what you see as the cutoff between “serious” walks and hikes and more leisurely walks and hikes. Also just wondering if something like C&J Conistons might work given the rough out suede and storm welt (likely will buy them anyway, but even better if I could use them for non-serious outdoor activities. Thanks for the great articles regardless.
No worries. I guess it’s hard to be precise on the cut-off as regards a walk/hike, because it depends on length, terrain, and exertion/speed. But perhaps a rule of thumb is whether you’re just on holiday, and go for a walk, or whether you’re going on a walking/hiking holiday? That works for me anyway.
As regards camping, yes absolutely more technical clothing is very practical, and I will always take a rainproof shell – not because you need to be that much more waterproof necessarily, but because if you’re in a tent, you don’t have the space or dryness to dry something out sufficiently.
I use the same logic when it comes to technical clothing in tops or bottoms too. If I’m going to be in a tent for a week or more, and if it’s going to be wet, I’m more likely to wear technical things.
Hi Simon,
What do you think of kudu leather as a material for casual, rugged, long lasting boots? Is it likely to age well?
I’m looking for a pair of boots to wear through mud, snow, heavy rain and the like. For dog walks, playing with the kids and longer walks sometimes.
Also, what about the colour? Dark brown or a mid brown? I’d pair them with dark jeans, light olive chinos and light beige chinos.
Thanks.
It’s hard to say David, as I’ve never used it for that. Probably best to ask the maker.
But I’d go with dark brown. Pretty much always going to be more versatile
Hi Simon,
Would love your thoughts on the category of boots that’s a tiny bit more refined than these work boots, but still casual. Something that goes with denim and smarter chinos perhaps, but won’t break the bank so can be worn in mud and rain!
I was thinking the Alden jumper, but the cost is prohibitive! What do you think of the Cheaney Jarrow in chromexcel?
I don’t really have many boots in that price range, so hard to comment there, but I think you’re on the right lines in terms of the style.
Hi Simon, is the Joe McCoy chinos from The Real McCoys beige or olive? I can say it by just watching the picture 🙂
Would be nice to see a post about them 🙂
Kind regards Martin
There is a full article on them Martin – have a search.
You should reconsider your review of Viberg. I live where they are made and have bought them for over 30 years.
They have become a boutique shop.
What they offer now is no better than the Chinese made doc Martens.
My current set of $550 boots lasted 3 years. My previous set lasted 7 years and went through two resoles.
I’m older.. I don’t work them as hard.
My home boots were viberg stompers. My previous set lasted 10 years. My current set lasted 6 months before I had a hole through to the steel toe.
Their cheaper boots are made in China now.
I called and asked them about repairs. They don’t do repairs anymore. They recommended a shop quite far away.
I’m local within 10 miles of their main store.
That’s insulting.
Their customer service by phone was terrible. The person on the phone was insulting and condescending.
Hi John,
Sorry to hear that. Is there anything specific in the way the boots are made that you know is different?
Also surprised to hear on repairs – they seemed happy to offer that when I asked.
Hey Simon,
Going to contrast John’s experience above, which is a shame to hear but my experience will hopefully bring some balance to the discussion.
Sometime around the end of summer this year, I purchased my first pair of Vibergs, having read this very article over a year prior (a working example of PS informing and aiding reader’s purchases). I bought a pair of black CXL service boots. Quite an investment for my budget but having worn them pretty much every other day since buying them, 100% worth every penny.
Upon reflection, brown would have been the wiser first choice, although the black has proven surprisingly versatile, partly thanks to my cold colour wardrobe I’ll admit, plus I already have brown boots from Alden etc. The thick chromexcel leather is exactly what I was looking for, something I love about Viberg, their focus is mainly on thick full grain leathers. I love their construction and everything about them.
For me, Viberg, along with many of the Alden models, sit in that sweet spot just separate from the Northampton makers (C&J, Edward Green etc.) which can be worn with that slightly more casual side of things (nice sweatshirts etc.) but also with a nice knit, nice jeans and a leather jacket or overcoat. As I try and build a long-term focused, economically minded wardrobe, I can see Viberg playing a large part in that, in this more ‘casual but want to remain professional’ lifestyle many of us find ourselves in. Already got my eye on a second pair from Rivet and Hide (brown this time).
Would you consider the „Gebirgsjäger“ by Ludwig Reiter serving a similar purpose?
Well, that’s a hiking boot style and looks a little more luxe – not sure I’d be wanting to scuff that up so much. But if not used for such rough activity, yes it would be good
Simon, hi over time has leather “given” on your boots, especially on the top, mine just arrived the fit is good just a little tight.
Thank you.
Cliff
No, not really Cliff. But then again, mine is not tight so if it was I guess it might expand slightly with wear
Is anyone able give advice about this shape of boot as in what I should Google to find like Derby, Oxford etc?
Many thanks,
Joel
That’s a very heavy work boot Joel – I’d start with that term and get into the world of them!
Thank you very much
Interesting article, and I really like the look of the boot. However, I am not sure – unless you need such boots for work – when to use them. In the woods or in the Alps, real hiking boots or hiking/trail shoes including a Goretex layer will always be better, and there are some rather stylish example (see e.g. the Italian company Scarpa with a nubuck layer on the outside).
For the city, I think Italian or Northampton makers have more appeal. This leaves the field a bit narrowed to inner-city bobos who want to show that they are more rebellious than the oxford, derbies, chukka or sneaker-wearers.
I’m sure a RMW wearer can say more, but I think there’s a few places in between for those that don’t live in the city. These are not technical sportswear, but if you’re walking in the countryside or indeed in the bush, they’re the kind of practicality you would need
So, for example, would you wear the Vibergs when walking your dog for 1-2 hours on wooden trails….. even when it is muddy (considering their price)?
Absolutely. They’re work boots, they’re meant to be beaten up, just like denim or workwear chinos and so on. Hard-wearing things can be expensive too
Simon,
Sorry to bother you again. Are the Viberg boots you picture chunkier than the 1000 mile boots of Wolverine?
Kr Markus
No, I’d say they’re pretty similar. Perhaps a tiny bit slimmer, for example around the welt
Hi Simon,
I’m looking for an alternative to trainers that I normally wear with my jeans most of the time and recently went into Rivet & Hide to check out the Viberg’s.
I’m curious to know your choice of CXL over waxed calf leather? I’m a little confused over the which way to swing. The colour of the 2030 Tobacco Pheonix is my preference over the colours available in CXL. Would really appreciate your thoughts following your boot selection.
Also, maybe a little bit of silly question but what socks do you tend to wear with the Viberg’s? I just incidentally happen to be wearing thick walking socks (Bridgedale mid-weight) and unlike you, needed to size up by 0.5 a size.
I must put in shout for the chap at R&H – excellent customer service!
Both the waxed and the CXL are great and age well, I wouldn’t worry too much about the difference – CXL just tends to show the ageing more and gets more varied, but waxed calf is great too with a slightly different texture
I wear fairly normal socks most of the time, occasionally a chunky one but not as thick as walking socks
Thanks Simon,
Really appreciate the advice.
Just one more question on this topic, if I may. I’m guessing that both would hold up quite well in the rain?
Yes
Simon, just wondering if you could elaborate on why you picked the Viberg Service Boot over the Alden Indy? I understand the general point you make about the differences between Viberg and Alden as makers, but just wondering about the comparison between those two models of boot specifically.
I think it’s mostly that difference between the companies, and then a style one – the Service Boot feels like a work boot, rougher, made for punishment, and will get better with that. The Indy is great but is really more of a city boot, not designed for the same kind of use (which then comes across in the style)
Angus. I have both so feel I can comment. The Service Boot is in brown leather whilst the Indy is in burgundy cordovan. I agree with Simon’s analysis and actually wear them that way myself – the Service Boot is definitely just for the weekend. My other thoughts are that I wear the Indy much more as the colour goes with a greater range of trousers. It is the Trubalance last though and I find it too roomy as it is very wide in the toes and not particularly elegant. I wish I had gone for one of the narrower last models which were available at Drakes. Conversely I find the Service Boot really pinches my little toes.
Hi Simon. Now that you’ve had these a few years, I wonder if you’ve had them resoled yet, and if so how easy was that?
I understand that resoling stitch-down boots is a bit more difficult than with Goodyears. And sending the boots back to Canada to a Viberg repair centre would presumably be a pain.
Sorry if someone else has already asked this above (if so, I failed to spot it).
Many thanks!
I don’t think they have Tom, but no I haven’t had them resoled yet I’m afraid
quick question re care: What is the leather cream/polish you use for the Viberg? And do you use shoe-trees as well? many thanks!
Just a regular cream, I think it’s Saphir. And yes I use shoe trees, though often only the day or two after they’ve been worn (I don’t have quite enough for every shoe!)
interesting! I thought this somewhat thicker leather would need a different cream…
Thank you!
Hi Simon, I was wondering how you have found these boots fair up on longer walks? When a boot is described as ‘work boots’, using them as walking shoes doesn’t come to mind. But it seems from the piece that you do use them for walking. I have a pair of EG Cranleighs and am interested in a tougher walking shoe, without going for a full technical hiking boot.
Incidentally, I use to work in a glass factory in the US and we had to wear serious work boots there – in some cases wading through shattered window glass. They got some beautiful signs of wear (and glass scratches) but they are far too heavy duty for general wear. They were even too heavy to drive an automatic car in.
Thanks!
They sound great John!
On walking in these, it depends on the kind of work. A ramble for an hour or two through the countryside to a pub would be fine. But serious hiking for longer, or over terrain, or in inclement weather, would require something more technical
Thanks Simon, appreciate your insight on this. Sounds like a decent compromise between Edward Green/Alden boots and a full on hiking boot.
Just one other question – did they take longer to break in, given the tougher construction?
No they didn’t, they were pretty good from the start
Hi Simon,
On the topic of boots – i have just purchased a pair of Morjas boots similar in style to EG Galway but they are ever so slightly too tight around the toe box when wearing normal socks but they are ok with thinner dress style socks – my issue with sizing up is similar to yours in that my lower foot and ankle are very narrow in comparison to front and toes, and my toes are deep so insoles always create a height issue. Will suede boots like this stretch out a little in time? Do you wear thicker socks with the EG or just thin? It’s very difficult to get a size that accommodates all scenarios but I feel these boots are more dressy than casual so they lean towards the dressy socks.
Many thanks
Suede stretches a little, but won’t stretch in the toe box at all because of the internal structure in there. Personally I think the shoe should fit normal socks, though not really thick ones, as otherwise just dress socks is too limiting
hey simon,
i was wondering how you found the comfort and durability of viberg’s service boots 2.5 years on from the original article.
they’re something i’ve come across recently and was weighing up whether or not to give them a try. i know they’re heavy and stiff and would likely take some time to break in, but wondered how you found that process and how they’re going a little further down the track.
cheers,
tim.
To be honest Tim I didn’t find this pair hard to break in at all. They are a little heavy, but the leather is supple even though it’s thick. I would say they took a lot less breaking in than most English calf shoes
Great to know Simon. Many thanks. Heading your way in May having not visited London since 2019 and very much looking forward to it.
The foot has twenty six bones, a quarter of the body’s total. There are thirty three joints and more than one hundred muscles, ligaments and tendons. The literature on motorcycle protection is that after the helmet the most important item is the boots: you can’t put feet back together. By the age of fifty your feet have likely carried you around seventy five thousand miles.
I therefore guess the first priority for feet is getting shoes that provide the right environment for them.
Given that would it be reasonable to think that when assessing if a shoe ‘looks good’ that should be bound by whether it is a fit for purpose? I note in the piece above that this is very much implied. Reading your other articles I get the impression this is a general theme?
Another thing on the same idea. I note that Loro Piana, Kiton and other Italian shoe makers produce what they call hiking boots. However, from the descriptions it is very unclear whether these are boots actually meant for hiking or just exist for a take on the look? Notably the English don’t push that even though EG, CJ and others produce some quite tough boots.
No, those boots are not meant for actual hiking. It’s just the style.
Yes, certainly whether a shoe is fit for purpose is just as important as how it looks.
Hey Simon. Should you ever need to resole your 2030s, is there anywhere in particular you would send them?
I have a pair myself that have taken a beating the last few years and may need to start thinking of getting the heel / sole looked at before the autumn.
I could only see the Viberg site reference Canada and US but wondered if there is anyone in the UK you would recommend? Thanks, Neil
Good point, I don’t know actually Neil. I might go and ask Tom at the Valet perhaps in that kind of situation. But let me know what you find out!
Hi Simon,
I want something in the style of the Viberg 2030, however, I have commented previously that I struggle finding suitable footwear as a guy with small feet (usually a UK 4 in boots), and this is a similar story.
This has led me to the women’s sections of various bootmakers and the closest I have managed to find in terms of style are these Grant Stone boots:
https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/products/nora-boot-crimson-chromexcel?variant=39794974228566
It’s a bit stylistically different by virtue of being a women’s style, most notably the toe area is a lot flatter to the ground, which I don’t really mind. I just wanted your thoughts if you would say these are a suitable alternative and can fill the same role?
Lastly, I have also been considering made to order or bespoke due to my shoe size, so I was also wondering if you are aware of anywhere that offers those services for this style of boot?
I think that’s cool actually Andrew, and would work very well. A toe like that is not feminine necessarily, just a little smarter, and I like it.
I don’t know anyone that does that for this style of boot no, sorry