As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn’t covered...

This is the corduroy suit I featured the fitting of last October - at the E. Marinella store in London. Although labelled as Marinella, it was made by Nunzio Pirozzi - a Neapolitan tailor with a wonderful moustache and a sterling reputation in N...

Nothing is more satisfying than when long-grown projects come to fruition. Indeed, I'm not sure many media today could support a project that's taken this amount of work and time.  It began in 2016, with the idea of trying to commission a suit or ja...

These are shots from the inside of an old jacket made by the French bespoke tailor Henri Urban. A customer of Gianni at Sartoria Vergallo brought it in to show him and to see if he could copy the design, particularly the embroidered initials. I photo...

Some pictures here of the second fitting of a navy suit from Sartoria Vergallo, in a wool/cashmere mix. Feeling much better now – as they say, the first fitting is for the tailor and the second is for you.I can feel the shape of the jacket, which a...

As with our previous article in this series - on bags - five coats might seem like a lot, but actually chances are many readers already have that in their wardrobe, if they account for smart and casual coats, for warmth and for rain.  And given t...

A friend once told me that he gets a kick out of finding an unusual piece of menswear, and working out a way to wear it. Like a challenge: how can he make this esoteric bit of clothing wearable.  I’ve never really taken that approach to clothes. H...

There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and price.While in Italy a couple of...

I was more nervous than usual at this, our first Symposium in Japan. Partly I think it was because of the speakers: sitting alongside Kamoshita-san (above) is intimidating for anyone. But mostly it was cultural. I was very conscious of being the only...

In recent months I’ve been wearing belts more often, after years of hardly doing so at all.  I never wore them with tailoring, preferring the clean, elegant look of an unfettered waistband with side adjustors.  And I didn’t even wear them with ...

By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesson...

Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested in...

A particular linen developed by Solbiati has generated a fair bit of buzz in the last couple of years. Finished with a matte effect and washed to give it an unusually soft feel, ‘Art du Lin’ has become popular with a lot of people who don’t nat...

It’s been a while since we’ve included anyone in this series – which began with Bruce Boyer and Alan See – for which I apologise. The next to be included is George Wang, owner of the BRIO store in Beijing, China. George is a good friend ...

This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost).  It remains one of my absolute favou...

Five years ago, in 2018, we began the PS awards series by asking about favourite brands, shops and stylists.  This year I'd like to invite everyone to do the same, but actively reflect on how things have changed in the past five years.  Five years ...

This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review.  The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market.  And it was to check the q...

Esquire magazine in the US recently profiled me for a column - their 'five fits' feature.  It's run by Christopher Fenimore, who has been into menswear for about the same time as I have, although he was a little younger when he started. It was fun t...

Earlier this month I visited Seoul, to see some of the tailors I had been intrigued by but mostly seen from afar, and to visit some of the shops and brands. My impression was of a dynamic city – new development, new retail, every shop with a dis...

This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy.  However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...

Over the past few months, I’ve been enjoying wearing this vintage cartridge bag as an occasional day bag - for when I don’t need to carry a computer or other bulky things.  It started when a reader asked about a crossbody bag he could carry to w...

Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earlier i...

I know I spend too much time looking at clothes I want, and not enough at ways to wear the ones I have.  There are many reasons for this. There’s the familiar retail fix, the fact I wear a range of styles, the fact that I can afford them (and reme...

I thought it would be interesting to do a post on what clothing I packed for my recent Japan trip. People always seem to like these capsule pieces, although this trip was particularly challenging for a couple of reasons.  First, I needed a full rang...

“Oh, that is cosy.” “It's like being wrapped up in a big tweedy blanket.” “I could fall asleep in the corner like this.” I’ve never done a pop-up where I had the sample of a new release for people to try on, and could see their reaction...