The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on stage

Read MoreJul 31st 2023

By Tom Mastronardi. Anyone that knows me appreciates my resolute affection for being well-tailored. Even as a kid raised in a decidedly blue-collar neighbourhood on Chicago’s South Side, I never required any coaxing to don a jacket and tie. But of ...

The glow and romance of it: Douglas Fairbanks on stage

By Tom Mastronardi. Anyone that knows me appreciates my resolute affection for being well-tailored. Even as a kid raised in a decidedly blue-collar neighbourhood on Chicago’s South Side, I never required any coaxing to don a jacket and tie. But of ...

Jul 31st 2023

Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review

Read MoreMar 8th 2023

This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020.  It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...

Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review

This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020.  It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...

Mar 8th 2023

Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up

Read MoreOct 27th 2023

Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London.  There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the knitwe...

Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up

Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London.  There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the knitwe...

Oct 27th 2023

The case for the Summer Suit. With tie

Read MoreSep 6th 2021

Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen suits he loves so much. We dis...

The case for the Summer Suit. With tie

Thomas Mastronardi is one of the best-dressed men I know. So, in the spirit of welcoming a greater range of voices onto Permanent Style, I asked Tom to bookend the summer by writing something on the seersucker and linen suits he loves so much. We dis...

Sep 6th 2021

I have Gay Talese's hat

Read MoreMar 14th 2022

By Tom Mastronardi "The story I’m about to relate is true; it really happened, just a few short years ago, before Covid upended the simple everyday pleasure of running into someone you know on the street and having something marvellous happen. But ...

I have Gay Talese's hat

By Tom Mastronardi "The story I’m about to relate is true; it really happened, just a few short years ago, before Covid upended the simple everyday pleasure of running into someone you know on the street and having something marvellous happen. But ...

Mar 14th 2022

Paolo Martorano bespoke, New York

Read MoreJan 31st 2020

Most bespoke tailoring in New York is structured differently to the old houses of Europe. It tends to be based around a designer or salesman - with extensive bespoke experience - rather than a cutter.  There are exceptions of course, including Leona...

Paolo Martorano bespoke, New York

Most bespoke tailoring in New York is structured differently to the old houses of Europe. It tends to be based around a designer or salesman - with extensive bespoke experience - rather than a cutter.  There are exceptions of course, including Leona...

Jan 31st 2020

Tom Davies horn glasses

Read MoreMar 26th 2012

  It’s taken a while to get round to writing about my glasses from Tom Davies. Partially, that was because it took a while to have them made. I was a guinea big for the bespoke service for horn glasses, and as with any new service it took that bi...

Tom Davies horn glasses

  It’s taken a while to get round to writing about my glasses from Tom Davies. Partially, that was because it took a while to have them made. I was a guinea big for the bespoke service for horn glasses, and as with any new service it took that bi...

Mar 26th 2012

Bespoke glasses at TD Tom Davies

Read MoreOct 18th 2010

        It turns out my neighbour is friends with a guy called Tom Davies, who is the largest maker of bespoke glasses in the world. And Tom’s studio is half a mile from where I grew up (East Sheen, south-west London). So, interested in l...

Bespoke glasses at TD Tom Davies

        It turns out my neighbour is friends with a guy called Tom Davies, who is the largest maker of bespoke glasses in the world. And Tom’s studio is half a mile from where I grew up (East Sheen, south-west London). So, interested in l...

Oct 18th 2010

The very conservative Sir Tom Baker

Read MoreFeb 9th 2011

You’d be forgiven for thinking that Tom Baker makes rock ‘n’ roll suits. After all, that’s what he’s known for, that’s what he is pictured wearing and that’s what you see if you look through his window on D’Arblay Street, Soho. But ab...

The very conservative Sir Tom Baker

You’d be forgiven for thinking that Tom Baker makes rock ‘n’ roll suits. After all, that’s what he’s known for, that’s what he is pictured wearing and that’s what you see if you look through his window on D’Arblay Street, Soho. But ab...

Feb 9th 2011

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

Read MoreSep 8th 2017

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but cancelled at the last minute. It is reproduced here for Permanent Style readers - Perhaps it shouldn’t be surprising, given the vogue for everything ‘bespoke’ ...

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but cancelled at the last minute. It is reproduced here for Permanent Style readers - Perhaps it shouldn’t be surprising, given the vogue for everything ‘bespoke’ ...

Sep 8th 2017

The Alden modified last, and Anatomica sizing

Read MoreApr 1st 2022

Alden has this particular shape of shoe, on what is referred to as the ‘modified’ last.  It’s unusual, almost orthopaedic in appearance, with a narrow waist that hugs the middle of the foot and rather bulging sides to fully accommodate the joi...

The Alden modified last, and Anatomica sizing

Alden has this particular shape of shoe, on what is referred to as the ‘modified’ last.  It’s unusual, almost orthopaedic in appearance, with a narrow waist that hugs the middle of the foot and rather bulging sides to fully accommodate the joi...

Apr 1st 2022

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

Read MoreFeb 18th 2015

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and Steven Hitchcock

 My last 'reflections on bespoke' post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items selec...

Feb 18th 2015

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring Symposium

Read MoreAug 19th 2015

  Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was perhaps the m...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailoring Symposium

  Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was perhaps the m...

Aug 19th 2015

Expressing yourself: How to dress like Milad Abedi

Read MoreFeb 15th 2023

The photographer Milad Abedi is someone whose style I've liked for a long time, but in a quiet way. Whenever we’ve shot together I’ve been interested in what he’s wearing and found something I liked, but he wasn’t the first person I thought...

Expressing yourself: How to dress like Milad Abedi

The photographer Milad Abedi is someone whose style I've liked for a long time, but in a quiet way. Whenever we’ve shot together I’ve been interested in what he’s wearing and found something I liked, but he wasn’t the first person I thought...

Feb 15th 2023

The real innovation of Tom Ford

Read MoreJun 4th 2008

The greatest contribution Tom Ford’s new eponymous line has made to menswear is nothing to do with design – it is the creation of a compromise between bespoke and made to measure. Bespoke, as regular readers will recall, involves creating a suit ...

The real innovation of Tom Ford

The greatest contribution Tom Ford’s new eponymous line has made to menswear is nothing to do with design – it is the creation of a compromise between bespoke and made to measure. Bespoke, as regular readers will recall, involves creating a suit ...

Jun 4th 2008

The Valet: Becoming a one-stop shop for clothing care

Read MoreMar 18th 2024

The Valet has become an all-round care and repair location in the past couple of years, which is great for our general push to encourage readers to look after their clothes better. Having started with pressing, then adding dry cleaning and shoe care,...

The Valet: Becoming a one-stop shop for clothing care

The Valet has become an all-round care and repair location in the past couple of years, which is great for our general push to encourage readers to look after their clothes better. Having started with pressing, then adding dry cleaning and shoe care,...

Mar 18th 2024

Clothes for a wedding

Read MoreAug 29th 2014

  The simplicity of classic wedding attire - in colour, in pattern, in tone - is a reflection of respect  for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but while I can see the argument for relaxing c...

Clothes for a wedding

  The simplicity of classic wedding attire - in colour, in pattern, in tone - is a reflection of respect  for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but while I can see the argument for relaxing c...

Aug 29th 2014

A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question

Read MoreOct 3rd 2012

Dear Simon,??I hope that you don't mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I need to ask someone who knows about style, and you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable on the subject.??...

A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question

Dear Simon,??I hope that you don't mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I need to ask someone who knows about style, and you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable on the subject.??...

Oct 3rd 2012

How to buy fragrance - the perfumes

Read MoreAug 2nd 2013

Following the recent post on how to buy fragrance, this is the second installment – the brands I like and some suggestions of ones to look for. First, though, a reader asked about the difference between molecular and natural ingredients. Natural in...

How to buy fragrance - the perfumes

Following the recent post on how to buy fragrance, this is the second installment – the brands I like and some suggestions of ones to look for. First, though, a reader asked about the difference between molecular and natural ingredients. Natural in...

Aug 2nd 2013

Menswear: Vintage postcards from Tom Phillips

Read MoreSep 18th 2012

A beautiful Norfolk jacketWhen Tom Phillips, the author of Menswear: Vintage People on Photo Postcards, first put together this collection, he expected to see conformity across menswear in the roughly 40 pre-WW2 years it covered. What he got was a co...

Menswear: Vintage postcards from Tom Phillips

A beautiful Norfolk jacketWhen Tom Phillips, the author of Menswear: Vintage People on Photo Postcards, first put together this collection, he expected to see conformity across menswear in the roughly 40 pre-WW2 years it covered. What he got was a co...

Sep 18th 2012

If you only had five handkerchiefs - a capsule collection

Read MoreJan 7th 2016

   A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if you commute by bike (as I d...

If you only had five handkerchiefs - a capsule collection

   A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if you commute by bike (as I d...

Jan 7th 2016

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

Read MoreJul 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

Jul 11th 2013

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

Read MoreMar 11th 2024

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...

Mar 11th 2024

Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home

Read MoreJun 19th 2020

Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing.  Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, because it...

Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home

Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing.  Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, because it...

Jun 19th 2020

Beige, Paris: The best kind of multi-brand shop

Read MoreMay 6th 2024

A lot of music fans don’t see the point of covers albums. They want the originals, not a bunch of copies. But I’ve always liked them, whether it’s Johnny Cash’s American IV or Rage Against The Machine’s Renegades, because they’re original...

Beige, Paris: The best kind of multi-brand shop

A lot of music fans don’t see the point of covers albums. They want the originals, not a bunch of copies. But I’ve always liked them, whether it’s Johnny Cash’s American IV or Rage Against The Machine’s Renegades, because they’re original...

May 6th 2024