Superfines: The story of refining wool
Pop-up shop update: Sartoria Formosa are in the shop today, Friday and Saturday. Gennaro Formosa is on site, together with Gianluca Migliarotti - director of the 'O Mast' film among other things There was a time when having a ‘Super’ suit was...
Superfines: The story of refining wool
Pop-up shop update: Sartoria Formosa are in the shop today, Friday and Saturday. Gennaro Formosa is on site, together with Gianluca Migliarotti - director of the 'O Mast' film among other things There was a time when having a ‘Super’ suit was...
How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather
Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation set up by Jack Millington (b...
How leather is tanned: Billy Tannery goat leather
Although I’ve visited many workshops and factories over the years, I’ve never been to a tannery (a trip to Barker’s is way overdue). It was with particular interest, therefore, that I went to see the tiny operation set up by Jack Millington (b...
The guide to Superfine shirtings
There has been a lot of debate in recent years as to what should be called a Superfine cloth for suiting. As wools got finer and finer, and more and more expensive, it looked increasingly silly to focus on a single attribute like fineness, when ...
The guide to Superfine shirtings
There has been a lot of debate in recent years as to what should be called a Superfine cloth for suiting. As wools got finer and finer, and more and more expensive, it looked increasingly silly to focus on a single attribute like fineness, when ...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is noticeably more relaxed: ther...
Milano Unica: My first visit to the cloth fair
They said Milano Unica was like Pitti without the peacocks. That was partly true. Certainly, there are no photographers, so even though many of the same people visit Milano Unica (MU), they're not on display. Everyone is noticeably more relaxed: ther...
The future of media and fashion: Handcut Radio interview
This was a very good talk. I don't mean to sound surprised - I wasn't - but it's worth stating plainly how good this podcast interview with Aleks Cvetkovic was. It was fun - we laughed and said 'exactly!' a lot. But it was also substantive. Not too m...
The future of media and fashion: Handcut Radio interview
This was a very good talk. I don't mean to sound surprised - I wasn't - but it's worth stating plainly how good this podcast interview with Aleks Cvetkovic was. It was fun - we laughed and said 'exactly!' a lot. But it was also substantive. Not too m...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame, because a benefit of the way ...
Video: How a bespoke suit can be repaired
How a suit lasts - and can be repaired over time - doesn't get much focus in bespoke. The craft, the history, the style: they're all talked about more, and understandably so. They're a good deal sexier. But it's a shame, because a benefit of the way ...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield, and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the menswear staples we love. There are ...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield, and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the menswear staples we love. There are ...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about ...
A vintage shopping story: M47 Parka
This week is vintage week. You didn't know that, but it is. We're starting today with an article on a vintage piece of mine; we continue on Wednesday with the advice of three experts on buying vintage; and we finish on Friday with an interview about ...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involved, in particular hand-padding ...
Collar and armhole: How bespoke craft enhances fit
In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involved, in particular hand-padding ...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk about this one - worn for a recent inter...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk about this one - worn for a recent inter...
Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Circle
One of the good things about writing about caring for clothes, is that it spurs me to be better at it myself. I’m not too bad at most things, by the standards of Permanent Style. I brush and put cream on my shoes; I steam and brush my suits (rath...
Repair, recycle and de-pill knitwear: Cashmere Circle
One of the good things about writing about caring for clothes, is that it spurs me to be better at it myself. I’m not too bad at most things, by the standards of Permanent Style. I brush and put cream on my shoes; I steam and brush my suits (rath...
Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan Songs
It’s that time of the year again. So, with both apologies and thanks to readers that bemoaned the lack of this list last year, these are just a few of my favourite things... In these lists we try to go beyond menswear into other beautiful, crafted ...
Christmas gift list 2021: Shawls, soap and Swan Songs
It’s that time of the year again. So, with both apologies and thanks to readers that bemoaned the lack of this list last year, these are just a few of my favourite things... In these lists we try to go beyond menswear into other beautiful, crafted ...
Le Vif: A vintage shop like a regular shop
Le Vif in Paris is one of the most curated vintage stores around. What do I mean by that? Well, it has a particular view on the clothes it offers - in terms of quality, style and origin. It sells Americana, normally American-made. There’s no Br...
Le Vif: A vintage shop like a regular shop
Le Vif in Paris is one of the most curated vintage stores around. What do I mean by that? Well, it has a particular view on the clothes it offers - in terms of quality, style and origin. It sells Americana, normally American-made. There’s no Br...
A Dad in California: Styling with Davide of Ghiaia
In the past year Davide Baroncini, of knitwear brand Ghiaia, has been putting together and posting some looks that really resonate with me. Comfortable and relaxed, but with a really high taste level, they seem a long way from both the hype-driven ...
A Dad in California: Styling with Davide of Ghiaia
In the past year Davide Baroncini, of knitwear brand Ghiaia, has been putting together and posting some looks that really resonate with me. Comfortable and relaxed, but with a really high taste level, they seem a long way from both the hype-driven ...
When you buy clothes, what are you paying for?
I’m often asked by readers whether a particular piece of clothing is ‘worth it’. Yet the older I get - the further along my clothing journey - the more I realise how subjective this can be. Also, I’m finding my particular subjectivity is ch...
When you buy clothes, what are you paying for?
I’m often asked by readers whether a particular piece of clothing is ‘worth it’. Yet the older I get - the further along my clothing journey - the more I realise how subjective this can be. Also, I’m finding my particular subjectivity is ch...
Thank you for being interesting and useful: Comments on PS
It occurred to me recently that the point of, and policy on PS comments hasn't been talked about for a long time. It is usually hinted at, and only then when people skirt the edges of it. So here’s a summary, which will also become a static page o...
Thank you for being interesting and useful: Comments on PS
It occurred to me recently that the point of, and policy on PS comments hasn't been talked about for a long time. It is usually hinted at, and only then when people skirt the edges of it. So here’s a summary, which will also become a static page o...
Announcing: Dry January
Dry January is, at least in the UK, an opportunity for people to give up alcohol for a month to recover from some of the excesses of the holidays. It is in that same spirit that during January, Permanent Style will not write about any new clothing. T...
Announcing: Dry January
Dry January is, at least in the UK, an opportunity for people to give up alcohol for a month to recover from some of the excesses of the holidays. It is in that same spirit that during January, Permanent Style will not write about any new clothing. T...
What makes quality jeans - and should you care?
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessarily mean lower ...
What makes quality jeans - and should you care?
A reader commented recently (I paraphrase): “Why should I care about old jeans? They were all mass produced and basically the same.” There are a couple of things wrong with that. The first is that mass production doesn’t necessarily mean lower ...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But it was...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But it was...
Acme split-toe shoes: Review
Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that they c...
Acme split-toe shoes: Review
Everybody loves a bargain. I think one reader referred to it as the ‘siren song’ of cheaper-but-quality clothing. The reference is often apt. Enthusiasts of anything expensive are drawn to the idea - like hypnotised Greek sailors - that they c...
My watches - eight years later
I buy watches in much the same way as I suggest other people buy tailoring. I have a small number, of high quality, which meet a range of needs - formalities, colours, and a little extra to keep things interesting. I went through a period of abou...
My watches - eight years later
I buy watches in much the same way as I suggest other people buy tailoring. I have a small number, of high quality, which meet a range of needs - formalities, colours, and a little extra to keep things interesting. I went through a period of abou...
My new watch: Why I bought a seventies Speedmaster
Back in August, I wrote an article with some reflections on my watch collection, and mentioned that I was thinking of replacing my IWC Portugieser with a steel sports watch. I also asked horologically minded readers what their suggestions might be. ...
My new watch: Why I bought a seventies Speedmaster
Back in August, I wrote an article with some reflections on my watch collection, and mentioned that I was thinking of replacing my IWC Portugieser with a steel sports watch. I also asked horologically minded readers what their suggestions might be. ...
Crowley Vintage: Shopping a look
Crowley Vintage is a vintage shop in Brooklyn, New York with a more particular angle than most. We’ve talked in the past about different types of vintage - those that focus on older or newer, on rarity or thrift - but there are few that focus on ...
Crowley Vintage: Shopping a look
Crowley Vintage is a vintage shop in Brooklyn, New York with a more particular angle than most. We’ve talked in the past about different types of vintage - those that focus on older or newer, on rarity or thrift - but there are few that focus on ...
Readers awards 2023: Anniversary edition
Five years ago, in 2018, we began the PS awards series by asking about favourite brands, shops and stylists. This year I'd like to invite everyone to do the same, but actively reflect on how things have changed in the past five years. Five years ...
Readers awards 2023: Anniversary edition
Five years ago, in 2018, we began the PS awards series by asking about favourite brands, shops and stylists. This year I'd like to invite everyone to do the same, but actively reflect on how things have changed in the past five years. Five years ...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's, and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim. But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be a...
Bryceland’s black unsanforised jeans: Review
These are the first jeans I've had from Bryceland's, and I've been absolutely loving them - for the fit, the colour and the denim. But I was a little nervous about buying them, as I'd never had unsanforised denim before. Given I know this will be a...