The pop-up, the goods, and the opening party

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Thursday, February 21st 2019
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Personally, the best part of yesterday’s opening party was about half an hour before, when Graham of Optimo hats (below) told me how well the first two days had gone for him. ‘Really exceeded expectations’ were the words he used.

It was the best part because, lovely as it is seeing friends, and meeting readers, my biggest concern with the pop-up is always the brands.

They’ve taken a punt on me to travel halfway across the world and stand in a shop, and I worry every day that it’s not working out for them.

So, wonderful that Graham was going well.

The Rake had been round and talked about coverage; everyone had gone through the process of trying hats that suited their heads; and Graham was talking about how often he could come back.

Kristie at Joshua Ellis was also doing a sterling job – particularly in the technical questions she was getting from Graham and everyone else.

We had a long conversation about different types of cashmere, and how the product had got finer over the years (a good and a bad thing – it’s great quality but there were some advantages to coarser cashmere too).

Joshua Ellis have a nice range of scarves out, including some lightweights I hadn’t seen before.

And both Jerry and Chris from Prologue were there (below). Chris flies back today, leaving Jerry in charge for the duration, but he seemed happy enough (much to my relief).

I collected my first jacket from them, a green/grey summer jacket in a wool/silk/linen mix, which was good. I wouldn’t compare it to the top-end bespoke makers, but it’s still fantastic for under £1000.

The Prologue guys also had an interesting mix of new projects: samples of shoes made in a Chinese workshop that looked very good – machine sewn except around a hand-sewn waist.

And there was some little pieces of ready-to-wear, including Mandarin jackets in interesting hand-dyed cloths.

James Girdwood and I, meanwhile, pottered on with our products, picking up a few sales from regulars.

James’s watch straps and cordovan products are always popular (brand J.Girdwood) as are his Coherence coats and teba jackets

He also has a nice selection of fabrics to make tebas out of now – I have my eye on a lightweight beige wool with a thin maroon overcheck.

And readers came in to try on bridge coats, to pick up watch caps for these chilly mornings, and to try denim shirts (which have just arrived, in light and standard Everyday Denim).

Perhaps the nicest part for me on the product side was talking to shirtmaker Wil Whiting about the PS oxford cloth, which he says he can’t find an equivalent for anywhere. Wil was also being fitted for a hat with Graham – as were many people by the end.

Thank you everybody for coming over the first two days, and for coming and sharing a drink in the evening.

As a reminder, the shop is open at 37 Savile Row until Saturday featuring these brands (none of which are otherwise available in the UK) and then re-opens for the second week on Tuesday, with a new set.

All details here.

Photography: Milad Abedi

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Joel

Are the people in he photos well known people?
I recognise Ben from Drakes and Allan from Baudoin & Lange.

PS. Did you manage to ask Graham about Capellicio Cuervo hats?

Joel

Hi Simon,

Did you get a chance to ask Graham about Cervo hats?

Thanks

Joel

ANONYMOUS

If it helps with your stats, I’ll be making a two hour journey just for Optimo.

Too shy and scruffy for the party 🙁

Anonymous

How much are the Tebas please Simon? Thanks

Anonymous

I wish I had looked at them, would have bought one!!

Mac

Hi Simon

It was a great evening, lovely people, excellent hosts. By the way this is the second time we’ve been wearing similar jackets!

Stephen Pini

Ahh, there I am in the (very) blurred background 😉

I’m looking forward to getting the light denim and new oxford cloths commissioned.

And tell James I love his Fox / Dalcuore jacket – it’s a lovely piece.

Thanks for your hospitality,

Stephen

J. Girdwood

Thanks Stephen

Andy

what coherence coats is James carrying and what size run?

J. Girdwood

Hello Andy, I only have a few pieces left from Coherence currently. The Foufou in nailhead jersey tweed in a size Medium and the Henri in navy melton in sizes Medium and Large. Please call in for a look in the shop if you have the chance and I’m always very happy to answer detailed questions by email ([email protected]) or via Instagram.

Richard Jones

Popped in after a visit to Simone at the Dukes this evening. Simon, you were on your way home; can I ask the details of the canvas bag please?

Jerry is a lovely guy. I’m excited for the follow-up post…

Richard Jones

Thank you Simon.

Yes – a lovely story, and his jacket was fantastic.

Scott

Simon, did Joshua Ellis bring any cashmere stoles? If so, what’s your opinion of them?

Scott

Great! I really like a large scarf, but they’re hard to find so this is good news indeed!

Jason Leung

Hello Simon

First of all congratulations on your opening party. I am a third-yeary student currently studying in the the the the UK. I will be graduating in this JULY, therefore, I am looking to make a suite here in the UK after some research Suit Supply seems to be a good saturating point. I went and talked with one of the made to measure tailor, and I was interested in a Holland & Sherry 140’s cloth. A 2 piece will start at £899, I am wondering if this a fair price to pay? I do understand H&S cloth don’t come cheap but £899 still seems a lot to pay for made to measure, is there any other tailor you will recommend me to look into within the price range of £1000? Thank you so much for your response this will surely be helpful for anyone looking to get there first suit.

Jason

Hi salmon

Thanks for your reply, I am familiar with Prologue since I am from Hong Kong and had thought about it. However, I need my suit in July, therefore I don’t think they have enough time to deliver the suit within this specific timeframe.

S

Simon,

You wouldn’t recommend Graham Browne anymore? They’re still around GBP 1000 I think.

Thanks,
S

S

Thanks. It seems you are not very enthusiastic about them anymore?

The trousers they make these days (made in the basement) are quite good in my opinion and deserve comparison to many much more expensive tailors.

S

Gonzague

The Optimo poster looks very nice (so do the hats, incidentally).

Ali I

Great pictures – all looking impeccable.

Quick, and slightly unrelated question – with a pin-striped, double-breasted suit will wearing a pocket square be too over the top?

Ali

Anonymous

I need to wear it for a wedding overseas – I think I will go without!

Ali

Bolaji Babafemi

Many congratulations for your uplifting effort, certainly no meant feat to curate all of this. Jogged through the Row on Sunday, something caught my eye in the window, looked up to note the address, and low and behold, pleasantly chuffed to see the elegantly scripted PS signage above the shop. More grease to your elbows and all the assembled brands. Does any of them stock berets in felt or wool?

DE

Great to meet you again at the pop-up yesterday. However, I have to say that meeting Ethan (from Bryceland’s) was a real treat. I would urge any readers of PS to visit the shop this week and spend some time with Ethan (and his clothes). He is funny, interesting, philosophical, poetic and generous – in a 15 minute chat he helped me to totally reassess how I make my clothes related purchasing decisions (as well as concisely explaining why turn-ups work so well). Thanks Simon, keep up the good work!

Daniel Thomas

Hello Simon,
Thrilled with the lighter denim shirt and pocket Square I picked up last Saturday. The shirt is a fabulous fit and the Adret pocket square in the palest grey is quite beautiful. The atmosphere in the pop-up was welcoming and lovely and it was very nice to meet you.
Daniel

Tim Fleming

I’m thinking you’ll be continuing the pop-ups, so I was just curious if you could confirm this and if so, when the next one would be, please?

Thanks!