Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
The Permanent Style pop-up shop is coming back to 37 Savile Row, in the second half of March.
Those following PS on Instagram stories might have seen the gradual announcements, but we have just confirmed the final two brands this week: Scott Fraser Collection and Lafayette Saltiel.
So, the pop-up will be in its usual space on the Row, for two weeks. The first week will run from Tuesday March 17 to Saturday March 21, and the second from March 24 to 28.
As per usual, each week will feature a different set of brands. Those brands are:
Week 1: March 17-21
- Berg & Berg
- Scott Fraser Collection
- Acate Bags
- Sartoria Melina
- Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers
Week 2: March 24-28
- The Armoury / Dayware
- Marrkt / Reader sales
- Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers
We’ve put Lafayette in both weeks because their cloth will be available throughout - unless it all sells. And it will be managed by myself and James Girdwood, rather than having the Lafayette team here.
As well as these brands, all Permanent Style products will be available to buy and try (including one new launch) and so will J.Girdwood (with a running discount).
I’m really excited about both weeks, because again the brands are largely new - and each time this creates a very particular atmosphere.
There will also be an opening party on the Wednesday of the first week, March 18, which all readers are welcome to come along to.
Here’s a quick run-down on each brand and what they’re bringing to the pop-up.
Berg & Berg
Readers will doubtless be familiar with the Swedish brand Berg & Berg, which has a full range of great menswear, often at slightly cheaper levels than other classic menswear brands.
This will be a great one for coming in and trying your size, as there is the range there to build out a full wardrobe of shirts or trousers. The team will have the full Spring/Summer season to show, including pieces like the Folke shirt and Alfons trousers above - which typify Berg & Berg in many ways, combining great materials and classic cuts, in a fun and modern way.
Scott Fraser Collection
I’m equally sure some readers will know the Scott Fraser Collection, which is inspired by vintage eras of fashion to create knitwear, tailoring and shirts. Scott operates out of a studio in East London, but as with all these brands has no store, so we’re bringing him to the full glare of retail for the first time.
Scott’s elegant, wide-leg trousers are all made in London, and the knitwear in Italy - where the 50s-feel designs and manufacturing originated. Most of it is made to order, but Scott will also bring some ready-made pieces for those that want to walk away with something - and a small collection of vintage.
As with all these brands, you can see more about Scott’s work, and prices, on his website listed above.
I covered Acate back in summer last year, on this post. They're a Japanese brand making very high-quality, simply designed leather accessories in Italy.
I particularly like the real shrunken leather for its soft and flexible feel, and the Hermes-like clay grey. I pictured the Ostro bag then, but I also like the new tote they have this year, the Kaus (shown above).
Sartoria Melina you should know - I’ve covered their bespoke leather jackets from Naples a few times. My most recent commission was a dark-olive blazer, which I’ve much improved on the first by lengthening it, broadening the shoulders and lowering the gorge.
Melina have also been at the pop-up before. However, the difference this time is that they will have a small collection of ready-made blazers available.
I know some will still want their leather made, and for that Melina do trunk shows in London. But others will find they fit one of the sized blazers well, and enjoy picking one up without appointments and fittings.
Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers
Lafayette is the French agent for many cloth mills, but has become known recently for its collection of vintage bolts from the past few decades.
When I was in Paris recently, I picked out 10 cloths I particularly liked, and they will be available to buy as cut lengths in the pop-up. They include an airforce flannel that is heavier than any other I’ve seen; a check with load of primary colours; and a mohair mix that’s the older piece they have.
There are also two bedford cords (navy and olive) which I liked, surprisingly for me, and a flannel that the darkest brown I’ve ever seen. None of them are for everyone - but then, that’s not what you want with vintage cloth.
Rubato are Oliver and Carl from Stockholm, and were covered on PS previously here. Their knitwear has been extremely popular - particularly among those that wear high-waisted trousers.
It’s short in the body, generous in the chest, and made to be practical - in good lambswool at good prices. The guys also say they are going to bring along some previews of new things in the collection…
The Armoury / Dayware
The Armoury have been at the pop-up before as well, when they were introducing their shoes. This time they’re here to focus on their casual Dayware collection - as well as bringing the new tailoring model, 101.
Dayware is interesting because it brings together a very functional set of casual clothes from The Armoury. There are T-shirts and denim made in collaboration with Nigel Cabourn, as well as The Armoury’s three-pocket blouson, with the focus at the pop-up being the cotton-drill version, which is heavy enough to be an effective layer in colder weather.
There's also the new David tote bag from The Armoury (above), made in a heavy duty Japanese takeyari canvas.
Lutays is a start-up by Jean-Baptiste Rosseeuw, who some might remember from his previous job at Lavabre Cadet. He has launched a project to recreate and reinterpret French workwear jackets, using a couture maker in Paris.
All the jackets are made to order at the moment, but the designs you can see on the Lutays site will be on display at the pop-up to see and try. Although inspired by French working pieces, the make and cloths are rather more luxurious, and worth seeing first-hand.
Now this is interesting. Marrkt is an online shop selling second-hand and ex-season clothes, from brands like The Real McCoy’s and from contributors such as myself.
For the pop-up shop, however, Marrkt is intending to offer clothes sent by readers as well. Anyone that is interested should contact them on [email protected]. They’re looking for the kind of classic, crafted clothes we discuss on Permanent Style, as well as great vintage pieces.
Do talk to them and send in advance though, rather than turning up to the shop with contributions.
That’s it. I’m so excited about hanging out in the shop again, chatting to you all, and probably buying too many things from the brands myself.
James Girdwood’s discount on current RTW items, by the way, is live on his shop now and will run until the end of the pop-up.
And we were going to host Rowing Blazers from New York in week 1, but they unfortunately had to pull out.
Opening times on the shop are:
- Tuesday to Friday: 11am to 7pm
- Saturday: 10am to 6pm
- Monday and Sunday: Closed
Do let me know if I’ve forgotten anything else.
Hi Simon. Going by previous pop-ups I cannot wait. It is always a lovely welcoming inclusive atmosphere and adds so much to the Row.
That all sounds great. I’m particularly interested in Melina, but probably can’t make week 1. However, I happen to be in Naples right now. Do they actually have a shop or showroom? Ideally, I’d like to drop in, have a good browse and maybe try a few things on before deciding on a commission. I’m not sure how to go about it, though. Their website doesn’t seem to be operational. Any advice?
They have a workshop but it’s a good half an hour drive outside town. Jolanda is often in town though – I’d message them on Instagram and see which works best
Any chance there will be another run of the white Oxford cloth in time for the pop up?
No, sorry. I can have a shirt there so you can see the cloth though, if that’s what you want?
Thanks Simon. I already have the blue and striped, so am already comfortable with what it will be like, thanks though. Was just too slow for the white batch. I hope there will be another run in the future.
There will be, no worries. Do email [email protected] to get on the waiting list just to be sure
Hi Simon, Great news and timing is almost perfect for me… almost as I will be flying back to Melbourne mid afternoon on 17 March so hopefully I will have enough time to pop in before heading to the airport. Quick question – Will you have new stock of both the white and striped Oxford cloth by then and will it be available at the pop-up?
Oh good Simon.
I’m afraid we won’t have more white by then, but we might have the stripe
Do you have photos of the new melina olive jacket? Side by side would be cool to see too
Only a couple I used on Instagram. I’ll maybe do a comparison at a later stage
Apart from Anderson & Sheppard, Steed and Steven Hitchcock are there any other soft tailoring, drape specialists in London?
Do you know if The Armoury will be bringing over their Rocky Mountain featherbed collaboration pieces? Also any idea if their pricing will be similar to their website? Thanks
I don’t, no, but I can ask.
The pricing should be similar, yes.
Thanks Simon. That would be great.
Hi Tom – I checked and they weren’t planning to, because they don’t have many sizes. But they’d happily bring your size if you contact them. Ask for Marcus
I had been eyeing Scott’s trousers for some time, and I finally took the plunge recently. In a YOLO moment I ordered a relatively wild fabric choice – the ‘salt and pepper’ that can be seen at https://www.instagram.com/p/B7zJyDjJWBr/. I think I should have known better; it’s cool but rather loud and busy. In the outfits I’ve tried so far, it has only really worked with a plain navy sweater; anything more complicated or layered seems to make the outfit far too busy. Do you have any further advice on how to wear busy trousers?
Just to be clear: Scott’s trousers have a great silhouette and are well made. I just realize I might have done better to follow common wisdom and choose a plain grey or beige to start with.
Navy would be my first thought, then cream knitwear. Maybe black as well?