We have similar influences in classic menswear and vintage sportswear. We both love tonal dressing, hats and larger jackets. But Ethan has more Ivy influences, wears high-waisted trousers, and is more likely to combine more unusual pieces (particularly vintage).
Also, where my aim is generally to be simply well-dressed, to be subtle and refined, Ethan is more experimental and happy to stand out. Age and environment probably have something to do with it, but it’s just as much about personal aims too.
The similarities show we have principles in common – which then makes you respect the differences, and question them. Would I wear white socks with tailoring? Why I don’t wear more patterned shirts? Can I pull off a bucket hat?
I would probably reject the vast majority, but as I’ve written about with fashions, consistently challenging your style in this way is the way to stop it becoming stale.
Which of course is why I asked Ethan to take part in this series, and explain the combinations in these, some of my favourite outfits.
For those that don’t know, Ethan lives in Los Angeles and runs his own blog, A Little Bit of Rest, as well as the podcast Style & Direction. He can be found on Instagram at @ethanmwong.
Outfit 1: Casual suit, white socks
Ethan: “I like this outfit because even though the outfit is tailored, it still feels very casual.
It helps that the suit isn’t a true dark navy, but the use of a casual shirt and suede loafers helps too. I think the knit tie adds a bit of somberness to the outfit, as well as being a slight Ivy nod; a repp tie or geometric would make it too dandy in my opinion.
The suit is custom from Ascot Chang suit (in Holland & Sherry Crispaire) with a 1950s khaki workshirt, Kamakura knit tie, and Alden x Brogue ‘Harvey’ tassel loafers.
I’m sure some readers will be unsure about the white socks. Personally I find white socks (and variations of cream and light grey) wonderful!
I think it’s best to think of them as a way to make tailoring feel and look less stuffy. I’m sure your readers know plenty of menswear guys who do it, and what I’ve found is it tends to go well with casual elements like wider silhouettes or more rugged cloth, like flannels or cotton twill.
Starting out with jeans, chinos, and odd trousers is a great way to get used to it. Not everyone has to do it with smart tailoring, but I like the feel. I’d definitely avoid actual gym socks though.
Outfit 2: Casual jacket, bucket hat
“I feel like this outfit is inspired by a few things: a little bit of Drake’s/Aimé Leon Dore, the tonal ideas of Saman Amel or P Johnson, and of course all done in my way, which means a bit more vintage and Ivy.
The jacket is a Marling & Evans houndstooth from Ring Jacket USA which has a bit of a broad shoulder and a fuller cut. I typically like more contrast with my trousers, but since this was a sunny day (and I was feeling that tonal inspiration), I paired it with these vintage ecru/light khaki Levi’s 501s.
They’re from the MiUSA [made-in-USA] era, so they have a high rise and straight fit, which I like from a jean. My shirt is a cotton sportshirt (Cuban collar) from the 1940s, though the long points are tucked in to avoid the #menswear ‘runaway collar’ that is often done with similar shirts [where the collar is worn over the top of the jacket’s collar]. To break up the light colours and make the fit more Ivy, I added my cotton Drake’s sleeveless cardigan.
The shoes are Wallabees from Padmore & Barnes in a light suede to slightly echo the light colours of the rest of the outfit. They also provide an Ivy nod, though are rather contemporary too given how often I see them.
The most unusual thing here is probably the bucket hat. I probably benefit from the fact that I’m still young, so being childlike seems more appropriate!
I think leaning into the fun of an outfit allows you to pull off a bucket hat, echoing the use of white socks. Bucket hat with jeans and sportcoat sans tie? Yes! Bucket hat with a business suit? Probably not. I never liked ballcaps so a bucket hat fills that space for me. I like to figure out if the bucket hat feels natural to the outfit rather than a fashion accessory.
Outfit 3: Vintage knit, striped shirts
“I love this outfit. If I remember correctly, I put it together when I was watching The Crown for the first time, so this is probably inspired by some scenes in the 1950s.
It’s a vintage Brooks Brothers Makers shirt in a bengal stripe, underneath a 1940s sweater vest, with its characteristic close fit and wide ribbing. The outfit continues that tonal feeling I’ve been having, so the navy blue is repeated in a vintage club tie and a wonderfully plush wide-wale cord trouser from Magill.
A key part of this outfit I feel is the striped shirt. I think it’s no secret that I have an intense love affair with striped shirts: I find them so much more interesting than plain ones, which I seldom wear outside of casual pieces. If you look at old 1930s Apparel Arts illustrations, you’ll see that many men are wearing striped shirts with seemingly every pattern: geometrics, bold abstract designs, and a plethora of stripes.
I wear my stripes in the same way, but with a bit of attention to colour. For example I find that blue- or burgundy-based patterned ties go with everything, so that’s what I typically wear, particularly with abstract geometrics and repp stripes/clubs. Navy-based ties are probably best since they’re more versatile and have a much more somber feel.
Outfit 4: Full cut, alligator belt
“This outfit might be peak Ethan, as in the thing that is most me, at least where tailoring is concerned.
It’s a contemporary take on vintage tailoring that combines pieces from both eras. The jacket is another one from Ring Jacket USA, this time in a dark-brown plaid made from their proprietary Balloon cloth (a must in Los Angeles).
The shirt is an old custom piece I got years ago that has the spearpoint collar seen in old films and Esquire magazines; you can see that the taper is much more apparent and it’s shorter than what we saw in the 1970s.
The tie is a deadstock green polka dot from the 1930s-1940s, which goes wonderfully with the blues and browns of the top half. The elephant-grey trousers are taken from a 1940s gabardine suit and are perhaps my ideal trouser silhouette, despite the fact I don’t own many dress pants in this cut. The shoes are my beloved Alden tassels in Color 8 shell cordovan.
It’s interesting I’m wearing a belt here. When I commission trousers or suits, I typically ask for side adjusters just to keep things streamlined. However, I do like wearing belts! Part of the reason I’ve got one here is that a lot of my trousers are vintage, and belt loops are common: vintage jeans, chinos, and occasional flannel trousers from Polo RL.
I also like the mid-century charm of a thin, exotic leather belt; this vintage one is alligator, has a one-inch width, and has a fun western buckle. The gabardine trousers have thin dropped loops on a Hollywood waistband, so it was practically begging for this belt!
Outfit 5: Western looks and hat angles
“Clearly this was inspired by the Bryceland’s aesthetic, though I’ve owned some of these pieces for a while and have done similar outfits in the past; it could be retroactive!
My jacket is again from Ring with the trousers a vintage pair of Polo RL flannels in dark green. My shirt is an LVC [Levi’s Vintage Clothing] sawtooth, which certainly brings that Brycelands/Ethan Newton vibe to mind.
The black fedora is the real star, a custom piece from Wellema Hat Co. It’s my second piece from him, commissioned at the beginning of the pandemic.
Angling a fedora is a tricky thing and I think it depends not only on the type of fedora, but the outfit you’re wearing. I like wearing my fedoras pointed forward with the brim snapped down when I’m wearing smarter looks; my brown Wellema is perfect for that.
However, putting that vibe on every outfit feels a bit too much like a Party City gangster, where cocking it back with the brim snapped up feels more western, which is in line with the vibes of this outfit (thanks to the denim shirt). I actually keep this black fedora snapped up for that reason, as that’s how I typically style it!
Outfit 6: Casual/tailoring crossover
“Another tonal look! The jacket is a linen ‘chore-blazer’ I got from a random shop during a family trip to Paris. The shirt is a very open, basket-weave style from the 1930s; it’s beat up, so it’s best worn ultra casually with a bit of slouch.
The wide-legged trousers I bought when I was at university, from an old Uniqlo U collection. They’re a light seersucker in a great shade of brown. The shoes are the Wallabees again and if you look closely, you’ll see that I’ve got on a thin 1960s horizontal striped tie as a belt!
An interesting point here is the parallels between tailoring and casual wear. At one point in my menswear journey, I was convinced that my casual style had to be different from my tailoring style; this is how I got into rugged Ivy, milsurp [military surplus] and workwear.
Over time however, I realised that my love of tailoring was really about certain details: soft shoulders, drooping lapels, wide hems, a high rise, and clean lines/drape. A lot of those can apply to casual clothing too.
That was particularly obvious when I worn period-accurate vintage, where sportswear (casual wear) was built on the ideas of tailoring. It was only natural for me to start incorporating them when I wasn’t ‘dressed up’, this time with even more references to milsurp and workwear.
It all points to what I think is the endgame of menswear: the ability to wear anything you want but still have a cohesive style.
Ethan M. Wong (instagram)
A Little Bit of Rest (blog)
Style & Direction (soundcloud)
I think platforming Ethan here is a great move and makes a wonderful contrast to Simon’s style, showing not just differences in tastes but also the impact of different cultural contexts which I think is crucial.
Simon is in London – basically the center of the world in terms of bespoke tailoring, and where even in the 21st century a degree of formality is if not required then at least expected. The weather means flannel suits and trousers are eminently practical and allows for those gorgeous overcoats – god, I wish they were at all practical here!
Ethan is in Los Angeles, like me. It’s infinitely hotter here and lacks any formal traditions. A suit and tie immediately stands out, either as a professional marker or a fashion decision (both in my case). The range of dress among those who are being intentional about it, meanwhile, is huge and varied and pretty intense (and performative? sure, it’s Hollywood after all).
The upshot, really, is that some of the combinations and casual details that certain folks are reading as lookbook-y about Ethan’s dress are what part of what makes it read as appropriate in Los Angeles, while many of Simon’s looks would seem far more costumey here! No one would blink at the bucket hat fit in LA.
With all due respect to Ethan, who I think is a very well-dressed person based purely on the images in this article, I’m quite confident the answer to the question “can I pull off a bucket hat” is always “yes: just make sure you’re standing knee-deep in a river fishing for trout”.
I think you’re being a little trite there Alex – plenty of people look good in one in a casual outfit.
Apologies, my comment was somewhat facetious. It’s a personal bias of mine perhaps, having grown up but I’m struggling to recall an occasion where I thought a bucket hat improved an outfit (Woody Allen included). Maybe it’s my abject distaste for anything even remotely associated with Oasis.
Ha! Yes that certainly doesn’t help
Liam Gallagher copied the bucket hat from The Stone Roses’ drummer Reni. In John Robb’s Roses bio, people used to ask him where he got the hats, if they were custom made etc which baffled Reno, he said: “I buy them anywhere, from airports mainly!”
Very true re Oasis. Although outside the UK I don’t think very many people would make that association…
Woody Allen used to wear one while working outdoors, often with an Oxford button down shirt or a filed jacket. Oddly enough, he looked rather good in it. I think it has something to do with the working vibe of the film set.
Appreciate you gathering a diverse set of styles within the tailoring realm. I really enjoyed article and it’s very interesting to see how others get creative with their clothing. We can often get stuck on the rules where optimising everything can kill all the fun and forget that clothing can be used to express our personality.
Great seeing Ethan on here and the reminder on how we can enjoy the differences even if it might not be our cup of tea. I also think Ethan’s found his element by adapting his love of tailoring to fit his unique attributes and background compared to his younger years wearing period accurate clothing. Ethan nicely bridges the gap for newcomers and those more entrenched in the menswear/tailoring scene.
Your vast experience with clothing and the addition of more personal commentary has really taken an already fantastic resource to another level. Thanks very much Simon.
I have a ventile bucket hat which I use when it rains if I don’t have an umbrella. It’s very practical as I can have it folded in a pocket even if it’s not my favourite headwear. The only comment I’ve received was that it was a “dad hat”. Given that I’m in my 30s and have two kids, I didn’t take offence!
Dear Simon,
I don’t recognize anything Asian (which I would expect) in Ethan’s style, which I respect as initiative in individual expression. My vague inkling of Asian – Far Asian aesthetics includes the merkmal of simplicity. I disagree with Ethan about what is truly beautiful. His selection seems to me to be too cluttered and picks a bucket hat instead of an Optima. My problem is not hid choice of white socks. He seems to ignore colour combinations. Why not strive for beauty?
In most cases an Optimo would be a rather smart choice, and perhaps not suit his age or playful approach either. He certainly doesn’t ignore colour combinations either.
However, there is often a contrast between beauty and playfulness – the former does tend to be simpler and more refined. Nothing wrong with which you aim for though.
Nice one to give this platform to Ethan. I’ve been following him for a while and he’s evolved very interestingly as a dresser.
Too much overthinking. The guy looks like a walking lookbook which is great for IG but has little substance behind.
Valid point Nestor, but I don’t think you can really say there’s no substance behind it without knowing Ethan. This is what he wears every day. It might be more unusual, or not what you’d wear, but it’s both real and thought through.
Also, if I may add to you Simon, yes, this probably is what he wears every day. But nevertheless I could image that these pictures were chosen to express certain ways and convey certain principles on how Ethan dresses, meaning: communicate a board topic in a very condensed manner.
It’s rarely advisable to make assumptions off of such circumstances and I therefor find NÈSTORs comment to be rather harsh.
I think “too much overthinking” could be another name for my blog! I definitely think that if you knew me IRL, you’d see that perhaps there is TOO much substance behind many of these outfits.
It is precisely the overthinking which gives it substance. How else do you get substance with clothing?
This white sock thing seems to be here to stay (for a while). It’s not my cup of tea at all, but don’t mind at all when others love to wear them. What I don’t get though is him saying “Starting out with jeans, chinos, and odd trousers is a great way to get used to it”. Why should someone “get used to” something that doesn’t seem right in the first place. It’s almost like intentionally starting smoking. The first cigarette tastes awful, but to get used to it try… 😉 Me disliking white socks is not out of a snobbish attitude, it just looks plain awful to my eyes particularily under tailoring.
Have you opinions on clothing never changed over time Fatih? Mine certainly have, and particularly when I’ve tried wearing something myself.
It’s sometimes only through wearing clothing, and trying it with different things you already own, wear and know, that you realise why others like it, or where the appeal lies.
With white socks, they’re a more obvious match for casual trousers like jeans and chinos, and you might find that that’s all you ever wear them with. But you might also try them with tailoring and find you like it too. I’ve tried, and don’t like it either. But it’s always worth trying things out and playing around.
I think this presumes that one is always going to be against it no matter what. There are plenty of menswear items that people are intrigued with yet are hesitant or unsure of how to get started! Wearing a fedora perhaps or a softly tailored shoulder- if you have never done it before, it can take “getting used to” despite your interest in it. I think my suggestion works if you like the idea of white socks, but haven’t yet made the full commitment to try it!
I mean, I could say the smoking analogy to alcohol. I knew I’d eventually like it, but on first taste, it definitely wasn’t the apple juice I had grown up drinking!
I’m assuming he means “if you’re interested in the idea but unsure if it could work with your personal style or would suit you.” There are plenty of people who wonder if they could pull off something from another’s look or if it might suit them (hats, for example.) The only way to find out is to give it a try.
Those that hate the idea and don’t think it is going to work for them aren’t likely to be tempted to give it a try. Personally, I can’t see myself ever wearing white socks outside of a gym but I am probably 20 years older and live in the UK and the associations are going to be different for me than a 20s guy in LA.
I think this is a fantastic cross-over! I think PS and A Little bit of Rest are two of the most honest, personal honest and thoughtful menswear blogs/sites out there.
Definitely going to invest in both a navy and grey sweater vest. So versatile.
I’m a huge fan of modern ivy- the ivy with a twist.
Camel/tan is also a really nice collar for a sleeveless cardigan
Indeed, as I don’t know him my comment in regards to the lack of substance of his dressing can be only based on this post, in which Ethan explains in a quite detailed way his rationing of getting dressed and construction of outfits. And this seems to be based mostly in menswear popular outfitters (Drake’s, Brycelands, etc.)
There is nothing wrong with wearing white socks, sawtooth denim shirts and bucket hats. The issue is wearing all these for no other reason than because you have seen it in the 2020 lookbooks or IG of the above or other people inspired by those. It lacks authenticity . If it was 2010 he would be wearing unbuckled double monks and find a rationing for it. Yes, he will be well dressed because his looks are harmonious and to a certain extent and within the CM informed people he looks fashionable and well put. It’s not only what we put on, it’s why we put it on.
Thanks for clarifying Nestor. It does still feel like you’re assuming a lot though – both what someone used to wear and why they are wearing these things today. All you’re really picking up on is the fact that someone is interested in current trends.
I think it’s worth you reading Ethan’s blog. Even a brief read would make it clear he’s interested in much more.
This is comment quite funny, because I literally have long (VERY LONG) essays on each of those topics and how I became enamored with them. Sure some contemporary brands and dressers feature prominently, but a lot of them are based in my roots as a vintage collector. And many of the pieces in this blog post have been owned by me for years!
To be fair, I’m only 25 so if you look back on my menswear journey starting about 5-6 years ago, it definitely will have some roots in what shaped the #menswear period.
I encourage you to read my blog on those topics if you want a much more authentic view on why I like those things and the history of that process.
Authenticity doesn’t preclude being inspired by IG, logbooks, friends or any other source. We are indeed always influenced by others consciously or not.
Being authentic means making an active choice, being comfortable in what one wears (or does), being happy with those choices and making them one’s own.
What please is Milsurp?
It’s in the article Pedro. Sorry if this sounds harsh, but I’m not sure sometimes that people actually read before commenting.
I did read and not find it, so I asked you! You are quite cross with your answer, so I read again and still don’t.
Sorry for my English. Please don’t be cross at me.
No worries Pedro, just me being testy. It’s in there – short for military surplus
One of the two style writers worth reading writing about the other one. Didn’t see that coming. But I can sure see the negative comments being written right now.
If I were to presume to write a How to Dress Like Simon Crompton, I would certainly stress subtlety and refinement, but also quality (the finest menswear), precision of fit in many different respects, and aptness for the occasion. These seem to me basic to the aesthetic of PS. None of them really comes into play here, so that what’s presented is How to Costume Oneself in Accord with Ethan Wong’s Procedures, with a lookbook of instances. That—individuated costumery—is how I always dressed, and often still do; but what I’ve learned from being an avid reader of PS, is to find that mode reductive in its slighting of quality, fit, and aptness. I’d be interested in your reaction to this, Simon.
Hi Penn,
Interesting points.
I certainly think you’re right in your characterisation of my style, which is nice.
With Ethan, I think it’s a little off the mark. He is not buying the finest quality, but he is still very interested in the qualities of clothing – weights, textures, shades – to the same degree. And even obsessed with those qualities in vintage clothing he’s seeking out.
He’s also very interested in fit, just less interested in a neat and elegant fit – slightly more slouchy, casual and relaxed. But no less considered.
I don’t think it’s costume, because the outfits aren’t pure recreation of clothes in a particular period. There’s mixing, originality and personality in all of them still. I also think Ethan bears aptness very much in mind – wearing smarter clothes to shows etc.
Mostly it’s just a different style. One that – as I outline at the start – is less about appearing subtle, elegant and refined, and more about being more playful, without any consideration of standing out.
I wouldn’t recommend it to most people I know, and it’s not my style, but as is ALWAYS the case, there are things to learn from anyone that dresses with consideration and character. Even dismissing a single outfit as a simple thumbs up or thumbs down is too simplified, and rather closed minded.
I hope that’s what you wanted thoughts/reaction on
S
Some great looks.
I particularly like outfits 1 & 2 and outfit 5 is a brilliant example of how to wear the correct gold buttoned blazer.
The only outfit I don’t like is 6 – it has no redeeming features – and I don’t know why he wears hats. He has great hair that will always look better than any hat.
I don’t know how tall he is but this could be a testimony that it is body shape that matters when it comes to DB jackets and high rise trousers and not height.
Thanks for liking my hair! I actually let my hair loose quite often- maybe Simon is the one who doesn’t like my hair, hahah!
Sometimes I do like rocking hats just because its fun!
I think outfit 6 is a pretty cool holiday look. Outfit 5 my favourite too. Outfit 4 my least favourite. I think the tie makes you look kinda short.
I think Ethan has it ‘spot on’ for himself; its not all my taste but I see him a lot online and always think he looks cool. He always seems comfortable and that’s the thing really, all power to him.
Well I prefer the PS motto of being simply well dressed. While Mr. Wong puts a lot of thought into his outfits, he clearly has that LA or California look. This style reminds me somewhat of Richard Gere in American Gigolo with that 80s Armani clothing.
Great article Simon. I’ve been enjoying following Ethan; he’s earnest and unpretentious in a way I wasn’t in my 20’s!
I quite like Ethan’s style and been following him for a while. I do think it would not go down well with PS readers though
I don’t think people come here because they want to dress like Simon do they? I suppose I can really only speak for myself but I like this blog because it takes a thoughtful approach toward better dressing for men. You could take a lot of the general principles that Simon writes about and use them to improve your style, whether you want to look like an Italian sophisticate, a London dandy, a SF tech bro, or even a punk rocker or a metalhead. This guy looks cool and I think someone can learn about how to improve their own style game from him, even if we have no intention of looking like him.
Fantastic! Ethan’s looks are not what I’d reach out to personally, but it’s always a lot of fun to read about people who enjoy and stand confident about their own sense of style. Sometimes the “rules” plague me to a sense of obligation that I should only combine A with B, C with D, but it’s always a good twist to see people confidently and happily wearing A with D and looking good (if that makes any sense)
It does indeed. Rules are never more than a starting point, an education before you go off and do your own thing. As of course described here.
And even if it just makes you play with A and D together, and re-confirm that they don’t work for you, that’s instructive.
I think having Ethan here is fantastic. Though I can see why there’s so much general confusion in the comments. It’s worth noting some things though: 1) he doesn’t dress with a bespoke budget, which to me makes his style choices all the more interesting. 2) he’s young and in Los Angeles. Both of these things make it so what he’s wearing feels punk. I’ve said this before: but I think it’s worth applauding that he’s found a bit of rebel culture in tailoring.
Totally agree. He’s in his early 20s and in LA. Good for him.
Agree, and as someone living just a bit further north of Ethan, and a bit younger, this is something way easier for me to take inspiration from in practice.
Hey Simon-
I really enjoy this series. Adds meat to the bones of these IG figures.
Outfit #6 particularly appealing. Not easy to look great in the LA sweltering heat. The Chore Blazer does the trick. Reminder that there is a whole world of style beyond a SR tailored suit.
I wore Wallabees in the 70’s. They were the go to footwear for every US prep school kid to match his blue blazer, button down oxford and rep silk tie. Who knew 50 years later they would experience a revival ?
As always Simon, good stuff.
A post I never expected to see, but find very interesting. A shame about some of the rather antagonistic comments concerning Ethan, his style, and his blog. Although there are only elements of his style which I would use personally, I think the contrasts and difference between you are illuminating. I’ve read Ethans articles for a number of years and what comes accross is his good natured enthusiasm, and ability to self critique. I can understand this more vintage take on menswear doesn’t appeal to all, but observation and comparison are always useful tools to learning and seeing things from a different perspective.
Well said
Darryl, I was going to same something similar but you said it better than I could. I completely agree with your comments.
Idem
HI simon, thanks for featuring ethan here. I have followed him for a while and have seen him evolve stylistically to something which I really quite associate with even though I’m almost twice his age and a different life stage. He looks really comfortable in his clothes, doesn’t mind experimenting and shows that you don’t need to look sleek and tidy all the time to look good. His write-ups on content are also pretty well researched and make for pretty interesting read too.
Agree. The imagery in particular is always strong. The posts can be long but he openly admits that!
I’ve been following Ethan for a while and have really enjoyed how he has articulated his changing approach to dress and menswear. (Although if I took a drink every time he use the word “slouchy” I not only would be dead of alcohol poisoning, my body would be so pickled they wouldn’t need to embalm me.) And while we’ve never met, his style seems to be a direct reflection of his personality, which is I think the point of style. Some of the commenters seem to forget that menswear can be used to convey playfulness or even subversion. It may not be the message they want to convey, but then they don’t have to dress that way, do they? He’s a great example of being intentional with his look, and that’s why I’m a fan.
Well put DA. Style should express personality and be done with intention. It’s the lack of intention that’s usually the most depressing thing.
What I like most about Ethan’s style is its authenticity–it all looks well and truly *him.* I think that’s something we should all aim for–to have a clearly defined style that’s distinct enough to be personal without seeming contrived. Not only has Ethan done that, but he’s done it with great knowledge of and appreciation for history–to recapture the menswear “Golden Age” while maintaining enough contemporary elements to avoid anachronism. I think he’s an insightful guy and a great dresser, and I’m thrilled to see him featured here.
As a California guy, Party City gangster made me laugh.
Good to see Ethan on here. His earnestness comes through in his outfits.
I think it’s great that you featured Ethan, actually. I follow him on Instagram. Most of his outfits just aren’t going to work for a 40 year old guy in London, but I find it interesting what he’s doing nevertheless. I guess his style is more “fashion”, which followers of Permanent Style might shy away from. For many of us it’s more about dressing well, but standing out would not be ideal. Ethan does a number of combinations that would work though, especially in the more casual space.
Hi Simon.
There seems so be an ad between one of the paragraphs. I recall this is something you deliberately avoided. I just thought I’d point it out incase it’s a mistake to be corrected.
Hi Edric,
It is something we have introduced recently, but only on mobile devices – where there isn’t room to have all the ads that can be on the right-hand side of the desktop version. Do you think it’s distracting? There’s not much other space on mobile!
Yes, it’s actually distracting, as I’m used to having photos actually related to the article in between the paragraphs. Perhaps keep the ads at the top or bottom of the page? I know your content or your policy didn’t change, but the ads in the middle of an article remind me too much of those sponsored content articles. I hope you don’t mind me being blunt, I know constructive opinions are welcome here.
Not at all Edric, it is helpful, thank you.
It’s hard on mobile to find the right solution, as you don’t want to have too many at the top of the page, but if they’re at the bottom then they’re rather lost. I’ll probably stick with this for the moment, but the feedback is appreciated
Thanks Simon. Thinking out loud here. Maybe the ad can have a border? Something to make it clear that its not a photo part of the article?
Hmm, yes that might be good. Thanks, I’ll have a play around with it
I couldn’t agree more with MBB355 when he says “We should all aim to have a style that is distinctive enough to be personal without seeming contrived.” This is the essence of style.
Recent events have demanded that I drive a lot in London which means you spend most of the time in a traffic jam people watching.
My observations have left me appalled by the way people are dressing – both sexes. It’s becoming almost impossible to differentiate the normal citizen from the refuse collector. Frankly I hate it and thank God I lived out my youth in those halcyon days of the ‘60s/70s. If only we had more Ethan Wongs to make the world mote stylish !
Readers might be missing an important piece of cultural context regarding bucket hats: They’re nearly universal in parts of East Asia and the East Asian diaspora. I’m from East Asia and have traveled extensively throughout the region; I’ve seen bucket hats worn by style-conscious young Tokyoites and old Taiwanese who couldn’t care at all about style. In a part of the world where the summer sun is brutal, the bucket hat is both practical and versatile. The Panama hats menswear obsessives are enamored with cannot be carelessly stuffed into a bag or pocket like a bucket hat can. A Panama hat is at the same level of formality as a linen suit, and can be a little too smart for the more casual clothing people wear in summer.
Also, a linen suit with a Panama hat is at least as costumey as anything Ethan wears.
Good points, hadn’t thought about it from that perspective. My guess is that bucket hats have very different associations in Asia than in the US or UK.
I like his clothes and that his tailoring emphasises more his style than the highest quality of construction which is usually what i see on Permanent style. I could almost see myself bringing in some of the elements he uses.
I am glad to see Ethan given this platform! I have been following both of you for quite some time, and as a young professional, he is relatable in that he writes about what he’s wearing while hanging out with his friends, as well as shopping on a budget. E.g. He wrote extensively on how much he wanted a pair of color 8 Alden loafers, but had to save up for them for a long time. Permanent Style takes a different approach, more like journalists covering wine, meaning that price may be mentioned but it is merely peripheral and never an obstacle. I also really like this approach, but rarely find myself drinking 1982 vintages from Pomerol. I think Ethan may be part of the ”natural wine movement” of menswear, meaning that he makes it fun and realistic for regular (upper middle class) people to enjoy tailoring (spearheaded by the l’etiquette guys). In this casting, however, I guess the likes of Alexander Kraft, not Permanent Style, would play the role of the Wine Advocate and the old guard.
Simon,
I must say it’s about time! We forget how young Ethan is and at his age he already knows not only what he wants to wear but he can also articulate it in a way we never could in our early 20s.
Mate I wish i had that knowledge.
It’s awesome to see kids care about silhouette, tones, fabric and to wear it in a way that feels natural. Kudos to him and the guys on the style and direction podcast.
Love these feature articles keep them coming.
The amount of times a white shirt is the glue for an outfit. Easy way to style
This is an interesting series of articles, and it‘s clear that a lot of people on this list put a great amount of thought into their outfits.
I‘m torn if this is because of the forum? Clearly being portrait here is a great opportunity to share outfits that may be especially though through so to get the message across? Like a runway show really, which really don‘t exist so people dress exactly like that but rather to make a bold point that gets translated into reality later on?
In any case, an interesting read and already made a couple mental notes on some of Ethan‘s combinations I want to try myself as well. Even that bucket hat might work, but for all that is right, good and virtuous in this world: Burn those white socks.
Pretty catchy style, Ethan ?. It captures you perfectly. It’s not try-hard and comes across quite naturally capturing your essence. No more needs to be said.
Simon…another useful, thoughtful, and humanely presented article. It strikes me more that while what your friend Ethan is wearing is interesting…it is not as interesting as the care he has taken with what he is wearing. Perhaps we could agree that what defines part of a man is the care he takes; with how he acts; how he speaks; how he treats his fellow human beings…and yes, the respect he affords them by presenting an interesting and engaging presence to the world. I think that this last point may, in fact be, what your thoughtful article is really about…Michael from Connecticut
Good feature and some good ideas here. His IG is interesting. I looked up the blog and the podcast, and man, the blog-posts/episodes are loooonnngg. Ain’t no one got time for that!
Although it’s possible to be slightly quirky while still coming across as stylish (some even have a fancy Italian word for this – spezzatura), if you take it too far you either end up looking goofy or affected or both. And in my opinion, wearing a bucket hat with a sports coat crosses that line. Ethan looks positively goofy in that picture.
I like dabbling with the high-low look myself from time to time, but as Simon has pointed out in the past, high-low does not good work if the disparity in formality / style is too great. I wouldn’t wear a bucket hat with a sports jacket any more than I would wear a baseball cap with a sports jacket. I guess this is a subjective judgment call but it just looks off to me.
Also, although a bucket hat has practical benefits, the floppy brim on the bucket hat (in contrast to that of a baseball cap) looks neither stylish nor flattering. I might wear one on a safari or for a rainy hiking or fishing outing when practical considerations are paramount but not in a remotely urban setting and certainly not with a sports jacket.
R abbot I disagree with your critique on the bucket hat. The bucket hat is an unstructured hat, and as such it can be styled cohesively with unstructured or soft shouldered tailoring. However I will concede that it will never have the same gravitas as a hat with a structured crown.
Is anyone aware of a hat that is both foldable / collapsible and remotely stylish yet? Or at least not ugly? And that works in the heat? I’m going on a family vacation in the summer that will include a bit of sightseeing and it’s just not practical to carry around a hat box.
Assuming you don’t like baseball caps, the closest thing is probably a really soft straw hat, like this one at Trunk. However, I find it really hard to find one in that style that I like. And I don’t find I like that one that much.
This one from Sublime is a bit better, but has less of the shape of a normal hat – you can see it here on Jamie.
Ethans style definitely isn’t mine, but I do like his reasoning about using the things you like in tailoring even for your more casual outfits. Definitely a way to make more hard-wearing outfits more fun and feel more “you”.
Good point. I was also reading a good comment from someone else yesterday on this – which is about context.
Clothing and how it looks is all about context, and where Ethan lives, in his peer group, something like a bucket hat is completely anonymous, every day. It’s the tailoring that stands out, that is different and even rebellious.
This is very different from, say, a guy that works in a fairly smart office in London. Perhaps older, with more people wearing tailoring at least historically.
Just had a look at Ethan’s blog and Instagram. I love his style. Bags of flair and unafraid to try combinations that some might find a little out there – but great to see him experimenting. And he’s just 25!