The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

March 10th 2021

  This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-be...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

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I think that's fine - I'd certainly happily spend more on an overcoat than on shoes. However, that's in large part based on my experience of bespoke shoes, which has been patchy - see article here....

ShoesMarch 10th 2021

Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...

May 31st 2019

If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest time and energy in your ex...

Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...

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To be fair, my best results at changing shoe colour was spraying brown loake kempton with dark brown renovateur. Hence my suggestion. I dyed myself shoes 3 times, once shoes would head to bin, but got a new lease at life...

ShoesMay 31st 2019

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

February 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to ...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

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Hi Simon, thanks for sharing. You make an interesting point: “[Oxford] is more formal than a derby and goes with anything up to chinos and jeans.” Could you please tell how oxford shoes can be paired with jeans and c...

ShoesFebruary 15th 2017

Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues...

October 28th 2016

A style post today, after several product and profile pieces in recent weeks. To break it down into bullets: I love grey shirts, primarily with navy suits or jackets as an alternative to white and blue. It feels urban and modern The problem is, wit...

Wearing a grey linen shirt – or the virtues...

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The greys have generally been linen (for summer) and brushed cotton (for winter). Both this D'Avino one and my Simone Abbarchi winter one are from Sictess...

StyleOctober 28th 2016

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

April 27th 2016

A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad. First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmaker – was impr...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

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In the case of these shoes, yes it would have made them rather more casual. They were intended to be smarter than that. But in general, you're right I don't have medallions that often. I hadn't actually though about it b...

ShoesApril 27th 2016

Pattern making at Foster & Son

January 30th 2015

Emma (Lakin), at Foster & Son in London, is creating the pattern for my first pair of bespoke shoes with them – mid-brown Oxfords. Folding paper onto the last and marking it is the most popular method of doing this. One alternati...

Pattern making at Foster & Son

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Mine are ready for try on this spring. I too selected a mid-brown oxford, though I requested a dainite sole for wet weather....

ShoesJanuary 30th 2015

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Last-making

June 13th 2014

This is Jon Spencer, last maker at Foster & Son, making up the last for my first pair of bespoke shoes from the team. The black, Oxford whole-cuts will have the classic ‘West End’ Foster’s toe shape, slightly elongated and...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Last-making

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They did. The scanner didn't really work but they had some great designs. Unfortunately went of of business after their backers pulled out. Lutwyche bought the shop and still carries some of the English shoes...

ShoesJune 13th 2014

Foster & Son bespoke shoe samples

May 21st 2014

Foster & Son is one of the great names of British bespoke shoemaking. In recent years, that reputation was largely founded on master lastmaker Terry Moore. I only got to know Foster’s relatively recently, after Terry retired. Changes of...

Foster & Son bespoke shoe samples

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Putting more material in is always going to hard, as you're relying on the amount of inlay (excess cloth). A small adjustment would be ok from that point of view and in terms of the aesthetic, however...

ShoesMay 21st 2014

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

March 22nd 2013

This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and shoe collecting, and desc...

Permanent Style in Free & Easy magazine

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John you wouldn't be so sceptical and ignorant in your reproach if you judged by the content of the magazine. It's one of the best menswear magazines out there in my opinion, much more relevant than the shit they sell in...

ShoesMarch 22nd 2013