The dark shirt

August 26th 2019

Wearing a dark shirt with a tie is an easy style to get wrong, I think. It used to be quite widespread in the 1990s: dark maroon or navy shirts with a strongly coloured tie. It seemed to be worn by a certain kind of salesman. If done right, though...

The dark shirt

Match in comments:
Dark blue, but no not as strong as some dark shirts...

SuitsAugust 26th 2019

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

June 14th 2019

  Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That̵...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

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I really like this style...

SuitsJune 14th 2019

Best Artisan of 2018: Musella Dembech (Or, rating...

February 2nd 2018

Best Artisan of the Year: Musella Dembech This award, readers may remember, is the only one of the Permanent Style Awards that will be decided purely by me. The overlap of readers that have used a bespoke artisan in 2017 is simply not enough, in my...

Best Artisan of 2018: Musella Dembech (Or, rating...

Match in comments:
Musella Dembech is surely one of the best young Italian tailors. Beautiful clean cut. We wish him the best. Take care Mirko...

February 2nd 2018

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit ̵...

October 20th 2017

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. [Read my first post, with the background on Musella Dembech and its style, h...

Musella Dembech double-breasted cotton suit ̵...

Match in comments:
Hey Luke, Italian cottons, and this is a little lighter too, will be softer. They also soften with washing/cleaning, but English ones may well be denser and not do so as much. It's not standard practice to do that on cot...

SuitsOctober 20th 2017

Musella Dembech: Growth at the ‘soft Milane...

October 2nd 2017

It doesn’t feel like over three years since I covered Musella Dembech, but apparently it is. Of course, there was the Young Tailors Symposium in the middle of that, which featured Gianfrancesco Musella (above), but I haven’t written anyt...

Musella Dembech: Growth at the ‘soft Milane...

Match in comments:
@Hristo. Agree 100%. Very sage advice. All guys starting off their bespoke journey should heed these words to avoid costly mistakes. Start with a single commission. Your tastes and style will evolve. Go slow ....

SuitsOctober 2nd 2017

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

November 18th 2016

Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...

Video: The Young Tailors Symposium

Match in comments:
Very well done. I think the videos on this site are a nice extra touch. It adds extra value and experience to hear from the personal side of tailoring, which I think is a very wirthwhile side to this industry. Luxury ite...

Jackets - SuitsNovember 18th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

June 21st 2016

Our Young Tailors Symposium last week in Florence - in the beautiful Stefano Bemer atelier - threw up some really interesting areas of discussion. The six tailors all had rather different backgrounds: some trained in completely different fields befo...

The Young Tailors Symposium – discussion

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It varies, but largely yes...

June 21st 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on th...

June 20th 2016

Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes One of the nicest things about the Young Tailors Symposium last week was the fact we managed to arrange a film - something that will record for the hundreds of thousands of you what we discussed and enjoyed. We...

The Young Tailors Symposium – filming on th...

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Hopefully September, but there's been a delay on production over August...

June 20th 2016

Young tailors take over Instagram!

May 30th 2016

This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pieces they are making and the t...

Young tailors take over Instagram!

This week the young tailors featuring in our Symposium at Pitti will be taking over my Instagram account. Every day, a different one of the six tailors from England, Italy, Hong Kong and Korea will post images of the pie...

May 30th 2016

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

May 17th 2016

Every Pitti Uomo for the past two years, we have held an event to bring people together with a unique group of the finest craftsmen in the world. For the next instalment, we will be returning to last summer's focus: bespoke tailoring. But whereas t...

The Young Tailors Symposium at Pitti Uomo

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No, it's not really about craft - it's a trade show, where people come to see and buy product. And then there are the peacocks, who are about style (in theory) not craft....

May 17th 2016

Musella Dembech – bespoke at home

August 20th 2014

While in Milan earlier in the year I had a chance to catch up with Gianfrancesco Musella-Dembech, whose family run a small bespoke operation in Milan. Mother, father and son all work in the same room, which is also part of their appartment. Althoug...

Musella Dembech – bespoke at home

Match in comments:
Hey - you just need to sew on the spot a couple of times, go through the button 6-8 times, and then wind a few times around the shank before finishing by putting the needle through the shank. If you're afraid of trying, ...

August 20th 2014