BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

Read MoreFeb 18th 2016

  One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear.Although most cutters and tailors aren't actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke - so the fit is good - ...

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

  One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear.Although most cutters and tailors aren't actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke - so the fit is good - ...

Feb 18th 2016

Why I don't wear braces

Read MoreAug 24th 2016

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to a man’s trousers. The high-waisted style gives him longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser top and the jacket’s w...

Why I don't wear braces

Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to a man’s trousers. The high-waisted style gives him longer legs and stops any shirt puffing out between trouser top and the jacket’s w...

Aug 24th 2016

The perfect wedding suit

Read MoreMay 22nd 2017

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver's wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman's outfit. First, the colour. Pale grey is suitably serious...

The perfect wedding suit

It is the time of year for wedding preparations, so I thought I'd take the opportunity to share images of my friend Oliver's wedding last year. He is wearing probably my favourite groomsman's outfit. First, the colour. Pale grey is suitably serious...

May 22nd 2017

Am I effeminate? Am I vain? Reader questions on style and its context

Read MoreDec 13th 2017

It’s taken a while to get to these remaining questions from our ‘You are the interviewer’ post (thanks again for those - some great questions in there). Hopefully I’ll be able to get through them all over the Christmas break. Today, we’...

Am I effeminate? Am I vain? Reader questions on style and its context

It’s taken a while to get to these remaining questions from our ‘You are the interviewer’ post (thanks again for those - some great questions in there). Hopefully I’ll be able to get through them all over the Christmas break. Today, we’...

Dec 13th 2017

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

Read MoreApr 18th 2018

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separate, so not...

Filling the gaps: Six pairs of odd trousers

If shirts are the items in a man’s wardrobe where he wants most predictability and consistency, then trousers are undoubtedly second. In that spirit, over the past year I have regularly commissioned odd trousers (‘odd’ as in separate, so not...

Apr 18th 2018

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

Read MoreJun 28th 2019

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know everyone is thinking about what ...

The Wedding Style Guide: It’s not about you

One of the lovely things about the questions and comments we get on Permanent Style is the trends they highlight. In the past two weeks there have been dozens of questions on old posts about wedding attire. So I know everyone is thinking about what ...

Jun 28th 2019

Clothes for a wedding

Read MoreAug 29th 2014

  The simplicity of classic wedding attire - in colour, in pattern, in tone - is a reflection of respect  for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but while I can see the argument for relaxing c...

Clothes for a wedding

  The simplicity of classic wedding attire - in colour, in pattern, in tone - is a reflection of respect  for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained; but while I can see the argument for relaxing c...

Result only found in commentsAug 29th 2014

How many tailors do you need?

Read MoreFeb 23rd 2015

A few weeks ago, a reader made the point that all my adventures with bespoke tailors could give the impression that this is the optimum way to build a wardrobe. That's certainly not the case.The process of bespoke tailoring is about building a relati...

How many tailors do you need?

A few weeks ago, a reader made the point that all my adventures with bespoke tailors could give the impression that this is the optimum way to build a wardrobe. That's certainly not the case.The process of bespoke tailoring is about building a relati...

Result only found in commentsFeb 23rd 2015

In front of the Barbour beacon

Read MoreMar 2nd 2015

 Last week three of us visited the Barbour factory in South Shields, in the name of a new book on British heritage brands. Given we were researching the stories behind the companies, it was natural to stay next to the lighthouse that was the ear...

In front of the Barbour beacon

 Last week three of us visited the Barbour factory in South Shields, in the name of a new book on British heritage brands. Given we were researching the stories behind the companies, it was natural to stay next to the lighthouse that was the ear...

Result only found in commentsMar 2nd 2015

Seven levels of formality

Read MoreMay 4th 2017

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

Seven levels of formality

Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well.  Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...

Result only found in commentsMay 4th 2017

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-wear tailoring

Read MoreJul 10th 2017

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan trous...

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to-wear tailoring

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan trous...

Result only found in commentsJul 10th 2017

P Johnson tailoring - Review

Read MoreAug 9th 2017

As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in So...

P Johnson tailoring - Review

As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in So...

Result only found in commentsAug 9th 2017

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

Read MoreJan 20th 2020

This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats, and at cut, in hopefully comprehensive detail.  Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details - including cuffs/turn-ups, belts ...

Suit style 9: Trouser cuffs, belts and tabs

This is the third article in the Suit Style series dedicated to trousers. We previously looked at pleats, and at cut, in hopefully comprehensive detail.  Here we’ll aim to cover off the remaining style details - including cuffs/turn-ups, belts ...

Result only found in commentsJan 20th 2020

How my jacket style has changed

Read MoreNov 12th 2021

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

How my jacket style has changed

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

Result only found in commentsNov 12th 2021

The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket

Read MoreApr 29th 2022

A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...

The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket

A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned.  I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...

Result only found in commentsApr 29th 2022