Removable fur lining - from Yves Salomon
This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...
Removable fur lining - from Yves Salomon
This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped. It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the world. Based in Paris, it makes c...
Yves Salomon: re-using, remodelling fur
Following our discussion before Christmas about waste in the clothing industry, I was interested to learn about the remodelling and re-use of fur at Yves Salomon. Yves Salomon is one of the best fur workshops in the world. Based in Paris, it makes c...
Transforming ends, scraps and waste: Yves Salomon raincoat liner
How far is it possible to make a coat lining with shreds, off-cuts and otherwise wasted pieces of fur? When I made a lining for my M65 field jacket two years ago, the thing that attracted me most was the idea of re-using fur that would otherwise go t...
Transforming ends, scraps and waste: Yves Salomon raincoat liner
How far is it possible to make a coat lining with shreds, off-cuts and otherwise wasted pieces of fur? When I made a lining for my M65 field jacket two years ago, the thing that attracted me most was the idea of re-using fur that would otherwise go t...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. It was bitter...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. It was bitter...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from readers,...
My favourite clothes ever: Awards 2022
I have to say, I was really pleased with the reaction to this year’s PS Awards, which were set out here two weeks ago. It’s always nerve-wracking changing the format of a popular series, but after almost 1000 product recommendations from readers,...
Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability
We recently published an article looking in depth at the sustainability of luxury, bespoke menswear, which seemed to go down well. So here is the second part of that interview, with American writer Alden Wicker. In it we specifically focus on fur, wh...
Fur clothing: Ethics and sustainability
We recently published an article looking in depth at the sustainability of luxury, bespoke menswear, which seemed to go down well. So here is the second part of that interview, with American writer Alden Wicker. In it we specifically focus on fur, wh...
Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni
Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...
Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni
Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recommendations for a while, so I ca...
Clothing Resources: Places to clean, alter and repair
One of the most frequent questions I get asked on the site is where I would recommend for getting suits altered - or knitwear repaired, or shoes resoled. I’ve been meaning to create a single page with all these recommendations for a while, so I ca...
The guide to overcoating cloths
When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As with anyt...
The guide to overcoating cloths
When selecting a cloth for an overcoat, what should you look for? This might seem like a pretty easy question: you want warmth. That’s what an overcoat is for. But how much warmth, and where it comes from, are not straightforward. As with anyt...
Vibram resoling: Rescuing my ‘grail’ Nike ACG hiking boots
By Tony Sylvester. I am sure you too have a full and eclectic ‘Saved Searches’ section on your eBay app. Mine includes everything from rare Barbour jackets to Finnish glassware; old Polo coats to Georgian jewellery. Some are comedic reminders of ...
Vibram resoling: Rescuing my ‘grail’ Nike ACG hiking boots
By Tony Sylvester. I am sure you too have a full and eclectic ‘Saved Searches’ section on your eBay app. Mine includes everything from rare Barbour jackets to Finnish glassware; old Polo coats to Georgian jewellery. Some are comedic reminders of ...
Paris: A menswear shopping guide - 2024 update
Quite a lot has changed in the five years since we last updated this Paris shopping guide (and yes, I know just as much as changed elsewhere - we will also update the others!). Kenjiro Suzuki has left, the Viaduc des Arts has drifted, and the ex...
Paris: A menswear shopping guide - 2024 update
Quite a lot has changed in the five years since we last updated this Paris shopping guide (and yes, I know just as much as changed elsewhere - we will also update the others!). Kenjiro Suzuki has left, the Viaduc des Arts has drifted, and the ex...
Are you a menswear snob?
By Manish Puri Forgive me for starting with such a blunt question. I know that, in common parlance, ‘snob’ is a pejorative term. However, when it comes to matters of dressing, it’s worth recalling the words of Yves Saint Laurent who said, “...
Are you a menswear snob?
By Manish Puri Forgive me for starting with such a blunt question. I know that, in common parlance, ‘snob’ is a pejorative term. However, when it comes to matters of dressing, it’s worth recalling the words of Yves Saint Laurent who said, “...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual jacket
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual jacket
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
The reputation of Smith & Co
Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier than the...
The reputation of Smith & Co
Following on from my note last week on the history of W Bill, here’s some information gleaned on the history of Smith Woollens. For many, including my tailor, Smith’s is a brand they swear by. Worsteds that are often a little bit pricier than the...
Sharp suits launch event
Last night saw the launch of Sharp Suits by Eric Musgrave, at the Richard James store on Savile Row (as well as a parallel event at Norton & Sons across the road exhibiting the new E Tautz line for family and friends). Photos of the launch are below,...
Sharp suits launch event
Last night saw the launch of Sharp Suits by Eric Musgrave, at the Richard James store on Savile Row (as well as a parallel event at Norton & Sons across the road exhibiting the new E Tautz line for family and friends). Photos of the launch are below,...
New Berluti line: Pierre
Every few of years Berluti comes out with a new line. In 2004, Olga III; in 2006, Demesures; this year it's Pierre. I have to say it's a lot more appealing to my tastes than some previous offerings. A very slim, classic line, it was inspired by model...
New Berluti line: Pierre
Every few of years Berluti comes out with a new line. In 2004, Olga III; in 2006, Demesures; this year it's Pierre. I have to say it's a lot more appealing to my tastes than some previous offerings. A very slim, classic line, it was inspired by model...
The contradiction of wedding dress
Many of those attending a wedding this summer will feel they should have some sort of summery outfit, a linen suit perhaps, or at least something sporty in pale grey. Those who turn up in their dark blue business suit will probably feel a little unde...
The contradiction of wedding dress
Many of those attending a wedding this summer will feel they should have some sort of summery outfit, a linen suit perhaps, or at least something sporty in pale grey. Those who turn up in their dark blue business suit will probably feel a little unde...
The 1-6 suit rating system
My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers - perhaps because he's not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees all sides of the industry, but rarely talks...
The 1-6 suit rating system
My interview with Jonathan Clay last week went down well with readers - perhaps because he's not the kind of person that would normally be interviewed. As the supplier of Italian ready-made suits, he sees all sides of the industry, but rarely talks...
London: A sartorial city guide
I've had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I'll get in trouble...
London: A sartorial city guide
I've had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I'll get in trouble...
Lavabre Cadet glove maker, Paris-Millau
It is rare these days that I cover someone for the first time who is genuinely a step above their peers. Yet such is the case with Lavabre Cadet. I had known of the French glove maker for several years, but never met and talked to them in pers...
Lavabre Cadet glove maker, Paris-Millau
It is rare these days that I cover someone for the first time who is genuinely a step above their peers. Yet such is the case with Lavabre Cadet. I had known of the French glove maker for several years, but never met and talked to them in pers...
The fashions of classic menswear
Although we sartorial enthusiasts aspire to style that lasts decades, not seasons, I think it is important to recognise the fashions we still follow. While we may shun band T-shirts or ugly trainers, we are still strongly influenced by our peers ...
The fashions of classic menswear
Although we sartorial enthusiasts aspire to style that lasts decades, not seasons, I think it is important to recognise the fashions we still follow. While we may shun band T-shirts or ugly trainers, we are still strongly influenced by our peers ...
Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London
Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been short-sighted from a young age, I’...
Maison Bonnet bespoke glasses: The craft in London
Maison Bonnet was one of the few world-renowned menswear makers I hadn’t tried until recently. So it has been great to get to know Franck and the team, since they opened a shop in Mayfair last year. Having been short-sighted from a young age, I’...
The unexpected inspiration of Ralph Lauren womenswear
Something that I find often surprises readers is how much the brands they admire are influenced by womenswear. It’s a topic we discussed briefly with Saman Amel last year, with Dag and Saman talking about old collections that inspired them, my pe...
The unexpected inspiration of Ralph Lauren womenswear
Something that I find often surprises readers is how much the brands they admire are influenced by womenswear. It’s a topic we discussed briefly with Saman Amel last year, with Dag and Saman talking about old collections that inspired them, my pe...
Reader Profile: Andrew
This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the sec...
Reader Profile: Andrew
This is the third in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. And the sec...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...