How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

Read MoreFeb 21st 2018

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

Feb 21st 2018

My shirt collars

Read MoreJan 27th 2021

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars, a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear.  In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly...

My shirt collars

  When we published our recent article on the types and styles of shirt collars, a reader requested a follow-up piece on the precise dimensions of what I wear.  In fact, this has come up a few times over the years, particularly...

Jan 27th 2021

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket - Review

Read MoreJul 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories.  Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket - Review

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories.  Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Jul 24th 2020

The mock neck

Read MoreNov 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck.  It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous so quickly....

The mock neck

I’m not sure about the mock neck.  It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous so quickly....

Nov 20th 2020

Removable fur lining - from Yves Salomon

Read MoreDec 27th 2019

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Removable fur lining - from Yves Salomon

This fur lining for my vintage field jacket - originally mentioned in January - has finally seen some active wear in recent weeks, as the temperature has dropped.  It was cut, made and fixed into the jacket by fur specialists Yves Salomon, using sec...

Dec 27th 2019

Five good ready-made suits under £1000

Read MoreAug 16th 2023

By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might live h...

Five good ready-made suits under £1000

By Manish Puri The attention of Permanent Style has always been - and will continue to remain - trained upon the highest quality garments in the world. However, there are barriers to accessing the very best – especially with suits. You might live h...

Aug 16th 2023

Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learning how to wear it

Read MoreJun 19th 2023

In my continued exploration of all things the colour of mourning, I commissioned this black-corduroy suit from Pommella (trousers) and Zizolfi (jacket) last year.  The logic seemed sound: if black is going to work in tailoring, I’d consistently fo...

Black corduroy suit from Zizolfi/Pommella: Learning how to wear it

In my continued exploration of all things the colour of mourning, I commissioned this black-corduroy suit from Pommella (trousers) and Zizolfi (jacket) last year.  The logic seemed sound: if black is going to work in tailoring, I’d consistently fo...

Jun 19th 2023

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

Read MoreNov 10th 2023

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have a bi...

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have a bi...

Nov 10th 2023

Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour: Review

Read MoreSep 6th 2023

There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first.  This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...

Brown chalkstripe suit from Fred Nieddu/Taillour: Review

There are two parts to this piece: one, Fred; two, chalkstripes. Given it's a review, let's do the first one first.  This is the first piece of tailoring Fred Nieddu has made for me, having previously made a more unusual piece, a belted suede jacket...

Sep 6th 2023

The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore 

Read MoreOct 11th 2023

Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material.  For those that don’t know, Solaro was invented...

The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore 

Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material.  For those that don’t know, Solaro was invented...

Oct 11th 2023

Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review

Read MoreNov 18th 2020

This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit.  The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...

Benson & Clegg flannel suit: Review

This is the kind of suit that makes you glad you're wearing a suit.  The kind you look forward to wearing, as a change to the floppy casual home stuff you've been in too much recently. Why? Because of the structure, the shoulder and to a lesser exte...

Nov 18th 2020

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Read MoreMay 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. How many buttons should I have on a single-breasted jacket? Just as hard a...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. How many buttons should I have on a single-breasted jacket? Just as hard a...

May 27th 2016

Final review: A Suit That Fits

Read MoreApr 29th 2009

When you collect your new suit from A Suit That Fits, five to six weeks after the fitting, the staff suggests a thorough examination of the fit. But I have always found that impossible to know until it has been worn on three or four different occasio...

Final review: A Suit That Fits

When you collect your new suit from A Suit That Fits, five to six weeks after the fitting, the staff suggests a thorough examination of the fit. But I have always found that impossible to know until it has been worn on three or four different occasio...

Apr 29th 2009

Review: A Suit That Fits 2

Read MoreMar 15th 2009

I was a little anxious today, going with my colleague to pick up his suit from A Suit That Fits. Knowing I was going to review the result; knowing that they knew I was going to review the result. Overall, though, the impression was very positive. Muc...

Review: A Suit That Fits 2

I was a little anxious today, going with my colleague to pick up his suit from A Suit That Fits. Knowing I was going to review the result; knowing that they knew I was going to review the result. Overall, though, the impression was very positive. Muc...

Mar 15th 2009

Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits

Read MoreFeb 27th 2009

It is always rewarding to get a look behind the scenes of a company. Nothing beats it for an insight into the philosophy, working practices and dedication to detail present in the production process. I was fortunate enough to peek behind the scenes a...

Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits

It is always rewarding to get a look behind the scenes of a company. Nothing beats it for an insight into the philosophy, working practices and dedication to detail present in the production process. I was fortunate enough to peek behind the scenes a...

Feb 27th 2009

The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whitcomb, Saman Amel and The Armoury

Read MoreJan 27th 2020

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat.  As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility.  I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the aw...

The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whitcomb, Saman Amel and The Armoury

Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat.  As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility.  I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the aw...

Jan 27th 2020

PS shirts available to try in Prologue, Stefano Bemer, and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Read MoreMay 21st 2019

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts and polo shirts. Last year, S...

PS shirts available to try in Prologue, Stefano Bemer, and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury

Despite the inquiries readers often make during the pop-up, we have no plans to open a permanent shop. However, we have started working with a few friends around the world to make it easier to try on the various shirts and polo shirts. Last year, S...

May 21st 2019

If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection

Read MoreApr 29th 2019

These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here.  When you first sta...

If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection

These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here.  When you first sta...

Apr 29th 2019

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

Read MoreJun 1st 2020

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by...

Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review

This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by...

Jun 1st 2020

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

Read MoreAug 10th 2018

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue to be added to over the next...

Suit Style 5: Selecting colour and pattern

This is part of a long-running series of articles known as the Guide to Suit Style, covering everything from the number of buttons on a suit to the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke.    It will continue to be added to over the next...

Aug 10th 2018

How to buy my first bespoke suit - reader question

Read MoreFeb 3rd 2014

Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one's life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I'm seeking your advi...

How to buy my first bespoke suit - reader question

Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one's life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I'm seeking your advi...

Feb 3rd 2014

A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question

Read MoreOct 3rd 2012

Dear Simon,??I hope that you don't mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I need to ask someone who knows about style, and you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable on the subject.??...

A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question

Dear Simon,??I hope that you don't mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I need to ask someone who knows about style, and you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable on the subject.??...

Oct 3rd 2012

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJun 8th 2018

  A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Richard Ande...

Henry Poole double-breasted suit: Style Breakdown

  A nice thing about our Finest Tailors series is that, as we add more tailors to it, each becomes a reference for the next, making comparisons easier. This Henry Poole suit, then, makes an interesting comparison to the Richard Ande...

Jun 8th 2018

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

Read MoreJul 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

Jul 20th 2016

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Read MoreAug 8th 2018

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...

Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...

Aug 8th 2018