Green cotton trousers Calvo de Mora2

 
Green cotton trousers – the second part of the three-part commission from Spanish tailors Calvo de Mora. A lovely soft green moleskin from Scabal (Ascona, winter cotton, 501003) with a slightly longer nap.

Non-English cloth merchants tend towards the lighter and softer, often sacrificing body and drape, and that’s exactly what these are. Then again, moleskins rarely retain much of a line, and these are very comfortable. 

Green trousers, from olive to forest, work well with all sorts of jackets – navy, grey, brown. And of course are a lovely foil to a highly polished brown shoe. 
  

Green cotton trousers Calvo de Mora 
The fit from Calvo de Mora is as good as it gets for a flat-fronted cotton trouser, particularly given how heavily I use the pockets (with my hands, not accessories). Strap and buckle nicely done, and placed on the seam where I like them.

The only odd thing about the make is that Calvo uses synthetics (like a jacket lining) for the pocket bag, which I dislike. You don’t want a cold and slippery material in a pocket – it should be warm and robust.

Photos taken in Al Bazar in Milan, with the lovely Gianpaolo (below) attempting to photobomb the shot.

Dark-brown bespoke Oxfords from Cleverley; pale grey shirt from Luca Avitabile; charcoal wool tie from Panta Clothing
 

Gianpaolo Al Bazar

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Anonymous

On the issue of pockets, what can we store and where? I often dont take out a briefcase but have keys, phone and wallet. is this too much?

Bradley

Fabulous green Simon and what a lucious looking fabric.
I am a little surpised they have a rear pocket – is this a usual request and if so why? I find such pockets break the length at the rear but then it perhaps works on the slimmer and taller figure such as yourself?
Bradley

Colonel Sahib

Hi Simon very nice indeed. Would it work as a suit?

Freddy

Simon. Is it the photo, or are they lower in the front than the back!
Look a bit loose.
Nice colour though. F

JA

Agree 100% with Simon Crompton. The best fitting pants I’ve ever tried in this respect are tailored by Jacob Cohen (yes, the – wonderful – jeans manufacturer who happens to tailor also cotton pants out of this world in terms of fit and confort) and they all have that signature asymmetric waistband, and even more pronounced. In their factory, they even have a machine designed specifically for doing just that. Horizontal waistband is a no go.

G

Simon
Lovely trousers. I was wondering if there is a reason that you don’t post prices? I know it is rather gauche to broadcast how much you are spending on clothes, but for readers that need introductions to tailors, or are contemplating pieces, prices do help quite a lot!
G

Ken Y

“Attempting to photobomb” I would say he’s been extremely successful! Those are very nice trousers Simon, I have a pair in a similar cloth from Loro Piana, they are probably my most versitile Autumn/Winter trousers. I have invested in a few bespoke trousers but to be honest with places like A+S haberdashery I am not sure it is aways necessary, I would be interested in your view.

Jerrell

Hi Simon,

More or less formal – green cords or green moleskin?

Mac

Thinking man’s jeans. Cords, moleskins, cotton chinos. No crease. So much smarter (and original) than jeans.

There’s a certain age too when jeans just don’t look right anymore. Maybe about 40 – 50? I love seeing cool teens in cotton chinos. Look around the tube carriage on a weekend. Nearly everyone is wearing the same boring blue jeans. I’m as guilty as anyone and am currently banishing them from my wardrobe!

It’s a complete fallacy to say jeans are comfortable. The poor fit and all that double stitching…..ouch!

Steadypace

What weight is the cloth? And what weight do you generally recommend for cotton trousers?

George

Simon
I am thinking about getting a jacket or two made. What do you think of double breasted, but with 1 x 1 button placement as it were? Would this be able to work for either black tie or for a jacket? In my head it looks rather rakish but obviously it could just look stupid and be impractical….

Jerrell

Thanks for this Simon.

Excuse me if covered elsewhere – but for odd trouser colour choice after green, where does dark red fall? A close, logical choice or in that mish mash of colours that include burnt orange, purple (cords), salmon etc etc?

Joseph

Hey Simon! Just wanted to pop by and say that while you’re a huge inspiration and really knowledgeable, I’ve been trawling the comments for quite some time and it would seem that you’re also really patient and polite in your replies. That’s really great to see a(absolutely fantastic, in fact!) and it makes me extra glad to be a reader of this site. Cheers!

JoeFromTexas

I think every #menswear photo needs a photobomb of the sort seen here.

Ben

How many wears have these trousers had?

The fit seems mediocre to me. The pockets, as you recognize, flare quite a bit and the upper legs can be more tapered. Given that cotton drapes poorly and is more prone to wrinkling, I prefer a slimmer cut than my ideal for wool trousers.

Jim

Look great! Can you tell me about the front closure? Extended tab, but is it a clasp? Button fly? What are your preferences in this area?

Simone

Hi Simon,

I was wondering how you are washing those trousers. I had a pair of moleskin made by Carbone in Rome and I wonder if I can wash them in the washing machine or by hand to avoid the dreaded dry cleaning.
Thanks

Ralf

Dear Simon, I always feel very comfortable selecting cloth/fabrics for formal/ business wear. But I am having such a hard time find premium material for casual wear. E.g. for my sailing activities I would love to have some bespoke Chinos. Do you have a recommendation for a maker of high end (in terms of grip and feel) yet sturdy (for wear and tear, sun, salt water etc.) Chino cloth? Many thanks … and very inspiring website indeed!!!

Ajay

Simon,

Excellent web site. Long time reader here, but first time poster.

Some questions about trousers and trouser fabrics:

1) Going to have some trousers made for business use. Thinking about the fabrics for 4-seasons use. With regards to the various Italian and English fabric mills (Loro Piana and so on), do you rank them in any particular way in terms of the top 5 best for this kind of fabric and why? Or just go with a good mill brand and a fabric I like?

2) How do you feel about side tabs on trousers with dress shirt but sans jacket, for the office context?

Thanks!
Ajay

Daud Nicodemus Daud

If i want that trouser how could I got…??!!

Anonymous

Do you remember the price of these trousers Simon?

Is drape defined by the structure/weight of the cloth, how smooth it falls, and whether or not it is prone to wrinkles?

Anonymous

I meant to ask what you mean when something has drape or has no drape. Thanks

Anonymous

What kind of buttons are these, Simon? And what color?

Do you prefer hooks or buttons inside of your trousers and why? Can you also explain the typical style of waistband you prefer with side adjusters (and why)? Thanks~

Anonymous

Have you ever tried tabs inside the trouser? They connect to to the waist (usually with buttons) and hold up the pant, in addition to side adjusters. Are tabs really necessary if you already have side adjusters?

I have found them quite handy but it’s bothersome to remove your trousers…

Anonymous

Simon how would you describe the kind of trouser leg you prefer? Is there a trouser you commissioned previously on the site which would illustrate this?

Anonymous

Hi Simon — Mahesh mentioned that W&S only does side adjusters on the middle of the waistband, instead of completely above it. Reason being that adjusters above the waistband are not as effective as having it in the middle. Is this tailoring aspect true? I see quite a few bespoke tailors do side adjusters above the waistband.

Anonymous

Do you remember the trouser weight? Why do you like the side tabs breaking the waistband instead of just above it? If you are shorter, is there an advantage to either look?

Anonymous

Any particular reason why you didn’t get turn-ups on these, since these trousers are more casual? Turn-ups can look quite nice on more formal trousers as well, I find. But i’m not sure why…?

Anonymous

Hi Simon, by chance have you taken a look at Huddersfield Fine Worsted Flannel II? I see a 14/15 oz greenish grey swatch and was wondering how the color compares to your Caccioppoli green flannels. The Huddersfield almost passes for grey and it may look a bit too dark but there’s definitely some green. And it’s English!

Anonymous

Thanks for the material tip. It says 100% wool flannel. In that case do I assume that it is woolen and not worsted? The brand is called Huddersfield Fine Worsteds which makes it a bit confusing.

The link is here and it doesn’t designate whether the 51004… series are woolen or worsted:

https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/47