White jeans: how to buy, wash and wear
April 7th 2021White jeans are a classic example of menswear that has been damaged unreasonably by association. Unfortunately, they carry connotations of flash Mediterranean men, wearing their white jeans with a shirt unbuttoned to the navel. Or skintight ripped ...
Outfits I got wrong
February 19th 2021Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
August 19th 2020Gieves & Hawkes has rarely had a distinct house style in recent decades. Although historically a military and naval outfitter, and making its suits with a similar amount of structure and strength, the cut has varied with cutters. Kathryn Sa...
Gieves & Hawkes linen suit: Style Breakdown
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Hey there, I would look at the bunches of W Bill, Brisbane Moss, Holland & Sherry and any other British mill that offers Irish linen. If you can't find a dark enough navy there, try and find someone that can source from ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
August 5th 2020A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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I would say that the greater risk is the jacket appears a little showy or dressy with mother of pearl. It can be nice, but horn is usually better and you can have more flecks and contrast, or a slightly lighter shade, if...
My Summer shoes
July 29th 2020Shoes can be one of the trickiest areas for clothing in the summer. Unless we require a jacket, it’s pretty simple to wear a well-cut polo shirt on top and drapey linen trousers on the bottom, and stay cool. But shoes are always required, and...
My Summer shoes
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Between the two shoes in a pair? I wouldn't have said that was that normal, no...
How to wear a cream jacket
June 24th 2020A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and illustrates, three ways I&am...
How to wear a cream jacket
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I didn't, because I find it really hard to find pink linens I like to be honest - they're all too strong, too red or sugary a pink colour. I think you want something fairly faint most of the time, either solid or stripe...
Nicola Cornacchia grey summer suit: Review
June 1st 2020This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it. I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; a...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
May 1st 2020(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapolitan tailo...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
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This is honestly one of your best suits, it cannot be said that this is better than your Solito, Dalucore, or Ciardi, they're all great, each one has a slight variety, to those saying it is too short this or that, that i...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
March 4th 2020There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
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Wool. Shetland is a type of wool (of sheep)...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
February 14th 2020Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
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Is it prince William wear Thom Sweeney bespoke suit? Or Richard James?...
Wearing black
January 22nd 2020Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...
Wearing black
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I don't I'm afraid Shem - I've tried slippers like that in black suede and they stand out as fairly unusual. Black calf is easier...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
November 25th 2019I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
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I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
October 25th 2019Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the drape cut that A&...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
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Thanks so much for the very valuable advice, Simon!...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from E...
September 20th 2019Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out – and wears quicker when damp). So I was b...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from E...
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Hard to assess remotely, but it sounds to me like you just need a size up Jonathan....
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
August 5th 2019Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
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Thanks, greatly helpful....
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
July 17th 2019This dark, muted green linen was a risk. I had never had anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I think it’s worked out very well. I’m pleased as well as relieved. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it l...
Gieves & Hawkes bespoke linen suit: Review
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I enjoy wearing it still Aaron, but it's more of an exceptional suit rather than an every day one, and not the easiest to break up either...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
June 14th 2019Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That’s down la...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
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Thank you for your response...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
May 10th 2019Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
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I wouldn't say it would be that versatile, but it is nice, some real character in that blue - a little like an airforce blue flannel, but a touch subtler even than that I think you'll find it great with white and navy, b...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
April 19th 2019Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...
A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown
April 1st 2019This outfit, worn on the last Saturday of our pop-up shop, is a good illustration of the kind of clothing that excites me at the moment. It could be defined, perhaps, as casual but luxurious, muted but refined. Casual, in that there’s no jacke...
A Connolly tonal outfit: cream, grey and brown
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I think that sounds very nice, yes. I would say it would be great to have a similar piece to take to the tailor for inspiration, as it rarely works out perfectly if you ask them to try and design something with just a fe...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
March 8th 2019In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a Neapolitan suit...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
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I would ask Rubinacci to do it perhaps, yes, but not another tailor I don't think. With Rubinacci I would also be a little cautious as what they produce does seem to vary a bit without necessarily the knowledge there to ...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
February 6th 2019In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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Sure. When I say the shoulders are still strong I mean: - There is a little bit of padding in the shoulders, so they still make a firm straight line - There is a little bit of roping, so the shoulder line continues into ...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
December 24th 2018The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
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Not enough cloth... I've changed a lot!...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Brea...
November 26th 2018Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Brea...
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I didn't request it specifically, but at the fitting it looked a little short so we pushed it down a bit. Bear in mind people vary in their proportions as well as height, so I might just have a longer torso than you...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
November 16th 2018Blackhorse Lane Ateliers (BLA) opened their first store a couple of months ago, and I’ve been meaning to write about it since. Partly because it means customers can see the full range of BLA jeans, and try them on in person (always particularl...
The Blackhorse Lane haberdashery
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after buying 1 blackhorse lane jeans and a pair of Oni denim and going down the rabbit hole for about 2 weeks... for jeans durability sweet spot seems to be 15-20 Oz. anything less "rubs out" quicker, anything more "brea...
