Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style bre...
August 24th 2018Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accentuat...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style bre...
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Thanks Phong. I'd say they're pretty similar...
Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown
July 27th 2018When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Row houses, such as Dege...
Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown
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They do, you're right. Whether to alter them or not depends on how you feel about the style at that length, but from the sound of it you don't like them as they are. Shortening jackets is a very difficult thing, as you b...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style ...
June 25th 2018This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style ...
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I don't think I'd go through them all again and measure to be honest, sorry. I don't own some anymore either! But in general that's correct, yes...
How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans
May 18th 2018Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, showing in detail th...
How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans
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I couldn't tell you much about the cuts and different styles, but in general they're not operating at the same level as the Japanese makes we cover here....
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
May 2nd 2018Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
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Any thoughts on the Crockett and Jones Sulgrave as compared to the Shankin?...
Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...
March 26th 2018This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bruce Boyer (and part 2) Wearing ...
Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...
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Excellent. He knows how to do a flow of tone from top to bottom -- for instance, light sport coat, while the dark tie leads the eye down to the dark pants. Perfect. Fullness of shirt collar/ tie width/ lapel width in har...
Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and l...
March 19th 2018I think it’s telling that the thing that makes me happiest about this outfit is the oatmeal-linen shirt, a piece made bespoke by D’Avino. I’ve been doing this for a while - trying to combine pieces of classic menswear in ways that ...
Unexpected texture and colour – Denim and l...
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Thank Mike, but please refrain from talking to other commenters like that. Cheers...
How to look after your shoes
January 12th 2018This is the first in a series of videos that we will be doing over the coming months, looking at caring for good clothes. They will be instructional, but not too technical, and we plan to build them up slowly over the year - so for example, not try...
How to look after your shoes
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Agreed! All depends on wear. If you do 30k steps twice a week on sweaty feet, I don't think any leather will last long. But If you're office worker ubering to work and barely doing 10k steps a week, I can't see why would...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
December 21st 2017The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
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Yes it definitely depends on the trousers, and brown will be more versatile. Navy is not great with warmer colours for instance, or with navy trousers (chinos, dark jeans)...
Introducing: The Suit-Carrier Holdall
November 9th 2017Although many of our collaborations have taken a while, this has been the hardest and most time-consuming ever. Perhaps because it is so different, and functionality so important. It is a bag and garment carrier in one - and it is called the Suit-Ca...
Introducing: The Suit-Carrier Holdall
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Thanks, do let us know what you think...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
September 20th 2017Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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For a cream linen suit? No, not at all. Jacket or trousers, yes, but the suit should not be regarded as a staple. For DBs, absolutely...
Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat
September 13th 2017*Check the Shop page for stock levels* Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop, or our UK manufacturing debat...
Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat
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Any good dry cleaner should be able to handle it Michael, it's pure cotton so not sure they could mess up. If in doubt, the Valet would certainly be a sure bet though...
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
August 18th 2017Rather a contrast this to Wednesday's post on dressing for hot weather. But it's good to look ahead to Autumn (God I'm looking forward to it - the coats, the knitwear, the hats!). And it's nice to be able to write about something that's actually in...
Anglo-Italian denim and Ralph Lauren cardigan
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It's a mix of two things: the cut I find a little too slim and tapered now, and the washes I don't like that much - they feel a bit too artificial. I'd go with raw denim and wear them in yourself....
What I pack when I travel
July 19th 2017As I return from two summer trips – one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples – it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, an...
What I pack when I travel
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I still use Rimowa when I'm checking something in, but I'm not sure I'd buy again today given the prices. I'm yet to find an alternative - everything people suggest is either worse quality or just as expensive....
Style Guide – the partners shoot
April 24th 2017The Style Guide has been wonderfully received so far - at the launch events in London and New York, but also online and through personal messages. Thank you all. There are a few things I realise I haven't emphasised so far. One is that we proudly d...
Style Guide – the partners shoot
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Lots of things I think. Grey and navy as shown here, plus cream or white, and black. More tonally similar colours, like dark brown, might be Ok if there's some other contrast, such as a white shirt underneath...
The state of British manufacturing: A debate at P...
March 29th 2017Two weeks ago, I chaired a discussion in the Private White VC shop in Mayfair around the topic of British manufacturing. It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable such talks I’ve ever done. The speakers were great, with both young and old;...
The state of British manufacturing: A debate at P...
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Nice one David. Personally if you were going to wear a coat over a suit jacket, I'd go for something smarter than the parka and a raincoat that is longer than this one. A longer one isn't much less packable and is a lot ...
Cavalry twill for trousers
March 22nd 2017Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy. The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many cottons, particularly garment-w...
Cavalry twill for trousers
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Hard to tell for sure as I haven't done it, but yes it might make a difference in stopping it seeming like part of a suit...
482,000 and counting
February 3rd 2017Permanent Style has never been about the numbers. It is about a highly engaged, (scarily) loyal, knowledgeable group of readers that want to dress well and understand quality clothing. But it's always nice to see that group grow. So I thought read...
482,000 and counting
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We have been fans from the very beginning and look forward to your announcement that Permanent Style has seen over a million page views a month!...
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
January 16th 2017The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore. I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') and subverting its connotations...
Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential o...
December 6th 2016I have been included in a list of the Top 10 most influential men in fashion by Esquire. Which is nice. You can read the full article and a short interview here. I dislike the term 'influencer' - frankly if that's how you define yourself, there ca...
Esquire names me one of the 10 most influential o...
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Easily remedied situation … take off the socks and show bare ankles!...
A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy
November 14th 2016This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and the fit contemporary. But you...
A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy
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Yes, it probably would, and wouldn't wear them together today - see article here on outfits I'd wear differently...
Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton
October 11th 2016Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory. I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motion to linger over particular par...
Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton
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Personally I think the Dainite is too thick - the city rubber sole would be OK, but the Dainite is a bit too chunky. Right on the London Grain, but a cord suit could be nice with it...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
August 29th 2016Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luc...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
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They can, but it's not a normal colour for chinos and others are usually easier...
Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear
May 20th 2016Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have many things in common. I'm a ...
Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear
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Occasionally I'm interested in the versatility of black suede dress shoes (as in Dover style) and then re-read this article for a reality check. Same with monk strap (esp. double monk) curiosity. Trying to learn from guy...
The benefits of building a shoe wardrobe – ...
November 6th 2015The new Edward Green website launched last week, and it’s very impressive. Unusually for the fashion industry, the site is both attractive and highly functional. The photography and colour palette are lovely, but it also has useful thing...
The benefits of building a shoe wardrobe – ...
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Again, up to you Jack, whether you want that little bit of variation...
