Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat

Read MoreSep 28th 2022

The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with.  This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....

Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat

The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with.  This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....

Sep 28th 2022

Eight outfits I liked at Pitti - and why

Read MoreJan 19th 2024

Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain.  My time w...

Eight outfits I liked at Pitti - and why

Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain.  My time w...

Jan 19th 2024

Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles

Read MoreJul 6th 2022

I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes.  But everyone’s stock has been arriving so late that the intervening months ...

Summer Top 10: Polos, more polos, and espadrilles

I wasn’t going to do a ‘high summer’ version of our seasonal Top 10. After all, the spring edition back in April included such things as panama hats and boat shoes.  But everyone’s stock has been arriving so late that the intervening months ...

Jul 6th 2022

What Ivy means to me

Read MoreJul 27th 2022

When we covered Ivy-inspired clothing in a recent Reader Profile, there were some slightly dismissive comments about Ivy as a whole. Given I’ve found that tradition particularly inspiring in the past five years, I thought it might be worth setting ...

What Ivy means to me

When we covered Ivy-inspired clothing in a recent Reader Profile, there were some slightly dismissive comments about Ivy as a whole. Given I’ve found that tradition particularly inspiring in the past five years, I thought it might be worth setting ...

Jul 27th 2022

Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)

Read MoreSep 7th 2022

The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised.  You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar (ab...

Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)

The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised.  You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar (ab...

Sep 7th 2022

A Day in the Life

Read MoreApr 17th 2023

My day begins around 6:30am, when my three-year-old starts shouting over the monitor that she wants to get up. That’s my job, in the highly organised division-of-labour that is our family life. I have to coax her out of her pyjamas and downstairs f...

A Day in the Life

My day begins around 6:30am, when my three-year-old starts shouting over the monitor that she wants to get up. That’s my job, in the highly organised division-of-labour that is our family life. I have to coax her out of her pyjamas and downstairs f...

Apr 17th 2023

William Fioravanti: The power tailor

Read MoreMay 1st 2023

*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...

William Fioravanti: The power tailor

*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...

May 1st 2023

If you only had five (casual) shoes

Read MoreJun 28th 2023

This is intended to be a partner to the ‘If you only had five shoes’ article in our Wardrobe Building guide, which was all smart footwear. Today’s piece is shoes that aren’t smart enough for a traditional office or - perhaps a better defini...

If you only had five (casual) shoes

This is intended to be a partner to the ‘If you only had five shoes’ article in our Wardrobe Building guide, which was all smart footwear. Today’s piece is shoes that aren’t smart enough for a traditional office or - perhaps a better defini...

Jun 28th 2023

The slouchy cardigan

Read MoreJun 10th 2022

Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps.  First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for warmth. It can look a little ...

The slouchy cardigan

Most cardigans that classic menswear fans admire fall into one of two camps.  First is the cardigan to be worn under a jacket, frequently sleeveless. This is often quite thin, and is practical as an additional layer for warmth. It can look a little ...

Jun 10th 2022

The canvas chore coat - and buying vintage online

Read MoreJun 29th 2022

I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage.  There are exceptions, of course. A Bryceland’s white chore coat, for...

The canvas chore coat - and buying vintage online

I increasingly find that for the kind of casual outerwear I wear at the weekend (for taking the kids to the park, and similarly hard-wearing activities) I always prefer vintage.  There are exceptions, of course. A Bryceland’s white chore coat, for...

Jun 29th 2022

Bespoke Anto shirt from La La Land - tucked and untucked

Read MoreSep 2nd 2022

In the continuing vein of exploring sports shirts - casual, vintage-styled, often rayon or silk - I chatted a couple of months ago to my friend Jack Sepetjian, who runs Anto shirts in LA.  I first got to know Jack when he spoke at our Shirtmakers Sy...

Bespoke Anto shirt from La La Land - tucked and untucked

In the continuing vein of exploring sports shirts - casual, vintage-styled, often rayon or silk - I chatted a couple of months ago to my friend Jack Sepetjian, who runs Anto shirts in LA.  I first got to know Jack when he spoke at our Shirtmakers Sy...

Sep 2nd 2022

Black tops and tonal combinations under

Read MoreSep 5th 2022

In many ways, today's outfit is a natural extension of things we’ve been talking about recently.  There was, back on August 12, our discussion about wearing all black, which has some bearing here. The outfit is not all black, of course, but it is ...

Black tops and tonal combinations under

In many ways, today's outfit is a natural extension of things we’ve been talking about recently.  There was, back on August 12, our discussion about wearing all black, which has some bearing here. The outfit is not all black, of course, but it is ...

Sep 5th 2022

Seiji McCarthy bespoke shoes: East Meets East

Read MoreSep 23rd 2022

Seiji McCarthy is someone I've wanted to cover on PS ever since we hung out in Tokyo some six years ago. But with no prospect of travelling to Japan soon, I turned to local writer and friend Christopher Berry to visit Seiji and report - on Seiji's Am...

Seiji McCarthy bespoke shoes: East Meets East

Seiji McCarthy is someone I've wanted to cover on PS ever since we hung out in Tokyo some six years ago. But with no prospect of travelling to Japan soon, I turned to local writer and friend Christopher Berry to visit Seiji and report - on Seiji's Am...

Sep 23rd 2022

Wear loafers with jeans

Read MoreOct 10th 2022

In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans.  Jeans are what m...

Wear loafers with jeans

In the hyper-casual world we’re living in, any opportunity to add a little smartness to everyday clothing should be grabbed with both hands. One of the most effective ways to do this, I’m finding, is wearing loafers with jeans.  Jeans are what m...

Oct 10th 2022

Moulded Shoe, New York: Home of the modified last

Read MoreDec 5th 2022

Moulded Shoe in New York is a charming shop. A family-run business now in its third generation, It’s narrow and tall, with shoe boxes stacked way up to a double-height ceiling.  There are newspaper cuttings, customer photos and a Japanese cartoon ...

Moulded Shoe, New York: Home of the modified last

Moulded Shoe in New York is a charming shop. A family-run business now in its third generation, It’s narrow and tall, with shoe boxes stacked way up to a double-height ceiling.  There are newspaper cuttings, customer photos and a Japanese cartoon ...

Dec 5th 2022

The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket 

Read MoreNov 30th 2022

I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often.  It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket.  It has the distinctive lapel ...

The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket 

I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often.  It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket.  It has the distinctive lapel ...

Nov 30th 2022

Experimenting with the smock, or anorak

Read MoreJan 13th 2023

Fifteen years ago, I wrote a piece called ‘Enjoy your fashion cycle’. Ten years later, in 2018, there was one called ‘How I filter fashions’. Today, I find myself thinking along the same lines as we explore casual (but often no less tradition...

Experimenting with the smock, or anorak

Fifteen years ago, I wrote a piece called ‘Enjoy your fashion cycle’. Ten years later, in 2018, there was one called ‘How I filter fashions’. Today, I find myself thinking along the same lines as we explore casual (but often no less tradition...

Jan 13th 2023

What makes a quality sweatshirt?

Read MoreFeb 8th 2023

Sweatshirts vary hugely in price, from £20 at a fast-fashion brand to well over £200 from a specialist Japanese maker.  And even though the price difference is that large among brands we cover - say Merz b Schwnen at £130 and The Real McCoy’s a...

What makes a quality sweatshirt?

Sweatshirts vary hugely in price, from £20 at a fast-fashion brand to well over £200 from a specialist Japanese maker.  And even though the price difference is that large among brands we cover - say Merz b Schwnen at £130 and The Real McCoy’s a...

Feb 8th 2023

Hosoi Paris: Hand-sewn and original leather bags

Read MoreApr 5th 2023

Just outside the centre of Paris, in the Faubourg Saint Antoine district, there is an institution called Cour de l’industrie: a set of courtyards that houses around 50 different artisans.   As a home of industry it traces its history back to 1673...

Hosoi Paris: Hand-sewn and original leather bags

Just outside the centre of Paris, in the Faubourg Saint Antoine district, there is an institution called Cour de l’industrie: a set of courtyards that houses around 50 different artisans.   As a home of industry it traces its history back to 1673...

Apr 5th 2023

Tracksmith running clothing: Review

Read MoreAug 2nd 2023

Tracksmith, the running brand, recently interviewed me and a bunch of others for their magazine. The photos here are from that piece, and if you’d like you can read it here. It was nice having the excuse to reflect on what running has meant to me. ...

Tracksmith running clothing: Review

Tracksmith, the running brand, recently interviewed me and a bunch of others for their magazine. The photos here are from that piece, and if you’d like you can read it here. It was nice having the excuse to reflect on what running has meant to me. ...

Aug 2nd 2023

Sandals: Slides and huaraches, open-toe and closed

Read MoreAug 7th 2023

Espadrilles are my preferred, casual summer shoe. I’ve always liked their clean lines and simplicity, which make them more elegant than pretty much any other option. I also quite like the massage-like feeling of walking on rope. They’re cheap, ea...

Sandals: Slides and huaraches, open-toe and closed

Espadrilles are my preferred, casual summer shoe. I’ve always liked their clean lines and simplicity, which make them more elegant than pretty much any other option. I also quite like the massage-like feeling of walking on rope. They’re cheap, ea...

Aug 7th 2023

Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights 

Read MoreNov 3rd 2023

Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (...

Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights 

Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (...

Nov 3rd 2023

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

Read MoreNov 10th 2023

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have a bi...

Casual suits with collared knits: A new default

I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have a bi...

Nov 10th 2023

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

Read MoreMay 25th 2011

Latest from The Rake:Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over again Simon CromptonYou have to fee...

Gaziano & Girling: Deco

Latest from The Rake:Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over again Simon CromptonYou have to fee...

May 25th 2011

Lutwyche & Lodger

Read MoreNov 17th 2010

As I'm sure many of you already know, Lodger was bought by Tony Lutwyche a couple of weeks ago and the name of the company has been changed to Lutwyche & Lodger. Lodger shoes will carry on as is, but the store will now also stock Tony's ready-to-...

Lutwyche & Lodger

As I'm sure many of you already know, Lodger was bought by Tony Lutwyche a couple of weeks ago and the name of the company has been changed to Lutwyche & Lodger. Lodger shoes will carry on as is, but the store will now also stock Tony's ready-to-...

Nov 17th 2010