Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers - in London

Read MoreJul 10th 2015

 UPDATE: A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury - it's [email protected] and [email protected]. (Zach is taking appointments and measurements for Saint Crispin's.)  I go...

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers - in London

 UPDATE: A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury - it's [email protected] and [email protected]. (Zach is taking appointments and measurements for Saint Crispin's.)  I go...

Jul 10th 2015

Bespoke box from Linkson Jack

Read MoreOct 17th 2012

 When a man has collected a few nice things, his thoughts turn to nice things to put things in. And of course it’s a good excuse to learn about how something else is made – in this case, bespoke jewellery boxes. The model here is sold by Linkson...

Bespoke box from Linkson Jack

 When a man has collected a few nice things, his thoughts turn to nice things to put things in. And of course it’s a good excuse to learn about how something else is made – in this case, bespoke jewellery boxes. The model here is sold by Linkson...

Oct 17th 2012

Roberto Ugolini bespoke boots: Review

Read MoreNov 22nd 2023

I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about what I need in terms of fit, and...

Roberto Ugolini bespoke boots: Review

I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about what I need in terms of fit, and...

Nov 22nd 2023

Bespoke double-breasted denim jacket - from Cifonelli, Paris

Read MoreApr 7th 2017

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal by using a casual cloth is attractive.  It retains the benefits of tailoring - the elegant...

Bespoke double-breasted denim jacket - from Cifonelli, Paris

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal by using a casual cloth is attractive.  It retains the benefits of tailoring - the elegant...

Apr 7th 2017

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

Read MoreJul 20th 2016

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

The appeal of the cotton suit - bespoke from Elia Caliendo

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

Jul 20th 2016

Second British bespoke, part 1

Read MoreNov 11th 2009

I mentioned a while back that I had commissioned a second suit from Graham Browne in London. And after rather too much travelling lately (Milan, Madrid, Dubai in a month; and Hong Kong next week) I’ve finally got around to watching the first step o...

Second British bespoke, part 1

I mentioned a while back that I had commissioned a second suit from Graham Browne in London. And after rather too much travelling lately (Milan, Madrid, Dubai in a month; and Hong Kong next week) I’ve finally got around to watching the first step o...

Nov 11th 2009

Kimonos and their silk: Bespoke at Motoji, Tokyo

Read MoreFeb 20th 2017

In the realm of classic menswear, silk is usually restricted to discussions of ties and handkerchiefs. There is the occasional silk facing, and silk-mix jacketing, but it rarely features alone in clothing.  It was fascinating while in Japan last y...

Kimonos and their silk: Bespoke at Motoji, Tokyo

In the realm of classic menswear, silk is usually restricted to discussions of ties and handkerchiefs. There is the occasional silk facing, and silk-mix jacketing, but it rarely features alone in clothing.  It was fascinating while in Japan last y...

Feb 20th 2017

A Day in the Life

Read MoreApr 17th 2023

My day begins around 6:30am, when my three-year-old starts shouting over the monitor that she wants to get up. That’s my job, in the highly organised division-of-labour that is our family life. I have to coax her out of her pyjamas and downstairs f...

A Day in the Life

My day begins around 6:30am, when my three-year-old starts shouting over the monitor that she wants to get up. That’s my job, in the highly organised division-of-labour that is our family life. I have to coax her out of her pyjamas and downstairs f...

Apr 17th 2023

Cashmere Rugby restock, with navy

Read MoreOct 14th 2022

The Cashmere Rugby - our reintroduction of the classic four-ply quality of Scottish polo - has just been restocked.  A dark navy has been added to last year's flannel grey, covering pretty much all the bases for a slightly classic, slightly better-d...

Cashmere Rugby restock, with navy

The Cashmere Rugby - our reintroduction of the classic four-ply quality of Scottish polo - has just been restocked.  A dark navy has been added to last year's flannel grey, covering pretty much all the bases for a slightly classic, slightly better-d...

Oct 14th 2022

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

Read MoreFeb 21st 2018

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

Feb 21st 2018

Cifonelli cashmere overcoat: Style Breakdown

Read MoreFeb 21st 2024

This cashmere coat from Cifonelli, which I've had now for nine years, is similar in many ways to the two coats we’ve covered previously in this series - from Ciardi and from Liverano. There are some technical differences, however, which makes the...

Cifonelli cashmere overcoat: Style Breakdown

This cashmere coat from Cifonelli, which I've had now for nine years, is similar in many ways to the two coats we’ve covered previously in this series - from Ciardi and from Liverano. There are some technical differences, however, which makes the...

Feb 21st 2024

Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown

Read MoreMar 22nd 2024

This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series, which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...

Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown

This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series, which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...

Mar 22nd 2024

The Valet: Becoming a one-stop shop for clothing care

Read MoreMar 18th 2024

The Valet has become an all-round care and repair location in the past couple of years, which is great for our general push to encourage readers to look after their clothes better. Having started with pressing, then adding dry cleaning and shoe care,...

The Valet: Becoming a one-stop shop for clothing care

The Valet has become an all-round care and repair location in the past couple of years, which is great for our general push to encourage readers to look after their clothes better. Having started with pressing, then adding dry cleaning and shoe care,...

Mar 18th 2024

B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style

Read MoreFeb 5th 2024

When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor. Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had the best experienc...

B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style

When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor. Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had the best experienc...

Feb 5th 2024

When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity

Read MoreFeb 19th 2024

At Pitti Uomo back in January I took the opportunity to wear mostly tailoring and ties - the two outfits shown above and below. And it felt great.  I know there are traditionalists who see me as the antithesis of this, as I’m rarely pictured weari...

When to wear a tie: Personality and opportunity

At Pitti Uomo back in January I took the opportunity to wear mostly tailoring and ties - the two outfits shown above and below. And it felt great.  I know there are traditionalists who see me as the antithesis of this, as I’m rarely pictured weari...

Feb 19th 2024

Introducing: The Speciale hand-framed cotton sweater

Read MoreMar 20th 2024

I love cotton knits in the Summer. I couldn’t always see the point of them, but in the past few years I’ve regularly taken one on our holidays (usually to Portugal or France) and I adore the feeling on putting one on as the day cools down. They p...

Introducing: The Speciale hand-framed cotton sweater

I love cotton knits in the Summer. I couldn’t always see the point of them, but in the past few years I’ve regularly taken one on our holidays (usually to Portugal or France) and I adore the feeling on putting one on as the day cools down. They p...

Mar 20th 2024

Come to our next talk: Tony Gaziano at Mortimer House

Read MoreApr 5th 2024

Things have been a bit crazy recently with the pop-up shop and the book launches - now three, in London, Paris and New York. But I'm glad to say we're also re-starting our popular reader talks, where we interview an interesting person in menswear alo...

Come to our next talk: Tony Gaziano at Mortimer House

Things have been a bit crazy recently with the pop-up shop and the book launches - now three, in London, Paris and New York. But I'm glad to say we're also re-starting our popular reader talks, where we interview an interesting person in menswear alo...

Apr 5th 2024

How my jacket style has changed

Read MoreNov 12th 2021

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

How my jacket style has changed

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

Nov 12th 2021

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat in 'British Warm'

Read MoreOct 23rd 2020

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again.  It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Knitwear and necklines - with Ciardi overcoat in 'British Warm'

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again.  It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Oct 23rd 2020

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Read MoreMar 18th 2019

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling (or, the ideal artisanal journey)

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

Mar 18th 2019

Floris bespoke perfume

Read MoreFeb 1st 2016

  Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first bespoke suit.I’ve alway...

Floris bespoke perfume

  Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first bespoke suit.I’ve alway...

Feb 1st 2016

A view on emerging Chinese shoemakers

Read MoreMar 16th 2022

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry about o...

A view on emerging Chinese shoemakers

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry about o...

Mar 16th 2022

Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown

Read MoreFeb 7th 2024

This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost).  It remains one of my absolute favou...

Liverano ulster coat: Style Breakdown

This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost).  It remains one of my absolute favou...

Feb 7th 2024

Reader profile: James

Read MoreFeb 14th 2024

James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi.  James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria...

Reader profile: James

James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi.  James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria...

Feb 14th 2024

Vintage stores embody ‘materialism not consumerism’

Read MoreJan 2nd 2023

During a recent trip to Manchester, I visited a lovely little vintage shop called Bionic Seven. A partner store to Levison's in London, it leans towards more modern and more sports clothing, but has quite a few little gems in amongst the racks.  I d...

Vintage stores embody ‘materialism not consumerism’

During a recent trip to Manchester, I visited a lovely little vintage shop called Bionic Seven. A partner store to Levison's in London, it leans towards more modern and more sports clothing, but has quite a few little gems in amongst the racks.  I d...

Jan 2nd 2023