The Simone Abbarchi workshop, in a little street, outside Florence
I know shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi has a lot of PS customers in London and New York. They might like to know - and see - where their shirts are made. It’s a little workshop about 10 minutes drive outside of Florence. Simone arrives every morning a...
The Simone Abbarchi workshop, in a little street, outside Florence
I know shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi has a lot of PS customers in London and New York. They might like to know - and see - where their shirts are made. It’s a little workshop about 10 minutes drive outside of Florence. Simone arrives every morning a...
Arthur Sleep, Aimé Leon Dore and Acme/Mori: Three things that didn't quite work
We probably spend a little too much time talking about how great products are on PS (even though we're more critical than most) and not enough talking about ones that didn't work out. Here's a summary of three I've tried recently, which for various r...
Arthur Sleep, Aimé Leon Dore and Acme/Mori: Three things that didn't quite work
We probably spend a little too much time talking about how great products are on PS (even though we're more critical than most) and not enough talking about ones that didn't work out. Here's a summary of three I've tried recently, which for various r...
Memories of Edward Sexton
Edward Sexton, the English bespoke tailor, sadly passed away this week. We were, as many readers will know, supposed to be holding a talk with Edward this past Spring, but his health has been poor for a while and that was postponed. In preparation ...
Memories of Edward Sexton
Edward Sexton, the English bespoke tailor, sadly passed away this week. We were, as many readers will know, supposed to be holding a talk with Edward this past Spring, but his health has been poor for a while and that was postponed. In preparation ...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (...
Wythe, Bally, P Johnson: A/W 2023 highlights
Some old, some new in this year’s round-up of Autumn/Winter products. These articles are a nice way to mention brands on the edge of our radar (Bally) as well as to discuss new releases from favourites that wouldn’t otherwise get a full article (...
Our next talk - with Edward Sexton on December 12th
These talks - well, interviews - at Mortimer House seem to be going down really well. We've done two now, with Tony Sylvester and Ethan Newton, and the film of Ethan's interview will be up on Monday. There are some really interesting points in it and...
Our next talk - with Edward Sexton on December 12th
These talks - well, interviews - at Mortimer House seem to be going down really well. We've done two now, with Tony Sylvester and Ethan Newton, and the film of Ethan's interview will be up on Monday. There are some really interesting points in it and...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...
Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy
This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring. Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...
Point collars - at Budd
My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread with a tie, the button-down ...
Point collars - at Budd
My shirt collars over the years have generally been one of two styles: spread or button-down. Both can work with or without a tie (and have been tweaked consistently to make that easier) but I generally prefer the spread with a tie, the button-down ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part one)
This is the single question I get asked most, and when it is, I nearly always reply that it’s a complex area that really requires a full in-depth article. I think it actually takes two. In this first article, today, I'll explain my personal pri...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part one)
This is the single question I get asked most, and when it is, I nearly always reply that it’s a complex area that really requires a full in-depth article. I think it actually takes two. In this first article, today, I'll explain my personal pri...
Sticking with Yohei: Commissioning black oxfords
Readers will be aware that I have become a little sceptical about bespoke shoes in recent years. As I detailed in the article ‘Are bespoke shoes worth it?’ my experiences have been a little patchy, and looking back on 13 years of commissioning, i...
Sticking with Yohei: Commissioning black oxfords
Readers will be aware that I have become a little sceptical about bespoke shoes in recent years. As I detailed in the article ‘Are bespoke shoes worth it?’ my experiences have been a little patchy, and looking back on 13 years of commissioning, i...
The Overcoats Style Breakdown series: Introduction
Next week we’ll begin a series of articles that breaks down the style of my bespoke coats, building on the popular 2018 series that looked at suits and jackets. That turned into a book, Bespoke Style, which was a great illustration of the rich...
The Overcoats Style Breakdown series: Introduction
Next week we’ll begin a series of articles that breaks down the style of my bespoke coats, building on the popular 2018 series that looked at suits and jackets. That turned into a book, Bespoke Style, which was a great illustration of the rich...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020. It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...
Paolo Martorano bespoke hopsack jacket: Review
This bespoke jacket was made for me by Paolo Martorano, the tailor in New York I first covered in 2020. It’s particularly significant because of the dearth of bespoke tailors in the US. Although many tailors travel to the US from the UK and Europ...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar (ab...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar (ab...
Seiji McCarthy bespoke shoes: East Meets East
Seiji McCarthy is someone I've wanted to cover on PS ever since we hung out in Tokyo some six years ago. But with no prospect of travelling to Japan soon, I turned to local writer and friend Christopher Berry to visit Seiji and report - on Seiji's Am...
Seiji McCarthy bespoke shoes: East Meets East
Seiji McCarthy is someone I've wanted to cover on PS ever since we hung out in Tokyo some six years ago. But with no prospect of travelling to Japan soon, I turned to local writer and friend Christopher Berry to visit Seiji and report - on Seiji's Am...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
Readers who saw the first article on Assisi, the Korean tailor that made this tweed double-breasted jacket, were impressed with how the fit was looking, and they weren’t wrong. It’s a very well cut piece of bespoke, with a three-dimensional sha...
Assisi bespoke double-breasted tweed: Review
Readers who saw the first article on Assisi, the Korean tailor that made this tweed double-breasted jacket, were impressed with how the fit was looking, and they weren’t wrong. It’s a very well cut piece of bespoke, with a three-dimensional sha...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor. Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had the best experienc...
B&Tailor: Real bespoke, distinctive style
When I travelled to Korea back in December, one of the places I was keenest to visit was B&Tailor. Because, like many people, I’d been impressed for years at what I’d seen from Chad Park and his colleagues, but hadn’t had the best experienc...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and much else
Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. What I ac...
Bocache & Salvucci, Rome: Bespoke shoes and much else
Bocache & Salvucci was a bit of a surprise when I visited last month. I’d come across the shoemaker at Jean-Manuel Moreau, in Paris, and had assumed that in Rome I would find a small (because relatively unknown) bespoke craftsman. What I ac...
Ettore de Cesare bespoke navy overcoat
This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy. However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...
Ettore de Cesare bespoke navy overcoat
This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured before, in the style feature a couple of weeks ago talking about silk scarves and shades of navy. However, there have been a few comments recently that readers appreciate articles on n...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and the end of the Spanis...
Visiting Bel y Cia in Barcelona, home of the Teba
By Manish Puri Bel y Cia opened in 1842 as a camiseria (shirt maker) on Passatge de Bacardí – a narrow walkway that connects Barcelona’s Las Rambla to Plaça Reial. Following the demolition of the city walls (1854-1866) and the end of the Spanis...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years. Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more style...
Assisi bespoke tailors, Korea: Fitting a tweed DB
Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years. Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more style...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailor Caid and others
When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century American...
The jacket-as-coat: Seiji’s commission from Tailor Caid and others
When the shoemaker Seiji McCarthy came to New York recently to take part in our pop-up, he brought with him a recent commission from Tailor Caid, the Japanese bespoke tailor run by Yuhei Yamamoto. Yamamoto is a big enthusiast for mid-century American...
Anto: Shirtmaker to Hollywood, on and off screen
I can imagine a reader walking past Anto Shirts in Beverly Hills and not stopping in. There’s quite a range of styles, and not all of them are the kind of classic look PS normally covers. The readers that have mentioned the shirtmaker to me have ...
Anto: Shirtmaker to Hollywood, on and off screen
I can imagine a reader walking past Anto Shirts in Beverly Hills and not stopping in. There’s quite a range of styles, and not all of them are the kind of classic look PS normally covers. The readers that have mentioned the shirtmaker to me have ...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check the q...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check the q...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...
Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat
The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with. This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....
Introducing: The navy Donegal Coat
The cut and contours of this, the PS Donegal Coat, will be familiar to most readers. So I’ll focus on the colour to begin with. This is our navy iteration, and it is primarily a large, 3x3 herringbone weave that alternates between navy and black....
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...