Month: April 2012

Review: Philips Multigroom

Posted on by Simon Crompton


I am asked to review things fairly regularly these days. One of the perks of Permanent Style’s popularity, you might say. Unfortunately, most of the things are awful: $20 ties, ‘fashion’ T-shirts, even garden furniture. When will PRs learn that mass emails don’t work with bloggers?

One such random e-mail two weeks ago struck a chord, however. Someone at Philips asked me to review their latest ‘personal grooming’ device, the Multigroom QG3270 (catchy name, no?). They had read in a previous post about shaving that I normally cut my own hair and trim my own beard (there is little enough of both to make it fairly straightforward) and asked if I was interested to compare their product with my existing clippers. Those clippers are about 12 years’ old, so I said yes.

In case anyone is in doubt, the product was given to me free.

The major advantage the Multigroom has over my old Braun clippers is that it is wireless. It charges on a base, saving me standing that little bit too far away from the mirror and too close to the plug. The major negative is that it is a rather lightweight product, and I can’t feel it is unlikely to last 12 years with no need for maintenance, like my Brauns. In both instances, my impression is that these are features of the modern product. The Philips is also not at the top end of the range, retailing at £30.

The Philips model comes with a far larger range of attachments, including some enabling to precision trim the edge of my beard (not really necessary) and to trim my ear or nose hair (ear thankfully not necessary, nose actually quite useful – a lot easier than scissors). There is also one attachment for a beard and a separate, larger one for the hair.

 There is little to say about quality. Both old and new cut hair. No clumps were randomly missed. I have my opinions about longevity, as mentioned, but those are nothing more than speculation really.

 Nice to have a new set though.

La Portegna: simple, supple slippers

Posted on by Simon Crompton


As mentioned at the time, there was little that really excited me at Pitti Uomo this year. But a meeting with one little company has led to further collaboration: La Portegna.

A tiny operation in Madrid, La Portegna makes simple, leather and canvas products like slippers, bags and cases. They are straightforward, functional designs that will appeal to the traveler that dislikes fuss and wants his accessories to look lived in as quickly as possible.

The young company was founded by José Urrutia, inspired by the travels of his grandmother in the thirties and forties, which included trips with Ernest Hemingway (below). Portegna is the name for Europeans that emigrated to South America.


I bought a pair of the slippers, and wear them every day when I stumble out of bed to give my one- and four-year-old daughters breakfast. They are simply two pieces of very soft, veggie-tanned leather sewn together around the vamp with a leather insole. There is nothing to them, with the advantage that they can be rolled up for travel, as shown in the photo from Pitti.


They also come in versions with thin leather soles and rubber, driving-shoe style treads. I prefer the simple leather.

The disadvantage of being so unstructured is that they do not slip on and off as easily as other slippers. A thin leather like this also quickly heats up and so wants to stick to the skin – men who have worn slip-on shoes without socks in the summer will know the feeling I refer to.

I found this a little irritating to start with. My Tod’s gomminos, being thicker, do not stick in the same way. But that feeling dissipated pretty quickly. I love how they mould to my feet now; how they feel like wearing nothing at all; how they feel like gloves for the feet (though I think that is a Tod’s line).

Being so supple, they stretch a little, and therefore I would advise anyone buying a pair to go for the smaller size if you fall between sizes (as I do).

And they are only €70.


Combining pattern and colour in shirts and ties

Posted on by Simon Crompton


For many, this combination of colours and patterns will be too strong for any occasion, no matter how light hearted. But take out one or two elements – such as the tie, or the scarf and handkerchief, and there are important lessons here for everyone. Dandies can lift the look wholesale.

Strong patterns need to be set alongside others of a dissimilar scale. So despite the strength of the butcher’s stripe on this shirt, the tie works because its pattern is larger. The jacket bears a far smaller, subtler pattern, while the handkerchief is similarly subtle but worked on a larger scale.

Nothing clashes from similarity and proximity – except perhaps the scarf, which succeeds through the plainness of its decoration. And perhaps the sheer audacity of adding one more decorative element.

In terms of colours, most items here are dominated by a blue or lilac ground or pattern, which ties them together. The pale yellow of the handkerchief, meanwhile, picks up the  yellowish cast of the grey glen-plaid jacket.

I love this outfit for its mastery of pattern matching (if four is said to demonstrate expertise, five must surely show mastery) and harmony of colour.

It’s worth bearing in mind, too, that some of these items on their own, such as the tie, would struggle for context. I’ve never liked paisley ties like this for that very reason. This outfit might change my mind. 

Picture courtesy of The Armoury.

Golden Acorn cufflinks

Posted on by Simon Crompton


Cuff links are tricky things. Hard to get right, but the best form of jewellery when you do.

My problems with most modern cufflinks led to me designing my own range with jeweller Diana Maynard last year. Those sold well through this blog but did even better on The Hanger Project, Kirby Allison’s website that has grown from a supplier of luxury hangers to something far bigger and broader.

Kirby was spurred by that success to try and find a great jeweller of his own on the other side of the pond, and the result is the beautiful gold and lapis lazuli pair shown above.

Referred to as the Golden Acorn design, these are step up on my links in both quality and price. They are made in sold 14kt gold (approx weight of 15 grammes) and are available to order by next Wednesday, the 25th, for $2250 (50% deposit upon order).

But they retain a lot of the design aspects that Kirby and I agree on. They have a substantial form on both side of the cuff, measuring the same 10mm across on the front as mine, and come with a relatively short shank that will ensure they don’t swing around too much and bang on the desk.

Also interesting is the design for the matching studs, which have a retracting bar allowing them to be easily inserted into a shirt but highly unlikely to ever fall out, once the bar has retracted.

Kirby has far more details on his intention behind the project and the technical specs here. As they are all made to order, some changes to design are possible, such as requests to have them made in white gold. Permanent Style readers can get free express shipping by quoting the code PSTYLE either on the order form or over the phone.

Hello from Lyon

Posted on by Simon Crompton


In Lyon this week, visiting the Zilli factory where they make the most beautiful leather products. The leathers in the jackets, particularly, are gorgeous.

More next week.

(Lesser mid-blue flannel suit, Anderson & Sheppard; shirt, Turnbull & Asser; orange madder tie, Church’s; green paisley handkerchief, Etro; brown Oxfords, Lodger)


Photography: Luke Carby

Mickey Rourke’s bespoke slippers

Posted on by Simon Crompton

In the past few weeks I’ve been talking fairly regularly to George Glasgow Jr, of GJ Cleverley in Los Angeles, for some articles in The Rake. I find it interesting what his Hollywood clients order – given that few of their contemporaries wear smart shoes.

The answer appears to be casuals, so suede and slip-ons, plus one or two very smart pairs for black tie. And in this case, some rather nice slippers.


These were made recently for Mickey Rourke. He designed the monogram and picked the sole, in-sole and lining colours, as well as specifying a blind welt and very thin soles. Being an Albert slipper, the soles are glued, but the shoe is hand lasted as with any other bespoke pair.

Apparently Mickey has another pair on order, with red piping and gold initials. Plus a further 12 pairs of regular shoes. It’s better than spending it on Armani I suppose.


For Cleverley fans in the US, George Glasgow senior will be out from later this week. Dates are:

New York: April 19th – April 23rd
San Francisco: April 25th & 26th
Beverly Hills: April 27th, 28th, 29th & 30th.
Houston: May 2nd & 3rd
Dallas: May 4th
Palm Beach: May 6th & 7th
Washington, DC: May 14th & 15th
Chicago: May 16th & 17th
Boston: May 18th & 19th
Atlanta: May 21st & 22nd
New York: May 23rd & 24th

Reader question: Looking after ties

Posted on by Simon Crompton

Dear Simon,

Having read with great interest all your articles (over many, many hours – I am a late-comer to your site) I have been amassing information. Now that I have actually started to purchase clothes etc, the question I have of ties, which I intend to start wearing to work again, is how to look after them. With my latest acquisition, from Drakes, it came presented in a lovely box when ordered through the email. This lead to me think should it be stored flat. Then I remember reading that they should be stored rolled, on the other hand one can buy tie hangers almost everywhere which leads to even further confusion. Maybe I should go back to your Le Snob for there may be some comment in there as I am sure I recall reading something about storage.

So perhaps from time to time, you may wish to consider these points and inform those, like me, that know very little about decent clothes and how to look after them, for there is little out there to advise us. For example, I read a lovely little article in The Rake some time back in which Tim Everest explained how to store suits/jackets against moths. He advised using breathable suit covers (previously mine had all been cheap plastic) from Morplan, and then to use scented cedar balls and top them up from time to time with refresher oil. This instruction I have followed and feel a sense of duty to my better quality clothes which ultimately leaves me feeling, well, great.

Best
Bradley


Thanks for your question, Bradley. I’m pleased you are finding such reward in slowly building a high-quality wardrobe.

The answer on ties is pretty simple. Most ties should be stored hanging up, so that the day’s wrinkles fall out of them. The only exception is knitted or heavy woven ties, which can stretch if hung up – they should be rolled.

That is the stock advice. But I should also say that I usually hang my knitted ties, because I have no easy place to store them rolled, and I have noticed no deleterious effects over the past decade or so. People always say that knitted ties are cut shorter for that reason too – because they stretch over time – but I’ve never found any to stretch substantially and I wish they’d make them to a regular length.

Also, the beneficial effect of hanging a tie is largely worked out after a couple of days. So if it is easier for you to store ties flat or rolled up, just hang up the most recently worn and periodically slide them away into a drawer.

Tim’s advice on storage is good too. I like buying my favourite fragrance in an oil and using that to top up the cedar wood – it makes my clothes smell ever-so-subtly of me. And wards off moths. Do make sure to store your clothes clean as well – if you wear your suits rarely, you can dry clean them just this once a year.

Simon

Pictured: Cedar tie organiser, The Hanger Project

Steven Hitchcock – the final jacket

Posted on by Simon Crompton

I picked up my final jacket and trousers from Steven Hitchcock last week. The result is a beautiful tweed jacket – light and comfortable but still with definite shape – and a wonderfully fitting pair of moleskins.


Steven describes his offering as “soft tailoring for comfort and style” and this is gives the customer a good idea of the end result.

Readers will probably be familiar with the soft, drape cut that is most strongly identified with Anderson & Sheppard (where Steven trained). A soft shoulder and full chest is pulled into a close waist, given shape to the upper body.

If anything, Steven’s cut is more comfortable than A&S, with a particular focus on achieving a clean line up the side of the body, through the waist and up the side of the armhole. The soft, lightweight tweed here accentuates that effect.


The trousers are usually cut high, with side adjustors on the seam. As you can see in the picture, the fit is particularly nice in the small of my back – something other tailors struggle with as the curve of my back is quite exaggerated. The close-up of the back also demonstrates how the cut has dealt with the idiosyncrasies of my body, with Steven achieving a clean back despite my prominent shoulder blades. As I mentioned in my previous post, hand-sewing the back seam helped in this regard, giving it greater stretch.


Finally, I was pleased with how the gauntlets on the sleeves turned out. When ordering I was unsure whether they would have looked nicer running all the way around, rather than just on the outside half, but I think that would have made the cuff too heavy.


Steven is in New York soon, and his dates can be found below. Ask him about his carp-fishing prowess!

If you want some more examples of Steven’s style, check out his blog here. I’m a particular fan of this shot.

The Benjamin Hotel,
 125 East 50th Street
Sunday 20th May through Wednesday 23rd May 2012
Contact: steven@stevenhitchcock
US cell phone: +1 646 241 9039


Photography: Luke Carby

Liverano & Liverano trunk show

Posted on by Simon Crompton

At the end of next week The Armoury will he holding another trunk show in London, featuring Florentine tailor Liverano & Liverano, Spanish shoemaker Carmina and glasses maker Nackymade. It will be held at the Rook & Raven gallery, just off Tottenham Court Road, on April 20 and 21.

Carmina makes great, staple shoes and Nackymade is a one-man designer and maker of rather quirky glasses. I know Liverano & Liverano best, however, having met Antonio a few times and visited them in Florence (above). For a detailed description of that, see the article on The Rake here.

As a general description of the style of Liverano, the jacket is short and clean with slanting front darts slightly off to the side to add shape to the waist. The shoulders are slightly extended, unpadded and cleanly made, while the front quarters cut away quite strongly. The trousers are slim with a strong taper and worn with no break or only a slight break. This is just the typical look, though, and Antonio will emphasise or de-emphasise certain aspects to suit the customer’s build or character.

For some great examples of Liverano suiting, and generally for inspiration, see The Armoury’s Tumblr account.

The Craftsman, by Richard Sennett

Posted on by Simon Crompton

The Craftsman has a much broader scope and grander ambition than the simple celebration of handmade menswear that we attempt on this site.

In his book, Richard Sennett aims to show how the quality of product and personal pride that result from manual manufacture can be extended to all fields of human work. Whether a scientist in a laboratory or a chef in a kitchen, the common themes of craft – allowing time to develop expertise, the ability to stand back and reflect on work – can help anyone can get more out of what they do to earn a living.

But there are still many parts of this book that readers will identify with and enjoy. Stories of craftsmen such as Len Greenham, for example, a leather bookbinder in Northampton and the last of a family that has always done something called morocco-graining. Or the benefits and dangers of the spread of craft techniques through the internet.

Interesting, too, is Sennett’s rejection of adjectives like ‘traditional’, ‘original’, ‘natural’ in describing craft and product. Not because he has to put up with the same marketing bullsh*t as us, but because he dislikes these Romantic values and the romanticising of craft for its own sake. This reminds me of the need to objectively evaluate the handwork we admire: what has practical value, aesthetic value or neither.

Rather than the Romantic, Sennett comments the Enlightenment attitude to craft, and his description of its approach to machinery bears repeating: “The enlightened way to use a machine is to judge its powers, fashion its uses, in light of our own limits rather than the machine’s potential,” he says. The fact that machines can now hand-link the toe of a sock is something to celebrate. The invention should “propose rather than command”.

A good read by a great sociologist. And it will teach you more about cooking than you might expect.

Sette ties: true seven folds

Posted on by Simon Crompton

I am asked fairly regularly to review ties, often produced by new, small companies. Ties are, I suppose, quite easy to sell online and the lower costs of doing so makes them an obvious product to start with.

But it surprises me how few of these I like. You would have thought that a tie was a fairly homogenous accessory: unless the width is vastly different, and it is hand-sewn, the only major variable is the design of the silks. Yet most of them are not to my taste.

Ed Morel’s Panta Clothing in New York, for example, makes great trousers, but I haven’t liked some of the ties – the wools and cashmeres are nice, but the early silks were often unlined or the designs didn’t appeal. Ignatious Joseph, who I think makes pretty good shirts, also sent me two of his ties but the pink and blue satins were too loud. I love the hosiery at the DandyStore, but not so much the ties.

All this is not a prelude, as you might expect, to saying that Sette makes the perfect ties. They, too, are not quite to my taste – the target market is American politicians and the colours and silks are bolder, with more sheen, than I like. It’s a question of how the silks are dyed. But unlike most other retailers, Sette has a unique story and a relatively rare take on construction: true seven fold.


Sette (Italian for seven) was set up a few months ago by Peter Watkins, a White House aide in his former life, and Bob Jensen, who worked as US tiemaker Robert Talbott for 30 years and was latterly their creative director. Peter knows the market in the US (Bill Clinton is a customer) and Bob knows the tie industry.

The ties are all made in Como, Italy with local silks and Bob travels out there from his home in Carmel, California to work on the designs and supervise production. But that’s far from the most interesting aspect of the ties. More importantly, they are made from a single square of silk, folded in on itself seven times in the traditional manner, with no lining.


Most multi-fold ties have a lining of some sort. Many that are called seven folds only do this folding at the two tips (eg Marinella) – in the middle, it would make the tie too thick with the lining in there as well.

I have tried unlined ties (eg Rubinacci, some of which are five-folds) but they produce a knot too narrow for me. The true seven-fold technique uses so much silk, often of a heavier weight, that this isn’t a problem. The silk also overlaps down the middle, so those folds count double – which is crucial to giving thickness to the tie.


I like the effect, with sufficient thickness in the knot but a light blade. (Sette ties are also self-tipped). Ideally they would be a 9 rather than 8cm width, and I don’t particularly like the thicker, cream slip stitch, which seems rather too showy. I wouldn’t necessarily say I prefer it to a lined tie either, but having the work and the silk involved is a lovely thing.

Sette is by no means the only company making seven-folds. It also tries to set itself apart by only producing limited designs – seven of a kind for ‘Pure Sette’ and 21 for ‘Classic Sette’. This, along with the construction, makes them very expensive: $445 and $245 for the two collections respectively.

And before you ask, my favourite ties are from Charvet, Marinella and Drake’s (9cm ones).

Suede shoes at the weekend

Posted on by Simon Crompton
Edward Green WeymouthThose that feel bound to wear black lace-ups during the week all too often react with scruffy old trainers at the week end. They say they’re more comfortable. They say it helps them relax. In my experience, it is more likely to make them look like a child.

There are lots of great trainers out there, Converse and Common Projects being among my favourites, so I certainly don’t dismiss them entirely. But these are worn for style, with none of the excuses listed above. Men with little to no knowledge of what makes a good or stylish trainer should look to something else instead: suede.

Rivolta made-to-order bootsBrown suede shoes are wonderfully comfortable. A nice clean pair of suede Oxfords with jeans or chinos retains a frisson of style yet doesn’t try too hard; too hard, that is, for a newspaper with kids under your feet.

Desert boots are popular with the workwear crowd for just this reason. Plus their lack of structure makes them even more comfortable. If brown is too boring, try a light gingery suede like my Rivolta boots or an unusual purple or orange. Just don’t wear suede gomminos out around town.

Alfred Sargent BrowningSome men, many of them style icons, wear nothing but suede shoes. For them, it is a consistent softening of whatever is worn above the ankles. No matter what the class of the tailoring elsewhere, the suede shoes reassure you that this is no businessman, no banker. This is a man who is happy to treat every day like the weekend.

Wear suede shoes.

Rider Boot polo modelPictures courtesy of Leffot

Alfred Dunhill bespoke glasses case

Posted on by Simon Crompton

This is the end result of a project to make the perfect glasses case, which began back in November last year when Tomasz Nosarzewski at Dunhill told me about the bespoke work he had begun doing at Bourdon House in London.

Tomasz, whom I first met in 2010 at Dunhill’s Walthamstow factory, had begun doing bespoke projects for customers following a very successful trip to the Far East. He now spends every Thursday down in central London, making cases to carry perfume sets, encase car keys and hold gym kit for men that like purple crocodile leather.

This glasses case is nowhere near as intricate or ostentatious. But it means a lot to me because I’ve found it very hard to get a well-functioning case in the right proportions, let alone anything with style. You can guess what the chances are of finding anything that is hand-sewn.

So the result is a simple but, I hope you’ll agree, beautiful piece. Slim enough to fit in a jacket’s breast pocket when needed; padded enough to protect against most things short of being stood on. In green crocodile with that inimitable saddle stitching.