The low double-breasted jacket: Its history and h...
By Aleks Cvetkovic The low double-breasted jacket is arguably one of the most romantic expressions of tailoring. There’s something about the proportions, the poise and its cinematic past that combine to make it unique. It’s also a silho...
The low double-breasted jacket: Its history and h...
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Understood. I think you might find this similar in use to a hopsack to be honest, but it would be a touch different...
Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Review
This is the first English overcoat I’ve ever had made - or a traditional one anyway. There was the topcoat from Michael Browne , but that was his own particular style and structure. And there was the wrap coat from Whitcomb & Shaftesbu...
Steven Hitchcock tweed bespoke coat: Review
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Oh good...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
At the end of last autumn, I asked Steven Hitchcock to make an overcoat - it was a little late to start thinking about it, but I hoped to be able to wear it by the end of the winter. Unfortunately my travels and Steven’s got in the way, at it ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed overcoat (And makers closi...
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I think it's nice, and indeed I've seen made up as a jacket, the texture is really good...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024. The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth peake...
The (61) bespoke tailors I have known
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Thank you for the suggestion, if I can I'd love to. One thing is that it tends to make sense to wait a couple of years or more before covering a new tailor, as many change in that time...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
Please read part one of this article, here , before this one. Without that context, setting out my priorities, this summary will likely be misleading. Everyone is different, wants different things from bespoke, and simply gets on with people differ...
Who are my favourite tailors? (Part two)
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You're very kind...
Reader profile: Patrick
Patrick Dawson is a retired news correspondent, now living in London. During his career he worked for ABC, CNN and NBC and covered the Balkans War from Kosovo, the Gulf War from Kuwait, and was the first NBC correspondent on the ground during 9/11. ...
Reader profile: Patrick
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Patrick always exhibited class and elegance in his dress style while working as a reporter in NYC. Neat, precise, and understated....
The jackets I picked for winter
A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather. I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...
The jackets I picked for winter
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I had my colours done years ago, but to be honest I can't remember. As we discussed here, I'm not sure it's that useful On picking five, have you seen the articles on that subject in the Wardrobe Building guide?...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
We used to do a lot of posts called ‘ Reader questions’. Someone asked recently what happened to them. Well, we still do them - it’s just that the site is now so big that posts normally reflect a half dozen readers asking similar ...
Adding interest to a navy blazer and grey trousers
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I think that sounds like a great decision Christoffer...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
How smart can you be without a suit or tie? Formality in tailoring is often discussed in terms of these two things. And it is true that wearing a suit rather than a jacket, and a tie rather than an open-necked shirt, will usually be smarter. But i...
The formal tieless jacket – with Steven Hit...
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Look at the bunches from harrison's, W Bill...
The guide to jacket pockets
As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn’t covere...
The guide to jacket pockets
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Yes, I think flaps work with their style as they're kind of playing with the smart and casual overlap. Mostly tailors will want to order cloth for you, so it's a supplier they know, and they'll know how much cloth. The a...
The cream shirt
There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all of an older generation, who ...
The cream shirt
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Yes I think you can - most of the time people don't even notice it's not white. I think it's as versatile as white too, so navy, grey, charcoal are all good...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
I’ve generally cautioned in the past against wearing navy tailored trousers as separates, with a jacket. This is for a few reasons. First, I know from experience that it’s an option men often go for. They’re likely to already have...
Wearing navy trousers as separates
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So nice to hear!...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it’s not quite the drape cut that A&...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
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Thanks so much for the very valuable advice, Simon!...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
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No the colours won't fade that way. I don't tend to wash them damp, but if I could be bothered to do so, they would be slightly easier to iron...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
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No, I don't wear cream trousers that much to be honest, I'd wear a charcoal, dark brown or dark navy more. No connection to being good or bad with donegal...
Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock
A couple of readers e-mailed yesterday to ask about the jacket I was wearing in the images of visiting Simonnot-Godard. It is the jacket I had made by Steven Hitchcock back in 2012 - a sky-blue tweed from Holland & Sherry's Harris Tweed bun...
Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock
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Yes, a muted colour in a brown or green would be nice...
Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...
Hello Simon I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket post.) What are the trouser colou...
Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...
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Pleased I could help Brian, but sorry it didn't turn out well for you. If it's helpful, there's a fair bit in our Guide to Suit Style that talks about things like this, and in the fabric guides that talk about materials ...
Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his ...
I return to the drape style with recognisable regularity. For those without a big chest – and not that bothered about big, wide shoulders – it is a very flattering shape. Many also forget how slim it is usually cut through the ...
Steven Hitchcock fitting: Let the tailor cut his ...
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No, as I said in that article I like it with particular things, they're just not as versatile as people think they'll be (like blue jeans would be). The thing they go with best is greys, as here...
Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies a...
My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...
Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies a...
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A tiny bit of room with some side straps......
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
Dear Simon, In a couple of months time I will be 21. This is clearly an important time in one’s life, in my case particularly as I will also be undertaking the purchase of my first bespoke suit. As a regular reader of your blog I’...
How to buy my first bespoke suit – reader q...
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Thanks Sam, great update, and great knowing how timeless this advice has been...
The style of cycling
Cycling has to be the most stylish sport in the world. It has such an elegant, innate rhythm, plus a deep design heritage, a unique culture, and some of the most beautiful settings in the world. I sat down recently with three of the leading lights at...
The style of cycling
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Probably not worth it Andrew, unfortunately....
The BTBA summer party
Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. Three Anderson & Shepp...
The BTBA summer party
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No, I'm afraid not. It looks very similar to my W Bill linen though: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/07/spanish-tailors.html...
Women’s tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
I’m asked fairly regularly by female readers about starting a version of Permanent Style for women, but in my experience there just isn’t enough out there of interest – that’s well-made, classically styled and not too middle...
Women’s tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
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Thank you...
And so is Steven Hitchcock…
Just a reminder to those in the US that were interested in seeing Steven Hitchcock, following my recent series of pieces with this ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter here. He will be in New York from this Sunday to Wednesday (20th to 23rd) with so...
And so is Steven Hitchcock…
Just a reminder to those in the US that were interested in seeing Steven Hitchcock, following my recent series of pieces with this ex-Anderson & Sheppard cutter here. He will be in New York from this Sunday to Wednesday ...
Steven Hitchcock – the final jacket
I picked up my final jacket and trousers from Steven Hitchcock last week. The result is a beautiful tweed jacket – light and comfortable but still with definite shape – and a wonderfully fitting pair of moleskins. Steven describes...
Steven Hitchcock – the final jacket
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Very few tailors do the back seam by hand, and I don't think Steven does on all his jackets either, but would have to check as it's been a while since this post....
