Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
October 6th 2021*Note: The source of the material for the trousers has been corrected, below. It was Zegna denim, not Loro Piana. Still not available though!* We haven’t done a simple outfit post in a while, so let’s talk about this one - worn for a rec...
Comfortable yet elegant: A cosy winter combination
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That sounds nice David, yes, although is it wool? Is it worsted/smooth? Are we talking a high-twist suiting-like material?...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
September 1st 2021When is it worth buying the best possible quality, and when can you economise? This, of course, was part of the subject of my book The Finest Menswear in the World , which examined what constitutes ‘quality’ in various categories of clo...
What would I buy from Massimo Dutti?
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This is a Spanish brand born in the end of the XX century. It chose an Italian name just to sell better abroad, convinced that even iniciated fashionists think that good taste is only Italian. Today, there are so many go...
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
August 27th 2021As men start to dress more casually, knitwear is becoming ever more important. It’s more often the top layer of an outfit, and so holds greater responsibility to both flatter the wearer and reflect their style. It deserves proper...
The guide to types of knitwear: Gauge, end and ply
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Yes there can be a difference, but the point about the tightness of the knit is a small one, which is why it's only mentioned in passing. The gauge makes a much bigger difference...
Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...
June 4th 2021Somehow, Jake and Anglo-Italian manage to keep relatively under the radar here in the UK, despite being one of the few classic-menswear shops keeping that spirit relevant. Perhaps it’s because they don’t actively seek out mainstream cov...
Desert boots (and knitwear, and bespoke) at Anglo...
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Thanks for posting the swatches and your opinion S. F....
Introducing: The Finest Polo
May 19th 2021This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
May 14th 2021I've come to really like these Rubato chinos, but it’s worth saying from the outset that they're not the originals. I had them narrowed after a few weeks, as I found the leg too wide. In the thigh it went from 33.5cm to 32cm, and in the hem f...
Rubato officer’s chinos: Review
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Isnt it those prices + vat? and last 3 years had the biggest inflation in recent times like everywhere? But to be fair.. i tried on jeans. Taillour mentioned they cost 305? Couple weeks later checked website. 345£, almo...
Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere
May 3rd 2021In recent weeks we’ve talked about hand-framed knitwear - the slow knitting process used on knits like the Stoffa ribbed polo and the Saman Amel cricket sweater . I’ll do a more in-depth piece on the process later, but today I wanted to...
Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere
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As far as I know, yes they are. I saw them at Pitti in January. However, bear in mind 99% of their work is for other brands, not for individuals, so they're not great on communication and perhaps particularly bad at the ...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
April 30th 20211. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...
Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats
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Thanks Simon!...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
March 31st 2021Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...
Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review
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Hopped over here from your Saman mention in the comments thread of your latest cotton sweater post. Wow, this is really, really nice. A distinct V neck that's not too snug and not too deep. The sweater has heft, but stil...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
March 17th 2021Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
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I sized up slightly, because they are quite slim....
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...
February 15th 2021The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. That era saw the growth of le...
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...
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It wasn't part of the same thing no, it came later. Nothing is timeless Joshua, I wouldn't suggest that's a good way to think about it!...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
February 8th 2021When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...
Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory
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Hello All, I recently found a cotton suit by Loro Piana in a lovely sky blue with interior jacket label identifying the fabric at Cotton Flower. Is anyone familiar with this fabric? I’m curious to its weight etc....
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
January 20th 2021This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
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Not in the near future I'm afraid Cam, no...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
December 18th 2020A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
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With the collar, it will be because its not standing up as strongly as it could, but that could be down to a combination of things, including the cut, button position, structure and placket. Sorry, it's hard to pin down ...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
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I’ve found that Brisbane moss corduroy is the best at retaining its shape and the colours are more modern. In dark blue, green or camel they look more modern and because the fabric starts out cardboard like they take a...
The mock neck
November 20th 2020I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...
The mock neck
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I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
October 12th 2020Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
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Hopefully a couple of weeks. We don't have a confirmed date yet...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
October 5th 2020I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measurements being exactly what we...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
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Yes Yes Yes For that quality level, no. You can get hand-framed which is a level up from someone like Dalmo, but what you're getting is still very good....
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
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I think that's beautiful Amit, but it is also a very particular style - I'd want to try it on to get a sense of the vintage fit...
40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London
August 21st 2020A reader recently recommended to me the made-to-measure knitwear at 40 Colori, a shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London. He has trouble getting knitwear to fit, being rather tall, and 40 Colori did a good job of making a piece to order for h...
40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London
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If I visit them ,I will pass on your greetings! Thanks Lindsay...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
July 15th 2020With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
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Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
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Hi Jacob, I guess you won't be noticed of my message but if you do see it, I would be interested to know how it went. What cloth did you choose? Was the first fit good? Has it lasted well? Always interesting to learn fro...
Introducing: The Finest Cardigan
May 27th 2020This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring. This cardigan uses...
Introducing: The Finest Cardigan
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Thank you, Simon, for replying. You are right, my mid-weight linen trousers rumple rather than crumple, and it will take a lot while before they crumble. I have a great affinity for linen clothes, and would love to try t...
