Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere

May 3rd 2021

In recent weeks we’ve talked about hand-framed knitwear - the slow knitting process used on knits like the Stoffa ribbed polo and the Saman Amel cricket sweater . I’ll do a more in-depth piece on the process later, but today I wanted to...

Dalmo made-to-measure cashmere

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As far as I know, yes they are. I saw them at Pitti in January. However, bear in mind 99% of their work is for other brands, not for individuals, so they're not great on communication and perhaps particularly bad at the ...

KnitwearMay 3rd 2021

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

April 30th 2021

1. Drake’s bright-red suede chore jacket £1195 I’ve been asked a few times over the years about these suede chore jackets from Drake’s. Personally I tend to prefer blouson styles, and chore coats in cottons, particularly vint...

Spring/Summer Top 10: Chores, shirts and sweats

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Thanks Simon!...

Casual clothing - JacketsApril 30th 2021

Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review

March 31st 2021

Last week we discussed the fit of knitwear, using the example of a vintage-styled Stoffa knit to look at the current vogue for shorter, wider cuts. This week we have an interesting contrast: another made-to-measure piece, from Saman Amel, but in a ...

Saman Amel hand-framed cricket sweater: Review

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Hopped over here from your Saman mention in the comments thread of your latest cotton sweater post. Wow, this is really, really nice. A distinct V neck that's not too snug and not too deep. The sweater has heft, but stil...

KnitwearMarch 31st 2021

Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...

March 17th 2021

Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...

Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...

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I sized up slightly, because they are quite slim....

KnitwearMarch 17th 2021

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...

February 15th 2021

The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. That era saw the growth of le...

Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...

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60s Knitwear Polos…I can recommend Scott Frazier from UK and especially Connecion Knitwear from Italy...

Casual clothing - KnitwearFebruary 15th 2021

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

February 8th 2021

When we were talking about Loro Piana on a recent post, a reader inquired about the manufacture and what I knew about it. I thought it would be interesting, therefore, to publish in full this chapter from The Finest Menswear in the World , my book f...

Behind the scenes at the Loro Piana factory

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Nothing's manufactured in Mongolia, that's where the cashmere is sourced from. As with everyone - except Loro Piana are pretty much the only one to do the sourcing themselves...

KnitwearFebruary 8th 2021

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

February 5th 2021

Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...

The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...

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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...

Casual clothing - CoatsFebruary 5th 2021

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

January 20th 2021

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...

What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?

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I think it might be good to try some darker trousers, yes...

KnitwearJanuary 20th 2021

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

December 23rd 2020

Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...

New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel

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I think you mean the review of the jacket they made for me, here, and the coverage of the trousers, here? I also covered knitwear here and a coat here...

Casual clothing - KnitwearDecember 23rd 2020

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

December 18th 2020

A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...

The height of knitwear: why necklines matter

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Cheers John...

KnitwearDecember 18th 2020

The style and price of Berg & Berg

November 25th 2020

I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...

The style and price of Berg & Berg

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I’ve found that Brisbane moss corduroy is the best at retaining its shape and the colours are more modern. In dark blue, green or camel they look more modern and because the fabric starts out cardboard like they take a...

Knitwear - StyleNovember 25th 2020

The mock neck

November 20th 2020

I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...

The mock neck

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I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...

Knitwear - November 20th 2020

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...

October 12th 2020

Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....

New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...

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I'd wear all the neturals - black, charcoal, grey, cream, then also beige and a really dark brown...

KnitwearOctober 12th 2020

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

October 5th 2020

I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measurements being exactly what we...

40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review

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Yes Yes Yes For that quality level, no. You can get hand-framed which is a level up from someone like Dalmo, but what you're getting is still very good....

Knitwear - TiesOctober 5th 2020

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

September 7th 2020

There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...

Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands

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Excellent shop, one of my favorites in London. FWIW, One thing to be careful about it to make sure you ask the price before you and the (very effective) sales staff start looking at clothing. I talked myself into a littl...

Casual clothing - CoatsSeptember 7th 2020

40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London

August 21st 2020

A reader recently recommended to me the made-to-measure knitwear at 40 Colori, a shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London. He has trouble getting knitwear to fit, being rather tall, and 40 Colori did a good job of making a piece to order for h...

40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London

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Hello Peter, Thanks for your question! Our knitwear (whether merino wool or other compositions) is knitted either with our 12 or 8 gauge machines and is available in a number of styles and textures. If you have any furth...

Knitwear - TiesAugust 21st 2020

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

July 15th 2020

With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...

The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...

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Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...

Casual clothing - CoatsJuly 15th 2020

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

July 13th 2020

  Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to real...

The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines

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Well, my first decision would be about style, as those would be quite different if the Steed is more English and sharper. That would always be the most important thing. Then, I'd go for bespoke when I could if the execut...

Coats - Hanks and scarvesJuly 13th 2020

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

May 27th 2020

This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring. This cardigan uses...

Introducing: The Finest Cardigan

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Thank you, Simon, for replying. You are right, my mid-weight linen trousers rumple rather than crumple, and it will take a lot while before they crumble. I have a great affinity for linen clothes, and would love to try t...

KnitwearMay 27th 2020

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

May 20th 2020

  Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of detail...

The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple

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It would entirely depend on how I wanted to dress Ayush, and my lifestyle...

KnitwearMay 20th 2020

Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...

April 10th 2020

Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your closet, experimenting with old ...

Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...

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It's done very well, and I do it on a wool wash in the machine...

Casual clothing - KnitwearApril 10th 2020

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

March 4th 2020

There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...

Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose

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Correction . Shirt in grey brushed cotton or a suitable light grey polo shirt ....

Denim - HatsMarch 4th 2020

Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...

February 17th 2020

It's dress-up time! In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety. In Audie's view, men too often go fo...

Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...

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Hi Michael. Most sweaters will stretch a little if worn close and therefore pushed and stretched themselves. Wool particularly. It sounds like you might need a bigger size if you're wearing them over a shirt...

Knitwear - StyleFebruary 17th 2020

Best menswear shop 2020: Dick’s, Edinburgh

February 10th 2020

  Best UK menswear store outside London: Dick's, Edinburgh Runner's up: End, Kafka, Oi Polloi, Stewart Christie, Walker Slater, The Bureau, Aero Leather One of the loveliest things about the PS awards this year was the opportunity to highl...

Best menswear shop 2020: Dick’s, Edinburgh

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I’ll be probably looking mostly for knitwear. Of course there’s Kinlough Anderson in Leith, probably the best place anywhere for lovers of Scottish kilts and traditional apparel...

KnitwearFebruary 10th 2020

How good is Uniqlo knitwear?

February 5th 2020

Best value product: Uniqlo merino knitwear Runners-up: Natalino trousers, SuitSupply tailoring   When you buy Uniqlo knitwear rather than something more expensive, what are you getting? What is it about the product - rather than where it&rs...

How good is Uniqlo knitwear?

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I happen to have bought 2 Uniqlo merino wool sweaters recently (2 tutrtle necks, 1 thin and 1 thicker) and at the same time similar models from other more luxurious brands (Gran Sasso and a couple of new DNVB's) After on...

KnitwearFebruary 5th 2020