The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
January 20th 2021This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post. Anyone that has w...
What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring?
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Not particularly to be honest. I've had it in the past and it looked dirty very quickly...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I'd just avoid synthetics whenever I could - I prefer natural materials like a ventile or waxed cotton. Nylon would be very practical though...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
December 18th 2020A couple of weeks ago we talked about necklines on knitwear - as part of the article on mock necks . I thought it would be interesting to take a closer look at this, in particular the effect of different heights of crewneck. Just as with the colla...
The height of knitwear: why necklines matter
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With the collar, it will be because its not standing up as strongly as it could, but that could be down to a combination of things, including the cut, button position, structure and placket. Sorry, it's hard to pin down ...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
November 25th 2020I’ve always liked the way Andreas Larsson at Berg & Berg designs - and styles - the clothes for the brand. In particular, I think his approach to casual chic (I’m sticking with that term) is impressive: he consistently demonstra...
The style and price of Berg & Berg
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I sadly can’t vouch for Berg and Berg *at all*, having decided to give them a go after reading coverage of them on PS. First and not a dealbreaker, but their fit is strange. The claim to be a classic cut and a true-to-...
The mock neck
November 20th 2020I’m not sure about the mock neck. It’s been having a resurgence recently - everyone is doing one, from Camoshita to Loro Piana, Margaret Howell to Inis Meain. I can’t remember the last time a style of knitwear became so ubiquitous...
The mock neck
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I don't really like that look with roll necks, but it's worse with mock necks, because you see so much of the collar. Or at least we can say, it's a more showy look that way...
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
October 12th 2020Whenever I choose not to wear a shirt, my most common alternative during the working week is a collared knit - like the Dartmoor pictured. This manages to be both elegant - mostly due to the collar and fine gauge - and very relaxed and comfortable....
New Dartmoor colour – and what to wear unde...
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Hopefully a couple of weeks. We don't have a confirmed date yet...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
October 5th 2020I’m pleased to say that the jumper and tie I had made by 40 Colori turned just as consistently and professionally as everything else I had experienced from the shop. The cashmere crewneck fits well, with the measurements being exactly what we...
40 Colori made-to-measure knitwear and tie: Review
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Not not necessarily if it was wider, more a style question. Zig zags are fun but a little quirky for me, I'd always rather have the classic...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
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Much better, but also a very different look...
40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London
August 21st 2020A reader recently recommended to me the made-to-measure knitwear at 40 Colori, a shop on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London. He has trouble getting knitwear to fit, being rather tall, and 40 Colori did a good job of making a piece to order for h...
40 Colori: Italian made-to-order, London
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I don't Christopher, sorry...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
July 15th 2020With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
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Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
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I'd say the Armoury things are a little higher in the budget, you're paying for the shop and service partly. Whether MTO or MTM works for you depends a lot on body fit that it's hard to judge remotely though...
Introducing: The Finest Cardigan
May 27th 2020This is the finest cardigan you will find, anywhere. That’s what we do with this series of knitwear pieces (like the Dartmoor): commission the finest quality possible, and design it to be the perfect partner for tailoring. This cardigan uses...
Introducing: The Finest Cardigan
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No, they were discontinued years ago I'm afraid...
The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple
May 20th 2020Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe. We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of detail over the y...
The knit polo shirt: My Summer staple
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The yarn is readily available, Loro Piana offers a full color card to customers, and it's not expensive either, €90/kg, and it's a 2/60 or something yarn, meaning you get A LOT of yarn out of the cone...
Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...
April 10th 2020Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your closet, experimenting with old ...
Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...
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It's done very well, and I do it on a wool wash in the machine...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
March 4th 2020There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
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Wool. Shetland is a type of wool (of sheep)...
Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...
February 17th 2020It's dress-up time! In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety. In Audie's view, men too often go fo...
Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...
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Hi Michael. Most sweaters will stretch a little if worn close and therefore pushed and stretched themselves. Wool particularly. It sounds like you might need a bigger size if you're wearing them over a shirt...
Best menswear shop 2020: Dick’s, Edinburgh
February 10th 2020Best UK menswear store outside London: Dick's, Edinburgh Runner's up: End, Kafka, Oi Polloi, Stewart Christie, Walker Slater, The Bureau, Aero Leather One of the loveliest things about the PS awards this year was the opportunity to highlight some i...
Best menswear shop 2020: Dick’s, Edinburgh
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I’ll be probably looking mostly for knitwear. Of course there’s Kinlough Anderson in Leith, probably the best place anywhere for lovers of Scottish kilts and traditional apparel...
How good is Uniqlo knitwear?
February 5th 2020Best value product: Uniqlo merino knitwear Runners-up: Natalino trousers, SuitSupply tailoring When you buy Uniqlo knitwear rather than something more expensive, what are you getting? What is it about the product - rather than where it’s made,...
How good is Uniqlo knitwear?
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I happen to have bought 2 Uniqlo merino wool sweaters recently (2 tutrtle necks, 1 thin and 1 thicker) and at the same time similar models from other more luxurious brands (Gran Sasso and a couple of new DNVB's) After on...
Colhay’s: Slim Scottish knitwear
January 24th 2020Colhay’s is a start-up offering Scottish knitwear in slim fits, and some smaller sizes. As unique selling points go, it’s fairly niche. I did debate whether, given that, it was worth a full article on PS. But I I think is, for a couple ...
Colhay’s: Slim Scottish knitwear
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Thanks. I'd say that looks like a much more standard, classic offering than Colhays...
Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan
December 11th 2019Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London. I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like the classic style we know fr...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
November 25th 2019I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
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I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
October 23rd 2019Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and will ever be able to pay to a...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
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I haven't seen that one in person. It looks nice though...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
Rubato knitwear: Easy elegance
September 9th 2019Last week Swedish friends Oliver Dannefalk and Carl Pers (below) launched a small collection - mostly knitwear - called Rubato. I t’s tasteful, well-made, and (like many new brands today) fills a particular niche of clothing they wanted to wea...
Rubato knitwear: Easy elegance
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I tried it, or perhaps a sample of it, the last time the guys were here. I don't think it looked cheap at all in those colours, though the style wasn't quite for me as far as I recall...
