Postcard from Paris
I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from Lock & Co; Alfred Dun...
Postcard from Paris
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It's beautiful, but as with most designer brands, only available for that season I'm afraid......
Loden top coat from Vergallo
At the end of last year I began a project to create a versatile top coat with Sartoria Vergallo – the Italian tailor based in Varese that I have used twice in the past, for a navy cashmere suit and a silk houndstooth jacket. The aim of the coat...
Loden top coat from Vergallo
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I wouldn’t stress that point. You want it to cover the jacket sleeve end, but after that a little longer or shorter is fine - it’s not like a jacket sleeve length...
The Capote – a Portuguese cape
Capes are extremely practical things. They cover all forms of clothing, from tailoring to the bulkiest knitwear, without any fussing with sleeves or fit about the waist. They are highly versatile, as well as being warm and a great cover in the rain. ...
The Capote – a Portuguese cape
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Thank you...
The bespoke pea coat – Part 2
The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how much we discuss these thin...
The bespoke pea coat – Part 2
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Nope...
Outerwear at Pitti Uomo 2013
The greatest pleasure at Pitti, of course, is discovering new things. But there are fewer than you might think. The majority of what’s on show is ready-to-wear suits, shirts and jackets, and if you have those made bespoke then they are relegate...
Outerwear at Pitti Uomo 2013
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I don't know I'm afraid Brentano....
The Tailor & Cutter – overcoats
This extract from The Tailor & Cutter from 1935 should give some ample inspiration to those considering which of the winter coats to snap up in the sales after Christmas. An interesting point to note in the styling is the prevalence of peake...
The Tailor & Cutter – overcoats
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If this weather keeps up (a December daytime temp of 10 celcius in Northern Europe!) I'll not be wearing an overcoat. I've already put it back into storage and I'm using a gabardine raincoat....
It’s time for overcoats 2
The overcoat commission from Graham Browne – a grey herringbone DB, Bateman & Ogden 600g – was ready this week. Russell returned it initially to the coatmaker because he wasn’t happy with the finishing of the pleats, but the...
It’s time for overcoats 2
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Hi Ebi, Unfortunately a lot of this is down to your physical proportions, and is subjective and depends on the style you like. To be honest, I think it's safest to look at what your tailor suggests, given their ideas of ...
It’s time for overcoats
Right, it’s definitely overcoat weather now. It’s dropped below 10 degrees in London during the day and a scarf and hat just won’t cut it. Of course, this is entirely the wrong time of the year to start thinking about a bespoke coat...
It’s time for overcoats
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It's possible. Try Graham Browne for an English structured look, or Whitcomb & Shaftesbury for a slightly drapier one and higher quality...
Of Homburgs, topcoats and fawn gloves
Something we predicted a year ago Esquire, March 1935: “In the March issue for 1934, we introduced the black Homburg to this country. We said then that it was an established English tradition, having already enjoyed, at that time, a London ...
Of Homburgs, topcoats and fawn gloves
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Isn't it better - it's certainly much easier - to wear any kind of hat with an overcoat (or raincoat) than with a suit alone? With the coat the look is classical - without it is (to me) plain anachronistic....
Shetland and covert coats
The copy of Men in Style I bought recently is proving a daily inspiration to me, so I thought I’d share some images with you here. While some of them will be familiar, they are often reproduced without the accompanying text, which is a sham...
Shetland and covert coats
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my impression on men in these coats are men with sophistication and class...usually those who are engaged in business or politics...
Fishy and polo: A photo update
I haven’t been good at posting pictures recently, so here’s an attempt to make up for it. Here we have images of the polo coat that has been documented in detail over the past few months, but of which I never posted a final image, and of ...
Fishy and polo: A photo update
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If you have the others then it should be fine. The only other thing I’d say is that camel colour is naturally quite showy - it will stand out a bit. But your other coats are quite conservative so you might be fine with...
The coat project 5
We’re almost there with the camel polo coat. Since I covered it last we’ve had a second basted fitting, where it was ripped apart again and re-cut. Then it went away to be made-up and today I had the final fitting – all complete sav...
The coat project 5
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Welted. Single vent. Probably half belt. If you do go for this more unusual style, keep the details simple...
The coat project 4
I had the first fitting last week for my bespoke overcoat – a traditional polo coat in camel hair, with the addition of a full-length pleat in the back that can be adjusted depending on what is worn underneath. (See previous instalment here.) E...
The coat project 4
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The coat project 3
Yes, that’s right. It’s a picture of me cutting the cloth for my polo coat. Russell at Graham Browne realised that I just have a natural tailor’s touch and decided I would cut the whole thing better than him. Also, he fancied a cup ...
The coat project 3
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You'd better take 3.6 meter for a suit, and 1 meter for additional trousers. I always order 3 trousers, which allows me to wear the suit for 5 consequent days (2 days rest for each trousers to hang properly)....
The coat project 2
My thanks to all of you that either commented here or emailed me about my decision on the polo coat I am having designed at Graham Browne. The response was fairly unanimous: go for double breasted as it best fits the classic style of the coat, and it...
The coat project 2
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i like the style. a unique style good color combination. ______________ double breasted blazer...
The coat project
I used to buy overcoats too small. Because I didn’t wear a jacket all the time, I picked the size that fitted over a sweater, which was too small with a jacket. Now if anything I buy overcoats too big: to make sure they fit over anything, inclu...
The coat project
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Hey Henry - all canvassed. All bespoke overcoats will be and most high-end RTW ones should be too. Cheers...
Inspiration on mannequins 2: Cesare Attolini
In my last post I got a little giddy over the colour combinations at Domenico Vacca. And with good reason. Whatever the value-for-money of his clothes, he is a master at combining the brights of menswear with background pieces that provide just enoug...
Inspiration on mannequins 2: Cesare Attolini
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Even in the event that these arrangements did not appeal to me personally(though in this case I find all of the combinations quite fabulous) I would have enough before me to envision what each piece might become. These a...
