Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear
May 20th 2016Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have many things in common. I'm a ...
Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana
December 23rd 2015Long-time readers will know how much of a fan I am of Loro Piana. In particular, of their marked commitment to quality compared to other designers – even if that comes with the same big-brand prices. I’ve worn their blousons, gilets...
Interview: Pier-Luigi Loro Piana
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It's always a pleasure...
Merz b Schwanen loopwheeler knitwear
August 24th 2015German brand Merz b Schwanen has changed quite a lot since it was taken over Peter Plotnicki (below), having been bought up, moved production and overhauled its product. But thankfully the changes have been in cut and design, rather than fabricatio...
Merz b Schwanen loopwheeler knitwear
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So, workwear manufacturers aren't necessarily aiming for neatness and precision - even if they have all the money and time in the world, they often want to produce something rough and rugged. It's like that because they ...
The knitted T-shirt
April 24th 2015It would be easy to ignore the difference between fully fashioned and normal T-shirts or polos. There aren’t many around, and the distinction is subtle. But good examples of the former create a very distinctive look. Ninety-nine per cent of ...
The knitted T-shirt
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I can't say much really Ayush, but it looks OK. Obviously I'd rather not have the logo, but you can't have everything when budget limits choice substantially...
Harris tweed jacket and jeans
November 21st 2014Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonetheless. Cloth suited to i...
Harris tweed jacket and jeans
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The tweed jacket and jeans look great. Would Blackhorse jeans work well here…they have a big variety of jeans of course. On a separate subject, I am forever fascinated at the style of well known celebrity dog trainer, ...
When we write about… Private White VC
November 19th 2014As part of the series on new shop openings in London, today we’re focusing on Private White VC – the British factory and brand founded by James Eden in 2007, but with a new shop on Duke Street and a much-expanded offering. First though,...
When we write about… Private White VC
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Storm System, but they also tend to feel rather different - wool v cotton....
Smedley’s slim-fit knitwear reviewed
November 10th 2014Readers will not be surprised that I consider the John Smedley fine-gauge knitwear the best available for wear with tailoring. Cashmere is often too delicate at this level of thinness, and fine merino is versatile enough to go deal with a broad ran...
Smedley’s slim-fit knitwear reviewed
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I wear our short-sleeved merino in just as hot weather as any cotton...but if you want cotton I'd look to Italian brands like Fedeli, Luca Faloni etc. I haven't searched for any myself, but that will be the kind of place...
Anderson & Sheppard online store opens
October 9th 2014As regular readers will know, the Anderson & Sheppard haberdashery launched by Anda Rowland and Audie Charles on Clifford Street is one of my favourite shops in London. Possibly the best single shop to open in whole 8 years this blog has be...
Anderson & Sheppard online store opens
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The fits I find OK, the designs just don't tend to appeal to me that much...
The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan
September 29th 2014If you don’t own a shawl-collar cardigan, it’s the one sweater you should invest in this winter. No other knitwear is more versatile: its collar makes it the only style that works with T-shirts, shirts or polos, for everyone. Some m...
The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan
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I have two of the shawl collared cardigans from Drake’s and a William Lockie labelled one that I bought from Richard Gelding (Baltzar). Although they look identical, they’re not in reality. The Lockie one seems to be...
Johnstons of Elgin
August 25th 2014Johnston’s is one of Scotland’s best-known and oldest knitwear companies. Most of its production is for third parties – it is the preferred supplier to several of the biggest men’s luxury brands. But it also ...
Johnstons of Elgin
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Hey - asked Graham and yes it's a Johnston's cloth, but no it's not the one from the website, as Graham had his made bespoke....
The perfect cardigan: Updates and details
August 13th 2014THE FINAGON CARDIGAN WAS PUT INTO SMEDLEY’S PERMANENT COLLECTION FOLLOWING THIS COLLABORATION. YOU CAN BUY IT ON THE SMEDLEY SITE. – Following Monday’s post on the cardigan we have developed with John Smedley –...
The perfect cardigan: Updates and details
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Yeah it's not a great ecommerce system. Pleased it worked in the end though...
The perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Sm...
August 11th 2014THE FINAGON CARDIGAN WAS PUT INTO SMEDLEY’S PERMANENT COLLECTION FOLLOWING THIS COLLABORATION. YOU CAN BUY IT ON THE SMEDLEY SITE. – Last year I began working with John Smedley on our next project – the perfect cardigan. ...
The perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Sm...
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No, I'm sorry....
Al Bazar, Milan – a style all its own
March 24th 2014I’ve known Lino Ieluzzi, the proprietor of Al Bazar in Milan, for a few years now and always admired his style. I wouldn’t wear it; I wouldn’t recommend it; but it is unique, personal and consistent. The worst thing about so-called ...
Al Bazar, Milan – a style all its own
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Thank you Simon!...
How to wear a cardigan
March 21st 2014Several readers commented in last week’s post on trousers that they would appreciate something similar on cardigans in such outfits. So here we go. I will largely be talking about sleeveless cardigans (although given we will assume they ar...
How to wear a cardigan
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Without muddying the waters too much for the non British,I would say you could use a jumper for goalposts,but not a cardigan....
How to stretch a sweater
March 5th 2014I’ve always loved little jobs that can adapt a piece of clothing or improve it. I’ve adjusted knitwear in the past to narrow it, as well as put darts in shirts, and it’s probably the reason I love polishing shoes so much. One task...
The Dartmoor in grey: Buy the perfect polo
January 20th 2014– NOW SOLD OUT – As flagged up last week, we are now offering a new edition of the Dartmoor sweater – the long-sleeved polo shirt I designed with John Smedley. You voted for our second edition to be in the mid-grey show...
The Dartmoor in grey: Buy the perfect polo
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Thank you for the swift reply!...
New Dartmoor order! But which colour do you want?
January 14th 2014– VOTING CLOSED! (Wednesday, 5pm) After a last-minute rush, grey (silver) is the winner. Thank you to everyone that voted. Orders for our exciting new grey Dartmoor – the perfect polo – will start on Monday. I will post ...
New Dartmoor order! But which colour do you want?
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With the three together, yes. And good idea to have some pattern in there so it's not all plain. Could also add with a pocket hank...
Slim-fitting knitwear at Anderson & Sheppard
October 14th 2013Most shops do not redesign the knitwear they stock. They pick colours and models, and decide which sizes to carry, but the overall design and fit is left untouched. This is perhaps understandable: they do the same with other stock such as ties and ha...
Slim-fitting knitwear at Anderson & Sheppard
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It is dressy, yes. I wouldn’t wear it with denim...
A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters
September 9th 2013I’m not great at looking after anything apart from shoes. Suits I brush down occasionally, but certainly not after every use, and knitwear rarely gets much of a look-in. In an effort to change this I recently picked up a few of the garment care...
A good tool for removing pilling from sweaters
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I know this is a very old post, but I found some of the movie's suits on Ebay, apparently all the tailoring was made by Cantarelli. Hope that helps....
Permanent Style x John Smedley: The perfect polo
June 26th 2013– NOW SOLD OUT – For anyone who likes bespoke or made-to-measure clothing, knitwear can be frustrating – particularly for wearing with that bespoke clothing, where you want the fit and finish to be as precise as the pieces ...
The Stoll cotton-collar knitter
May 15th 2013Fans of traditional weaving and knitwear brands are funny about old machines. They often equate old machinery with superior techniques, when the new machines usually do at least as good a job – just faster. Usually the reason the brand still ha...
The Stoll cotton-collar knitter
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i have use stolls for collar like 220 full/ shape callar and use cotton and polyester/cotton as well as polester.WITH MACHINES today that type machine is no longer use .SHIMA SEIKI are use as well as unversal ,or any mac...
The John Smedley drum
May 13th 2013This is the drum of the old John Smedley silver band, which sits in the newly opened Smedley archives and is the focus on my favourite anecdote from the factory’s history. Smedley was known around the region for its silver band – differen...
The John Smedley drum
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Now, as in the current time of the story....
John Smedley: the factory
May 10th 2013Last week I visited the John Smedley factory in Matlock, and it has quickly become my favourite anywhere. The oldest factory in the world still in production, it is nestled in between Derbyshire hills, with a babbling brook (the Lea) running through ...
John Smedley: the factory
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Dear Luke, would it be possible to use your pictures of John Smedley for our display. We are a little store selling John Smedley. If yes, it would be great to have get them in higher resolution. Best regards Peter...
Things I was wrong about: The sleeveless cardigan
April 8th 2013One of the disconcerting things about the growing popularity of Permanent Style is the regularity with which readers find old posts – usually via search engines – and question me about them. I dislike being called an expert today, whether...
Things I was wrong about: The sleeveless cardigan
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Yes probably...
Why sartorialists should love John Smedley
March 15th 20130 0 1 257 1471 Euromoney Institiutional Investor PLC 12 3 1725 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-styl...
Why sartorialists should love John Smedley
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Sorry, cotton and wool of course...