Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
Match in comments:
Much better, but also a very different look...
The guide to shirt collars – and what suits...
August 31st 2020With the slow disappearance of the tie from the male wardrobe, the shirt collar has become increasingly important. It now bears almost sole responsibility for framing and flattering the face. However, guides to shirt collars – such as this...
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
August 10th 2020What can I say about PS Oxford cloth at this point? I've gone through the reasons I like it so many times, most obviously in posts introducing the blue , striped and white versions. So this time I thought it might be good to focus on what customers...
Pink PS Oxford shirts available
Match in comments:
Hello Premal, probably by the end of the year....
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
July 17th 2020One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
Match in comments:
Mostly the style...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
July 15th 2020With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
Match in comments:
Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
July 13th 2020Our ‘complete capsule’ article last month went down particularly well with readers. Setting out a concentrated, versatile wardrobe, I think it provided both a good starting point for new readers and a way for older ones to realise gaps in...
The complete capsule: Prices, budgets and timelines
Match in comments:
I'd say the Armoury things are a little higher in the budget, you're paying for the shop and service partly. Whether MTO or MTM works for you depends a lot on body fit that it's hard to judge remotely though...
The cream shirt
May 11th 2020There is a certain type of gentleman who swears by the cream shirt. Who argues passionately for its elegance over that boring, corporate alternative: white. When I say there is a type, I am basing this on three men, all of an older generation, who ...
The cream shirt
Match in comments:
Yes I think you can - most of the time people don't even notice it's not white. I think it's as versatile as white too, so navy, grey, charcoal are all good...
Introducing: The Madras linen
March 13th 2020There is a certain preponderance among men to order bespoke shirts in loud checks. This must be the case, because most patterned materials offered for bespoke are bright and loud. Even though the ones available in a mill’s full collection - o...
Introducing: The Madras linen
Match in comments:
a plus one from me to bring it back!...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
January 13th 2020On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
Match in comments:
Cream can be, yes, particularly if you want to wear it casually mostly, though I wear it mostly in things like brushed cottons or cord rather than oxfords...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
January 3rd 2020I’m a relatively new convert to winter shirts. Although I’ve had brushed cottons in the past (such as my grey made by Simone Abbarchi, above) it’s only this season that I’ve started wearing heavier flannels and cords. Perhap...
The guide to winter shirt fabrics
Match in comments:
Hi Chayut, We have quite comprehensive articles on your first five suits - here for smart ones and here for casual ones. The vast majority of suits cannot be mixed and matched, but see here for an article on the ones tha...
The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting
November 29th 2019I recently went to see Wil Whiting's studio for the first time. Wil and I have chatted many times in recent years, but this was the first time I'd been to see where he works. Wil has proved himself a talented shirtmaker, despite only four years sin...
The appeal of shirtmaker Wil Whiting
Match in comments:
I'm afraid I don't Sam, sorry. The issue is always how much more work that initial shirt is...
The polo shirt under knitwear
November 27th 2019I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...
The polo shirt under knitwear
Match in comments:
I'm so sorry, I got mixed up between articles - I thought you were asking on today's article about the Finest Crewneck. (I see all comments come in on a feed, rather than on specific articles, and missed the article refe...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
October 23rd 2019Welcome to our small but regular selection of interesting things this Autumn/Winter. As ever, this is a highly personal list, which makes it both idiosyncratic and entirely without commercial angle - no one can ever and will ever be able to pay to a...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2019
Match in comments:
I haven't seen that one in person. It looks nice though...
The (21) shirtmakers I have known
October 9th 2019Three years ago, I wrote a post called ‘ The tailors I have known'. The idea was to provide a single reference point for anyone to get a run down on everyone I had tried - and links to more detail. A reader recently commented that it would be...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
September 16th 2019A denim or chambray shirt can be great with tailoring. Perhaps more than anything else, they have the ability to subvert its corporate, even dandy associations. They reliably give the appearance of being both casual and practical. The two terms, howe...
The guide to denim and chambray shirtings
Match in comments:
Hi Ayush I think the combination is very dark for summer. A lighter colour, washed denim shirt could be nice here. Although, any denim shirt is likely to be heavy, so a knitted polo sounds like a great option....
The new Lightweight Friday Polo
July 3rd 2019This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo. The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little too transparent for them. So t...
The new Lightweight Friday Polo
Match in comments:
No, there are no plans to bring that back I'm afraid...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
June 19th 2019Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
Match in comments:
Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...
The guide to summer shirt fabrics
June 7th 2019The aim of a shirt bought for summer might seem easy: to stay cool. But there are several variations here, and crossovers with styles and other functionality. This, then, is our substantive yet focused guide to buying a shirt fabric for the warmer mo...
The guide to summer shirt fabrics
Match in comments:
It depends on the yarn and the weight - broadcloth is just the weave. A very fine yarn with be more formal, shinier, often not as breathable. But in general, broadcloth is not usually sheer or transparent, and is a decen...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
Match in comments:
Yes I know, frightening isn't it?...
Everyday Denim shirts back in stock, and Lighter ...
March 25th 2019[Everyday Denim shirts available here. Lighter Denim shirts here] When you talk to craftsmen or designers about things you like in their range, there’s often a particular smile that creeps across their face. Actually, it usually starts as som...
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
March 6th 2019Akshat of 100 Hands was a little nervous before this, but he needn't have been. He is one of the most thoughtful people out there on shirts, their fit and their make. Partly, this is because he's simply been through it all: building a shirt factory ...
Video: A bespoke shirt fitting
Match in comments:
They usually start a little bigger, say 14cm more in the chest, 12cm in the waist, 14cm in the hips, and then bring it in at the first fitting if needed...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
March 1st 2019Performance fabrics are very in. Every retailer seems to be offering travel shirts that resist wrinkling, staining or soaking. Fans of classic clothing are usually sceptical about such fabrics. This is largely because they can seem like a short cut. ...
The Guide to Performance Shirtings
Match in comments:
Personally I really don't mind having slightly wrinkled shirts, though I rarely travel with menswear so it never gets all that bad. In the case of linen, I quite like the rumpled and typical look of it. Unfortunately not...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
February 8th 2019The traditional, nubby oxford fabric we developed last year has proved so popular that we’ve decided to introduce another option. It’s a little unusual in another way though, beyond the robust, textured yarn. It’s an off-white and ...
Introducing: Striped PS Oxford cloth
Match in comments:
No the colours won't fade that way. I don't tend to wash them damp, but if I could be bothered to do so, they would be slightly easier to iron...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...
December 14th 2018Thank you for waiting so patiently - particularly those on the waiting list, who were alerted to the Friday Polo's availability a couple of days ago. The Friday Polo is now back in stock, in its original four colours: navy, green, grey and white. Yo...
Amended Friday Polos in stock – and availab...
Match in comments:
I think it could look good, yes. I tend to wear them with softer cuts of tailoring, and that will be easier, but they can work with others - just keep the materials more casual, as you suggest...
Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review
December 10th 2018Now and again, a bespoke commission is almost seamless. At every fitting, you like the look of the jacket and almost nothing seems to be needed on the fit. Just as importantly, the tailor delivers what they say they will: the jacket is always ready ...
Ciro Zizolfi bespoke tweed jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Thanks!...
