Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
January 17th 2018[The votes and nominations for the Permanent Style awards closed today, by the way. Thank you for all your comments and emails. The winners will be announced next week.] At the Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence last week we had a display of five shi...
Technical details at the Shirtmakers Symposium
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Interesting Thanks again....
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
January 15th 2018Left to right: Simon Crompton, Justin Chang, Jack Sepetjian, Darren Tiernan, Silvio Albini, Luca Avitabile, Paolo Maffeis. The Shirtmakers Symposium last Wednesday went so well: great location, great speakers, great discussion. We decided this time ...
The Shirtmakers Symposium – The speakers
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I just felt the northern and southern Italian had more distinct styles, and wanted to be as international as possible so bring in Asia and the US. Would have liked to include a dozen other makers......
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
December 21st 2017The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
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I'm afraid not, sorry, I've never had that. My first thing would be to hang it somewhere to air, perhaps even outside for a few hours. As a last resort I would also approach a specialist leather cleaner...
Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in ...
December 15th 2017I’ve noticed in the past year that a lot of my favourite ties are from Shibumi. They’re always on the end of the rail; they always get picked up first. Yet I haven’t written about them for quite a while. Having Benedikt (below) in ...
Shibumi ties, Burgos shirts and tebas – in ...
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I always order shorter ties made to measure, which are not offered by many tiemakers. Shibumi offers them. But they are terribly slow with delivery. I ordered ties at the beginning of March and, after reminding them, rec...
Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trouse...
December 8th 2017It’s been so fun swapping in brands every week or two during the pop-up shop. A lot of work, but fun: it feels like a different place, a slightly different atmosphere, every weekend. On Wednesday this week we exchanged The Armoury for Drop93 -...
Edward Sexton ready-to-wear: Hollywood-top trouse...
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I'm afraid I don't know much about the make of the RTW jackets, sorry David....
High/low dressing
December 6th 2017The biggest potential pitfall with tailored dressing is looking fussy. Fussy is not sexy; it is not attractive. It is closely related to appearing ‘affected’ or ‘mannered’. Looking relaxed in clothing, on the other hand, is v...
Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium
December 4th 2017I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January. Please do RSVP to [email protected] if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed. The location is Palazzo Gondi, i...
Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium
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I think they have to say a lot ))). But anyway it’s your desision))...
Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, ...
December 1st 2017First off, I need to mention that the J.Girdwood website is finally up and active. Anyone that has been into the first or second pop-ups will have seen James (above) and his J.Girdwood range of products. They include some Permanent Style favourites...
Begg, J. Girdwood and The Rake (Chapal, Sciamat, ...
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Perhaps a mid or pale brown? Also stronger colours like oranges and reds, if that's your style...
The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit
November 20th 2017Drake's was one of the first menswear brands that really inspired me, back in the days when I'd sit in Michael Drake's study going through old decorative art books, dissecting patterns. Drake's managed to combine craft and style, deep tradition and ...
The Drake’s x Permanent Style outfit
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Not really, no...
Everyday Denim cloth available again
October 17th 2017One of the lovely things about the Everyday Denim we launched a couple of weeks ago was how quickly the cloth sold. It's always hard to know how well a new type of product will do, and I'd clearly underestimated the appetite for exclusive cloth to ...
Marol shirts – coming to London
September 29th 2017In the past year there has been a lot of promotion and discussion of Italian shirt manufacturer Marol - since it was bought into by commodities trader and menswear enthusiast Bo Yang (below). Next month, readers in London will get a chance to see th...
Factory visit: Albini shirtings
August 28th 2017Although we’ve covered several mills over the years on Permanent Style (such as Pennine, Loro Piana, Robert Noble and VBC), I’ve never visited a shirting mill. The fact that our first one was Albini was pure coincidence, but it worked ou...
Factory visit: Albini shirtings
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Hi Will. Great story, but I don't think so, no. Only a very small part of a mill's fabric is available to buy by the metre, for bespoke. Because for that to be possible the mill has to weave it all themselves, hold the s...
How to dress for very hot weather
August 16th 2017As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...
How to dress for very hot weather
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It certainly is Shem, yes, just a little harder on style and elegance. It's hard to go into all things here, but I think it becomes very much about the cut of those other pieces. Eg you want to avoid both top and bottom ...
The D’Avino shirt workshop – Somma Ve...
July 28th 2017As mentioned in our post on Marco Cerrato last week, much of the sartorial industry in Naples occurs outside the city - in the suburbs and towns of the surrounding area. Much of this is in the north-east, just above Mount Vesuvius, the still-active ...
Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street
July 14th 2017Connolly, which opened on Clifford Street at the end of last year, is one of the most interesting new menswear stores London has had for a while. It offers luxury clothing, both under its own name and a few European brands ( Charvet, Car Shoe, Stile...
Connolly: Style and fashion meet on Clifford Street
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My please Scott, really pleased it's worked well for you, and you appreciate the quality...
D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatm...
June 14th 2017I recently took delivery of a set of linen shirts from D'Avino in Naples (it's been a good quarter...) and I thought the colour selection I ended up with was interesting. I'm increasingly moving away from the more corporate colours of white and lig...
D’Avino linen shirts – in denim, oatm...
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Yeah, I guess that it is quite specific! Collar style is also a determining factor: a spread collar seems too corporate to me. I want it to look natural. Will experiment with an undyed cotton shirt....
Charvet bespoke shirt: Review
June 5th 2017First off, I would like to apologise to readers that this review has taken so long. There has simply been so much going on that it has been hard to find the time to prioritise it. Now, to Charvet. I had this shirt made last year, following two visi...
Charvet bespoke shirt: Review
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The important thing is that it reaches beyond the widest part of your seat. That makes it more likely to stay tucked in, for example when you sit down...
Shirting mills and brands explained
May 15th 2017The world of shirtings is not as confusing as suitings. As outlined in two Permanent Style pieces (on English mills and Italian mills), there is a huge variation of mills, brands and integration in tailoring cloths that can be very confusing. Shirti...
Shirting mills and brands explained
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Great article. Familiar with all the mills. Have you them all at one time or another....
Shorts, slubs and natural colours: My pieces from...
May 7th 2017As is now customary (after three seasons we can say that, right?) I picked out my favourite 10 pieces from No Man Walks Alone's stock last week. I took advantage of being in New York to go through most things in person, and there are therefore some...
Shorts, slubs and natural colours: My pieces from...
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I wish!...
Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project...
March 8th 2017Over the past 10 days I have generally prioritised writing about new brands in our Savile Row pop-up shop. But there are also new developments at makers you will be familiar with - Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Begg and the Hanger Project -...
Baudoin & Lange, Luca Faloni, Hanger Project...
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I don't hang my knits, and in general it's safest to fold them (heavier ones can lose shape if hung for long periods). I've also never really invested in hangers (see piece here). However, I would recommend Nakata hanger...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
November 4th 2016I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
Brussels craft event
October 30th 2016At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as several others. Those others are: ...
Brussels craft event
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Dear Simon, I am moving to Brussels and wanted to know if there is local bespoke tailors or if foreign ones are doing trunk shows in Brussels or other cities in Belgium. Thanks for your help KS...
D’Avino in London
September 11th 2016The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with handwork absolutely everywhere - not just the practica...
D’Avino in London
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No problem. Some points on my previous shirt posts about unfused vs fused collars, but I can do something separate on it....
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
August 29th 2016Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luc...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
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Cheers Andrew! I can't say I have though on exactly that shade of Olive. The Anglo Italian ones are pretty close...
How to dress pale colours for summer
July 27th 2016A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together – rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the...
How to dress pale colours for summer
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Andreas's is a high-twist and would work in that way, absolutely. Mine would be rather different in a high-twist I think - I had one like that years ago and it always looked a bit too colonial for me. I think that's one ...
