Hawthorne and Heaney: embroidery project

Read MoreAug 13th 2012

Last week I wrote about Claire Barrett of Hawthorne & Heaney, who does fine embroidery on livery, shirts and slippers for the bespoke menswear trade, as well as working with fashion designers in London.I came to her to learn about the process and wit...

Hawthorne and Heaney: embroidery project

Last week I wrote about Claire Barrett of Hawthorne & Heaney, who does fine embroidery on livery, shirts and slippers for the bespoke menswear trade, as well as working with fashion designers in London.I came to her to learn about the process and wit...

Aug 13th 2012

Claire Barrett, Hawthorne & Heaney

Read MoreAug 10th 2012

I do love learning about other crafts. There’s nothing like the series of ‘how’ and ‘why’ questions that takes you deeper, step by step, into understanding the way quality things are made, as well as the commercial reasons that aspects of i...

Claire Barrett, Hawthorne & Heaney

I do love learning about other crafts. There’s nothing like the series of ‘how’ and ‘why’ questions that takes you deeper, step by step, into understanding the way quality things are made, as well as the commercial reasons that aspects of i...

Aug 10th 2012

Embroidered velvet jacket: Hawthorne & Heaney

Read MoreMar 20th 2013

Following my first project with Claire Barrett, who founded embroidery company Hawthorne & Heaney last year, this was a follow-up to decorate the lapel of my Timothy Everest smoking jacket. I wasn’t entirely sure whether I liked the look of the emb...

Embroidered velvet jacket: Hawthorne & Heaney

Following my first project with Claire Barrett, who founded embroidery company Hawthorne & Heaney last year, this was a follow-up to decorate the lapel of my Timothy Everest smoking jacket. I wasn’t entirely sure whether I liked the look of the emb...

Mar 20th 2013

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

Read MoreFeb 18th 2016

  One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear.Although most cutters and tailors aren't actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke - so the fit is good - ...

BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie

  One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear.Although most cutters and tailors aren't actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke - so the fit is good - ...

Feb 18th 2016

The bespoke pea coat - Part 3

Read MoreJul 24th 2014

 The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lovely Claire (Barrett) at...

The bespoke pea coat - Part 3

 The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lovely Claire (Barrett) at...

Jul 24th 2014

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

Read MoreFeb 21st 2018

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

How great things age: Gieves & Hawkes bespoke pea coat

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

Feb 21st 2018

The bespoke pea coat - Part 5

Read MoreDec 8th 2014

 A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn't the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable sight.)So, the last post showed the ...

The bespoke pea coat - Part 5

 A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn't the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable sight.)So, the last post showed the ...

Dec 8th 2014

Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit

Read MoreJul 20th 2012

Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossibleThe linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on the wall; there is a real spirit of ...

Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit

Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossibleThe linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on the wall; there is a real spirit of ...

Jul 20th 2012

The Invention of the English Gentleman

Read MoreOct 29th 2014

 Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it – not for my small section, ob...

The Invention of the English Gentleman

 Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it – not for my small section, ob...

Oct 29th 2014

Permanent Style dinner: The Gathering

Read MoreApr 16th 2015

 These are the first pictures from our first Permanent Style dinner, which was co-hosted with Essence Lifestyle on Monday at Club Cafe Royal - part of a series we are creating called The Gathering.It was a really lovely event, bringing together so...

Permanent Style dinner: The Gathering

 These are the first pictures from our first Permanent Style dinner, which was co-hosted with Essence Lifestyle on Monday at Club Cafe Royal - part of a series we are creating called The Gathering.It was a really lovely event, bringing together so...

Apr 16th 2015

The BTBA summer party

Read MoreJul 8th 2015

  Last week was the summer party of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association, which is always a nice affair. There's a mix of cutters, coatmakers and cloth merchants, as well as the friends and family of apprentices receiving their Savile Row Be...

The BTBA summer party

  Last week was the summer party of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association, which is always a nice affair. There's a mix of cutters, coatmakers and cloth merchants, as well as the friends and family of apprentices receiving their Savile Row Be...

Jul 8th 2015

Rapid multiple borrowings: Riviera style today  

Read MoreJun 30th 2023

By Tony Sylvester. “On the pleasant shore of the French Riviera, about half way between Marseilles and the Italian border, stands a large, proud, rose-colored hotel. Deferential palms cool its flushed façade, and before it stretches a short dazzli...

Rapid multiple borrowings: Riviera style today  

By Tony Sylvester. “On the pleasant shore of the French Riviera, about half way between Marseilles and the Italian border, stands a large, proud, rose-colored hotel. Deferential palms cool its flushed façade, and before it stretches a short dazzli...

Jun 30th 2023

Reader question: Starting a new job

Read MoreApr 13th 2009

Zenith: I need to expand my wardrobe for a new job in London. I own a light charcoal, faintly blue-pinstriped French Connection suit, and a solid beige Ted Baker suit, but need:A traditional navy-blue single-breasted suitA trusted location to take my...

Reader question: Starting a new job

Zenith: I need to expand my wardrobe for a new job in London. I own a light charcoal, faintly blue-pinstriped French Connection suit, and a solid beige Ted Baker suit, but need:A traditional navy-blue single-breasted suitA trusted location to take my...

Apr 13th 2009

Hong Kong: A sartorial shopping guide

Read MoreMay 14th 2018

  Hong Kong has long been a centre for international commerce, driven by its location as a port and later by its strategic importance to the British Empire. When it was handed back to China in 1997, the city retained its vibrancy and ...

Hong Kong: A sartorial shopping guide

  Hong Kong has long been a centre for international commerce, driven by its location as a port and later by its strategic importance to the British Empire. When it was handed back to China in 1997, the city retained its vibrancy and ...

May 14th 2018

Lavabre Cadet glove maker, Paris-Millau

Read MoreMar 16th 2016

  It is rare these days that I cover someone for the first time who is genuinely a step above their peers. Yet such is the case with Lavabre Cadet. I had known of the French glove maker for several years, but never met and talked to them in pers...

Lavabre Cadet glove maker, Paris-Millau

  It is rare these days that I cover someone for the first time who is genuinely a step above their peers. Yet such is the case with Lavabre Cadet. I had known of the French glove maker for several years, but never met and talked to them in pers...

Mar 16th 2016

Building a shoe collection - the pleasures!

Read MoreDec 30th 2009

A friend of mine started investing in good shoes around six months ago. I find it reassuring that I get such vicarious pleasure out of it: perhaps I’m not as self-centred as all that. His first pair was a lovely set of mid-brown, cap-toe Derbys (ab...

Building a shoe collection - the pleasures!

A friend of mine started investing in good shoes around six months ago. I find it reassuring that I get such vicarious pleasure out of it: perhaps I’m not as self-centred as all that. His first pair was a lovely set of mid-brown, cap-toe Derbys (ab...

Dec 30th 2009

Reader question: What should I buy in London?

Read MoreJul 6th 2012

A typical ensemble at Trunk ClothiersDear Simon,My name is David and I have been a fan of your work for quite a while now. As an undergraduate business student at Northeastern University (Boston, MA), I have gradually realised a passion for good styl...

Reader question: What should I buy in London?

A typical ensemble at Trunk ClothiersDear Simon,My name is David and I have been a fan of your work for quite a while now. As an undergraduate business student at Northeastern University (Boston, MA), I have gradually realised a passion for good styl...

Jul 6th 2012

The state of British manufacturing: A debate at Private White

Read MoreMar 29th 2017

Two weeks ago, I chaired a discussion in the Private White VC shop in Mayfair around the topic of British manufacturing.It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable such talks I’ve ever done. The speakers were great, with both young and old; style...

The state of British manufacturing: A debate at Private White

Two weeks ago, I chaired a discussion in the Private White VC shop in Mayfair around the topic of British manufacturing.It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable such talks I’ve ever done. The speakers were great, with both young and old; style...

Mar 29th 2017

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Read MoreJun 23rd 2017

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

Stivaleria Savoia: Bespoke shoemaker, Milan

Stivaleria Savoia is an old Milanese bespoke bootmaker (stivaleria means bootmaker, and the company was founded by craftsmen who made for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry). The designs are classic and practical, and unlikely to set any Instagram feeds...

Jun 23rd 2017

Get the basics right - it makes a big difference

Read MoreJul 1st 2009

I am aware that as my interest in fine men’s clothes progresses, and my education improves, the subjects on which I write can become more esoteric, even academic. Witness recent posts on the Blake construction of shoes and the minutiae of darts in ...

Get the basics right - it makes a big difference

I am aware that as my interest in fine men’s clothes progresses, and my education improves, the subjects on which I write can become more esoteric, even academic. Witness recent posts on the Blake construction of shoes and the minutiae of darts in ...

Jul 1st 2009

A hidden gem in London

Read MoreJan 23rd 2008

John Rushton shoes is an oasis of personal and professional service. At the very least, it seemed like an oasis to me last Saturday. I had spent a hellish three hours in the shoe department of Selfridge’s, in the middle of the January sales. Rack u...

A hidden gem in London

John Rushton shoes is an oasis of personal and professional service. At the very least, it seemed like an oasis to me last Saturday. I had spent a hellish three hours in the shoe department of Selfridge’s, in the middle of the January sales. Rack u...

Jan 23rd 2008

Bodileys shoes - John Garner's London Collection

Read MoreApr 9th 2014

About four years ago I did a series of visits to Edward Green, which were reproduced in The Rake and in the How Great Things Age series here on the blog. One of my favourite people I met in that time was the head pattern cutter, John Garner. John had...

Bodileys shoes - John Garner's London Collection

About four years ago I did a series of visits to Edward Green, which were reproduced in The Rake and in the How Great Things Age series here on the blog. One of my favourite people I met in that time was the head pattern cutter, John Garner. John had...

Apr 9th 2014

Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests

Read MoreJan 29th 2024

It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. It was bitter...

Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests

It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. It was bitter...

Jan 29th 2024

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

Read MoreApr 20th 2022

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown.  So rejoice, there are new ideas...

The Spring Top 10: Fun, paper and lavender

It’s that time of the year again. Brands have been receiving all the spring clothing they ordered last year, even though they weren’t quite sure whether it would arrive, or be swallowed by an unexpected lockdown.  So rejoice, there are new ideas...

Apr 20th 2022

Spring/Summer Top 10 '23: Shirts, shorts and a hairy cardigan

Read MoreApr 28th 2023

It may still be cold outside (in the UK), but it’s late April and time for a write-up of the Spring/Summer pieces I’ve liked from our favourite brands.  If you have any questions about other releases from these brands (or indeed brands not featu...

Spring/Summer Top 10 '23: Shirts, shorts and a hairy cardigan

It may still be cold outside (in the UK), but it’s late April and time for a write-up of the Spring/Summer pieces I’ve liked from our favourite brands.  If you have any questions about other releases from these brands (or indeed brands not featu...

Apr 28th 2023