Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was a...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was a...
P Johnson tailoring - Review
As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in So...
P Johnson tailoring - Review
As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in So...
New York bespoke tailors - Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...
New York bespoke tailors - Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...
Best-dressed man 2019: @Gusvs9 (or, dressing simply but well)
Best-dressed non-professional 2019: @Gusvs9 Runners-up: @urbancomposition, @flannels_and_tweed @Gusvs9 doesn’t like people to know who he is. You never see his face on Instagram, and there is no biography. Such an approach is almost weird ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it's not quite the drape cut that A&S is famous for, and ...
Steven Hitchcock tweed jacket: Style Breakdown
Steven Hitchcock is perhaps still best known as the son of John Hitchcock, long the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. Steven trained there, and his style is similar to A&S. But it's not quite the drape cut that A&S is famous for, and ...
New Cifonelli jackets
No visit to Paris would be complete without dropping in on Lorenzo Cifonelli and seeing what weird and wonderful things his mind has inflicted on tailoring recently.First up was the yak jacket. I wrote about this back in February on The Rake, but I h...
New Cifonelli jackets
No visit to Paris would be complete without dropping in on Lorenzo Cifonelli and seeing what weird and wonderful things his mind has inflicted on tailoring recently.First up was the yak jacket. I wrote about this back in February on The Rake, but I h...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of t...
Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 3
The third and potentially last fitting on my Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Both jackets and trousers were being finished off, and Joe wanted to check the sleeve length before putting the buttonholes in. Those buttonholes, of course, will be some of t...
Women's tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
I’m asked fairly regularly by female readers about starting a version of Permanent Style for women, but in my experience there just isn’t enough out there of interest – that’s well-made, classically styled and not too middle-aged. They also...
Women's tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
I’m asked fairly regularly by female readers about starting a version of Permanent Style for women, but in my experience there just isn’t enough out there of interest – that’s well-made, classically styled and not too middle-aged. They also...
Gieves & Hawkes made to measure
Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don't offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioining, the fittings, and have since se...
Gieves & Hawkes made to measure
Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don't offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioining, the fittings, and have since se...
Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks
Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley.Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story - h...
Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks
Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley.Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story - h...
Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers
OK, let's break this down. There are four major choices of colour here:Trousers: greenJacket: tanTie: brownShirt: blueI put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chosen. Readers are familiar with my love of ...
Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers
OK, let's break this down. There are four major choices of colour here:Trousers: greenJacket: tanTie: brownShirt: blueI put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chosen. Readers are familiar with my love of ...
Are you for sale?
“Dear Simon. We are big admirers of Permanent Style here at Luxit PR and think that several of our brands would be a great fit. Could you let me know what your rates are for articles on the site, and what other options you have for sponsored ...
Are you for sale?
“Dear Simon. We are big admirers of Permanent Style here at Luxit PR and think that several of our brands would be a great fit. Could you let me know what your rates are for articles on the site, and what other options you have for sponsored ...
Seraphin leather jackets - factory visit
I love visiting factories. Always have done. The Best of British book made use of a lot of factory visits I did in the first five years of the blog - to Corgi, Dent’s, Sunspel etc. And The Finest Menswear in the World was a great excuse to do ...
Seraphin leather jackets - factory visit
I love visiting factories. Always have done. The Best of British book made use of a lot of factory visits I did in the first five years of the blog - to Corgi, Dent’s, Sunspel etc. And The Finest Menswear in the World was a great excuse to do ...
Edward Sexton long overcoat - finished
This is the finished charcoal overcoat from Edward Sexton, and it’s hard to over-estimate how much pleasure it gives me. It’s a very different feeling from my navy Cifonelli coat. That is practical, every day, an anonymous touch of luxury. I...
Edward Sexton long overcoat - finished
This is the finished charcoal overcoat from Edward Sexton, and it’s hard to over-estimate how much pleasure it gives me. It’s a very different feeling from my navy Cifonelli coat. That is practical, every day, an anonymous touch of luxury. I...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting.Regular readers will note that it...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting.Regular readers will note that it...
Well this is exciting
After several months of planning (and stress) I'm pleased to say that we finally announce the launch of the first Permanent Style pop-up shop. It will be held in a rather special location - numbers 34 and 35 Savile Row (the old Gary Anderson shop, s...
Well this is exciting
After several months of planning (and stress) I'm pleased to say that we finally announce the launch of the first Permanent Style pop-up shop. It will be held in a rather special location - numbers 34 and 35 Savile Row (the old Gary Anderson shop, s...
Seven levels of formality
Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well. Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...
Seven levels of formality
Understanding formality is a cornerstone of dressing well. Only when you understand that flannel is more casual than worsted, and a derby more casual than an oxford, can you begin to understand the impression clothes create - and how to put appropr...
Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo
If the suit has a future as a day-to-day item of clothing, it will surely be in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. Those, you would have to think, will be reserved for more formal wear. Suits and jackets, meanwhile, ...
Olive covert-cloth suit, from Sartoria Vergallo
If the suit has a future as a day-to-day item of clothing, it will surely be in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. Those, you would have to think, will be reserved for more formal wear. Suits and jackets, meanwhile, ...
Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery
Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery, based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets and suiting, and creating the...
Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery
Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery, based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets and suiting, and creating the...
Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat
Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop, or our UK manufacturing debate, will have seen it in person. Long, m...
Introducing: The Permanent Style trench coat
Our first collaboration this Autumn/Winter is, for me, the perfect trench coat - a limited edition of a Ventile coat being made with Private White VC. Visitors to the pop-up shop, or our UK manufacturing debate, will have seen it in person. Long, m...
We are 10! (What was your best bit?)
Ten years ago, I started a blog. It seems odd to call it a blog now - given how much Permanent Style encompasses today - but back then it was definitely a blog. It contained a lot of rants. About how there were no good magazines; about how men wo...
We are 10! (What was your best bit?)
Ten years ago, I started a blog. It seems odd to call it a blog now - given how much Permanent Style encompasses today - but back then it was definitely a blog. It contained a lot of rants. About how there were no good magazines; about how men wo...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style breakdown
Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accen...
Chittleborough & Morgan twill suit: Style breakdown
Of all the tailoring we have looked at it in this Tailor Styles series, this suit has to be the most dramatic and stylised. The lapels are big. Not just wide but rounded, ending with peaks high up the shoulder. The jacket is long, something accen...
The Permanent Style Awards 2019
What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus the artisan of the year award wh...
The Permanent Style Awards 2019
What's your favourite retail store in the US? Who produced the most inspiring lookbook of 2019? And who was the best-dressed on Instagram last year? These are the categories in this year's Permanent Style Awards. Plus the artisan of the year award wh...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, w...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, w...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style breakdown
Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edw...
Edward Sexton double-breasted flannel suit: Style breakdown
Edward Sexton is famous for bringing sexy, dramatic tailoring to Savile Row in the 1960s and 1970s, as head cutter for Tommy Nutter. Mick and Bianca Jagger in white suits, The Beatles crossing Abbey Road: these are the looks we know. And today Edw...