Making a bespoke suede jacket

December 1st 2015

Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to the questioning was how you ...

Making a bespoke suede jacket

   Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients.  Key to...

Casual clothing - JacketsDecember 1st 2015

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

October 23rd 2015

One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailoring in casual clothing, a...

Cifonelli bespoke suede jacket

   One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress. If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailori...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 23rd 2015

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

September 18th 2015

It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cleverley and Anderson &...

Launch party: The Finest Menswear in the World

   It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World.  Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closure...

September 18th 2015

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...

August 19th 2015

Edward Sexton Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in the background. This was ...

House styles and difficult customers: The Tailori...

Edward Sexton    Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the eve...

August 19th 2015

The Finest Menswear in the World

July 17th 2015

Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...

The Finest Menswear in the World

   Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in t...

July 17th 2015

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

June 22nd 2015

* Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson (Do you agree? Join in!) * These are the si...

Tailoring Symposium: the outfits

  *    Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as: Anderson & Sheppard  Cifonelli  Liverano  Edward Sexton  Panico  Richard Anderson            (Do you agree? J...

June 22nd 2015

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

June 19th 2015

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleas...

The Tailoring Symposium: six greats in one room

     “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?” Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest ple...

June 19th 2015

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...

June 12th 2015

At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and An...

Almost ready – suits being made for our Tai...

  At our  Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Li...

SuitsJune 12th 2015

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

April 15th 2015

Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone seemed to really enjoy. And we&a...

Thank you (in Cifonelli and Begg)

  Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone ...

StyleApril 15th 2015

The subtlety of a suede jacket

March 25th 2015

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but others ...

The subtlety of a suede jacket

Loro Piana I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashme...

Casual clothing - JacketsMarch 25th 2015

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies a...

February 18th 2015

My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies a...

  My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Her...

Bags - Glasses and jewelleryFebruary 18th 2015

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

January 26th 2015

For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s over. Down to details. This is...

Cifonelli double-breasted overcoat

   For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn. Right, that’s ov...

CoatsJanuary 26th 2015

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

September 5th 2014

A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine the two. The central pro...

How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

  A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine t...

CoatsSeptember 5th 2014

Five tips on bespoke suits

June 23rd 2014

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors. But a reade...

Five tips on bespoke suits

  The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from mo...

SuitsJune 23rd 2014

A bespoke tour of Paris – Corthay, Cifonell...

March 4th 2014

Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood.

A bespoke tour of Paris – Corthay, Cifonell...

Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood....

Shoes - StyleMarch 4th 2014

The Rake opens London Collections: Men

January 7th 2014

This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night and the English G...

The Rake opens London Collections: Men

This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night...

StyleJanuary 7th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in the first place. In t...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013

Cifonelli navy suit

December 6th 2013

Lorenzo Cifonelli made me this beautiful suit at the beginning of the year, and I’ve meaning to write about it ever since. He has cut two jackets for me in the past, a pale-grey cashmere DB and a green tweed SB. I gave details about both o...

Cifonelli navy suit

Lorenzo Cifonelli made me this beautiful suit at the beginning of the year, and I’ve meaning to write about it ever since.  He has cut two jackets for me in the past, a pale-grey cashmere DB and a green tweed SB. ...

SuitsDecember 6th 2013

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

November 22nd 2013

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achieved. It is a consistent str...

Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part 4

My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team have achiev...

SuitsNovember 22nd 2013

When Lorenzo met Joe

October 23rd 2013

A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to make it happen. “I...

When Lorenzo met Joe

A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to ma...

October 23rd 2013

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...

August 23rd 2013

Dear Simon, I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main seams are machine-sewn. The la...

Is a bespoke suit made entirely by hand? – ...

Dear Simon, I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main ...

Reader questions - SuitsAugust 23rd 2013

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

July 11th 2013

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within a defini...

The bespoke leather jacket: Part 1

There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative...

Casual clothingJuly 11th 2013

How to pick buttons for a suit

June 14th 2013

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...

How to pick buttons for a suit

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy th...

SuitsJune 14th 2013

Smalto: bespoke tailor, Paris

November 14th 2012

c French tailor Smalto is not talked about much by the bespoke enthusiasts of the world. Yet it is the second-biggest bespoke operation in France (after Cifonelli), has a great history – having been established by Francesco Smalto in 1962 whe...

Smalto: bespoke tailor, Paris

c   French tailor Smalto is not talked about much by the bespoke enthusiasts of the world. Yet it is the second-biggest bespoke operation in France (after Cifonelli), has a great history – having been established by F...

November 14th 2012

Picking a tailor: Reader question

November 7th 2012

Dear Mr Crompton My name is Francisco Gomez, from Colombia. I recently stumbled upon your blog and have become an avid reader of it, since I have always loved all things related to clothing, accessories etc. I am currently in the process of having my...

Picking a tailor: Reader question

Dear Mr Crompton My name is Francisco Gomez, from Colombia. I recently stumbled upon your blog and have become an avid reader of it, since I have always loved all things related to clothing, accessories etc. I am current...

Reader questionsNovember 7th 2012