Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
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I would say that the greater risk is the jacket appears a little showy or dressy with mother of pearl. It can be nice, but horn is usually better and you can have more flecks and contrast, or a slightly lighter shade, if...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
The word ‘thrift’ is not used that commonly in the UK as a verb, or an adjective. People talk about thrift as a virtue, and indeed a spendthrift (which of course means the opposite). But it is rare to hear of thrift shops, or seeking ba...
Why I buy vintage (with Levi’s 501s)
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I acquired an old Levi's bag with an upsidedown orange tag on the side of the pocket, I looked around and have never seen or found another like it. It was my mom's when she went to school...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
There are five elements I want to talk about in this outfit. Five. And I’ll take them all separately - because you can easily change one, or only like one. There’s no need to lift an outfit (or, give it the thumbs up/down) as a whole. ...
Baseball cap, white jeans and Ivy: Pick and choose
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Wool. Shetland is a type of wool (of sheep)...
The weekend capsule wardrobe
A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities. At one en...
The weekend capsule wardrobe
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No worries, sorry I couldn't be more help...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
One of the most popular posts we’ve ever written on Permanent Style was ‘Which office are you?’, back in February 2016. It showed a spectrum of outfits from T-shirt and jeans, through knitwear and flannels, up to a jacket and tie -...
Which sports-jacket office are you?
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No it hasn't...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
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Good question. I had originally taken your intended meaning to be one of practice in style, but now I read it as tailoring or design expertise. If it is the latter, then, yes, question answered....
How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans
Several readers asked how my bespoke jeans, made by Levi’s in London, have aged in the four years I’ve had them. To answer, I decided to do a shoot at the new Levi’s bespoke workshop on Great Marlborough Street, showing in detail th...
How great things age: Levi’s bespoke jeans
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I couldn't tell you much about the cuts and different styles, but in general they're not operating at the same level as the Japanese makes we cover here....
Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...
One of the reasons jacket fits and styles are so hard to describe is they cannot easily be put into numbers. Trousers, by comparison, are pretty straightforward. From the shoe up, there is: circumference at the trouser opening or bottom, at the kne...
Suit Style 8: Trouser measurements, style and pro...
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If you want that kind of clean look Daniel, yes you'll either have to go a little shorter on the cuffed trousers or a little wider. Personally I'd go a little shorter. It's either that or not have the cuffs...
Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive
The much-loved Friday Polos, which I design and produce with shirtmaker Luca Avitabile in Naples, are back in stock . Thank you to everyone that has been waiting so patiently. As per usual, we have produced them in four colours. However, as I know t...
Friday Polos back in stock – with new Olive
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Yes we have had occasionally had this, though more usually on those that wear it quite tight across the chest. The looseness and softness of the fabric is the main cause, but we are making the buttonholes slightly smalle...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
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Yes it definitely depends on the trousers, and brown will be more versatile. Navy is not great with warmer colours for instance, or with navy trousers (chinos, dark jeans)...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderful...
Summer colours: Tobacco and tan
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That bunch is no longer current I'm afraid (as with pretty much all cloths older than 2 or 3 years). Most still carry a natural or biscuit-coloured version however...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501...
Two years ago, I wrote enthusiastically about the launch of Levi’s bespoke denim service - Lot No.1. Here was the prospect of getting perfectly fitting jeans, in exactly the cut you wanted, made by a Row-trained cutter. The service provided by...
Levi’s bespoke jeans – Update and 501...
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It is pretty wide, though I wouldn't know whether they have that one I'm afraid. There is a booking service on the Levi's site now, under 'Customise' and I'm sure you can phone up to get more info. Yes, I'm considering a...
Wearing a jacket and jeans
If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital industries often have this prob...
Wearing a jacket and jeans
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It depends a little on the weight of cotton, which seasons it would work for. But I think it would certainly work with flannels, and maybe with linen if it was a lighter weight...
Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi&...
Jonathan is perhaps my perfect interviewee. He knows his craft, he knows bespoke, and given his job, he’s very interested in the crossover between tailoring and more casual clothing. – PS: Can you run through your background qu...
Interview: Jonathan Cheung, Head of Design, Levi&...
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Por favor que vuelvan los clásicos Levis 505 . (Please come back the classic Levis 505)...
Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on b...
Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in. He was right also to say that this is a defic...
Coats, gloves, shirts and jeans: Reflections on b...
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I usually take my jeans in at the waist when I get them, because my hips are much wider than my waist, and again take them in after they're worn in and stretched. I've never heard a denimhead voice an opinion on this and...
Harris tweed jacket and jeans
Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonetheless. Cloth suited to i...
Harris tweed jacket and jeans
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Grey might have a blue cast but it would be fine with this jacket, it's such a neutral. A blue shirt itself would also be fine, which kind of proves the point. If in doubt, add some other warmer brown things, eg a reddis...
How great things age: Levi’s ‘big E&#...
Denim is really beautiful in the way it frays and fades. Most cotton twills used for workwear age in this way – losing their saturation at wear points as the surface dye rubs away. But the thickness and indigo dye of denim make it particularl...
How great things age: Levi’s ‘big E&#...
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I'm not sure to be honest John, I've never thought about it...
George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column
My most recent column for How to Spend It magazine – the luxury supplement of the Financial Times – was on your friend and mine, Mr George Glasgow Jr . The name dropping was relentless, but then you can hardly expect anything else...
George woos Hollywood: latest How to Spend It column
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I wasn't, no, but I'll check it out. Saw Justin for lunch last week but it didn't come up...
Levi’s final bespoke jeans
I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twill for the way it mould...
Levi’s final bespoke jeans
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I do wear the white ones still, but not the others - because of fashion rather than fit, they simply feel too narrow to me now. I would say bespoke would be worth it for me, except the fact that I have now found two RTW ...
Hermes silk scarf with Shetland sweater
A silk scarf, tied any way, is a great way to recreate the contrast achieved by a suit and tie and keep the neck warm. The sheen of this Hermes silk scarf contrasts particularly nicely with the deep texture of a Shetland sweater. It can be worn with...
Hermes silk scarf with Shetland sweater
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I generally buy women's ones for silk like this Sohail, so they're all square 90x90...
Levi’s bespoke jeans – the making
This is the second part of this series, looking at the making of bespoke jeans in the Levi’s Lot No.1 service. Read about the commissioning, background and pricing here. The process of cutting bespoke jeans is not that dissimilar to regular...
Levi’s bespoke jeans – the making
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No, usually just one fitting. But there will be a decent wait between ordering and fitting, so it might not work with a single visit...
Levi’s bespoke jeans
A reader recently asked me about what jeans I wear. The answer is largely Albam; I’ve found the British company’s product to wear well, while the raw Japanese denim is good for getting a nice fit and a personal patina. I’ve also tri...
Levi’s bespoke jeans
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With that range of colour, I don't think it's going to matter that much which one you go with. I'd pick based on which look of jeans you like more...
Ollie Trenchard: Style and the Tailor
Where do you work? I work at Anderson and Sheppard as an apprentice coat cutter. I’ve been there for just under two and a half years. How did you get into bespoke? From a young age I developed a strong interest in the details that come toge...
Ollie Trenchard: Style and the Tailor
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£3750 for a two piece, £4250 for three...
