Ascot Shoes ‘Kaan’ cordovan shoe: Review
February 3rd 2020Last year Karl Chu offered to make me a pair of shoes under his Ascot Shoes label for review. I had known Karl (pictured below) for a while, but mostly through his hosting of bespoke shoemakers in London - such as Masaru Okuyama - in his old space ...
Ascot Shoes ‘Kaan’ cordovan shoe: Review
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No, but perhaps it's an old model, this was a while ago...
Wearing black
January 22nd 2020Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...
Wearing black
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To be honest I'm not sure Charlie - I've never worn that style of jacket in anything other than blue denim and I think it might be a bit much for me if I did...
Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review
January 1st 2020Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months. Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...
Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review
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Hi David - please see my answer on the tailoring version of this question, which you left in the comments here. I would highlight people like Dominic Casey, Nicholas Templeman or Masaru Okuyama - although there are loads...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
December 6th 2019Why should you care about a factory visit? Why care what the place is like where something is made - compared to say, the quality of it or how to wear it? Does it matter whether the place is clean or dirty, old or new? What the atmosphere is like,...
How cordovan is made, at Horween tannery, Chicago
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Some of it is sourced from places where horse is still consumed as meat, for example in parts of Canada...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
November 25th 2019I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
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I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from E...
September 20th 2019Last week, I realised I had worn my Belgravia loafers three out of the five working days. Ever keen to look after them, I never wear them on consecutive days (the leather will not fully dry out – and wears quicker when damp). ...
How great things age: The Belgravia loafer from E...
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Grant Stones, a US shoemaker could be the one!...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...
The Trench Coat with casual wear
September 13th 2019Over the past three years, Permanent Style has gradually covered more casual clothing in response to requests from readers. Guys want to know how to extend PS principles of quality, fit and simplicity to weekend clothing, and that makes sense. I&rsq...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
September 11th 2019Man, I love the pop-up shop. It's being going so long now that I know exactly what it will be like, and I look forward to the atmosphere, the chats, and the conversations with readers. It's exciting putting your products out carefully on display. It...
Blackhorse Lane, Holland and Sherry, Tusting and ...
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They did, yes. It certainly wouldn't be as long lasting as most suits - it would have to be part of a good-size wardrobe to make sense. Though of course it also depends how heavy the cloth is (fine wools don't have to be...
Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby...
September 2nd 2019I recently did this interview with Kirby Allison of The Hanger Project, as part of his Shoe Shine Sunday series. It's a little bit meandering (and my shirt seems determined to reveal more chest than anyone would want) but I think there are some inte...
Asking the next question: An interview with Kirby...
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"...if you are buying an expensive pair of shoes, why not ask the salesman to observe if they fit you well or not?" A good suggestion, but unfortunately there are a lot of people working at shoe stores - even expensive o...
Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...
May 31st 2019If you love clothes, it’s not easy to resist the call of a new season. As much as you know the value of what you own, and want to wear it forever, shiny new things are tempting. The best defence, I find, is to invest time and energy in your ex...
Giving clothes a new lease of life: The Valet, Re...
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Many thanks Lindsay...
Video: A conversation of cordwainers
May 22nd 2019Two weeks ago, Deborah Carre of Carreducker and I organised a talk among five very different shoemakers, to talk about how and why men are buying bespoke today. It was scheduled to coincide with London Craft Week, held in Carreducker's leather schoo...
Video: A conversation of cordwainers
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I've know Felix for some time. He has upscaled some rare beautiful vintage boots, multiple re-soles and re-finishes all to my rathater OCD requirements. He then made me a very beautiful pair of engineer boots with bespok...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Appreciate simon...
The shoe Super Trunk in London – and best s...
March 29th 2019Last Saturday was the Super Trunk Show in London – an event for shoe brands and enthusiasts that has been in London twice before. (It was originated in Stockholm, where the sixth iteration takes place later this year). Super Trunk is great fun...
The shoe Super Trunk in London – and best s...
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Yes, though a lot of the bespoke makers are quite flexible there. Look at Ugolini too...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling ...
March 18th 2019Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is,...
Artisan of the year 2019: Gaziano & Girling ...
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Sure, thanks, Simon....
The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review
March 4th 2019At the beginning of this year, Allan Baudoin and Bo Langeveld introduced their first fundamentally new design since the Sagan in 2016. Allan’s initial concept was a winter Sagan, which makes sense given how dependent the soft, open, low-soled ...
The Grand from Baudoin & Lange: Review
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The Ginkgo (now called Ivy, I think) in suede can be a beautiful casual look....
Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
February 13th 2019While in Florence last month, we took the opportunity to film some of the practical videos we've produced in the last year, with artisans based in the city. This is the first, with Stefano Bemer, talking about buying a first pair of bespo...
Video: Buying a pair of bespoke shoes
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That's very sad. I was quite looking forward to trying the new range at some point. Hopefully it's not a permanent closure but the above doesn't sound very auspicious....
The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with...
December 21st 2018The starting point for any decision about what shoes to wear with an outfit, is that they should be darker than the trousers. So with a charcoal trouser, a black shoe or very dark brown. With a mid-grey trouser, dark or mid-brown (below). ...
The rules and how to break them 9: Tan shoes with...
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Pleasure, thanks for letting me know...
How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine
October 22nd 2018As with the first in our shoe polishing videos, this film is more discursive than most, with context and analysis around both the talk and the demonstration. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing what they do, and coming up ...
How to polish shoes: Part 2, polish and mirror shine
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Hi J. To be honest, not soon I'm afraid. We are planning a follow-up video but it has been slow....
How to polish shoes: Part 1, context and cream
October 15th 2018For the next in our series of practical videos, I wanted to tackle shoe polishing. But, also to present it in a way that was more discursive, and explained rather than just taught. Most videos on polishing just show one person doing what they do, an...
How to polish shoes: Part 1, context and cream
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Thanks, Simon! I’m on the same page as regards smells, didn’t know what ‘source’ to use so will surely check out the blocks....
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
September 19th 2018Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...
Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Atelier...
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I think Kenjiro Suzuki has closed his business. His instagram is down, and I came by the shop the other day, it was closed at 11am....
Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling...
September 3rd 2018A few shoemakers have launched unlined or softer versions of their shoes this year, in order to try and make something more comfortable in hotter weather. Of course, completely unlined shoes with cemented soles will always be the lightest - as with ...
Summer shoe constructions; Gaziano & Girling...
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There is a series of recommendations on this post Luke. Do bear in mind that you get a lot more with a factory resole from G&G though, with the shoe going back on its original last to get shape, and so on...
Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke
July 13th 2018So, my friend Tommaso Capozzoli has this pair of shoes. They’re bespoke, by Stefano Bemer, and made in their replica Russian-reindeer leather. They seem to go with everything he wears, from grey flannel to cream linen, and have real character ...
Blue Bespoke shoes from Stefano Bemer: Value bespoke
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Thanks for your answer, this is basically a concrete point of view. I will continue reading your posts. Great work :D...
Paolo Scafora handmade shoes – Factory visi...
June 13th 2018Getting out of Naples early in the morning is not easy. Traffic is intense: bumper to bumper around the mountain roads leading out of the city, and through long, dark tunnels. By far the best way to get out is by scooter, rather than car. And that&r...
Paolo Scafora handmade shoes – Factory visi...
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I can't really say I'm afraid Steven - I don't mention it here on purpose, as they ask me not to...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
May 2nd 2018Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
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Hey Gab, They have aged pretty well, yes, though I'd say Aspesi is generally a good Italian brand but not the best quality around. The materials in the polo were good, but there was nothing that special about the make. I...
