The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Read MoreMay 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...

May 16th 2022

The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make

Read MoreJun 6th 2022

By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave worsted...

The guide to morning dress: Part two, cut and make

By Aleks Cvetkovic Welcome to the basted fitting for the bespoke morning suit by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury that we referenced in the first instalment of this series. As mentioned previously, the coat is cut in traditional black featherweave worsted...

Jun 6th 2022

Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown

Read MoreMar 22nd 2024

This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series, which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...

Edward Sexton great coat: Style Breakdown

This great coat from Edward Sexton is probably the most unusual model in this series, which has been looking at the styles of my various bespoke coats, in particular how they are cut and made. Sexton coats tend to have a bit of drama to them anyway,...

Mar 22nd 2024

The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final suit

Read MoreJul 15th 2022

y Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking like you’r...

The guide to morning dress: Part three, the final suit

y Aleks Cvetkovic Having now been to my first Royal Ascot, it strikes me that the hardest thing to do with morning dress is to get the details right, and in so doing capture a kind of comfortable ‘old school’ elegance without looking like you’r...

Jul 15th 2022

So close and yet so far: TV pundits at the FA Cup

Read MoreApr 18th 2022

The tailoring that four TV presenters were wearing this weekend - to host the first FA Cup semi-final - were an interesting illustration of what I think men find challenging in tailoring today.  For non-English readers, the FA Cup is the big knockou...

So close and yet so far: TV pundits at the FA Cup

The tailoring that four TV presenters were wearing this weekend - to host the first FA Cup semi-final - were an interesting illustration of what I think men find challenging in tailoring today.  For non-English readers, the FA Cup is the big knockou...

Apr 18th 2022

Nicoletta Caraceni on fitting Silvio Berlusconi

Read MoreJun 23rd 2023

When we went to see Nicoletta Caraceni (above) in Milan recently, she had been approached several times by the Italian media to speak about the death of Silvio Berlusconi, who was a customer for much of his life.  She didn’t want to talk on TV, bu...

Nicoletta Caraceni on fitting Silvio Berlusconi

When we went to see Nicoletta Caraceni (above) in Milan recently, she had been approached several times by the Italian media to speak about the death of Silvio Berlusconi, who was a customer for much of his life.  She didn’t want to talk on TV, bu...

Jun 23rd 2023

The style of King Charles: Top-level classic menswear

Read MoreSep 25th 2023

A friend of mine once told me about regular meetings with Prince Charles (as he then was). Assembled at Clarence House, a team of six would wait in a shockingly cold room, to the extent that anyone who was near a window could see their breath. Charle...

The style of King Charles: Top-level classic menswear

A friend of mine once told me about regular meetings with Prince Charles (as he then was). Assembled at Clarence House, a team of six would wait in a shockingly cold room, to the extent that anyone who was near a window could see their breath. Charle...

Sep 25th 2023

The contradiction of wedding dress

Read MoreMay 26th 2008

Many of those attending a wedding this summer will feel they should have some sort of summery outfit, a linen suit perhaps, or at least something sporty in pale grey. Those who turn up in their dark blue business suit will probably feel a little unde...

The contradiction of wedding dress

Many of those attending a wedding this summer will feel they should have some sort of summery outfit, a linen suit perhaps, or at least something sporty in pale grey. Those who turn up in their dark blue business suit will probably feel a little unde...

May 26th 2008

The odd waistcoat for formal occasions

Read MoreNov 2nd 2012

I recently wrote about my favourite evening combination – blue shirt and grey/silver tie with a navy or charcoal suit. This is a rather more dressy combination for formal events and dinners, making use of a waistcoat more usually worn with a mornin...

The odd waistcoat for formal occasions

I recently wrote about my favourite evening combination – blue shirt and grey/silver tie with a navy or charcoal suit. This is a rather more dressy combination for formal events and dinners, making use of a waistcoat more usually worn with a mornin...

Nov 2nd 2012

Suit style 2: The single breasted

Read MoreMay 27th 2016

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. How many buttons should I have on a single-breasted jacket? Just as hard a...

Suit style 2: The single breasted

This is the fourth article in our Guide to Suit Style. You can see the full contents so far, and browse between them, on the right-hand side of this post. How many buttons should I have on a single-breasted jacket? Just as hard a...

May 27th 2016

The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier

Read MoreJan 25th 2010

My tailor, Russell, recently lent me the tailoring book he was passed by his old boss at Kashket’s, the military tailors, when he retired. Dan and Russell still use it for reference on particularly unusual jobs like riding britches or certain coats...

The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier

My tailor, Russell, recently lent me the tailoring book he was passed by his old boss at Kashket’s, the military tailors, when he retired. Dan and Russell still use it for reference on particularly unusual jobs like riding britches or certain coats...

Jan 25th 2010

Calvo de Mora: bespoke tailor, Madrid

Read MoreOct 15th 2012

--> Calvo de Mora has a reputation for being a little younger in style that other bespoke tailors in Madrid, such as Reillo and Larrainzar. It lacks Larrainzar’s royal and political client list as well, but is the tailor for the famously well...

Calvo de Mora: bespoke tailor, Madrid

--> Calvo de Mora has a reputation for being a little younger in style that other bespoke tailors in Madrid, such as Reillo and Larrainzar. It lacks Larrainzar’s royal and political client list as well, but is the tailor for the famously well...

Oct 15th 2012

Reillo: bespoke tailor, Madrid

Read MoreOct 12th 2012

Jose Maria Reillo was one of the tailors I visited recently in Madrid. As elsewhere in the city, I was impressed by both the standard of work – which rarely gets any attention – and the innovative attitude.The Reillo style can be seen from the si...

Reillo: bespoke tailor, Madrid

Jose Maria Reillo was one of the tailors I visited recently in Madrid. As elsewhere in the city, I was impressed by both the standard of work – which rarely gets any attention – and the innovative attitude.The Reillo style can be seen from the si...

Oct 12th 2012

Two questions on wedding attire

Read MoreJan 13th 2010

It must be the season for planning weddings. Not only did one of my best friends get engaged (congratulations Henry) I had two questions this week about what to wear as a groom. KL: Mr Crompton, I’m an avid reader of your blog and I’ve loved you...

Two questions on wedding attire

It must be the season for planning weddings. Not only did one of my best friends get engaged (congratulations Henry) I had two questions this week about what to wear as a groom. KL: Mr Crompton, I’m an avid reader of your blog and I’ve loved you...

Jan 13th 2010

Sixties style, as told by Hardy Amies

Read MoreJan 30th 2008

The Victoria & Albert Museum – London’s best if you are interested in style and decoration – is running an exhibition on the Golden Age of Couture, 1947-1957. The exhibits of vintage Dior, Balenciaga and Balmain gowns are fascinating: the relen...

Sixties style, as told by Hardy Amies

The Victoria & Albert Museum – London’s best if you are interested in style and decoration – is running an exhibition on the Golden Age of Couture, 1947-1957. The exhibits of vintage Dior, Balenciaga and Balmain gowns are fascinating: the relen...

Jan 30th 2008

Giovanni Barberis Organista

Read MoreJul 31st 2013

This is Giovanni Barberis Organista, tailor to the Vitale Barberis Canonico family. The two families are only distantly related (the last two names are both surnames, indicating a split at some point). More importantly, Giovanni’s family have made ...

Giovanni Barberis Organista

This is Giovanni Barberis Organista, tailor to the Vitale Barberis Canonico family. The two families are only distantly related (the last two names are both surnames, indicating a split at some point). More importantly, Giovanni’s family have made ...

Jul 31st 2013

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Read MoreJan 8th 2020

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Michael Browne bespoke coat: Review

Permanent Style prides itself on honest reviews of clothing.  Please be reassured that this policy continues in this piece on Michael Browne. Despite the fact that there are basically no negative points. There's just hardly anything bad to say (othe...

Jan 8th 2020

Wearing odd waistcoats

Read MoreApr 1st 2015

 You're more likely to see odd waistcoats being worn badly than well.Because they usually don't fit, and nothing is less forgiving than a waistcoat. Because they are often, bizarrely, worn in bright patterns and colours. And because, essentially, m...

Wearing odd waistcoats

 You're more likely to see odd waistcoats being worn badly than well.Because they usually don't fit, and nothing is less forgiving than a waistcoat. Because they are often, bizarrely, worn in bright patterns and colours. And because, essentially, m...

Apr 1st 2015

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

Read MoreJan 9th 2017

Although as we discussed last week, the fit of a jacket is probably the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sits closest to the body, ...

Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James

Although as we discussed last week, the fit of a jacket is probably the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sits closest to the body, ...

Jan 9th 2017

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

Read MoreMar 11th 2024

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...

Why Ferdinando Caraceni is closing: An interview with Nicoletta Caraceni

Ferdinando Caraceni is one of the world's best-regarded bespoke tailors, based in Milan. It has been run since his death in 2004 by Ferdinando's daughter, Nicoletta, and they have made me three jackets over the past 10 years. You can see them and oth...

Mar 11th 2024

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Read MoreJun 19th 2019

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the parties

Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three groups: ...

Jun 19th 2019

Kilgour recreates Fred Astaire's tails

Read MoreJan 30th 2012

Just before Christmas I was in Kilgour, taking a look at a few of the new models the tailor is putting out, both in formal ready to wear and under its newly revitalised Bernard Weatherill brand.During that wander, I got chatting to cutter Del Smith a...

Kilgour recreates Fred Astaire's tails

Just before Christmas I was in Kilgour, taking a look at a few of the new models the tailor is putting out, both in formal ready to wear and under its newly revitalised Bernard Weatherill brand.During that wander, I got chatting to cutter Del Smith a...

Jan 30th 2012

Livery at Henry Poole

Read MoreJan 26th 2011

The way Keith tells it, in the late eighties the Royal Household had a decision to make. The livery of the Household and Royal Mews was in pretty poor shape. It had largely been made in 1902 (for the coronation of Edward VII), some had been remade in...

Livery at Henry Poole

The way Keith tells it, in the late eighties the Royal Household had a decision to make. The livery of the Household and Royal Mews was in pretty poor shape. It had largely been made in 1902 (for the coronation of Edward VII), some had been remade in...

Jan 26th 2011

Reader question: Covering the black tie waist

Read MoreMay 18th 2009

MC: Simon, I’m interested in your thoughts on a waistcoat pairing for my upcoming wedding. My tuxedo is single button, peak lapel (grosgrain). I have flexibility on the shirt style (wing or standard collar) and the waistcoat. Would you recommend a ...

Reader question: Covering the black tie waist

MC: Simon, I’m interested in your thoughts on a waistcoat pairing for my upcoming wedding. My tuxedo is single button, peak lapel (grosgrain). I have flexibility on the shirt style (wing or standard collar) and the waistcoat. Would you recommend a ...

May 18th 2009

The three black-tie sins

Read MoreMay 6th 2009

Criticism of what people wear to black-tie events tends to focus on obvious sins: wearing a lounge suit, wearing a coloured tie and wearing a long tie instead of a bow (though this is less objectionable than one may think). These are some of the bigg...

The three black-tie sins

Criticism of what people wear to black-tie events tends to focus on obvious sins: wearing a lounge suit, wearing a coloured tie and wearing a long tie instead of a bow (though this is less objectionable than one may think). These are some of the bigg...

May 6th 2009