Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event.  While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...

Sartoria Pasinato, in the pretty town of Vincenza in north-eastern Italy, is an interesting example of a progressive tailor that still retains bespoke traditions. Vincenza is industrial and wealthy, famous for its Palladian architecture and for the ...

Of all the tailors we visited in Japan last year, Ciccio was the one I was excited about seeing.I'd seen and tried on examples of his work on friends, and more importantly heard good things about his attitude to style and working with customers.We me...

One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence.Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not wanting to expand the workload of him and his wife...

The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country.The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers and bureaucrats, and increasingl...

Creare - to create Sentare - to feel  For Japanese tailor Satoki Kawai, these are the two most important things about making a piece of clothing - and are the reason his tailoring house combines the two in its portmanteau of a name, 'Sartoria Cres...

Australia might not be the first country anyone associates with tailoring and classic menswear, but Melbourne has a greater range than most of the rest of the country. This is partly due to the fact that it has clear seasons, with a few weeks where...

Sartoria Formosa is similar in some ways to the likes of Dalcuore or Ambrosi, in that it is a traditionally bespoke Naples house that has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent years. Five years ago it did no RTW or made to measure; today they are 5...

Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...

My leather jacket from Sartoria Melina arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I’m relieved to say the fit is good and the product excellent. I was rather worried at the fitting we had in Naples, because the canvas toile they had created was rather too...

If the suit has a future as a day-to-day item of clothing, it will surely be in more practical cloths than the fine worsteds of the past 30 years. Those, you would have to think, will be reserved for more formal wear. Suits and jackets, meanwhile, ...

As regular readers will know, I am a big fan of leather and suede outerwear - whether from the superfine Seraphin, historic Chapal or uber-modern Stoffa. I have tried, used and love them all. When it comes to tailored jackets in suede, however, I n...

Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo is one of those tailors that is always interested in new ideas. He was intrigued, therefore, by the bells and whistles I suggested putting on this houndstooth jacket we made last year. I wanted, primarily, to giv...

I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tailor....

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan trous...

I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having worn it for a few months ...

   Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting. Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll....

On the Wednesday night of my recent trip to Seoul, there was a party to celebrate the anniversary of the local cloth agency, Renovatio. The founder Sam Ahn invited everyone in the industry, and over 200 people turned up.  I have never seen so many w...

Sometimes the lapels of a jacket can get squashed in the wardrobe, making them fold at a point they’re not supposed to (the ‘break point’).  It happens particularly with jackets that have more intentional roll, such as a ‘three-roll-two’, ...

Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly me...

This coat from Liverano & Liverano in Florence has had a bit of an after life, being imitated in this tweed a fair bit, as well as spurring some to have the same coat from Liverano (despite the high cost).  It remains one of my absolute favou...

A couple of weeks ago, when our little Indian summer here in the UK came to an end, I started the process of switching my wardrobe around for colder weather.  I keep winter sweaters, roll necks, coats and heavy tweeds stored in the attic, and slowly...

James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi.  James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria...

This cashmere coat from Cifonelli, which I've had now for nine years, is similar in many ways to the two coats we’ve covered previously in this series - from Ciardi and from Liverano. There are some technical differences, however, which makes the...

First, there must be coffee. With the Italians, always coffee. Being English I find it hard to relax and chat. I want to get straight to the fitting, rather than sit down and exchange niceties. But it is a nice social ritual, and does build relation...