Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

Read MoreJan 21st 2019

In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and most peopl...

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and most peopl...

Jan 21st 2019

New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs

Read MoreJul 16th 2021

A new black version of our bullhide tote, a collaboration with Frank Clegg, goes on sale today. It’s available on the Frank Clegg site (not ours) alongside a restock of the dark brown.  I shot some pictures of it with Alex last week, and it remind...

New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs

A new black version of our bullhide tote, a collaboration with Frank Clegg, goes on sale today. It’s available on the Frank Clegg site (not ours) alongside a restock of the dark brown.  I shot some pictures of it with Alex last week, and it remind...

Jul 16th 2021

Claire Barrett, Hawthorne & Heaney

Read MoreAug 10th 2012

I do love learning about other crafts. There’s nothing like the series of ‘how’ and ‘why’ questions that takes you deeper, step by step, into understanding the way quality things are made, as well as the commercial reasons that aspects of i...

Claire Barrett, Hawthorne & Heaney

I do love learning about other crafts. There’s nothing like the series of ‘how’ and ‘why’ questions that takes you deeper, step by step, into understanding the way quality things are made, as well as the commercial reasons that aspects of i...

Aug 10th 2012

Golden Shears: Beautiful details

Read MoreMar 22nd 2011

Every year the Golden Shears throws up some wonderful pieces of tailoring design, and gratifyingly Monday's show was no exception.The little details are always what stand out. Like the buttons on a detachable cape that are hidden under the lapel, or ...

Golden Shears: Beautiful details

Every year the Golden Shears throws up some wonderful pieces of tailoring design, and gratifyingly Monday's show was no exception.The little details are always what stand out. Like the buttons on a detachable cape that are hidden under the lapel, or ...

Mar 22nd 2011

Dandy pieces in RISD Museum exhibition

Read MoreFeb 12th 2013

Beginning in April, the Museum of the Rhode Island School of Design in the US will be holding an exhibition of  clothing drawn from its archives and borrowed from sources around the world – including our own, inimitable Guy Hills and customers of...

Dandy pieces in RISD Museum exhibition

Beginning in April, the Museum of the Rhode Island School of Design in the US will be holding an exhibition of  clothing drawn from its archives and borrowed from sources around the world – including our own, inimitable Guy Hills and customers of...

Feb 12th 2013

Strong colour in accessories

Read MoreFeb 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find that smart...

Strong colour in accessories

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find that smart...

Feb 1st 2019

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4

Read MoreJan 2nd 2012

The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through the waist, to the sleeve length,...

Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4

The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through the waist, to the sleeve length,...

Jan 2nd 2012

William Fioravanti: The power tailor

Read MoreMay 1st 2023

*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...

William Fioravanti: The power tailor

*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...

May 1st 2023

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJun 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fam...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style Breakdown

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fam...

Jun 25th 2018

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

Read MoreJan 23rd 2017

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats.When we describe the benefits of gab...

The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs

The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats.When we describe the benefits of gab...

Jan 23rd 2017

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Read MoreMay 16th 2022

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...

The guide to morning dress: Part one, style

Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...

May 16th 2022

A story in suits: My history with Anderson & Sheppard

Read MoreApr 27th 2022

I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010.  As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that followed it...

A story in suits: My history with Anderson & Sheppard

I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010.  As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that followed it...

Apr 27th 2022

Corgi: Factory visit

Read MoreFeb 17th 2012

Corgi is a lovely little company, just outside Swansea in south Wales. It’s been around since 1893 and has the Prince of Wales’s royal warrant. But, more importantly, it’s one of only a few companies left in the UK doing hand-framed knitwear (t...

Corgi: Factory visit

Corgi is a lovely little company, just outside Swansea in south Wales. It’s been around since 1893 and has the Prince of Wales’s royal warrant. But, more importantly, it’s one of only a few companies left in the UK doing hand-framed knitwear (t...

Feb 17th 2012

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

Read MoreJul 3rd 2015

   My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the dau...

Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket

   My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the dau...

Jul 3rd 2015

Anderson & Sheppard DB jacket

Read MoreMay 8th 2013

I have a few Anderson & Sheppard DB suits, but no jackets. I have found that the jacket of my royal-blue flannel suit, however, works well on its own, and that led to this commission last year for a lightweight DB jacket in a brown Loro Piana cashmer...

Anderson & Sheppard DB jacket

I have a few Anderson & Sheppard DB suits, but no jackets. I have found that the jacket of my royal-blue flannel suit, however, works well on its own, and that led to this commission last year for a lightweight DB jacket in a brown Loro Piana cashmer...

May 8th 2013

Sheep on the Row

Read MoreOct 6th 2015

  There's something so calming about walking on grass. Genteel even. The second 'Sheep on the Row' day, which took place on Monday, was a lovely affair. Tailors strolling around on the turf, often with their model (wearing a bespoke creation) near...

Sheep on the Row

  There's something so calming about walking on grass. Genteel even. The second 'Sheep on the Row' day, which took place on Monday, was a lovely affair. Tailors strolling around on the turf, often with their model (wearing a bespoke creation) near...

Oct 6th 2015

Stockholm: A sartorial shopping guide

Read MoreDec 14th 2015

   Swedes may be the best-dressed men on earth. At their best, they combine the classicism of the English with the flair of the Italians - without the stuffiness of the former or showiness of the latter.  (Don't let it go to your head guys. Th...

Stockholm: A sartorial shopping guide

   Swedes may be the best-dressed men on earth. At their best, they combine the classicism of the English with the flair of the Italians - without the stuffiness of the former or showiness of the latter.  (Don't let it go to your head guys. Th...

Dec 14th 2015

If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection

Read MoreApr 29th 2019

These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here.  When you first sta...

If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection

These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here.  When you first sta...

Apr 29th 2019

How relevant is 80s Armani?

Read MoreJul 2nd 2021

By Tony Sylvester It might seem counterintuitive to be talking about past fads or subcultures on a platform named Permanent Style. But while it is certainly admirable for a man to build a wardrobe around the timeless and perennial, it would be foolis...

How relevant is 80s Armani?

By Tony Sylvester It might seem counterintuitive to be talking about past fads or subcultures on a platform named Permanent Style. But while it is certainly admirable for a man to build a wardrobe around the timeless and perennial, it would be foolis...

Jul 2nd 2021

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Read MoreJun 14th 2019

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...

Jun 14th 2019

A nice, small boutonniere

Read MoreJun 14th 2010

Wearing a flower in your buttonhole is a lovely extravagance that can be justified by events like weddings, Easter celebrations and formal sporting meetings. If you’re going to wear one, I recommend keeping it discreet. Rather like a pocket hand...

A nice, small boutonniere

Wearing a flower in your buttonhole is a lovely extravagance that can be justified by events like weddings, Easter celebrations and formal sporting meetings. If you’re going to wear one, I recommend keeping it discreet. Rather like a pocket hand...

Jun 14th 2010

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

Read MoreApr 11th 2018

  In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of the process ...

The guide to shirting weaves and designs

  In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of the process ...

Apr 11th 2018

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth

Read MoreJun 1st 2011

The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...

Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth

The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...

Jun 1st 2011

Interview: Umberto Angeloni, Caruso

Read MoreFeb 10th 2014

  Until a few years ago, Caruso was little known to consumers. The Italian manufacturer made high-end suits for some of the best luxury brands, with particular strengths in design and finishing.  In 2009, when Umberto Angeloni took over, it began...

Interview: Umberto Angeloni, Caruso

  Until a few years ago, Caruso was little known to consumers. The Italian manufacturer made high-end suits for some of the best luxury brands, with particular strengths in design and finishing.  In 2009, when Umberto Angeloni took over, it began...

Feb 10th 2014

Kiton's Lasa - bespoke or made-to-measure?

Read MoreOct 10th 2014

 The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that dis...

Kiton's Lasa - bespoke or made-to-measure?

 The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that dis...

Oct 10th 2014