Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and most peopl...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capacity, and most peopl...
New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs
A new black version of our bullhide tote, a collaboration with Frank Clegg, goes on sale today. It’s available on the Frank Clegg site (not ours) alongside a restock of the dark brown. I shot some pictures of it with Alex last week, and it remind...
New black bullskin tote, and angled DBs
A new black version of our bullhide tote, a collaboration with Frank Clegg, goes on sale today. It’s available on the Frank Clegg site (not ours) alongside a restock of the dark brown. I shot some pictures of it with Alex last week, and it remind...
Claire Barrett, Hawthorne & Heaney
I do love learning about other crafts. There’s nothing like the series of ‘how’ and ‘why’ questions that takes you deeper, step by step, into understanding the way quality things are made, as well as the commercial reasons that aspects of i...
Claire Barrett, Hawthorne & Heaney
I do love learning about other crafts. There’s nothing like the series of ‘how’ and ‘why’ questions that takes you deeper, step by step, into understanding the way quality things are made, as well as the commercial reasons that aspects of i...
Golden Shears: Beautiful details
Every year the Golden Shears throws up some wonderful pieces of tailoring design, and gratifyingly Monday's show was no exception.The little details are always what stand out. Like the buttons on a detachable cape that are hidden under the lapel, or ...
Golden Shears: Beautiful details
Every year the Golden Shears throws up some wonderful pieces of tailoring design, and gratifyingly Monday's show was no exception.The little details are always what stand out. Like the buttons on a detachable cape that are hidden under the lapel, or ...
Dandy pieces in RISD Museum exhibition
Beginning in April, the Museum of the Rhode Island School of Design in the US will be holding an exhibition of clothing drawn from its archives and borrowed from sources around the world – including our own, inimitable Guy Hills and customers of...
Dandy pieces in RISD Museum exhibition
Beginning in April, the Museum of the Rhode Island School of Design in the US will be holding an exhibition of clothing drawn from its archives and borrowed from sources around the world – including our own, inimitable Guy Hills and customers of...
Strong colour in accessories
The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find that smart...
Strong colour in accessories
The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find that smart...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4
The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through the waist, to the sleeve length,...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4
The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through the waist, to the sleeve length,...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...
William Fioravanti: The power tailor
*This article is part of a series that looks at the history of New York’s bespoke tailoring. You can see the first, introductory article, here* By Manish Puri “Ready-made men’s wear was never more varied. Nevertheless, an increasing number of ...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style Breakdown
This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fam...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style Breakdown
This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fam...
The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs
The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats.When we describe the benefits of gab...
The guide to cloth: Weaves and designs
The next in our series on Cloth is a guide to weaves and to designs. As with the A-Z this is meant as a reference tool, which we will link to as we publish more detailed pieces about trousers, jackets or overcoats.When we describe the benefits of gab...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, I as...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson & Sheppard
I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that followed it...
A story in suits: My history with Anderson & Sheppard
I had my first suit made at Anderson & Sheppard 12 years ago, in 2010. As I begin a series looking at the making of a new A&S jacket, I thought it would be interesting, even fun, to look back at that first suit and the ones that followed it...
Corgi: Factory visit
Corgi is a lovely little company, just outside Swansea in south Wales. It’s been around since 1893 and has the Prince of Wales’s royal warrant. But, more importantly, it’s one of only a few companies left in the UK doing hand-framed knitwear (t...
Corgi: Factory visit
Corgi is a lovely little company, just outside Swansea in south Wales. It’s been around since 1893 and has the Prince of Wales’s royal warrant. But, more importantly, it’s one of only a few companies left in the UK doing hand-framed knitwear (t...
Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket
My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the dau...
Ferdinando Caraceni bespoke cashmere jacket
My final jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan is superb in many ways, including fit, make and finish. The style, however, is interesting and not necessarily what I expected. I started this project last year with Nicoletta Caraceni, the dau...
Anderson & Sheppard DB jacket
I have a few Anderson & Sheppard DB suits, but no jackets. I have found that the jacket of my royal-blue flannel suit, however, works well on its own, and that led to this commission last year for a lightweight DB jacket in a brown Loro Piana cashmer...
Anderson & Sheppard DB jacket
I have a few Anderson & Sheppard DB suits, but no jackets. I have found that the jacket of my royal-blue flannel suit, however, works well on its own, and that led to this commission last year for a lightweight DB jacket in a brown Loro Piana cashmer...
Sheep on the Row
There's something so calming about walking on grass. Genteel even. The second 'Sheep on the Row' day, which took place on Monday, was a lovely affair. Tailors strolling around on the turf, often with their model (wearing a bespoke creation) near...
Sheep on the Row
There's something so calming about walking on grass. Genteel even. The second 'Sheep on the Row' day, which took place on Monday, was a lovely affair. Tailors strolling around on the turf, often with their model (wearing a bespoke creation) near...
Stockholm: A sartorial shopping guide
Swedes may be the best-dressed men on earth. At their best, they combine the classicism of the English with the flair of the Italians - without the stuffiness of the former or showiness of the latter. (Don't let it go to your head guys. Th...
Stockholm: A sartorial shopping guide
Swedes may be the best-dressed men on earth. At their best, they combine the classicism of the English with the flair of the Italians - without the stuffiness of the former or showiness of the latter. (Don't let it go to your head guys. Th...
If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection
These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here. When you first sta...
If you only had five business suits: A capsule collection
These 'Building a Wardrobe' pieces have now been collected into a Guide, which will expand over time. You can see the list at the right (on desktop), at the bottom of this post (on mobile) or simply on its own page here. When you first sta...
How relevant is 80s Armani?
By Tony Sylvester It might seem counterintuitive to be talking about past fads or subcultures on a platform named Permanent Style. But while it is certainly admirable for a man to build a wardrobe around the timeless and perennial, it would be foolis...
How relevant is 80s Armani?
By Tony Sylvester It might seem counterintuitive to be talking about past fads or subcultures on a platform named Permanent Style. But while it is certainly admirable for a man to build a wardrobe around the timeless and perennial, it would be foolis...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They're still based in the family home, even though recently they've expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That's down largely to the father’s ba...
A nice, small boutonniere
Wearing a flower in your buttonhole is a lovely extravagance that can be justified by events like weddings, Easter celebrations and formal sporting meetings. If you’re going to wear one, I recommend keeping it discreet. Rather like a pocket hand...
A nice, small boutonniere
Wearing a flower in your buttonhole is a lovely extravagance that can be justified by events like weddings, Easter celebrations and formal sporting meetings. If you’re going to wear one, I recommend keeping it discreet. Rather like a pocket hand...
The guide to shirting weaves and designs
In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of the process ...
The guide to shirting weaves and designs
In this next article in our series on shirtings, we describe and define the different types of fabric (oxford, chambray, denim) with both text descriptions and illustrations. They are set out in groups by the part of the process ...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth
The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...
Rubinacci cashmere jacket 1: Cloth
The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to see it being made. For ...
Interview: Umberto Angeloni, Caruso
Until a few years ago, Caruso was little known to consumers. The Italian manufacturer made high-end suits for some of the best luxury brands, with particular strengths in design and finishing. In 2009, when Umberto Angeloni took over, it began...
Interview: Umberto Angeloni, Caruso
Until a few years ago, Caruso was little known to consumers. The Italian manufacturer made high-end suits for some of the best luxury brands, with particular strengths in design and finishing. In 2009, when Umberto Angeloni took over, it began...
Kiton's Lasa - bespoke or made-to-measure?
The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that dis...
Kiton's Lasa - bespoke or made-to-measure?
The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question highlights the few points of ambiguity in that dis...