Consider a charcoal tie
Conservative accessories are a great thing to master. First, because the acquisition of unusual clothing – such as cord suits or purple jackets – requires something effective to balance it. And second, because dressing extremely conservatively ??...
Consider a charcoal tie
Conservative accessories are a great thing to master. First, because the acquisition of unusual clothing – such as cord suits or purple jackets – requires something effective to balance it. And second, because dressing extremely conservatively ??...
Bigi ties - Milan workshop
Bigi is in many ways what Drake's used to be before the expansion of its retail and collection: a small brand and a top-line tie manufacturer making for the world's top stores. A third generation company, it has a workshop in the south of Milan run ...
Bigi ties - Milan workshop
Bigi is in many ways what Drake's used to be before the expansion of its retail and collection: a small brand and a top-line tie manufacturer making for the world's top stores. A third generation company, it has a workshop in the south of Milan run ...
Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama
There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...
Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama
There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there i...
Buying a modern man bag
Dear Simon,I have been wearing a messenger bag for some time for commuting as it's a very handy way of containing all the bulk and occasional papers that I have to cart around with me.However, I have worried for some time about the potential impact o...
Buying a modern man bag
Dear Simon,I have been wearing a messenger bag for some time for commuting as it's a very handy way of containing all the bulk and occasional papers that I have to cart around with me.However, I have worried for some time about the potential impact o...
Edward Green Top Drawer
An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had worn. So what have I learned in ...
Edward Green Top Drawer
An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had worn. So what have I learned in ...
Stivaleria Savoia bespoke shoes: Review
When I cover an artisan where I’m genuinely interested in the product - its quality, design and often heritage or story, I have something made. I then tend to cover the maker in one, initial post that explains their product and background; and a s...
Stivaleria Savoia bespoke shoes: Review
When I cover an artisan where I’m genuinely interested in the product - its quality, design and often heritage or story, I have something made. I then tend to cover the maker in one, initial post that explains their product and background; and a s...
Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks
Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley.Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story - h...
Cleverley Russian-reindeer double monks
Projects begun long-ago all seem to be rushing the finishing line at the same time. First it was the pea coat, and now these much-anticipated reindeer monks from Cleverley.Lovers of bespoke shoes will be familiar with the Russian reindeer story - h...
J Adler bespoke shoes: review
In Autumn last year, John from J Adler Shoes asked if I would review his bespoke shoes in return for a review. I don’t normally take up such offers, particularly for lower-end shoes such as these, but I was interested in Adler's unusual fit pr...
J Adler bespoke shoes: review
In Autumn last year, John from J Adler Shoes asked if I would review his bespoke shoes in return for a review. I don’t normally take up such offers, particularly for lower-end shoes such as these, but I was interested in Adler's unusual fit pr...
How shoes should fit
I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit.Let's start with a simple summary. A shoe should be tight at the back and lo...
How shoes should fit
I have received a few questions on this 2009 post about how shoes wear over time recently, and note that there is no post that sets out the basics of how a shoe should fit.Let's start with a simple summary. A shoe should be tight at the back and lo...
Outfits I got wrong
Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Outfits I got wrong
Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Shoe shoot for Free and Easy
Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They're doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Photos of that next month when the magaz...
Shoe shoot for Free and Easy
Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They're doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Photos of that next month when the magaz...
Leffot shoes: New York is hooked
My first visit in New York was, naturally, to the shoe store Leffot. When I was in New York four years ago, I stumbled across Steven Taffel’s new shop the month it opened. At that point you couldn’t get half the brands that he stocked – Corthay...
Leffot shoes: New York is hooked
My first visit in New York was, naturally, to the shoe store Leffot. When I was in New York four years ago, I stumbled across Steven Taffel’s new shop the month it opened. At that point you couldn’t get half the brands that he stocked – Corthay...
Naples, Kiton: suits
My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella like it. All of the hundreds of staff e...
Naples, Kiton: suits
My most extensive visit while in Naples this week was around Kiton’s factory, which is just outside the city. It is a big, well-aired facility that serves a frankly cracking lunch. I’ve never had mozzarella like it. All of the hundreds of staff e...
Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 8
Finally, I get to put my GJ Cleverley shoes on. This is the first fitting, following the shoe being lasted and a welt sewn on by Andy last month. The shoe has no sole, but the welt is sewn around the front and braced at the back, with a temporar...
Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 8
Finally, I get to put my GJ Cleverley shoes on. This is the first fitting, following the shoe being lasted and a welt sewn on by Andy last month. The shoe has no sole, but the welt is sewn around the front and braced at the back, with a temporar...
Cheap bespoke - too good to be true?
Entirely handmade shoes are not cheap. The high-end benchmade shoes are hand-clicked and hand-lasted, but not hand-welted. In this country, most of the entirely handmade ones are made bespoke. And that makes them even more expensive, as the shoe is b...
Cheap bespoke - too good to be true?
Entirely handmade shoes are not cheap. The high-end benchmade shoes are hand-clicked and hand-lasted, but not hand-welted. In this country, most of the entirely handmade ones are made bespoke. And that makes them even more expensive, as the shoe is b...
The bespoke pea coat - Part 2
The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how much we discuss these thin...
The bespoke pea coat - Part 2
The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how much we discuss these thin...
Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots
As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...
Tim Little: bespoke Chelsea boots
As mentioned back in October, I recently had a pair of bespoke Chelsea boots made by Tim Little – the owner of Grenson shoes, who also runs a smaller label under his own name.I was interested in Tim’s bespoke offering primarily for the cost. At...
How to buy a quality leather bag
Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, will look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an individual patina from ...
How to buy a quality leather bag
Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, will look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an individual patina from ...
How to wear trainers - 1: Design
Designer trainers - or sneakers as our American friends call them - are all the rage. A cynic would say that's because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed product. An optimist would say it’s a reflectio...
How to wear trainers - 1: Design
Designer trainers - or sneakers as our American friends call them - are all the rage. A cynic would say that's because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed product. An optimist would say it’s a reflectio...
Saint Crispin's shoes - Review
If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lac...
Saint Crispin's shoes - Review
If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lac...
We're open!
You know how you wake up at 4am, with thoughts of bag sizes, invitations and lease contracts running round your head? And then, how the extremely unhelpful thought occurs: What if no one comes? What if I’m just standing there in an empty shop, ...
We're open!
You know how you wake up at 4am, with thoughts of bag sizes, invitations and lease contracts running round your head? And then, how the extremely unhelpful thought occurs: What if no one comes? What if I’m just standing there in an empty shop, ...
The Armoury: Do you know about the trousers?
For many reasons - personal, business, product, sheer beauty of execution - I’ve long been a fan of The Armoury. They were therefore one brand I was particularly excited to get into our Savile Row pop-up shop. However, the things I wanted to fe...
The Armoury: Do you know about the trousers?
For many reasons - personal, business, product, sheer beauty of execution - I’ve long been a fan of The Armoury. They were therefore one brand I was particularly excited to get into our Savile Row pop-up shop. However, the things I wanted to fe...
Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes - factory visit
Enzo Bonafé is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in the region. It has been a rap...
Enzo Bonafe hand-welted shoes - factory visit
Enzo Bonafé is one of only two men’s shoe factories left in the area around Bologna, Italy. The other is Testoni, and when Enzo left Testoni to set up his own factory, in 1963, there were more than 40 factories in the region. It has been a rap...
Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium
I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January. Please do RSVP to [email protected] if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed. The location is Palazzo Gondi, ...
Shirtmakers and details announced for the Symposium
I'm pleased to say we have all the details confirmed for our Shirtmakers Symposium in Florence this January. Please do RSVP to [email protected] if you would like to attend. We expect it to be quite packed. The location is Palazzo Gondi, ...