My colours in the Baudoin & Lange ‘Ginkgo’ loafer
Baudoin & Lange recently launched a new, perhaps more conventional range to their shoes, called the Ginkgo.
Allan asked me if I'd like to pick a colour or two of suede to make up in this style, and offer as part of the collection - as I did with the classic Sagans a few years ago.
I really enjoyed the process last time, adding the Bark Grey to the more B&L classic colours. It was interesting seeking out something that would be useful, yet unexpected.
So I happily agreed with the Ginkgo, and spent a few weeks back in the Spring going back and forth with suedes and deerskins, before sampling a handful.
The two shown here are the ones I went for: similar but subtly different shades of suede, which we're calling Pecan (below, top) and Walnut (below that).
The Ginkgo range is heavy on the neutrals, with creams, caramels and beige, and has classic black and brown as well as a couple of greens.
But most of the loafers I wear are brown, and with Summer shoes, some variation around a mid-brown; though nothing too pale, as they have to be worn with paler trousers or would create a rather strong look with something darker.
So several of my samples were shades of mid-brown, and these are my two favourites.
The walnut is a more classic mid-brown: warm in tone and something readers will be more familiar with from other, welted shoes.
The pecan is a little paler and colder. There’s more yellow in the mix, even a slight green cast.
Interestingly, though, of the two styles, I find I’m wearing the pecan most. It’s lovely with light colours such as the pale-biscuit linen shown here, but also good with mid-greys and all shades of green.
The walnut is a better partner to navy and other blues, though also sits nicely with grey, with pale colours and with darker greens.
The walnut has also been made up with a darker sole and heel, which suits it more and makes it a bit more classic.
Both are available on the Baudoin & Lange site, in their normal size range.
I described the Ginkgo as more conventional than the original Sagan, and I think that’s a good way to think about it.
The original Sagan is a very soft, unlined shoe, which is great in the Summer when lightness is a priority. But I know it's also a little too soft, perhaps even a little feminine, for some.
The Ginkgo is more like a normal cemented loafer in this respect. It’s lined (though in very thin leather) and uses a calf suede rather than lamb. Those two combine to make it look more substantial, as well as actually being more robust.
I can imagine the style will have a slightly broader appeal than the classic Sagans: more mainstream, less niche.
Interestingly, when you have lined lambskin, that’s often when shoes look the most delicate. The kind of super-soft, floppy loafers sold by Italian designer brands like Dolce & Gabbana or Gucci are usually in that combination.
The calf, the lining and the strap all make the Ginkgo more expensive than the original Sagan, which I can imagine will put them out of the reach of some: £390 rather than £325.
But as with the lambskin Sagan, you can’t argue with the quality of the materials. The suede on the Ginkgos is particularly nice - a small calf, with a lovely soft nap. (The Italians call this type ‘scritto’, describing the fact that the nap means you can write in it with your finger.)
And as a reader commented recently, the design of the strap is appealing. It’s wide, but softer at the corners than the one on the Sagan Grand, which is sharper and looks smarter.
Pictured here with the two Ginkgos is my navy knitted T-shirt from the Anthology, recommended recently in the Summer Top Five.
The design was tweaked slightly to make the body longer, and as a result it's wearable with both mid- and high-rise trousers. That's not necessary with these trousers though, as they're the higher waisted Hollywood tops, from Edward Sexton. More on those here.
Readers following Permanent Style on Instagram will also have noted I recently talked about a similar outfit, in navy and cream, as perhaps an example of casual chic. It's a very simple combination, yet well-fitted, high quality, and not without personality.
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Very nice shoes!I am thinking about purchasing the Gingko.It looks to me very similar to the low slung Sagan the only style difference being the strap which as you say makes it look like a more conventional loafer.Is my assumption correct Simon or are there style points that I can’t spot from the photos?
That’s the big style difference, but there are a lot of other differences in leather and lining that make it look more like a conventional cemented loafer, as mentioned in the piece
Beautiful colours. I think they are handily my two favourite options for the Gingko (followed by Pinede, which looks lovely but less flexible).
Given the summer shoe article earlier this week, would you regard the Gingko as a substitute for the Sagan, the LHS or the conventional loafer (or none of the above)?
For the Sagan probably – an alternative for those that want something more conventional
Asked another way would you view the Ginkgo or LHS as more “”casual”? And which of the two less “dainty”? I was just about to pull the trigger on a snuff suede pair of the LHS when I saw this post. I really like the color of the pecan Ginkgo better than the snuff LHS, but I’m concerned about the profile. I have a pair of Sagan’s and while I love the bark grey suede, I’ve literally never worn them as I’m in the camp that finds them too dainty and somewhat effeminate for my tastes (they look great on others, but just don’t work on me unfortunately). Your thoughts would be appreciated.
I think you’ll probably find the Gingkos the same in that case, Marco. They’re fundamentally the same look and style – it’s a small variation, certainly compared to the much more casual LHS.
The LHS is much more casual and much less dainty
Thanks Simon, I appreciate the guidance.
What does “LHS” stand for?
Leisure Hand Sewn – it’s a model name from Alden. See this post for details
Whilst I like the idea of a kitted tee, the sleeves most often resemble a puffy blouse sleeve that I just can’t see past.
It’s less the case on merino ones, or finer cotton knits. It happens more on chunkier cotton knits like this one I find
Agree that the puffy sleeves can look slightly effeminate (I inevitably think of Anne of Green Gables going on about “puffed sleeves”). It’s hard to tell from the pictures – the one of you sitting down (at the top) looks fine, but the sleeves in the picture of you standing up with your arms behind your back do look a bit too puffy.
I think it’s a fairly small aspect of the shirt. Also, it’s more of a vintage detail that feels right in a shirt like this, given how much volume there is in the body too, going down into a close rib at the waist.
Morning Simon. Do you / do any readers have any experience with the B&L Sagan Grand line of loafers?
Yes, I’ve had a pair. Personally I didn’t like them as much as this Gingko as a more robust looking loafer
Hi Simon, well done — the colours you have picked look great. Do you intend to write a proper review of the Gingko? In particular, if it is comparable to the Sagan in terms of comfort, which is what I am sure is a key selling point of the Sagan.
Good point. Yes, when I’ve worn these long enough I might do something longer
A side-by-side with the EG Polperro would be interesting, visually they seem to be extremely similar.
The Polperro is a lot softer, more like the original Sagan in that regard
Ah thanks. If you have handled them, do you know anything that justifies the 150 GBP price differential between the Polperros and the Sagans?
Well, one obvious thing is the Polperro is in a calf suede, not a lamb suede, which as mentioned is one reason the Gingko is more expensive than the regular Sagan
Simon, could you wear these with smart shorts?
I wouldn’t probably, no
Leaving aside the differences in appearance, how do the Gingkos compare to the Classics in terms of fit and comfort? So the Gingkos mold to your feet in the same way? One of the unusual features of the classics is that they fit well on narrow feet. They are the first pair of standard width shoes that I have purchased that do not fall off at the heel.
I think these will do a little less, but to be honest I haven’t worn them enough yet to know really
Interesting review. The B&L website does not indicate ANY difference in construction between the Classic line and the Gingko line. Would you say the Gingkos sit halfway between the Classics and the Grandes in terms of construction?
Yes, though closer to the latter.
You’re right, B&L could do a better job highlighting the difference there.
Could you please confirm the material? According to the B&L website, the Pecan-colored Gingkos are made out of “Asteria Deerskin” rather than calf, as indicated in this blog post. https://baudoinlange.com/collections/men/products/sagan-classic-ginkgo-in-pecan-glove-suede
And as mentioned above, you would never know from the B&L website that the Gingkos are different in construction compared to the Classics.
Yes, it’s suede, not deerskin. That’s an error
Both lovely colors. I much prefer the Ginko visually to the Grand.
The outfit in these pictures is really quite nice, a great take on casual.
PS. Your tattoo now that it’s not shot in focus looks really nice in this regard too, btw.
Agree. I own a pair of Classics and have never seen a pair of the Grands in person, but based on the pictures, the Grands look slightly chunkier and less elegant than the Classics. Based on the pictures, the Ginkos retain the slim line of the Classics while adding a bit of extra construction / support. They also look less like slippers. The best of both worlds.
I really like the Gingkos and Sagans but honestly I only wear soft loafers like this with cotton or linen trousers or suits.Otherwise,I boringly wear Oxfords/Balmorals like the Curzons from EG on most other occasions when I prefer sharper tailoring.That being said I’m often proved wrong!
Hi Simon- do you think the ginko would work with cream jeans and a more casual outfit or would you go sagan? Thanks.
Probably Sagan, though either is a little smart with jeans
Are you still not using shoetrees with your Sagans Simon? Any mind change on that? Would you use some with the Gingkos?
I’m not, no. I probably wouldn’t on Gingkos either, given there’s no more structure, just the leather and the lining. But I’m not so sure on that
Hi Simon, thanks for the nice colour review of the Gingko.
I have a question regarding material. I have a pair of classic Sagan in dark brown, and from what I understood or remember, the lambskin material was really hard to outsource, as it had to be soft like glove material, but still be able to hold its shape (which it does perfectly).
I would have thought this kind of material would be more expensive than a “regular” calf suede, as seen on the Gingko, thus the Gingko would be at the same price point or even slightly less expensive than the Sagan. What are your thoughts on this ?
ALso, in terms of materials and make, how would you say the Gingkos compare with similarly styled shoes such as the Portland by EG (https://www.edwardgreen.com/shop/shoes/portland-mace-baby-calf-suede-made-in-england-389-last.html) ?
Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris,
I can see why you would think that, but calf suede is more expensive. This is not a regular calf suede though, you need small skins to get this kind of softness and flexibility (one thing which leads to that expense as well).
For comparison with the EG models, see comments above in this post, and lots more on the Summer Shoes post last week.
Hi Simon,
A great choice of shades for Gingko loafers. Do you think the pecan shade would work with pair of light grey crispaire trousers.
Yes, I think either would be nice with light grey
Hi Simon,
Thanks for coming back, what do you think of the sand colour which they have named as clay. I have seen the colour in person and its still dark enough to wear with paler trousers.
https://baudoinlange.com/products/sagan-classic-ginko-in-clay-glove-suede
It’s nice. Personally I prefer the pecan, as it’s a little more interesting and probably versatile, but of course it’s the one I picked, so it would be
Do you think the Gingkos can be re- soled Simon?
I’ll double check what the guys advise
Going sockless can be viewed as a slightly effete look (many guys refuse to do so at all for that reason), and since the Sagan classics are slightly feminine in their slender, low cut, that only doubles the effect. So for that reason, although I sometimes go sockless when wearing a pair of sporty Italian driving shoes, I rarely go sockless with the Sagan Classics. They get a lot of use in the summer paired with high twist or linen trousers (with socks). Work attire is more casual in the summer, and when it’s blazing hot, the Sagan Classics are a great option.
Do you think the sockless look would be easier to pull off on a pair of Gingkos?
The other thing – and Simon, this might be something worth writing a post on – is that so much depends on the color and silhouette of the overall ensemble. Since the Sagans add a lot of flair, I find it’s best to pair them with more understated clothing. For instance, I have a pair of heavy but breathable linen-cotton canvas trousers that are in a fairly rich shade of blue. (Too bright outside the beach, perhaps). Anyhow, when I tried paring them with the Classics sockless, I got the following reaction from my wife: “Forget your purse?” The Classics work much better paired with grey high twist wool or with sand- or tan-colored linen.
Hi Simon, I’m sure you getting sick of all the comparison questions, but I still wanted to ask: do you have any views on the Adret ‘Cary’ loafer vs these Ginkos? Styling on the Carys seems to run closer to the Sagans but (at least on the pictures, I have yet to email Adam/see them in person) with a bit more structure a la the Ginko. If you have any thoughts would be curious to hear them. All the best, Jon
I haven’t tried the Cary, so I can’t say. Sorry
Hello Simon,
Compared to the Sagan, what is the sizing like with the Ginkgo (this is the correct spelling)?
Thanks, not sure how I missed that. I’ll change it throughout now.
I found I sized up – I think the lining reduces the space inside slightly. About a quarter to a half size. I’m between 42 and 43, but take 42 in the Sagan, 43 in the Ginkgo
Have you had a chance to try out the Sagan Stride, and if so, what are your impressions? Will you be doing a review?
Thanks as always.
I have, and it’s lovely but not for me – it’s more for the market of people that wear the Loro Piana shoes, which to my taste are a dressed-up trainer, not a replacement for a leather shoe. They never look right with tailored clothing, or chinos often for that matter. And they’re a bit too luxe for jeans.
Just stumbled into this thread. Don’t you think these would be a good fit for the new dresses down environment? For the occasions in which you want something casual that’s dressier than sneakers?
I think suede loafers generally work well in that situation, certainly. These ones are perhaps a little summer-y and a little slim for some guys, just from a style point of view