Drakes made-to-order ties

May 16th 2016

A few week ago, Drake's asked me to try out their made-to-order tie service, which has been given a new digital home on the website. The prime question is, of course, do you really need a MTO tie? It didn't even feature on my list last year of the ...

Drakes made-to-order ties

A few week ago, Drake's asked me to try out their made-to-order tie service, which has been given a new digital home on the website.  The prime question is, of course, do you really need a MTO tie? It didn't even feat...

TiesMay 16th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

   This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be gre...

Jackets - ShoesApril 13th 2016

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

April 4th 2016

There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would argue proportions...

Escorial jacket: The modernity of muted colours

   There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit.  But aside from the ex...

Jackets - StyleApril 4th 2016

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

March 21st 2016

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

   A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions.  As you can see from the images below, some lapels...

JacketsMarch 21st 2016

Wearing a jacket and jeans

October 12th 2015

If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital industries often have this prob...

Wearing a jacket and jeans

   If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans. Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight. Friends in the creative or digital...

Casual clothing - JacketsOctober 12th 2015

A hot, formal evening in Florence

July 27th 2015

Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually n...

A hot, formal evening in Florence

   Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation. We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against s...

Shoes - StyleJuly 27th 2015

Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers

June 24th 2015

OK, let’s break this down. There are four major choices of colour here: Trousers: green Jacket: tan Tie: brown Shirt: blue I put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chosen. Readers are familiar wi...

Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers

   OK, let’s break this down. There are four major choices of colour here: Trousers: green Jacket: tan Tie: brown Shirt: blue I put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were cho...

Jackets - StyleJune 24th 2015

Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket

May 29th 2015

This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: with a shirt ...

Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket

  This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe. Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on...

JacketsMay 29th 2015

Harris tweed jacket and jeans

November 21st 2014

Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonetheless. Cloth suited to i...

Harris tweed jacket and jeans

  Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonethe...

Jackets - KnitwearNovember 21st 2014

Postcard from Begg – teasels and cream cash...

November 4th 2014

One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer machine – they just can&...

Postcard from Begg – teasels and cream cash...

  One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer mac...

Hanks and scarvesNovember 4th 2014

Postcards from Madrid

May 26th 2014

These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know ( Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta). I invited Elia Caliendo and Luca Avitabile of Satria...

Postcards from Madrid

  These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know ( Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta).  I invited Elia Caliendo ...

Hanks and scarvesMay 26th 2014

Checks, denim and balance

April 25th 2014

The question I get more than any other – from both readers and friends – is how to wear separate or ‘odd’ jackets. Indeed, what differentiates an odd jacket from a suit jacket in the first place. There are two factors: cloth a...

Checks, denim and balance

The question I get more than any other – from both readers and friends – is how to wear separate or ‘odd’ jackets. Indeed, what differentiates an odd jacket from a suit jacket in the first place. There are two fa...

StyleApril 25th 2014

Levi’s final bespoke jeans

April 11th 2014

I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twill for the way it mould...

Levi’s final bespoke jeans

I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twil...

Denim - StyleApril 11th 2014

Neapolitan tweed jacket – Elia Caliendo

February 26th 2014

  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic. Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water-resistant. It makes a gre...

Neapolitan tweed jacket – Elia Caliendo

  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic.  Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water-resistant....

Casual clothing - JacketsFebruary 26th 2014

Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014

January 12th 2014

A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief. Tweed such as this goes well with lot...

Pictures from Pitti Uomo 2014

A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief.  Tweed such...

StyleJanuary 12th 2014

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

December 23rd 2013

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in the first place. In t...

Cifonelli jacket, D’Avino shirt and others

A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris...

Jackets - ShirtsDecember 23rd 2013

Video on suits and their construction

September 11th 2013

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new MTM/bespoke initiative at...

Video on suits and their construction

Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new...

Suits - VideoSeptember 11th 2013

Reader question: belts with suits

March 29th 2013

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...

Reader question: belts with suits

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it wit...

Belts and wallets - Reader questionsMarch 29th 2013

Sartorial column in How to Spend It

January 3rd 2013

I’ve recently begun a column for How to Spend It, the luxury supplement to the Financial Times. The first post, on Neapolitan tailoring, can be seen here. Photo: Luke Carby

Sartorial column in How to Spend It

I’ve recently begun a column for How to Spend It, the luxury supplement to the Financial Times. The first post, on Neapolitan tailoring, can be seen here. Photo: Luke Carby...

January 3rd 2013

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

November 9th 2012

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made up. The pictures will be ...

Send in your Permanent Style Tweed pics!

I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made...

November 9th 2012

Solito jacket, Naples

October 24th 2012

I love Gennaro’s cutting board, by the window looking out into the squareThis was the second fitting on a Solito jacket in Naples. Luigi, the son, was there the first time earlier in the year, and as he speaks some English we could ask rath...

Solito jacket, Naples

I love Gennaro’s cutting board, by the window looking out into the squareThis was the second fitting on a Solito jacket in Naples. Luigi, the son, was there the first time earlier in the year, and as he speaks some...

JacketsOctober 24th 2012

Elia Caliendo: tweed jacket

October 19th 2012

After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a reader. It looks beautiful, such a...

Elia Caliendo: tweed jacket

After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a read...

JacketsOctober 19th 2012

Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit

July 20th 2012

Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossible The linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on the wall; there is a real ...

Kent Haste & Lachter linen suit

Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossible The linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on ...

SuitsJuly 20th 2012

Elia Caliendo jacket

July 13th 2012

Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of the inside of the jacket. Alt...

Elia Caliendo jacket

Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of...

JacketsJuly 13th 2012

JM Weston, Elia Caliendo and Globe-Trotter

June 22nd 2012

Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase.

JM Weston, Elia Caliendo and Globe-Trotter

Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase....

June 22nd 2012