Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
June 21st 2019I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having worn it for a few months (th...
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
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I think so, yes. And to be honest, I'd go for the dark brown over the tobacco as well, if it were me. Even if it seems more boring. It will go with more other things in your wardrobe too...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
June 19th 2019Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
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Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Appreciate simon...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
April 12th 2019The Valstarino - Valstar’s button-up suede blouson - has been very popular among fans of classic menswear in recent years. Although that shouldn’t be generally surprising given its quality and heritage, I do think it’s become parti...
Introducing: The reversible Valstarino
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Thanks Jan, always appreciated. I'll change that now...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
April 5th 2019This is a post rounding up three recent made-to-measure commissions that for different reasons, didn’t quite work out. As ever with the reviews and commentary, all three brands are aware of the issues, and we have already talked about what can...
Saman Amel, Licia Luchini, Billy Tannery: Things ...
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I don't, sorry Michael...
Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-...
March 15th 2019A reader recently asked whether there was anything I particularly liked on The Rake’s online shop , given how much they’ve added in the past year. I feel I know why he’s asking. The Rake has added so much product recently that it&r...
Seeing the trees for the wood: Connolly and Yard-...
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I don't know the details of the deal, but I don't believe it will be, no. I wouldn't really write anything yet as I don't know details and wouldn't want to speculate....
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
January 30th 2019Here's an interesting one. I passionately believe SEH Kelly should be covered and included in the pages of Permanent Style, even though I wouldn't wear a lot of their pieces. Why? Because in every aspect apart from style, they're perfect. Paul (belo...
The unique workwear of SEH Kelly
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I don't think it would be that similar, no. I'm not sure on MTO actually, you'd have to ask them...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
January 11th 2019I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off by the styling of hors...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
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To be honest I think a cafe racer rarely looks good, it's a bit flash. You could wear this with a casual shirt, yes, and perhaps loafers. I'm not sure it would be me, but it's one I would have a go at and see...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
November 12th 2018Although tailoring is my primary passion, I’ve always worn clothing that these days would be grouped under the term ‘workwear’ on the weekend. Good denim, obviously, but also sweatshirts, waxed boots and canvas trousers. Some of th...
The appeal of workwear, and my favourite pieces
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Thanks. I guess when they just feel too warm to wear. It's hard to be consistent in the UK as the weather varies so much, but probably late March some time, and usually get winter things out in October...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
October 29th 2018It’s been over a year since I last had the chance to browse the stock at No Man Walks Alone and write one of these pieces, for which I blame a lack of travel to New York. It is possible to select a few favourites online, of course, particularl...
No Man Walks Alone A/W: Frank Leder, Monitaly, So...
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'No man walks alone' - possibly not the best brand name during the current Covid 19 outbreak. We are all walking alone now! They will need to rebrand....
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
October 10th 2018A reader commented on the last instalment of this list that it shaped his whole season’s shopping. No pressure then. Many of the ranges will feature in other coverage later in the year – particularly the ones I’ve alr...
Our Autumn/Winter Top 10, 2018
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Yes good point, I think that was more a case of how I came to feel about the PWVC cut over time, rather than changing my tastes. But yes shetlands I definitely wear less. Apart from those two I wear Colhay's, Bryceland's...
Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fa...
September 28th 2018I’ve always had a particular fondness for Dunhill, ever since I visited the leather workshops in Walthamstow years ago for my book ‘Best of British’. They’ve also made several of my most lovely things, such as my vintage box,...
Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fa...
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Yes George, some do offer bespoke or MTM bombers. Sartoria Melina for example in Naples - that's pretty much all they do https://www.permanentstyle.com/brand/melina...
Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review
September 12th 2018Sapayol is an online leather-jacket company, offering made-to-measure pieces manufactured in Turkey. Like many start-ups, it was founded by a young guy who thought there was a hole in the market - but had no prior experience in the industry. Here it...
Sapayol bespoke leather jacket: Review
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All credit to this guy - the unfortunate thing about this type of garment is that they are at their best when they are well worn and battered. You have remarked on this several times in other posts. I can't say that I'm ...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
July 30th 2018Next year I will publish a travel guide to the best men's stores around the world, with Thames & Hudson. Alongside the city chapters there will be interviews with well-travelled people in the menswear industry, highlighting their tips and in...
Where and why I shop: Wei Koh, The Rake
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Tatton Baird is a fantastic hat shop and we're very lucky to have them in my home state of Utah. What isn't widely known however is that their master hatter was trained by a gentleman named James Whittington who ran his ...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
July 25th 2018Given the heat at the moment in London, it shouldn’t be surprising that linen is the most attractive thing in the pop-up up shop, which has been going wonderfully so far. Edward Sexton’s Hollywood-top trousers (above) have been particula...
Popular at the pop-up: Hollywood tops, linen shir...
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No, the A&S will be better, but that's clear from the price too. And the difference will be mostly in the fineness of the linen, so it depends whether that matters to you...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
May 4th 2018Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
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I see Rhys. Well I'd certainly go off whatever they tell you, as they'll know (in the Haberdashery)....
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
May 2nd 2018Last week a friend in the industry asked me what aspect of writing Permanent Style I like the most. It is always, easily, discovering a new tailor, cloth or product that is different and inspiring. That journey from discovering something new, to see...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2018
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Hey Gab, They have aged pretty well, yes, though I'd say Aspesi is generally a good Italian brand but not the best quality around. The materials in the polo were good, but there was nothing that special about the make. I...
Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, a...
April 24th 2018After a long wait, Neapolitan bespoke leather experts Sartoria Melina are finally coming to London - on May 16th and 17th. They will be at Mark's Club, and as with Sartoria Ciardi last month, we will hold a small event for them on the Wednesday nig...
Sartoria Melina – first London trunkshow, a...
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The blazer is groundbreaking and nostalgic at the same time and will be (if cared for properly) of a most permanent style. Steve McQueen would definitely give it a go. The rigid naysayers be damned....
How to look after suede jackets – Video
March 7th 2018This is the second in our series of videos looking at practical aspects of menswear. The first, available here, explained the basics of good shoe care, with Edward Green on London's Jermyn Street. In this second instalment we turn our attention t...
How to look after suede jackets – Video
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No worries. Yes you can...
Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...
February 28th 2018Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...
Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...
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They can absolutely be stylish Ayush, yes. There are many types of style, and ones such as workwear can be lovely. If you want to be a little more elegant or smart though, you can be one step up from others and perhaps n...
Brand round-up: Lefren, Castore, Ashmei, Jago
February 5th 2018This is the latest in a series of posts where I gather together new brands or products I've tried (sometimes outside the normal bounds of sartorial menswear) and review them. They are all based on personal experience, and I try to focus on things th...
Brand round-up: Lefren, Castore, Ashmei, Jago
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I remember Castore being excessively expensive, but if I go on their (european) website the prices now seem pretty tame as far as "premium sportswear" goes, if there even is such a thing. Change of pricing policy? Or che...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
January 1st 2018One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
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I never did a full piece on it I'm afraid. But those trousers were in heavy Pardessus cloth that Holland & Sherry no longer sells, made by Elia Caliendo. The shirt is in Everyday Denim made by Luca Avitabile, and the sho...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
December 21st 2017The blouson in general, but particularly in brown and especially in brown suede, has to be one of the most versatile pieces in a man's wardrobe. The shape is short and neat enough to work well with smarter clothing; suede suggests a more dressy look...
A casual capsule: The Valstarino jacket three ways
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I'm afraid not, sorry, I've never had that. My first thing would be to hang it somewhere to air, perhaps even outside for a few hours. As a last resort I would also approach a specialist leather cleaner...
Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the po...
December 14th 2017It really is a lovely feeling walking into the pop-up shop for a new week. There’s Carmen from Camiseria Burgos in Madrid, whom I haven’t seen for five years, pretty much. Next to her is Benedikt from Shibumi, lining up his ties with his...
Codis Maya and The Workers Club – in the po...
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Perhaps talk to them about that Shem. I wore a Medium...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
December 11th 2017A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
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The Real McCoys will mostly be the same quality - the advantage of them over vintage is more that they are always available, in new condition, in a range of sizes. There may be little improvements, but I wouldn't buy on ...
