Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
April 21st 2021There are surprisingly few good vintage shops in London. Despite the popularity of vintage clothing in recent years, there haven’t been high-profile stores here like Wooden Sleepers in New York, Le Vif in Paris or Broadway & Sons in Go...
Hang-Up Vintage (and repairs, and creations)
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Good to see them opening a new place in Burnham on Crouch, Essex on 15th September. Friday's and Saturday's initially I believe - and by appointment . Promising unseen vintage.. I feel a day out on the coast coming on.....
The Adret store: Full-blown beauty
April 16th 2021This is the first of three articles celebrating menswear stores in London, following our call to arms earlier in the week urging readers to support the shops they love. We’re starting with Adret, the achingly beautiful shop opened by Adam and ...
The Adret store: Full-blown beauty
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I haven't talked to Adam in detail about it, but I think the point largely is that there is little public presence - eg a web shop or social media. A private client just means one that has visited the shop (perhaps my ap...
Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lan...
February 26th 2021Best stay-at-home wear: Baudoin & Lange Runners-up: Luca Faloni, Sunspel PS readers voted Baudoin & Lange the best for ‘stay at home’ wear in 2021 Awards, principally based on their Sagans or Sagan Lune shoes. Fortunatel...
Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lan...
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Hi everyone, I just bought the new version of the Lunes and noticed that they are somewhat different, especially the sole. As I could not find any public info on what is new in this version, I reached out to B&L. Ben...
Outfits I got wrong
February 19th 2021Everyone gets stuff wrong. We all have outfits we look back on years later, and cringe. Fortunately, I believe this is something where you learn and progress. It is not a cycle of fashions, where every few years you wear something different, and di...
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...
February 15th 2021The origins of the ‘casual chic’ look we’ve discussed in recent months - which I see as a route forward for relaxed yet smart menswear - can perhaps be seen in the leisure and sportswear of the 1930s. That era saw the growth of le...
Casual chic: The inspiration of vintage leisure a...
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It wasn't part of the same thing no, it came later. Nothing is timeless Joshua, I wouldn't suggest that's a good way to think about it!...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
February 5th 2021Last week, I wrote something of an homage to John Simons , the retailer that did so much to bring the Ivy League Look to the UK - and in the process, changed it into something more British and working class. John championed heritage brands long bef...
The heritage brands of John Simons: Vetra, Dehen,...
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Thanks Lindsay, yes we mentioned that in a more recent post, the Spring Top 10. Thanks for adding it here though...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
December 23rd 2020Saman Amel have a new atelier in Stockholm. It’s on the corner: a small, ground floor space with a plate-glass window, worn wood and patinated brass. Inside, though, is all tonal chic. Perfectly positioned lamps and designer chairs. A colour ...
New shop, outerwear and trousers at Saman Amel
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I'd just avoid synthetics whenever I could - I prefer natural materials like a ventile or waxed cotton. Nylon would be very practical though...
The Winter Top 5: End, GRP, Real McCoy’s, B...
November 4th 2020Anonymous Ism socks, via End £30 The online version of End is a surprisingly good source for classic clothing. Although it’s still dominated by street wear, and the new shop off Carnaby Street is entirely trainers and hoodies, the websit...
The Winter Top 5: End, GRP, Real McCoy’s, B...
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Thanks John, interesting to hear. There's a piece coming up on gilets and vests (featuring this piece as part of it), so good to get your thoughts there as well...
The tucked-in T-shirt
October 30th 2020When I was a teenager, nothing seemed more sad or old than wearing a T-shirt tucked into trousers. Granted, the style of the day was loose, grunge-inspired clothing, with oversized flannel shirts and baggy knitwear. But it was also a question of pe...
The tucked-in T-shirt
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I don't, sorry Hugh. Perhaps some other readers do...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
September 7th 2020There is a handful of menswear shops in London that I recommend regularly to friends visiting from abroad. They include Trunk, Connolly, Drake's and Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. All boutiques, all founded in the past decade. The most ...
Clutch Cafe: A guide to my favourite brands
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Much better, but also a very different look...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
July 22nd 2020Connolly I often find there's a lot of anxiety among readers, and consultancy clients, about how to dress smartly without tailoring. It is, of course, a topic we've addressed many times. But today I'd like to emphasise a point that’s often mi...
Casual chic: The art of looking smart without a suit
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I appreciate your thoughts and I agree. The trousers are always too oversized for my taste, but the knits are lovely. Jackets are nice too but I often need to size down....
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
July 15th 2020With stock delayed and most shops closed, there seemed less point in doing our regular Spring/Summer round-up earlier in the year. So here, rather later, is a Summer-targeted piece on items I've tried myself and especially recommend. I've also kept ...
The Summer Top Five: Adret, Anglo, Anthology, Con...
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Those pieces would be long sleeve, correct? I think then it looks like a piece of knitwear, whereas most would see this Anthology piece as a T-shirt essentially, just a fancy one. I might wear the Anthology under a jacke...
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
June 8th 2020*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...
Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino
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We did, a few years ago I'm afraid. Might do something again in the future though...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
May 15th 2020Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
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Yes I have, the shirt I featured recently here was from him. It was very good and I'd say pretty comparable with Luca. The only thing would be whether small changes to style and fit could be made in the same way with JMM...
Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...
April 10th 2020Although my purchasing has certainly slowed in recent weeks, I have continued to buy things that seemed practical, or which I wanted to try in order to cover on Permanent Style. Time at home means burrowing into your closet, experimenting with old ...
Three things I’ve bought on lockdown: Steve...
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It's done very well, and I do it on a wool wash in the machine...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
March 18th 2020A couple of weeks ago, we looked at a relatively casual outfit - and how elements such as a baseball cap or bright knitwear could make classic menswear less formal, with some Ivy influences. Today I’d like to talk about one element that I find...
The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring)
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Not at all, an interesting and useful view Stephan. I would disagree myself, but perhaps with slightly more casual things it could be better, as you say....
Introducing: The button-down Friday Polo
February 12th 2020Picking what to offer in this next iteration of the Friday Polo was not a hard decision. So many readers have asked in the past few months for a button-down version of the PS polo. That may be because there are more out there at the moment; or it m...
Introducing: The button-down Friday Polo
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No, they can certainly look good...
Alfredo Rifugio: Luxury Neapolitan leather jackets
November 15th 2019Rifugio is a Neapolitan leather manufacturer, which in the past three years has followed a path well-trodden by many modern makers: leaving pure manufacturing to set up their own brand. I’ve seen several Rifugio pieces over the past couple of...
Alfredo Rifugio: Luxury Neapolitan leather jackets
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The first two, yes. Cromford is high quality but isn't usually as fine in the make, not as Italian. I wouldn't go to them for the same kind of thing as the others, generally...
Seraphin made-to-order project with Connolly
October 29th 2019*UPDATE: The offer has now launched, and the jackets are available to order in the Connolly shop, or by phone, until December 10th. Sizes and measurements of the jacket are included at the bottom of this post. Sleeve lengths can be altered. If you w...
Seraphin made-to-order project with Connolly
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I don't know I'm afraid. I think it was mostly MTM versions of the Seraphin jackets that they had themselves in store though?...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
September 18th 2019So, there was a pair of Retrospecs sunglasses. From the 1930s - originals, as all Retrospecs are. In rolled gold, not the cheaper-looking gold plate. Filigree work around the frame - all of which is different for each tiny batch. Perfect fit. But I ...
Retrospecs gold, Chapal sheep, Informale twill, L...
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No problem Stanley, and I hope you get many years of happy wear out of it...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
August 23rd 2019I recently got to know Stacey Wood of King & Tuckfield , and think - despite a fashion-oriented look that might initially put some readers off - that some of the brand’s pieces are appealing variations on the menswear staples we love. ...
King & Tuckfield: Evolutionary fifties fashion
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I bought two items of clothing from King & Tuckfield when I was in London last year. They are both lovely. I am happy with them both....
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
August 16th 2019In the past five years, it feels like everyone has started doing some kind of shirt-jacket. It was a natural extension of the soft tailoring trend, perhaps, and it certainly gained traction when shirtmakers realised they could offer this too - a we...
Hand-dyed Mandarin jacket from Prologue
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I think the jacket is better with things like tailored trousers, myself. I'm not sure I'd wear it with jeans much. It is a very specific style Amit...
Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks o...
August 7th 2019Great as Instagram is, a definite flaw is its lack of an effective archive. There’s no way to search old images, so unless you save an image yourself, you can’t find old pieces or browse effectively. Just as important a frustration &...
Editing Instagram: Dressing for different walks o...
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Anyone know Peter’s height? Just curious....
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
June 21st 2019I liked the made-to-measure jacket I got from Sartoria Melina in 2017 so much, that last year I commissioned something new. This is it: their bomber-jacket style, in a tan colour of their signature nubuck leather. Having worn it for a few months (th...
Sartoria Melina nubuck bomber jacket
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That is a flatter collar, actually more what you used to get on bomber jackets, but lower than my one. I wouldn't say it was as versatile, but it is a question of personal choice...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
June 19th 2019Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
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Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...
