Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

Read MoreMar 20th 2023

This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring.  Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...

Tonal layering with black jeans: Comfy, drapey, easy

This outfit I wore last week really tickled me - I think primarily for its combination of T-shirt and tailoring.  Working the two together in some way (as in this, perhaps Summer equivalent) is often an effective way to achieve the ‘casual chic’...

Mar 20th 2023

Filson briefcase: How great things age

Read MoreJun 3rd 2022

Of all the things we cover in the ‘How great things age’ series, a bag such as this probably has the most potential - because it is made of canvas, leather and brass.  All those three materials age differently.  Brass, presuming it’s not ...

Filson briefcase: How great things age

Of all the things we cover in the ‘How great things age’ series, a bag such as this probably has the most potential - because it is made of canvas, leather and brass.  All those three materials age differently.  Brass, presuming it’s not ...

Jun 3rd 2022

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review

Read MoreJun 24th 2022

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bespoke craftsman, it’s good to hav...

Peter Nitz hand-sewn briefcase: Review

Peter Nitz is a Swiss craftsman based in Zurich. He does a lot of teaching of hand-sewn leather techniques, including classes, videos and individual training. He also sells leather-working tools. (When you’re a bespoke craftsman, it’s good to hav...

Jun 24th 2022

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 27th 2016

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

   A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad.  First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer - Foster’s lastmaker - was impressive. The fit around ...

Apr 27th 2016

Don't polish with too much water

Read MoreJan 23rd 2010

Polishing leather shoes up to a brilliant shine is an extremely enjoyable pastime. Nathan Brown over at Lodger always says that one of the problems with being an entrepreneur is that he never gets the time to sit down and polish his shoes any more. G...

Don't polish with too much water

Polishing leather shoes up to a brilliant shine is an extremely enjoyable pastime. Nathan Brown over at Lodger always says that one of the problems with being an entrepreneur is that he never gets the time to sit down and polish his shoes any more. G...

Jan 23rd 2010

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Read MoreApr 20th 2020

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you wea...

Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage

Last month I wrote a fairly comprehensive piece on the ways to deal with rain damage on shoes, when it happens.  In this article, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent that damage happening in the first place - both in terms of which shoes you wea...

Apr 20th 2020

Saint Crispin's shoes: Reflections two years later

Read MoreMar 23rd 2018

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured here; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of very-dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each time gaining in confide...

Saint Crispin's shoes: Reflections two years later

I now have three pairs of Saint Crispin’s shoes: the alligator/calf wing-tips pictured here; brown-suede chukka boots; and most recently a pair of very-dark-brown suede cap-toes. I have ordered steadily and regularly, each time gaining in confide...

Mar 23rd 2018

The pleasures of a shoe shine

Read MoreMar 25th 2009

Walking along the Burlington Arcade last week, I took the opportunity to have a shoe shine. It’s rarely offered in London these days, which is a shame. So it was nice to support someone that’s making the time to set out there and ply his wares.(T...

The pleasures of a shoe shine

Walking along the Burlington Arcade last week, I took the opportunity to have a shoe shine. It’s rarely offered in London these days, which is a shame. So it was nice to support someone that’s making the time to set out there and ply his wares.(T...

Mar 25th 2009

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

Read MoreFeb 15th 2017

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to...

Building a wardrobe: Bespoke shoes

As the last post on building a wardrobe - focused on Neapolitan tailoring - proved popular, I thought I'd do a second looking at shoes. But rather than look at my whole shoe collection, which numbers more than 40 pairs and would take a long time to...

Feb 15th 2017

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 11

Read MoreNov 19th 2010

Finally, the last stage of my George Cleverley shoes. This is the finishing, which involves waxing the edges, sealing the sole and polishing the upper. The edges of the sole are stained in a similar colour to the upper – though perhaps a few shades...

Bespoke shoes at Cleverley: Part 11

Finally, the last stage of my George Cleverley shoes. This is the finishing, which involves waxing the edges, sealing the sole and polishing the upper. The edges of the sole are stained in a similar colour to the upper – though perhaps a few shades...

Nov 19th 2010

Video: How to care for wool knitwear

Read MoreJan 23rd 2019

When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel guilty every few months an...

Video: How to care for wool knitwear

When was the last time you washed your knitwear? I have to say it's one of the clothing maintenance things I'm worst at. Even though I know it's great to avoid pilling, and more importantly moths, I rarely do it. I feel guilty every few months an...

Jan 23rd 2019

Buy good English shoes

Read MoreJan 25th 2012

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bought a pair from Crockett & Jones to ...

Buy good English shoes

Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he bought a pair from Crockett & Jones to ...

Jan 25th 2012

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreJan 1st 2020

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Masaru Okuyama bespoke shoes: Review

Masaru Okuyama - the Japan-trained but Hong Kong-based shoemaker - made me this pair of shoes over the past 10 months.  Their relevance is twofold. As a review of Masaru and his work, of course, but also as an experience of Japanese shoemaking, as t...

Jan 1st 2020

Five tips on shoes

Read MoreJun 3rd 2011

The tips on looking good in a pair of shoes are simpler, in a way, than those for suits. They come down to two things: spend as much money as you can afford, because you are buying value and longevity; and look after them well, because you will be re...

Five tips on shoes

The tips on looking good in a pair of shoes are simpler, in a way, than those for suits. They come down to two things: spend as much money as you can afford, because you are buying value and longevity; and look after them well, because you will be re...

Jun 3rd 2011

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

Read MoreMar 10th 2021

This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider - also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remo...

The (17) bespoke shoemakers I have known

This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider - also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remo...

Mar 10th 2021

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

Read MoreFeb 22nd 2021

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why?  I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per inch.  W...

Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?

What shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why?  I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per inch.  W...

Feb 22nd 2021

J Adler bespoke shoes: review

Read MoreJan 23rd 2015

  In Autumn last year, John from J Adler Shoes asked if I would review his bespoke shoes in return for a review. I don’t normally take up such offers, particularly for lower-end shoes such as these, but I was interested in Adler's unusual fit pr...

J Adler bespoke shoes: review

  In Autumn last year, John from J Adler Shoes asked if I would review his bespoke shoes in return for a review. I don’t normally take up such offers, particularly for lower-end shoes such as these, but I was interested in Adler's unusual fit pr...

Jan 23rd 2015

TLB Artista shoes: Review

Read MoreAug 17th 2020

Spanish shoemaker TLB sent me these ‘Artista’ suede oxfords to try, following my mention of them in our round-up of cheaper shoe brands last month.  I have to say, I was immediately impressed. Not necessarily compared to the top-end shoes I usua...

TLB Artista shoes: Review

Spanish shoemaker TLB sent me these ‘Artista’ suede oxfords to try, following my mention of them in our round-up of cheaper shoe brands last month.  I have to say, I was immediately impressed. Not necessarily compared to the top-end shoes I usua...

Aug 17th 2020

Repatinating shoes with Carreducker

Read MoreSep 6th 2013

I love my brown Cleverleys – the first bespoke shoes I owned – but I’ve never been that happy with the colour. Cleverley are good at many things, but patination is not one of them. George Jr has looked at introducing a patination service, but i...

Repatinating shoes with Carreducker

I love my brown Cleverleys – the first bespoke shoes I owned – but I’ve never been that happy with the colour. Cleverley are good at many things, but patination is not one of them. George Jr has looked at introducing a patination service, but i...

Sep 6th 2013

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

Read MoreApr 10th 2013

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Justin Fitzpatrick, the Shoe Snob, launches his shoes

A couple of weeks ago, Justin Fitzpatrick at The Shoe Snob launched his first range of shoes, which are now available at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row. For Justin, this is the culmination of a long period of working and dreaming. He trained as a shoe...

Apr 10th 2013

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

Read MoreApr 17th 2020

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

Yohei Fukuda bespoke shoes: Review

As mentioned in my recent article on Yohei Fukuda, I ordered a pair of bespoke shoes from him last year, when I was in Tokyo.  However, I opted for bespoke without a fitting.  Why? Well, at the moment I seem to be getting to Tokyo every three years...

Apr 17th 2020

Warsaw shoemakers: Kielman and Januszkiewicz

Read MoreSep 24th 2012

There is a far stronger tradition of shoemaking in Warsaw than of tailoring. One manifestation of that tradition is that all the shoemakers – of which there are about five good ones left – make all their shoes by hand. There is no machine work in...

Warsaw shoemakers: Kielman and Januszkiewicz

There is a far stronger tradition of shoemaking in Warsaw than of tailoring. One manifestation of that tradition is that all the shoemakers – of which there are about five good ones left – make all their shoes by hand. There is no machine work in...

Sep 24th 2012

Video: How to look after your suit

Read MoreOct 21st 2015

This is the first in a series of videos - made in conjunction with Richard Anderson - on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit.  [It's worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are practical guides to regular maintena...

Video: How to look after your suit

This is the first in a series of videos - made in conjunction with Richard Anderson - on maintaining, brushing and pressing a suit.  [It's worth enlarging to full screen if you want to watch it all] They are practical guides to regular maintena...

Oct 21st 2015

A view on emerging Chinese shoemakers

Read MoreMar 16th 2022

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry about o...

A view on emerging Chinese shoemakers

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry about o...

Mar 16th 2022

Shoes being re-patinated at Berluti

Read MoreAug 16th 2010

I watched my Berluti shoes being re-patinated last week. This is a service the company offers to anyone – they recommend that you take the shoes away, wear them half a dozen times (without polishing them) and bring them back in. It enables the staf...

Shoes being re-patinated at Berluti

I watched my Berluti shoes being re-patinated last week. This is a service the company offers to anyone – they recommend that you take the shoes away, wear them half a dozen times (without polishing them) and bring them back in. It enables the staf...

Aug 16th 2010