I’ve had a few requests over the years to do one of these, our wardrobe-building guides, about knitwear.
One of the challenges of doing so is that very little is right or wrong, and a lot is personal. Still, there are some helpful things that can be said about colours, styles and materials I think, particularly if the main aim is versatility, which it usually is with these pieces.
Our presumption is that we’re talking to a young guy trying to put together a small wardrobe of quality clothing, who needs to buy things that work with everything else, and can ill afford mistakes or whimsy. And then along the way, hopefully I say things that apply more universally.
Reflecting that challenge of knitwear, this piece is not organised as five individual knits, but the three choices that affect each of them. Each category (colour, style, material) is organised in order of priority, from the most versatile to the least, so the appropriate selection can be made from each.
Note that we’re talking only about fully-fashioned, knitted-together knitwear here, by the way, not sweatshirts.
Colours of knits
Grey
Unlike tailoring, grey is probably the most versatile colour of knitwear, for most people. Why? Because it goes with pretty much every colour of trouser, the only exception being grey itself (eg grey flannels).
Navy
Navy is next, and is only limited by the fact that you might own some dark-rinse jeans or navy chinos that it could match too closely. Which of navy and grey works best for you depends a lot on your trousers, therefore. And chances are you’ll end up with both anyway.
Brown, beige, cream
After those first two, most other muted, conservative colours are similarly useful. I especially like dark, cold shades of brown, but then I know they fit well with everything else I wear (eg black jeans, cream jeans). Beiges vary quite a lot but are similarly useful; creams don’t, but not everyone finds cream easy to keep clean. Easier in a tough material like shetland wool.
Green in all its shades
Greens are similar to browns, in that it’s all about the tone. I love a dark olive knit, but wear stronger, warmer greens much less often.
Charcoal and maybe black
These come some way down the list because they often make quite specific demands on the trousers. Charcoal is by far the easier of the two, but it’s fairly smart while not being as universal as navy. Black knits are an easier way to wear black than most other categories, but are still less versatile (the aim, remember) than most other colours of knitwear.
Strong, rich, bright
Strong colours are not the friend of the versatile capsule wardrobe. An orange shetland can be beautiful, but you need enough other knitwear such that you’re not always wearing that sweater. Other than that yellow/orange, my other favourite bright colours are lilac and purple.
Styles of knits
Crewneck
The two main styles of knit are crewneck (round) and V-neck. There are many reasons why a V-neck is great, and it depends on the depth of the V, as well as your neck/shoulders, but for most people, most of the time, a crewneck is a better first choice. Easier to wear without a collar underneath as well.
V-neck
See above. Really flattering when the V is relatively deep, and accentuates the opening of a shirt, the line of a lapel. But harder to wear with just a T-shirt. I’d always have three crewnecks for every V-neck I owned. And in fact I own more of the next category.
Shawl
Perhaps this should have gone above V-necks. Anyway, this covers both shawl necks and shawl-collar cardigans. The latter are a real menswear staple, and with good reason. The collar and the chunkiness (it should be chunky) are flattering, and they are very happy with both a shirt and a tee.
Collared/polo
A knit with a collar, like a polo shirt. Some makers even call their knits, in any weight, polo shirts or sports shirts, which reveals something about their origins but feels rather out of step. Still, this is a great option because it flatters the face like a shirt collar, and is easy to wear. Only issue is it doesn’t look as good with a shirt collar, as a result. Too many collars.
Roll neck
Great for winter, cosy and flattering under a coat. Not that forgiving on its own, however, unless pretty chunky. Too many fans of classic menswear buy them and then realise this when they take their jacket off.
Cardigan
Those without a shawl collar. Cardigans are a really nice option if they flatter you, but many don’t. They’re much easier to wear with a shirt underneath, and can create pleasing lines under a jacket. For thoughts on the right cut, see PS articles on sleeveless ones, relaxed ones, and sloppy ones.
Vest, zip, funnel, mock
Vests – sleeveless V-neck sweaters – can be great, but in particular cuts and combinations. Probably not one for a small capsule. Zips are, in general, the devil: a lazy choice by those who mistakenly think they work with both shirts and T-shirts. Funnels and mock necks are rarely better than rolls, but for more on mocks see a piece on necklines here.
Material
Cashmere
Arguably, this shouldn’t be the first choice for a guy buying his first quality piece – let’s say a navy or grey crewneck. It’s expensive and it’s delicate. But actually, if it’s looked after well it’s not that delicate, and we are talking fairly smart knitwear overall. I’d only say, don’t buy really cheap cashmere. If that’s your only choice, buy lambswool instead.
Lambswool
See above. Perhaps a good option for your first knit, it should be easier to look after and unless you’re wearing it over a T-shirt and are fairly sensitive to such things, shouldn’t be itchy.
Fine merino
So, lambswool is also merino; one is the age of the animal, the other the breed. But in general, when people say merino they mean a finer merino lambswool yarn, one that produces a thinner, smarter knit. Think about John Smedley. This is lovely, but can be too smart for jeans, workwear etc, whereas the thicker wools above are often good with everything. Hence why it’s third on the list.
Cotton
God I love a cotton sweater in the warmer half of the year. There’s nothing like that feel of heft, of being clothed, with the accompanying coolness of cotton. Our fictional reader starting out shouldn’t get one until he has at least four or five other sweaters, but eventually he should get a great chunky cotton knit.
Shetland
More a style choice, a way to add something interesting, which is what pushes it down the list. Some people also just plain don’t like them. But if you like your sweaters rugged and fuzzy (plus, often, strongly coloured) shetlands are wonderful.
Linen, mohair etc
There are a bunch of other fibres I wouldn’t recommend to our knitwear naif, including linen and mohair, so they’re not that relevant, probably, to this piece. But feel free to ask about them and every other permutation in the comments. Or read this on mohair.
So. Completely unsurprisingly, the capsule wardrobe starts with a navy cashmere crewneck, perhaps a grey lambswool crewneck, and then a shawl-collar cardigan.
The hard thing to decide is, which variable do you change with each acquisition? Should that shawl be navy or grey, as that would be the most useful, or is that too boring? Is this why guys end up with nothing but navy knitwear?
Given there are approaching 600 permutations of the above variables, this is something we must all have made decisions on, as nobody (not even me) owns that many. And we haven’t even got onto other design choices, like cable knits or Fair Isles.
So what choices do you make, and why?
Knitwear shown (with links to the articles they come from):
- Rubato grey lambswool crewneck
- Permanent Style navy fine-merino Finest Crewneck
- Stoffa grey cashmere collared knit
- Rubato brown lambswool V-neck
- Permanent Style black cashmere Indulgent Shawl Cardigan
- Permanent Style cream fine-merino collared Dartmoor
That last piece is also a nice sub-set of the question we’re discussing here: which knitwear colours are best under tailoring
They always make me chuckle these ‘if you only owned five’ articles. Should be ‘as if you only own 5’. I get the point of the articles but I suspect that most readers will own way more than 5 pieces of the garment in question as regular readers will undoubtedly be subject to the driving force of consumerism created by this site and others similar.
Thanks Adrian, though if you get the point of them I don’t quite see the point of the comment. On consumerism, I’ve written about that previously here
As someone who is not young but steered clear of knitwear until discovering that cashmere wasn’t unbearably itchy, this article is helpful.
I am a regular reader and own way less than 5. This site In my opinion promotes quality and buying less over rampant consumerism. This is why I love permanent style.
It’s interesting that you would consider this site as a force for consumerism Adrian, as my sense is that it is actually anti-consumerism. The philosophy that comes across to me is to; buy quality versatile items, take care of them, repair them and keep them for a long time to enjoy how quality ages well.
These capsule articles emphasise versatility, and combined with the ‘Which Office are You?’ articles are excellent examples of how one can utilise fewer, versatile pieces to create multiple ‘looks’ rather than having to acquire an outfit for every separate occasion and context.
“but I suspect that most readers will own way more than 5 pieces of the garment in question”
that’s somewhat irrelevant. i own more than five sweaters, indeed, but thinking about what are the most essential five still helps. first, because i might discover i have a gap in my collection i need to fill (so more consumerism i guess). second, because as some of my sweaters wear out, this can help me decide if i should replace them or not (so less consumerism).
used this way, articles like this lead to less consumerism overall for people who have plenty of clothes.
“If only you owned just five pieces of knitwear”
This is one of the best posts I’ve ever seen!
It just nails it for me.
I’ve a few jumpers the wrong colour and will be replaced eventually.
My go to makers are Smedley ( in the sales)and North Sea ( look out for the frequent sales) but I may add other makers over time. I’m not averse to cheaper makers though.
Any thoughts or suggestions on cheaper makers Simon?
William Crabtree is good value, and Scottish knitters like Harley are good too. Luca Faloni is good for the more Italian knits
Thanks again
Lindsay
Howlin uses Harley to do it’s knits and they seem to be about the same quality. Good if you can find a sale on some of their less outlandish stuff.
Jamieson does solid low-stretch knits, but I’ve found the way they dye their wool to feel a bit too synthetic feeling (single bright colours). Nothing wrong with that, but I love when people make the most of wool knits’ ability to sneak in colour variation. Oh – Jamiesons also use plastic fake leather buttons. That said – I’m wearing a Jamiesons fair isle right now, and don’t feel too much aesthetic pain when I look at the yarn.
I think the best way to wear a roll neck is as a base layer. I often do it with a crew neck. Turning the roll inside makes it a little smarter.
I so love my chunky, cotton shawl . Makes a nice change from the ubiquitous aran. I think I spotted one in Oppenheimer.
Turning the roll of a roll neck inside Peter? Maybe I’m misunderstanding that, but doesn’t it slowly come out, or become a little uncomfortable?
Not had that experience. I have a short neck, and it work best with a thinner one. It avoids me looking like Smiffy from the Beano.
I wouldn’t do it with a chunky roll neck.
Hmm, interesting, thanks Peter. And yes I can see easier with a thinner one
Great tip! I’ll try it out 🙂
How versatile would you rate the “natural” colour from Rubato?
https://www.atemporubato.com/products/standard-crew-neck-in-natural
I only own jeans from them so far (off-white and indigo), so I know the first knit to try from them should probably be the navy crewneck. (I also realize that if I would only pair the knits with my Rubato jeans, grey and natural are probably easier than the navy crew…)
I’d say it’s as versatile as a beige-type colour like that is going to be. It’s a great colour, and really nice with white jeans, mid-blue and washed black, as well as things like green.
Compared to other lists like this, I think this one on knitwear has a smaller difference between each colour than others, eg jackets or trousers. I wouldn’t feel you have to get the navy, and as I said at the start it is dependent on what else you wear (eg how much other navy)
Will you say it’s more versatile than the fawn?
https://www.atemporubato.com/products/standard-crew-neck-in-fawn
I’d say they’re about the same. On balance you’re right, I might go with the fawn. I have that in the V-neck and it is great
If you add Rubatos ”stone” color to the comparison https://www.atemporubato.com/products/standard-crew-neck-in-stone
How would you say that it compares to the Fawn or Natural colors in versatility? (Online theyre not that different). I am looking for a grey crewneck that I probably most ofter will use with raw denim and sometimes khaki chinos.
That’s basically grey, and I would say is the most versatile
Have you seen ercu in person in comparison to fawn? Which one would you prefer? It’ hard to guess for me, because the shades are different depending on the screen (iPhone/desktop) I look at. I like the ecru, but I think fawn will be more versaitle and easier to wear.
I can’t really decice which colors in which style I should choose for my next purchase. I have their v necks in earth and stone and the most obvious to buy is another v neck in navy alongside a navy cardigan for sure.
Than another cardigan plus a crewneck both in ecru or fawn, but this is were I am trapped at. Maybe one of these two colors is better for a particular style?
I also like the yellow and the new lighter blue, but I think I should go with the more versaitle colors for now.
I think you have a fair bit and a fair way to go before making the decision Dan! I’d work your way slowly through that list and add the most useful ones first.
I like ecru and fawn, slightly preferring fawn but partly because I already have one or two ecru pieces.
Are Rubato slim fit?
No. Big in the chest, shorter in the body, more of a V shape than most contemporary knitwear
Simon can I ask what size you wear for Rubato knitwear? Thanks.
It’s varied a little, but usually Medium. In the shetlands I’m a Small I think, as they’re a little bigger
Hi Simon
A lighter, flannel grey, Shetland roll neck is a favourite. Worn on its own, it feels relaxed and not clingy unlike other smoother materials. The texture adds interest, and paired with a baseball cap in a contrasting (maybe washed out) colour, can look nicely put together.
I can see how the texture makes that easier to wear on its own
Am I the only one who just doesn’t like the way cashmere feels? It often feels to me like it’s been rubbed with butter, or oil (yes, I’m talking about the expensive kind of cashmere, not the 89,99€ kind), and I feel like I need to wash my hands after touching it. And if your hands are dry (which usually happens during winter, the only time to wear cashmere), it tends to snag on the dry bits of skin on the knuckles, which just feels horrible.
And of course, overheating is always an issue when wearing cashmere indoors, since most public buildings and subway trains seem to be heated to a ridiculous degree, even after gas and electricity prices went through the roof.
Most of my winter sweaters are chunky merino/lambswool knits from Drumohr and Alpha Studio, which I think is the best of both worlds: smooth, soft merino fibers, knit in a way that doesn’t say “office sweater”.
Coming from New Zealand, I applaud your appreciation of sheep’s wool. Clearly the superior animal in all respects 😉
I also find cashmere too warm most of the time. I have a couple of cashmere scarves that I love but I rarely wear cashmere knitwear. If I do wear it, I always wear a base layer underneath that looks good by itself when I have to take off the knit.
I’m a chunky winter knit fan too. My wife was skeptical until she started wearing my jumpers during the cold winter in London this year and couldn’t believe how warm and soft they are. She also wears my cashmere scarves! In fact she’s said women’s knitwear is rarely warm enough for the winter.
I adore my linen jumpers (mostly from Inis Meain). They breathe, wear very cool, and drape well. Why don’t you like them?
I find they feel nice but tend to lose their shape more than cotton. Perhaps I’ve had them in too light a weight in the past, but I think I’d always prefer cotton
Rollnecks are not versatile enough for me – I can’t wear them indoors because it’s just too hot. Similarly with v-necks – can’t wear them with t-shirts, so I just don’t buy them.
My capsule would be: navy and green fine merino crewnecks, cream and brown mid-weight cashmere crewnecks, thicker navy lambswool crewneck, chunky navy shawl.
A bit outside the scope of the article, but there are also short-sleeved knitted t-shirts that I absolutely love for the ‘casual chic’ look in the summer.
Robert, Excellent call on your knitwear capsule. Getting hot indoors is an issue – for the majority of my knitwear I’ve found finer weights work best with a suitable weight jacket for the outdoors if required. Once inside the jacket comes off anyway and the body heat can regulate.
I am of very similar mind. I don’t really wear normal t-shirts anymore except as under knitwear or as loungewear at home, since knitted t-shirts have completely replaced their use.
They are much more flattering (especially for a short guy imo), and also much more versatile: by themselves, most people don’t even realize at first glance that I’m wearing knitwear rather than a standard, very casual t-shirt; on the other hand, they are much more easily dressed up by just adding a jacket, often unstructured, on top in spring or autumn.
In winter, and this is a bit funny, I actually wear chunky rollnecks mostly *at home* (since I can control the heating and use as little as possible, and also the neck gets cold but I would feel weird wearing a scarf indoors), and then actually often wear thin mocknecks when going out to most heated destinations, under a jacket and/or coat.
I do think rollnecks look better than mocknecks, but it’s a compromise I’ve decided is unavoidable until the entire retail and corporate worlds suddenly realize they over-heat their buildings. Which I wouldn’t count on.
I do understand your preference for crewnecks because of their versatility, but I think many of them are too wide and loose around the neck to look flattering without a shirt underneath. For me with a longer neck and some sloppy shoulders this is even more true.
I have shetlands in cream and mid brown from Natalino with a higher and closer fitting neck. I wear these on there own quite often and it goes well I would say, but my William Lockies with a “standard” crewneck do not work like that. With a T-Shirt underneath you can sometimes see signs of the neck of the shirt under the crewneck and I think this looks very very bad. Then you are better of with a close fitting T and a v-neck.
I think Rubato’s crewnecks have this higher/closer fitting neck too, but I prefer there v-necks. I have them in grey and brown and gonna order navy and or fawn next.
Thank you Dan. The Rubato ones do have a high neck like that, yes. Also of course with anything a little thicker like that, you won’t see the T-shirt neck underneath the knit
Colour , style , material .Fantastic structure to this article !
Maybe do the trousers and jackets capsule in the same way.
I find the hardest knitwear to nail is for transition weeks/months . With temperatures recently jumping 10 degrees in a week it’s proven even tougher to remain comfortable and I think that’s where zipped knitwear is the gap I need to fill.
Really enjoyed reading this .Thank you, Simon.
No worries Robin. I didn’t feel that structure worked quite as well with trousers and jackets, as the three things are often more closely connected – eg grey flannels are a particular colour and material, and the style isn’t that relevant
I found that mock necks looks better than roll necks on me , probably due to my shorter neck.
True, the neck length will make a big difference
I also like a mock neck because it covers more neck than a crew, but feels a little subtler and less flamboyant than a rollneck, which can sometimes feel a little too fancy or effeminate.
I know what you mean. I think unfortunately the mock neck is at the point where it’s unusualness means it draws a bit more attention as well. But perhaps less on a short neck (at which point it kind of becomes a funnel – a roll neck that doesn’t double over)
I agree that a mock neck is a bit unusual, and might draw some extra attention for that reason, but I don’t think that’s necessarily bad. The rollneck is difficult to wear because its associations with intellectuals and artists might make it look a bit pretentious on our fictional reader. A mock neck, despite it being a little unusual, lacks those connotations but achieves much that a roll neck does–it covers more neck than a crew and usually rises above a jacket collar so that it looks good under tailoring. So, while I understand that our fictional reader might be loath to draw attention to himself, he’ll also want a versatile knitwear selection, including knitwear that looks good under tailoring without a collared shirt underneath. I think the mock neck is probably the better choice for those circumstances.
That all makes sense. Personally I don’t mind the intellectual association and I think it’s better than many associations you could have, but of course it’s personal.
A mock neck does sit up under tailoring but I still feel it looks a little odd, unexpected and eye-catching like that.
An argument I’d make for considering Shetland more seriously as a first or second choice is its durability. Shetlands I’ve had for years look more or less identical to when I got them. They’re so hardy. Even lambswool requires a good deal more upkeep by comparison and will nevertheless suffer over time.
I think that can also vary a little with the knits – perhaps how densely they’re woven. Some of my looser shetlands haven’t done so well
Morning Simon,
Thanks for pointing out that it is normal to have a closet full of navy knitwear, I feel safe in numbers.
I would suggest the primary purpose of knitwear is temperature related, and so the environment you are in, (or mainly in), should be the primary factor in choosing any knitwear article.
Most styles and knits derive from a particular purpose, which would be climate driven.
I have my own experience with certain materials and styles that just do not work for me and others that are brilliant.
Cashmere in almost any style, is simply too hot for me. Maybe my time of life!
I seem to have found a good balance with Merino, whether fine knits or coarser.
I would love to know your thoughts on the temperature control element of knitwear.
Style-wise, Roll necks, cannot be opened and so a hike in temperature means I boil over, again.
Zips and button fronts suggest a solution but rarely sit well, and as you suggest, there is something about a zip right next to your face that means you have lost a sartorial element.
I tend to wear knitwear as an additional layer beneath a jacket/ on top of a shirt, my default has become fine / finer merino knits with a v-neck, whether that be a jumper, cardigan or slipover. Seemingly nearly always in the ubiquitous navy.
Finally, I do not know if you have covered elsewhere, but the biggest problem with quality knitwear is unnecessary evil of moths. It is inevitable my best loved knitwear will have been the site of moth debauchery, leaving the most evident of gaps as a crisp white shirt shines through the navy.
Thanks for the article.
Neil
No problem Neil. And yes, moths are discussed along with the method I use for prevention here
Thanks for the moth information.
The little darlings have perforated about £1000 or my most loved
jumpers. And so the super fumigator at £6.95 (per year) seems great value.
Get the moth fluid from Pest Expert.
I spray it in my wardrobe and drawers twice yearly. Top and bottom,all sides and even under the drawers and under any shelves in your wardrobe. You might want to wear a mask though… it’s quite pungent but not unpleasant to use.. just be careful.
Hope that helps somewhat!
Yes, I do the same. To be clear, the fluid is for prevention, the bombs for killing moths/eggs that are already there.
Would you be able to elaborate on why rollnecks are not that forgiving on their own, unless they are pretty chunky? I just wanted to better understand the reasoning behind that.
As a shape, a roll neck is quite a big block of a single colour, and I find tends to draw attention to, for example, a larger belly, or even the opposite, quite a thin frame. Of course it helps if it’s looser, and darker, plus chunkier as mentioned.
I completely agree that a chunky roll neck is best. I have tried merino ones in the past and found them too feminine worn on their own, or even with a jacket.
Lots of very wise, thoughtful advice here. I would have saved a lot if only I’d known earlier!
My personal five for the putative aspiring menswear nerd would be:
1; mid-weight mid-grey lambswool crew neck (for maximum versatility, as above). 2; navy fine merino crew neck a la Smedley (great with pale battered denim, but also quite smart). 3; navy mid-weight lambswool v neck cardigan (much as I enjoy a shawl collar, this is more versatile and somehow less look-at-me; I bought a William Lockie version on the recommendation of a PS reader and it’s extremely useful and substitutes for the occasions when a v neck jumper might be handy too). 4; Mid weight beige/fawn polo neck, either cashmere or lambswool (goes with all trouser colours except beige very well; both smart and casual; Harley do nice, simple wool ones; Altea do nice cashmere). 5; a hefty mariner type sweater, either in cream or in navy (Andersen-Anderson do nice navies that have always appealed, but I don’t own; I have a North Sea Clothing one in cream that I like with a slightly retro shape to it). Looking at my list, it is perhaps a little dull (much navy, a lot of mid-weight). But I think the “only five” versatility criteria makes it what I would now recommend.
Interesting article, for me particularly the section on cotton knitwear. I’m not sure why, can’t really put my finger on it exactly, but I have some kind of mental block when thinking of cotton as a material for knitwear, or should say sweaters specifically.
As silly as it sounds, I suppose it’s because I associate cotton too much with shirts and t-shirts, and to a lesser degree casual trousers but also the fact that cotton generally wears cooler and at first thought seems antithesis to knitwear which is for warmth. I’ve seen designs, particularly in A&S that I have really liked but never proceeded because of these (perhaps wrongly placed) thoughts.
A comment on durability of cotton versus various wools might good, if you could Simon?
I know what you mean JSB, it’s almost like if it had a different name as knitwear – like something being merino rather than wool, for example – people would think about it differently.
Cotton is OK for durability, and as long as it doesn’t bag out, can soften really nicely over time. Also less of an issue with moths
Thanks for your additional thoughts on cotton as knitwear, Simon.
I might just have to take another look 🙂
Hello Simon. You touch very briefly on them at the end. Please could you offer a thought on how you like to wear cable knit sweaters (or do you not like this as a style)? I cannot recall an article where you wear this.
I don’t really wear them much, you’re right. I think if it’s a bigger, chunkier style and it’s never under a coat, it can be a cool style. Like a classic Aran for example. If you want to avoid looking too traditional, nice in another colour than cream, like black for example.
But I wouldn’t put them high in this list because they tend to not be as versatile, it’s more ‘that’ sweater that you have. Less so than a Fair Isle, but even so.
I think the thing to remember with an Aran jumper is that it is traditionally worn by fishermen, essentially workwear, and so is often better paired with more chunky casual items like jeans, a heavy chino etc. For outerwear (because let’s face it the loose knit isn’t great at keeping out the wind) I would also tend towards the more casual end of the spectrum; a parka or duffle coat maybe. Certainly not the most versatile item in the wardrobe!
Thanks Brian, though I think it can look smart enough (especially in cream or navy) to be good with a tailored overcoat as well, if the coat isn’t too close fitting. Or a raglan, a balmacaan
Interesting Simon. It’s not a look I can ever recall seeing, and it’s not one I think I could pull off! Perhaps it’s down to associations. Having grown up in the west of Ireland, the Aran jumper still evokes the rugged wildness of the Atlantic for me which doesn’t sit close in my head with the refinement of a tailored overcoat.
Yes it’s all about associations in the end. I think you get the dressier association from Ivy in the US and that kind of mixing of casual and formal wear
Brian it’s not quite right to say Aran is traditionally worn by fishermen. Arans have a wide number of “patterns”, and the rope design signifies a fisherman.
The others signify many different occupations, allowing observers to identify how people earned their livings.
Interesting Patrick, that’s not an explanation I’ve heard before. I had heard that the patterns represent different aspects of island life. The cable pattern representing fishing ropes, the diamond pattern representing fishing nets, the trellis representing stone-filled fields etc. Although, my friend from the islands suggested to me that it’s more a case of describing the pattern based on what it looks like rather than it having a deeper meaning. I’ll interrogate him in more detail next time I’m over and report back!
Alex, the relative stuffiness of a cable cashmere sweater marries excellently with more casual trousers (denim and five pocket cords). Or to be a touch smarter grey flannels
what a great article!
living in Brazil my first option is always cotton (crew neck or v-neck) knit. Around here even winter is just another kind of summer. Last year I bought a fisherman sweater and cardigan, both in made of wool in Scotland and they didn’t get much use and I decided to donate them to my parents who live down south.
When you say “Our fictional reader starting out shouldn’t get one until he has at least four or five other sweaters” I believe it is probably based on PS demograph (I assume north hemisphere). In the south hemisphere I believe it’s the other way round.
cheers,
Vinny
See why you wouldn’t include vicuña in this budget-conscious/starters list. That said, why didn’t you include alpaca (esp. baby alpaca)? A good alpaca jumper shouldn’t be more expensive than comparable cashmere knitwear. Moreover, I would expect these to be available in most of the colours and styles that you recommend.
I think it’s for that reason Gonzalo – if it’s the same price and in the same styles, why go with alpaca? And if the answer is for something more unusual, then it’s kind of against the everyday point of the list I guess?
In your view, does the Colhays cashmere painters shawl cardigan have the requisite chunkiness? I really like it and think it might even be more versatile than Colhays’ original, thicker lambswool shawl since it’s more appropriate in the office, where our fictional reader probably spends a lot of time.
I have one, and it’s beautiful, but no I don’t think it does unfortunately
Hi Simon, nice article, but I was surprised not to see burgundy in the colours section – after navy, it’s my most worn colour.
I can see why it’s popular Ian, but I wouldn’t say it’s the most versatile
Hi Simon, A enlightening and interesting article. Even for more experienced readers it’s useful to see a thought through process. It also explains why I have so many navy sweaters!
A few points from me:
I agree roll necks can be a bit unforgiving especially if the face/neck is a bit fleshy and best avoided in that case. I do find however a tendency to wear them a bit on the small side doesn’t help, so even if one doesn’t go for heavy knit, sizing up a little and ideally in cashmere (or a thicker merino-not fine knit) can make a roll neck a bit more forgiving. Also always wear a layer underneath whether a long sleeve cotton t-shirt or thermal vest ina fitted style. Not only does this lessen the need for washing the sweater it als smiths the bumps a bit!
Crew necks I agree are very useful, but if wearing a shirt underneath I tend to stay away from fine knit marino as any rucks in the shirt or the buttons and placket show through so I’d tend to go for cashmere or a least heavier merino. Ideally cable knit but less good under jackets. Fine knit crew necks I find best with a crew neck T-shirts underneath.
Finally like yourself I love cotton or cotton/cashmere mix sweaters, I do however think one sweater of this type in a crew can fit into a capsule wardrobe as it’s very versatile in navy (here I go again!)- with a shirt or t-shirt underneath and trans seasonal depending on layering, also nice in cable.
Hope readers find the above useful and further food for thought.
There’s another point relating to knitwear selection (at least in my mind) that I hadn’t seen discussed here. I prefer thicker, chunkier knits for many reasons, one being that they can be folded and stored for months without much impact, whereas as the creases that arise on finely knit, lighter-weight sweaters drive me crazy.
True, it can be good to hang those with shirts if you have space
Do you have recommendations for specific brands for chunky cotton knits?
Anderson & Sheppard, Rubato, Speciale are my favourites (though all a little different.
Ghiaia Cashmere does marvelous ones!
A really useful article as I’m just thinking about adding a cardigan to my wardrobe for the autumn. Initially I was fully focussed on a shawl collar cardigan, likely in navy as it’s (for me) the most versatile, and probably a lambswool version from William Lockie. But as I’ve shopped around I’m beginning to think a standard cardigan might be more versatile in that it’s more wearable indoors (less danger of overheating) and easier to layer when outdoors. Decisions decisions.
Another helpful article would be on the role of the gilet. I have a few of these and they do tend to work most successfully with knitwear. A do’s and don’t on gilet styles and how to wear perhaps?
Sure Liam, will do.
Cardigans can be really nice, but harder to find the right style for you than a shawl – riskier, the risk being it looking a bit old-mannish or feminine
Thanks Simon, I take the point about the risk style wise with a standard cardigan.
Great article. Do you wear the fine merino crew necks and long-sleeve polos on their own or always with a jacket? I sometimes have the feeling that if I wear those alone, something is missing (like a fine shirt without a jacket).
Mostly with a jacket, but sometimes on their own as well
There is an additional assumption that you have made, i.e. that your fictional reader does not plays sports such as cricket and tennis. I recommend Alan Paine’s cricket/tennis jumpers in 100% merino wool or thick cotton. My large chest of drawers contains Shetland, lambswool, fine merino and cotton jumpers in various colours, all made in Scotland. If I was living in a place with very cold winters, I’d get some Submariner, Guernsey and Norwegian jumpers.
I think it’s more that most people wouldn’t think to wear knitwear anywhere near those sports, Gary. Not to say they shouldn’t!
Really? Most cricketers wear knitwear on cooler days but, like most sportswear garments, they are now made from synthetic fibres such as acrylic. Like football and rugby clubs, counties and city teams make large margins selling colourful strips to their fans. However, I still see local club players wearing traditional jumpers made from natural fibres.
Ralph Lauren usually has cricket and tennis jumpers in its annual summer collection but they are very expensive, £269 this year. Mine was a sale bargain from a country retailer for only £80. It’s ideal for warming up on a cool day and walking to or from my club. Alan Paine usually has a choice of several colours in both wool and cotton. Even John Lewis had its own brand version this summer so they seem to be more popular than you think.
They’re certainly around Gary, but more for style rather than sport.
I seem to prefer three colors in knitwear; cream, medium blue and navy blue. I am blonde. I like crewnecks without a shirt, just a t-shirt or a long sleeved t shirt underneath. I do have a long sleeved knit merino polo shirt that is nice to wear with a blazer. Shetland is very warm. Lambswool is comfortable indoors. Both can be worn outdoors under a coat or jacket. I am not a fan of v neck, although I do have one in a thin merino. I wear with a t shirt, not my best look. Cotton sweaters are kind of useless to me in the Midwest USA. Too hot to wear in summer, too cold in winter. I do have a few crewneck versions. They get a little wear in fall for me
It’s worth investing in black knitwear because black is so easy to wear in knitwear, but so hard to wear in other categories. Black worn right is tough to beat. But it’s hard to pull off. The best way to wear black is through knitwear–with a crewneck (without a collar underneath to avoid excess sharpness), a non-shawl cardigan (your black mohair cardigan with dark brown chinos is a perfect PS look–subtle yet unique), a knit polo, or a shawl cardigan. Because black is so great yet so difficult, and best executed through knitwear, I think our fictional customer should be gently nudged toward black knitwear.
I have found the cashmere hoodie from Luca Faloni to be the most versatile piece of knitwear I own. I understand the look isn’t for everyone, but for my style I will wear it alone, over a collared shirt, and under a sports coat. It can be fairly dressed up—I’ve worn it with a tie—though the hoodie definitely limits this from being too formal. I also would make a plug for light blue as a highly versatile color. It can be worn with navy, gray, browns, black, most denim, greens— most other staple colors in my wardrobe that are both casual and smarter.
As a starter piece I realize this can be a harder sell, but this has been my evolution after owning many more than 5 pieces of knitwear.
I really like the methodology of this article. Nice job sir.
I want to know the suede Western-style lined jacket you wear in the first photo. Great casual piece!!! Thanks
Thanks Andreas. It’s the shearling overshirt from Cromford
Great article, Simon. I was wondering if you could specify further on your problem with zips? I find chunkier wool zip cardigans to be quite versatile, especially in darker colors like olive or dark brown.
Thanks.
I think there are two issues really:
– Half zip sweaters like that are often worn with shirts underneath, and they rarely play together nicely. Compare those two different directions around the neck to how well a shirt sits under a V-neck or a crew neck
– A zip is just not as elegant as something without the hardware, most of the time. I’d almost rather it was something buttoned, or with no fastening at all. This is a smaller point, but I think it’s one worth bearing in mind. It makes them a little less suited to smarter combinations, to me
I agree that buttons usually provides a more elegant look. My problem with buttoned cardigans lies in how they interact with the waistband of the trousers. I find the buttoning points do not align with the waistband, therefore you can get a distracting opening where a shirt or t-shirt would poke out, and buttoning a lower button wouldnt be flattering. This is particulary problematic if you wear trousers or jeans with different rises. With a zipped cardigan you can adjust dependent on the trouser.
Hi Thorbjorn,
Thanks, to be honest I didn’t even realise we were talking about full-zip knitwear, only half-zip. I’d be even less inclined to wear a full-zip in a smart way, it’s quite a bit of hardware. I know what you mean about the butotns on cardigans, but it’s mostly about getting the right fit (eg not too tight in that area
On navy, I find it works well with blue trousers. I usually either wear a navy knit (thin merino or polo) tonally or like to wear complementary colours like a dark petrol green (thin merino) or purple (lambswool). But I’ve made a conscious effort to avoid just going for navy and I think knitwear is a good starting point as the texture softens the colour. Neckties and scarves, while not always as hairy, are a similar excuse for colour while still keeping the conservative base of grey trousers, blue shirt etc.
Just to recommend Uniqlo as a great starting point to try out a style without breaking the bank and then in the future getting something of a higher quality.
I’ve been very impressed by Merchant Fox, Brycelands and Anderson Sheppard offerings on their sites but have not tried in person
Thanks David. Uniqlo is indeed good value, but worth reading this article if you haven’t on what they do to get that value.
Also to add the Permanent Style shop as a recommendation on par with the other companies I mentioned
Very kind, thank you David
I think you guys are sleeping on rollnecks, they’re real ladykillers! Under a jacket they look chique and sophisticated and women notice. I agree that on their own they don’t look that great and perhaps even a little bit effeminate, but in situations where you won’t take off the jacket (like a date with the missus). They’re also a great alternative to a shirt and tie, as they frame the face nicely without requiring a tie.
Having said that, I always have great difficulty in finding good knitwear as I have rather long arms and knitwear generally comes in regular sizes like L and XL.
my capsule would be:
(1) dark blue linen sweater – i prefer linen to cotton, and the Inis Meain i have is keeping its shape pretty well so far
(2) merino black chunky rollneck – works with most of my winter pants, which are mostly various shades of grey or dark brown. it doesn’t go well with dark blue pants (except for denim) but i don’t have that many of those
(3) thick merino navy shawl collar cardigan – obvious why
(4) thick merino olive collared sweater – it goes well with my long neck and most of my winter pants (even the dark browns)
(5) dark brown shetland – i find that it’s cool enough to wear in transitional seasons along with the linen sweater, and again, the color is quite versatile.
my next choice would probably be a cream or dark blue/navy donegal sweater, or a fawn lambswool (like Rubato’s).
in retrospect, most of my sweaters should be one or two sizes larger – they just look better, and it’s easy to shrink them a little if they become too large after wearing.
Hello Simon was looking at these https://therealmccoys.com/collections/tops/products/indigo-aran-shawl-collar-cardigan over a PS Tapered T-Shirt white / Japanese Tees white and over my Chambray / PS Everyday Denim Shirt (now discontinued) over my Washed mid-blue & Indigo Jeans and Fatigue Trousers (olive). Please let me know your thoughts and if I’m thinking on the right direction here?
Thank you Simon 😊
That sounds nice Amit, I’d just avoid that and the chambray and mid-blue jeans perhaps, as it could all look too blue.
Also it would be nice to try the cardigan in person, as cotton ones like that can be very heavy
A great article, as always. You mention that charcoal knitwear places quite specific demands on the trousers, what do you mean by this?
I mean it doesn’t go with quite as many colours as navy or a mid-grey, for instance. Still nice with lots of colours, like cream, dark brown, a lot of beiges, but harder with blues/navy and greys that are similar
Absolutely not disappointed by that characterization of zips (“the devil”). I’ve seen quarter zips beautifully done (to the point that I think I want a really nice one), but then I remember all the bad examples I’ve seen and remember I probably don’t want to be in their company. It also helps me make sense of the colors I own/wear.
Hi Simon!!!
I found that a mid-to-dark blue (a gray-ish blue) is more versatile than the navy. It produces less contrast with a light-blue/white shirt for example, and the effect is more subtle, less dramatic.
I am also surprised than the burdeos is not an option (it matches very well with a wide range of colours, even the cold to the warm palette).
Assuming than the shirt is the “workhorse” of a classic wardrobe, I think that the V-neck sweater would be the first option, over the crewneck.
Finally, in the more casual side, a black rollneck sweater, a jean, a pair of boots (chukkas, for me) and a black leather jacket, is a look that every gentlemen must be use once in a lifetime, at least… (with motorbike or not, hahaha!!!).
Regards.
Hey Fred,
A mid-blue like that can be very nice, but I think not quite as versatile in terms of trousers it goes with (eg struggles with any mid-blue and with quite a few other colours (eg greens) and navy has that advantage of being quite smart too if you want that option. Of course, we’re speaking in general here and all depends on what other things you wear and how.
On the V-neck, I think a lot of people like wearing with both a T-shirt and a shirt, but of course you may not.
On the last look, to be honest I think that looks a little too much on most guys. Often looks like you’re trying a bit too hard, I find
Simon, which brands have the best fit with jeans and workwear ? Im interested in hardwearing knits since i most wear jeans
Which have the best fit of knitwear to go with jeans and workwear? I wouldn’t say there is a particular fit really – if you mean fit in terms of shape
Sorry for the late response, i had a really difficult week so i just now found time. I like mostly chilly knits and not so much the ones that are particularly made to be worn with tailoring. I also noticed something very interesting last year. As long as i live in germany where the sun is a rarity blue doesnt flatter me us much as it did when i used to live in Greece. Grey is a pretty boring color and i have mostly sweatshirts at it. Do you find a black rollneck and suede loafers/boots a good combination or something that should be avoided ? Have you found this year any nice crewneck in charcoal ?
Thanx for the time
A black rollneck can be a little tough – I quite like it with some things, but it can be a bit harsh on people or have associations they don’t want.
For a charcoal crewneck, look to Colhay’s for 2-ply, or our upcoming Finest Crewneck in that colour for something finer.
By the way, could you suggest a shawl cardigan that looks nice and you can wear it without overheating ? I tried the one of colhays last year and while it looked really nice and was flattering i found it too warm for my taste. Should i look at something with merino ? I dont want to feel the scrathiness of lambswool but cashmere is for me too warm on that volume.
Lambswool is just merino but not as fine (it’s all the merino sheep) but I would avoid shawls that are too thin as it misses the point and can look too flimsy. The Colhay’s are also thicker than most – maybe look for not quite as thick a one, eg Drakes
Nary a fisherman’s style at all. Not an Aran nor a Gansey. I like fine knitwear, but I prefer textured knitwear. Obviously, it’s more casual, but I just find it more interesting to the eye. Granted, the shawl collar cardigan has nice texture and body to it.
Honestly I think your article is a bit self indulgent Simon, but I suppose that’s on brand for your namesake cardigans…
Navy sweaters in merino and lambswool are the most affordable and cost effective when starting out, everyone knows this.
In reality beyond navy sweaters for work it’s all down to personal preference. A person could get by with a navy sweater in every variety when starting out, and never really need more. The reason being that navy knitwear and jeans work together. It’s informal, yet classic. Given how much you push jeans I’m surprised they didn’t feature in this article…
I know what you mean about cashmere vs merino/lambswool Ivan, it’s just that good cashmere is so widely available these days, and can age very well if looked after.
I did mention things going with jeans or not
True, that’s a fair call considering your average reader is potentially more willing to take care of clothes then the average punter.
Yes, you did also mention dark wash jeans, but I more so meant the “classic” mid wash of jeans most people tend to own. Again in menswear dark wash jeans are coveted, so it makes sense a begginer would have those too.
I suppose we’ve reached an understanding here Simon.
P.S. readers take care of your knitwear especially if it’s from the P.S shop and you’ll enjoy it longer!
Cheers Ivan, and agree – cordial agreed disagreement, the perfect way to end any discussion
Great article to do to your list . My personal preference would be lightweight cotton crew and v necks that I find enjoyable useful and durable. (A winning combination). Not so fond of darker greys and navy’s as they feel a bit to much the colours of the office.
Great survey, as usual. But I think you underrate the utility and style of a black cashmere crewneck. It looks great with jeans, chinos, or even medium grey or brown wool trousers. Can be worn with a simple white tee shirt or a collared shirt underneath. I agree that grey is the most versatile, but I would put black over navy for a wool sweater. And save the navy for a chunky cotton v-neck for cooler summer days or evenings.
my most used knits are the navy cashmere crewneck, grey lambswool and ivory heavy shawl cardigan all from colhays. I’ve added some nice alpaca knits in orange, pale green cashmere and a lilac howlin’ lambswool as I’ve gotten more comfortable with colours.
Hi Simon. Do you think there is any scope for a PS “finest cotton sweater” in the future?
Potentially yes, though I wouldn’t go as fine as the Finest Crewneck – I’d go chunkier cotton
Hey Simon,
Beautiful read and well timed. I’m about to buy some more versatile pieces for the coming autumn.
Rubato has become my go-to here. Have you ever tried their rather new cardigans? If so: how would you rank them in terms of versatility? I’m asking because regarding weight I’d rank them somewhere between the common chunkier Shawl cardigans and finer cardigans, e.g Smedley
I think the weight is perfect and the cut is good too. I wasn’t sure about the button choices with some of them, but that’s an easy thing to change
Many thanks for this, Simon! This is very timely. I’m 23, just starting a career which demands a corporate (or thereabouts) wardrobe, and soon I’ll be going to Europe (from New Zealand) for the first time. In New Zealand, merino is abundant, but other lamb wool fibres, like Shetland, or quality cashmere are scarce (if there are other readers from NZ who can correct me, I’d be grateful to them). Looking forward to browsing what Europe has to offer, armed with your sage advice. Thanks very much!
Hello Simon, great addition to the ‘five pieces’ series.Two questions, if I may:
1) Have you considered releasing a lighter-weight version of the PS Rugby? There are many polos out there, but I find them floppy in the collar, with a far too low neckline. The Rugby nailed it, and a 2-ply version would be welcome.
2) Do you think this dark brown shawl cardigan from Colhays is sufficiently dark to be considered a cold colour? https://colhays.com/collections/superfine-lambswool/products/superfine-lambswool-shawl-collar-cardigan-in-dark-brown
Many thanks.
1) Interesting one. Part of the point of the Rugby was that thickness, which very few people do, so I think it’s unlikely we will to be honest. Have you looked at the Colhay’s ones, perhaps the Father’s Polo I think it’s called?
2) Yes, that’s a great colour
Thank you, Simon.
And thanks for the pointer towards Colhay’s. I see they have a promising looking 2-ply cashmere polo:
Cashmere Polo Shirt in Dark Brown – Colhay’s (colhays.com)
The description claims that the collar has extra structure so that it doesn’t fall down, so it sounds promising. My previous experience has been with Luca Faloni and Trunk, both of which were very floppy.
Just one more question: brown suede shoes with dark brown knitwear – is it too much of a look? If the shoes were calf then i don’t think it would be an issue as they are more reflective of light. But suede and knitwear both suck up colour and i was worried may look rather contrived worn together.
Thank again.
I don’t think so John, no. Worth being aware of it, and making your own decision in the mirror perhaps, but it’s certainly something I wear. If you keep it in mind, chances are you’ll make the right call
Thanks Simon, appreciate your comments, as always.
Black is underrated, it is a basic which works great in many occasions. In term of colour, navy remains number 1, but black is number 2 for me when grey is just a no colour: which works with more or less anything but most of the time is not great, just a bit boring. I love roll neck cashmeres from mid October to mid March. Not too light, not to heavy, in Navy or Black, it covers 90% of all situations, with denim, chinos and any kind of coats or jackets… Laid back and always smart.
Eric,
You might want to to refer to my comments on Smedley’s Orion Green below any indeed the reply’s, particularly Simon’s on colour co-ordination. Smedleys also do a black of course in knitwear and shirts etc. Have a look at North Sea for those polo necks and crew necks too. Superb winter stuff here!
Ik woon in Noorwegen en waar wij wonen kan de temperatuur tot meer dan 20 graden celsius zakken.Dan ben je blin met jouw wollen ondergoed en lekkere dikke truien en sokken.Ook in de zomer draag ik een wollen hemd.Ik heb gemerkt dat het mijn lijf koel houdt in de zomer.
Hilse Elly
John Smedley offer a distinct colour, Onion Green, probably the darkest green anywhere.I wonder how it would fit in on the conservative/ formal scale. I’d like to see an example of what colours of trousers etc would match this dark green.
If it’s that dark I’d imagine it would be quite useful Lindsay, almost like a more interesting black
I agree, but what other colours eg. trousers, shirts would match with very dark green?
Black, charcoal, grey, cream (so all neutrals) probably navy, perhaps dark brown (depends on shade) some beiges too
Super
Many thanks
Lindsay
Correction Simon!!!
I meant Orion Green from John Smedley, not onion green!!
Sorry about that
Lindsay
Ha! That makes more sense
Very handy article, Simon, clean cut and to the point. Actually I would have found this very handy a few years ago when I started investing in quality knits. Got there in the end though, few pricey errors though I guess that’s part of the process, know my colours now, what I find most useful etc.
As an aside, can I throw in my vote for another ‘favourite ever pieces’ to round out the year again? Think you skipped last year, but I found it a great read over a couple of coffees over the previous holiday season, checking other readers favourites, some real gems and crackers in there.
Thanks CK.
You mean the article we did that came out of the PS Awards? To be honest I don’t think we would do that again, as the awards are meant to be different each time – and I think on that particular topic, people’s answers would be quite similar? Unless we did it in a different category perhaps, like favourite suit ever, or favourite workwear ever
Had to have a quick look back just to double check, yeah that’s the one. Totally take your point now I think about it, however absolutely a little tweak to the category would be good, just always interested to find out what other readers have purchased they’re excited about, what their all time favourites in the wardrobe are etc. Workwear would be a great one actually.
Ok nice, thanks CK
I second Lindsay’s recommendation of North Sea, excellent quality and value.
Many thanks. North Sea are great people and great products but not for Summer!
Summer equivalents would probably be Smedley or equivalent.
Lindsay
Hi Simon not sure if anyone’s mentioned but there seems to be a massive delay when open ring your mobile site. I get a white screens for quite a while before the site opens. Initially I thought the site was down
Thanks Adam. I don’t seem to have that myself (just checked). Would you mind telling me if the issue persists?
I had this issue for a couple of weeks on Android. I found that clearing my cache solved the issue. Hope this helps!
Thanks James
It’s been like that for few weeks for me. I’m on Vodafone and use an iPhone
Cheers Adam. I’ll look into this – do clear your cache too and let me know if that helps
I have the same issue.
Thanks Markus. Does it help if you clear your cache?
I am afraid not. I use an I-Phone.
Hmm, ok thank you Markus
Any ideas about silk for knitwear ?
Sometimes it can be nice for finer knits, though to be honest when I’ve tried it I usually end up preferring fine merino or cotton
Just here to say thank you and you are goated.
Lightweight V-necks and chunky shawl cardigans FTW. Sums up my entire stack of knitwear. And not a zipper in sight.
I particularly like my lambs wool L.L. Bean shawl cardigan. A bit pedestrian, perhaps, but it does the job admirably.
And I also like to wear ties with my knitwear whenever practical. It just feels more… complete.
Agreed that v-necks aren’t quite as versatile – but how DO feel they look over a T-shirt (if the v isn’t too deep?
Most of the time, not great. I think there is a nice style there, but it needs to be a real style and leant into. That normally means a bigger size of knit, maybe a short-sleeve, and it looks best on guys that are more built, that don’t need the shape of a collar around the neck as much
Good points! Thanks.
Can only agree about zips. I own a navy Merino full-zip sweater but have had difficulty finding a suitable use for it. The color and material make it smart but the zip makes it sporty and those things just seem to clash.
I’ve tried to treat it as kind of a blazer with a shirt or polo underneath but that doesn’t work. I’ve tried to treat it as a casual bomber with a t-shirt underneath, but that doesn’t work either.
For me I wear the following most:
Navy merino crew
Grey cashmere crew
Navy merino v neck
Grey merino crew
Navy merino cardigan
Black merino polo
I have browns and greens but I don’t wear them at much, but I am a bit addicted to navy.
Hi Simon – what’s your take on wool/poly blends? I purchased a 80/20 wool/poly Doppiaa turtleneck from a high-profile web store (incidentally, it was advertised as 100% wool). The sweater feels pleasant to the touch, if a bit coarse, but I’m worried about it retaining its shape / quality in the long run.
Usually poly is only a good idea if it’s there for a specific reason – like to give a loose cotton more consistency, or some weather-resistance in a coat. I’m not sure why it would be in that knit
So The Finest Crewneck would be the #2 (closely behind #1) for color and #3 choice for material? Would you consider it a good first purchase in terms of versatility and wardrobe building? Or would cashmere be a better first piece, and if so why?
Could a grey version be in the offering in the future?
Yes it would, though of course whether it would be a good purchase depends on what else you have – it’s rare people have nothing at all. A knit in a fine merino like this would give you a good smarter option, but you may not need that.
There will be a charcoal this autumn…
I had forgotten the charcoal from the PS Shop Autumn/Winter update.
Is the versatile grey mentioned in this article a mid-grey or lighter grey?
Mid-grey
A question?
John Smedley is a representative example of Fine gauge knitwear and North Sea Clothing an example of heavy guage knitwear . I cherish both firms are they, unlike too many others, are generous with sizing and I love and buy from both of them because of this.
Who, in your opinion, would best exemplify medium guage knitwear and also allow for generous sizing for big and tall guys like myself?
I fear that Colhays, N.Peal, Faloni and possibly others are too small in sizing for me?
I don’t know the sizing ranges that much I’m afraid Lindsay, but look at someone like William Crabtree or Anderson & Sheppard for a good range of mid-weight
Excellent!!
Many thanks
Lindsay McKee
William Crabtree seems to be good and pretty keenly priced and carries larger sizes and good colours too.
Thanks again
Lindsay
I get the feeling that the advice on knitwear here at least as it regards to colour choices and versatility can be applied to sweatshirt choices too?
I wouldn’t say so I think Ian. A grey sweatshirt is always going to be the most versatile sweatshirt, and navy can be an odd choice, almost looks a bit too smart. It’s also easier to wear stronger colours like reds as the colours are softer. I’d have a grey, black, red and perhaps blue (not navy) in my first four
Hi Simon. Really interesting regarding navy in this casual context . I have a zip up hoodie in navy, and (up until now) had not been able to work out why I couldn’t get it to work. Perhaps it’s the same with a navy chore – I think you may have touched in this before. Better to go for a different shade of blue or another colour altogether?
That makes sense Daniel. A truer blue can be really nice, but I’d always want a grey first
In the autumn I mostly wear these three outerwear pieces on the weekends: Jungle jacket (same as yours), brown suede leather jacket, and most of all: the PS Wax Walker. Trousers would be mostly blue jeans (dark rubato and mid blue fullcount dartford). Would you agree that the new black crew neck from Rubato would be very versatile with those pieces? Navy would also be fine I guess (not so good with the wax walker and probably also not ideal with the jungle jacket), but I am tending towards black. Thanks!
Yes, I think that would be good
What is your opinion on knitted shirts like these?
Opinion on what aspect Keshav?
Can it be part of a classic wardrobe or does it look a bit odd?
It can be in really classic colours, but if you’re starting to build up a wardrobe, it’s not where I’d start
I just discovered WHY I’m drawn to, and so very impressed by Shawl Collared Cardigan Sweaters. They’re an easy and grand substitute for wearing a Blazer. Especially a Navy Blue or Black shawl collared cardigan. And they give the viewer (as well as the wearer) a very warm feeling internally. I’d like to find an equivalent sweater to this Double-Breasted shawl-collared cardigan for well under the $2000.00 price of this Ralph Lauren cardigan with metal buttons. Does anyone happen to know where to find something similar?
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Hi Simon,
How do you find the Rubato Nonpareil crew necks fall in the formality scale?
What about the warmth? I see they are cotton, but they look a bit thicker than their lambswool crew necks. Cooler than both lambswool and cashmere, I would guess.
So they’ve done various Nonpareil crewnecks. If you mean the cotton ones, then I’d say they could still be quite smart in something like navy or similarly smart colour.
They are thick, but still not something for real cold weather – more for summer evenings or really warm climates
Perfect, thank you!
I have a thin cashmere V-neck in navy made by Loro Piano. Definitely one of their “classics”. It has now started to have a lot of signs of hard wear and I am looking for something similar. But I think that the prices of Loro Piano are too high and I would prefer a cloth like the one you are using in your “finest crewneck”. Do you have any recommendations? I see that Colhay have nice v-necks but they are in a heavier lambswool.
Any recommendations?
For that kind of finer merino, perhaps Smedley?
Why do roll necks look unflattering. For fat people?
If they’re not that chunky, the big expanse of knit is often not that flattering as it doesn’t have the neckline of a shirt or another knit. On most body types unless they’re athletic, in which case the type doesn’t matter that much
Thank you for the timely article!
I’ve been culling my own knitwear to better reflect what I actually use. I’ve finally settled on a black cashmere crew neck (worn on its own, no jacket), navy casual “military” jumper (worn with jeans), Fine gauge merino roll necks in navy, snow (worn out, under a jacket).
Now, I feel comfortable buying the best quality I can afford in each.
I love the feel of a cashmere sweater, even if I can only wear it occasionally. (It’s generally too warm, but there are 6-8 weeks where it’s ideal.)
What are your thought on the 70/30 cashmere silk blends?
They can look a little dressy, so it depends how smart you want to be. Unless it’s a fairly thick gauge, I wouldn’t be wearing them with jeans etc
Hi Simon, I was wondering what kind of knitwear you’d recommend to be worn with a business suit and tie for when it’s cold and a coat isn’t enough?
A sleeveless cardigan under the jacket is the most practical, if that style works for you. Eg here
Hi Simon, could I ask what you think would go well under the black V-neck sweater other than white and cream shirts/polos?
Many thanks,
Jack
A pale denim would be nice, just has to be pale enough
Thanks, Simon. I tried it with pale denim and it looks nice. Do you think pale pink or blue shirts could work as well? I thought the white polo underneath would certainly go well but it looks like there is a bit too much contrast which makes the whole outfit look a bit boring to me. What would you say?
Yes I can imagine that. You want cream or a pale grey rather than white. Pale pink and very pale blue can be good. Look up the pieces about black jackets too – they have good suggestions for colour combinations
Ah, great, that’s very useful indeed!
Also stripes
Hi Simon,
I’m working on upgrading my wardrobe, and I think my next purchase will be a long sleeve knit polo (something along the lines of ‘casual chic’). I figure that going for a long sleeve knit polo – rather than something like pique – would go well with flannels.
Most of the time I won’t be wearing it with a jacket, but may do so occasionally. I wanted to see if there are, say, 2 or 3 brands that you might recommend who do this well that I could check out.
I appreciate any thoughts or advice you have.
Nice thought process Andrew. I’d say Colhay’s are worth looking at, and William Crabtree. Lockie sell a little under their own label on small stores. Of course our Cashmere Rugby is great but a bit thick for under tailoring (twice the thickness, 4 ply rather than 2)
Hello Simon,
I have a few questions about brands that sell chashmere sweaters (crew- or rollnecks) that are not – at least not regularily mentioned – on Permanent Style and one question about Shetland sweaters:
Do you have any experience with the following brands or feedback from somebody you trust (cashmere products):
+ Johnstons of Elgin, who have their own factory I believe
+ Malo, who also have their own factory I believe
+ Drumohr
Have you tried the Connoly Shetland Sweaters?
Your advice would be very much appreciated.
Kr Markus
– Johnstons certainly do, but I’ve never tried their knits. I’m sure they’ll be good, but I’d want to see the fit and style in person, without a brand in between
– Malo and Drumohr I haven’t tried I’m afraid
– Connolly I have tried the shetlands though don’t own any. They are very nice, if expensive
Thanks a lot.
Hello Simon, any thoughts on Rubato’s new Brushed Shetlands? Curious if you’ve seen them in person and any thoughts if so. Thanks much
I tried them in New York. Very nice colour range, as you’d expect from Rubato. A bigger fit (I would take a small rather than a medium) than the regular knits.
In general though I rarely seem to wear shetlands these days. I have a couple (A&S, Trunk) that I like for the colours sometimes (yellow, cream) but generally I prefer plain lambswool or cashmere
@Simon – What is the jacket you’re wearing in the first image please?
The shearling jacket I designed for Cromford – covered here
That’s ridiculous I thought I’m selecting profile pic but instead I posted a photo of mine in comment 🙂
Sorry Dmitriy, I’ve deleted that comment. Feel free to post again
One thing is to read an article and absolutely different thing is to try to read most of comments below – it takes much more time.
Either way, thanks for the article. Now I’m considering to acquire a shawl cardigan – something I’ve never considered before.
Hello Simon,
this is a very well written and helpful article for someone who is building a wardrobe.
What particularly interests me – as someone who already has quite a lot of knitwear – are your articles on knitwear styles with a history that is unfortunately not found much on the European continent. For example, you and also Manish have written very interesting pieces about Shetland sweaters of which I have never heard before but am now the proud owner of two.
Hence a suggestion: An article on slightly more unusual styles and your opinion on them would be very interesting, e.g. on Fair Isle Sweaters, Donegal Sweaters, Aran Sweaters, Argyle knits, tennis/polo sweaters, or even something more exotic but heaving its particular niche like Lopapeysa sweaters (Iceland, a favorite of mine and being close to a national symbol), or traditional Norwegian sweaters.
All these might not really be your style, but they might interest readers of PS having bought all the basics and more. I would be particularly interested to know which of these types you think are wearable in a classic men’s wardrobe plus recommendable producers.
Kind regards,
Markus
Thank you Markus, that’s a nice idea
Hi Simon, please can you advise on what to look for thick/chunky fabric wise which is soft against the skin?
I’ve tried sweaters and cardigans from the likes of William Lockie, Peregrine and Outdoor Knitwear using, Geelong, British Wool and Merino wool and they are all scratchy/itchy.
The only fabrics I’ve found nice against the skin are Cashmere, Cashmere & Silk blends.
Thanks so much.
Joel
Hi Joel,
If you’ve tried all of those, it may be you need cashmere or fine merino wool (making a finer, smarter knit). There is information on this in the Guide to Knitwear.
Hi Simon, I was wondering if you have Rubato natural colour knitwear (https://www.atemporubato.com/en-gb/products/standard-v-neck-in-natural)? If so, or if you have seen it in person, do you think this colour could pair well with mid-grey and charbrown Fox flannel trousers?
Many thanks,
Jack
I haven’t, but I suspect you might want more contrast with that shade of grey and with the brown