Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

September 19th 2018

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the Institut National Metiers d&r...

Paris: Lafayette Saltiel, Kenjiro Suzuki, Ateliers ...

Samuel Gassmann Last week I was in Paris for two days, catching up with old friends and artisans, and seeing a few new ones. One of the most interesting things was an interview with Lyne Cohen Solal, the new head of the...

Accessories - BagsSeptember 19th 2018

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

August 20th 2018

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better online than others, such ...

Meyrowitz sunglasses with tailoring; Paying for goo...

The harder it is to know whether something fits well, or suits you, the more valuable expert advice is. And the more valuable it is to have it in person. (It’s one reason some categories, like accessories, work better...

GlassesAugust 20th 2018

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

July 23rd 2018

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factory back in November, I&...

Kirk Originals sunglasses, Simpson London, and the ...

The two new brands at this iteration of the ‘Permanent Style presents’ pop-up shop were Kirk Originals and Simpson London. But while readers will be relatively familiar with Simpson, given I covered their new factor...

Bags - GlassesJuly 23rd 2018

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

June 29th 2018

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...

Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rakis...

If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from D...

Glasses - JacketsJune 29th 2018

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story in tonal variation...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

I've always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D'Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top h...

Accessories - GlassesJune 11th 2018

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

April 20th 2018

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory in Amritsa...

Holiday snaps: Eidos, Aspesi, Doek, Drake’s

Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees. We took the opportunity to visit th...

Casual wear - GlassesApril 20th 2018

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

September 8th 2017

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like Lindberg and discussing future d...

The growth of bespoke and customised glasses

The following feature was commissioned by an international fashion magazine, but later cancelled. I have reproduced it here as I think it rounds out some of our discussion of bespoke eyewear - bringing in makers like L...

Accessories - GlassesSeptember 8th 2017

Accessories for holiday

August 7th 2017

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on. So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holiday this summer. 1 Bower &...

Accessories for holiday

Following my post two weeks ago on what I pack for travel, a reader asked about non-clothing items - electronics, toiletries and so on.  So here are a few of my favourite things, which will certainly be going on holida...

Accessories - BagsAugust 7th 2017

My desk

July 5th 2017

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the most important Permanent Style-r...

My desk

Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year.  Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the m...

Accessories - BootJuly 5th 2017

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

May 24th 2017

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is the only bespoke glasses-maker in...

Ludovic Lunetier – bespoke glasses, Brussels

During an event in Brussels last year I met the young glasses-maker Ludovic Elens, who runs Lunetier Ludovic just off Place du Sablon. Ludovic is worth highlighting for many reasons, but most obviously because he is th...

Accessories - GlassesMay 24th 2017

Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear, ...

April 19th 2017

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab of coloured plastic, an...

Designing bespoke glasses – General Eyewear, ...

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ -  details here. Choosing a block of acetate is not something I’d bet most people have done in their lives. And it’s tricky. Looking at a slab ...

Accessories - GlassesApril 19th 2017

General Eyewear: bespoke and ready-made glasses, Ca...

March 7th 2017

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. General Eyewear has historically been a source of vintage inspiration for glasses, supplying designer brands and costume designers. But as it has starting selling...

General Eyewear: bespoke and ready-made glasses, Ca...

Note: General Eyewear now has a store in Soho as well as the Camden HQ - details here. General Eyewear has historically been a source of vintage inspiration for glasses, supplying designer brands and costume designers. ...

Accessories - GlassesMarch 7th 2017

The Dunhill archive

February 1st 2017

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest often have the least to shout...

The Dunhill archive

As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions.  This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardes...

Accessories - Casual wearFebruary 1st 2017

Brussels craft event

October 30th 2016

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as several others. Those others are: ...

Brussels craft event

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as seve...

Accessories - GlassesOctober 30th 2016

The suede blouson for travel

August 10th 2016

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar. Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alternative to a tailored jacket. ...

The suede blouson for travel

Blousons come in many shapes and sizes, but they are united by a short length, fuller body and collar.  Blousons work particularly well with higher-waisted tailored trousers, and for that reason make a great casual alt...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 10th 2016

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

August 1st 2016

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, 'Dani' espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after a week of wearing them every da...

Holiday snaps: Linen bomber, cotton trousers, espad...

A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat.  First, above, 'Dani'  espadrilles from La Portegna. I'm still in two minds about these, after...

Accessories - Casual jacketsAugust 1st 2016

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

May 31st 2016

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes ...

Colour combinations, from casual to formal

The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear.  Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility...

Casual jackets - Casual wearMay 31st 2016

Maison Bourgeat – finished bespoke glasses

May 6th 2016

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume left the business. It has now re-opened under new management* A few weeks ago I received my finished bespoke glasses from Maison Bourgeat in Paris. The results are superb ...

Maison Bourgeat – finished bespoke glasses

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume left the business. It has now re-opened under new management*   A few weeks ago I received my finished bespoke glasses from Maison Bourgeat in Paris....

Accessories - GlassesMay 6th 2016

Brands review III: Son of a Tailor, d’Alember...

February 5th 2016

This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t quite make that grade. As e...

Brands review III: Son of a Tailor, d’Alember...

   This has become a Permanent Style feature in the past couple of years. An opportunity to mention the dozens of brands that email asking me to review their product, but never get a full post because they don’t...

Belts and wallets - GlassesFebruary 5th 2016

Maison Bourgeat – bespoke glasses, Paris

January 4th 2016

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume has left. The shop has now re-opened under new management* Maison Bourgeat is an old French glasses manufacturer that was relaunched last year as a bespoke outfit, with a beaut...

Maison Bourgeat – bespoke glasses, Paris

*Since this article was written, Maison Bourgeat closed and Guillaume has left. The shop has now re-opened under new management*     Maison Bourgeat is an old French glasses manufacturer that was relaunched last...

GlassesJanuary 4th 2016

Review: The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

November 8th 2015

A few weeks ago, Fabio Attanasi of The Bespoke Dudes blog offered to send me some of his glasses to review. I was interested in what he had produced – and it was a good excuse to return to the quality aspects of glasses and acetate. Rather l...

Review: The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

   A few weeks ago, Fabio Attanasi of The Bespoke Dudes blog offered to send me some of his glasses to review. I was interested in what he had produced – and it was a good excuse to return to the quality aspects of g...

Accessories - GlassesNovember 8th 2015

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

February 18th 2015

My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Here, then, are five more, ...

Reflections on bespoke 2: J Panther, Tom Davies and...

  My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise. Her...

Accessories - BagsFebruary 18th 2015

Tortoiseshell and kidskin

December 16th 2013

As someone who has spent too much of the past year redeveloping a website, I take my hat off to Will, who has accomplished a much more fundamental redesign over at A Suitable Wardrobe – melding the blog with the ASW store. One of the hardest th...

Tortoiseshell and kidskin

As someone who has spent too much of the past year redeveloping a website, I take my hat off to Will, who has accomplished a much more fundamental redesign over at A Suitable Wardrobe – melding the blog with the ASW st...

Accessories - GlassesDecember 16th 2013

Dressing for the summer, and the kids

September 2nd 2013

I’ve been on holiday the past two weeks in the south of France; apologies for the tardiness confirming some comments. For those interested in more casual dress, here is something from last week, with my youngest hiding her face wisely from the ...

Dressing for the summer, and the kids

I’ve been on holiday the past two weeks in the south of France; apologies for the tardiness confirming some comments. For those interested in more casual dress, here is something from last week, with my youngest hiding...

Casual wear - GlassesSeptember 2nd 2013

Cutler & Gross – interview with CEO Majid...

April 3rd 2013

0 0 1 1241 7075 Euromoney Institiutional Investor PLC 58 16 8300 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-st...

Cutler & Gross – interview with CEO Majid...

0 0 1 1241 7075 Euromoney Institiutional Investor PLC 58 16 8300 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso...

Accessories - GlassesApril 3rd 2013