This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment.The suit is green cotton gabardine – an i...

 UPDATE: A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury - it's [email protected] and [email protected]. (Zach is taking appointments and measurements for Saint Crispin's.)  I go...

 When a man has collected a few nice things, his thoughts turn to nice things to put things in. And of course it’s a good excuse to learn about how something else is made – in this case, bespoke jewellery boxes. The model here is sold by Linkson...

I commissioned this suit from J Mueser in New York last year - in black mohair, using the bespoke service they offer alongside the normal (and more commonly used) made-to-measure.  The idea was to explore different ways of using mohair, given all it...

Last year, I wrote about how one of my favourite tailors in Milan - Ferdinando Caraceni - was closing. It was an interesting article about the challenges of running a bespoke tailor today, but sad for all the customers that had built up a relationshi...

Max Dietl and Curd Ju?rgens. I’ve always found Germany an interesting country stylistically - one with a rich bespoke past but little left today, perhaps hampered by its attitude to dress and to smart clothing in general. In order to give the coun...

I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about what I need in terms of fit, and...

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal by using a casual cloth is attractive.  It retains the benefits of tailoring - the elegant...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

I mentioned a while back that I had commissioned a second suit from Graham Browne in London. And after rather too much travelling lately (Milan, Madrid, Dubai in a month; and Hong Kong next week) I’ve finally got around to watching the first step o...

In the realm of classic menswear, silk is usually restricted to discussions of ties and handkerchiefs. There is the occasional silk facing, and silk-mix jacketing, but it rarely features alone in clothing.  It was fascinating while in Japan last y...

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

Eric Musgrave is a friend, the former editor of Drapers and the author of the book Sharp Suits. He recently moved to the north of England and has been getting to know many of the makers and manufacturers there and across the border into Scotland. So ...

Assisi, the Korean tailors I have enjoyed using so much over the past year, have announced they are coming to London for the first time. They will be here at the end of February, from Friday February 28th to Sunday March 2nd. The location is yet to ...

By Manish Puri. When I started to wear more tailored clothing - and it won’t surprise you to learn that coincided with when I began to read PS regularly - it seemed to me that the epitome of elegance was the ability to mix darker jackets with light...

By Manish Puri As the seasons change, it’s become something of a Sunday ritual for me to be paid a visit at home by Michael Norman (below).  Long-time readers may recall that Michael runs a dry cleaning business specialising in bespoke and high-en...

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again.  It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

  Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first bespoke suit.I’ve alway...

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry about o...

In the past few weeks, the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery has introduced ready-to-wear, unstructured tailoring for the first time. This is interesting to explore, because one of the first things the team said when they opened the Haberdashery w...

I’ve settled into a bit of a rhythm with Korean tailors Assisi now. I love their soft-but-elegant style, I trust their fit and execution, and I know their double-breasted in particular is something I wear the hell out of.  So my next commission wa...

My old editor used to have a phrase I don’t see around much in journalism anymore – the ‘tail fin’ headline, intended to describe a headline that was mostly there for show, in the same way as a tail fin on a car. Today’s headline is one of ...

This article has been updated every four years for the past 12 years. It was originally written in 2012, and has had new versions in 2016, 2020 and now 2024.  The number of bespoke tailors we have tried and covered has increased, but the growth p...