This suit is from Jose Maria Reilo, the second of the three Spanish tailors I commissioned from in 2014. The make is good, although there are one or two issues with the fit that I’ll come to in a moment.The suit is green cotton gabardine – an i...

 UPDATE: A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury - it's [email protected] and [email protected]. (Zach is taking appointments and measurements for Saint Crispin's.)  I go...

 When a man has collected a few nice things, his thoughts turn to nice things to put things in. And of course it’s a good excuse to learn about how something else is made – in this case, bespoke jewellery boxes. The model here is sold by Linkson...

Max Dietl and Curd Ju?rgens. I’ve always found Germany an interesting country stylistically - one with a rich bespoke past but little left today, perhaps hampered by its attitude to dress and to smart clothing in general. In order to give the coun...

I recently had these boots made bespoke by Roberto Ugolini in Florence, and they have turned out very well. I have two reflections about bespoke shoes off the back of them. One is that I am increasingly specific about what I need in terms of fit, and...

The attraction of denim for the modern, sartorial man is easy to understand.  In an age when clothing is increasingly casual, making tailoring less formal by using a casual cloth is attractive.  It retains the benefits of tailoring - the elegant...

I've always found cotton very appealing for summer suits, but historically haven't had much luck with them.I had a navy one made by Choppin & Lodge, but the make was really too English and structured for the material (my fault, not theirs). And...

I mentioned a while back that I had commissioned a second suit from Graham Browne in London. And after rather too much travelling lately (Milan, Madrid, Dubai in a month; and Hong Kong next week) I’ve finally got around to watching the first step o...

In the realm of classic menswear, silk is usually restricted to discussions of ties and handkerchiefs. There is the occasional silk facing, and silk-mix jacketing, but it rarely features alone in clothing.  It was fascinating while in Japan last y...

My day begins around 6:30am, when my three-year-old starts shouting over the monitor that she wants to get up. That’s my job, in the highly organised division-of-labour that is our family life. I have to coax her out of her pyjamas and downstairs f...

The Cashmere Rugby - our reintroduction of the classic four-ply quality of Scottish polo - has just been restocked.  A dark navy has been added to last year's flannel grey, covering pretty much all the bases for a slightly classic, slightly better-d...

By Manish Puri As the seasons change, it’s become something of a Sunday ritual for me to be paid a visit at home by Michael Norman (below).  Long-time readers may recall that Michael runs a dry cleaning business specialising in bespoke and high-en...

This post could come under the ‘How great things age’ or the ‘Reflections on bespoke’ heading. Whatever the category, readers have asked frequently about this pea coat, how it has held up and - more specifically - whether I ever changed t...

One of the most important functional aspects of a bespoke suit is its small armhole. Or rather, the way a large sleeve can be worked into a small armhole. It means the sleeve is separated, and can move around without dragging the body with it. Howeve...

In this, the second of our films looking at the details of making a bespoke suit, we're focusing on lapels. But not necessarily the hand padding - that most obvious sign of handwork, which you can see on the back of most bespoke lapels. We've covered...

In some ways this is the hardest of the shopping guides for me to write - I know so many places so well and have so much to say. Luckily, nearly every place here is also covered elsewhere on Permanent Style. So if you want to know more about any of...

In recent weeks we’ve been talking a lot about reflections on bespoke over time; the lessons I draw from commissioning tailoring for 13 years or so. We did an article on how dramatically tailoring can be altered, using my Chittleborough & Morga...

My love of bespoke overcoats continues unabated: the thing I was most excited about this Autumn was the prospect of wearing them again.  It's annoying that, useful as they are (and arguably today, more useful than a bespoke suit) they are limited to...

Artisan of the Year 2019: Gaziano & Girling The Artisan of the Year category in our annual awards is an opportunity for me to personally recognise a bespoke maker, outside of the usual cycle of reviews and product launches. It is, in effect,...

  Floris, the storied London perfumers, recently invited me to try their fragrance customisation service. And I have to say it was one of the most pleasurable bespoke experiences I’ve ever had, rivalled only by my first bespoke suit.I’ve alway...

Over the past two or three years, a group of mostly Chinese shoemakers has come to prominence for making high quality, usually hand-welted shoes at relatively cheap prices. I’ve experienced some of these, and talked to those in the industry about o...

By Manish Puri Even when scarred with multiple, dubious stains that were immune to the efforts of the finest dry cleaners, I soldiered on with my first ever pair of cream linen trousers - commissioned eight years ago at Graham Browne. However, eventu...

By Manish Puri. During a recent trip to Madrid, I paid a visit to Casa Seseña, run by Marcos Seseña (the fourth generation of the family), and one of the few shops in the world still dedicated to making capes. In part one, I covered their 123 year-...

During a recent trip to Manchester, I visited a lovely little vintage shop called Bionic Seven. A partner store to Levison's in London, it leans towards more modern and more sports clothing, but has quite a few little gems in amongst the racks.  I d...

This cashmere coat from Cifonelli, which I've had now for nine years, is similar in many ways to the two coats we’ve covered previously in this series - from Ciardi and from Liverano. There are some technical differences, however, which makes the...