Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown

February 14th 2020

Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...

Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown

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They are good, yes, but whether they're the next best depends on what style you're after. To get a sense of that, compare this breakdown to the others in this series...

JacketsFebruary 14th 2020

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

December 11th 2019

Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London. I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like the classic style we know fr...

Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan

Match in comments:
No, they didn't need to. The bottom button was really superfluous, and in my opinion didn't look good done up, or really function well...

KnitwearDecember 11th 2019

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...

December 2nd 2019

I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and relevant. This applies ...

Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...

Match in comments:
Hi. If someone wants to flaneur, let him flaneur away. I agree that Mr. Barnes is ever seeking his perfect imperfection. All power to him. Everyone has to have their passion or quest. Mine is finding the perfect thifted ...

StyleDecember 2nd 2019

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

November 25th 2019

I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...

Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown

Match in comments:
I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....

Knitwear - ShoesNovember 25th 2019

The weekend capsule wardrobe

November 13th 2019

  A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities...

The weekend capsule wardrobe

Match in comments:
There's no simple model, just some vague rules that you'll be familiar with already probably, like not having the pieces too different in formality (eg a smart white dress shirt with faded blue jeans)...

StyleNovember 13th 2019

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...

November 4th 2019

Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...

Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...

Match in comments:
Does anybody know who is actually making A&S trousers in Italy? I'm Italian and really wondering how many let's say "rebranders" are there in the market, even at this high price point, compared with the actual amount...

TrousersNovember 4th 2019

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

August 5th 2019

Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...

Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown

Match in comments:
There are details on this original piece on the suit Henry. But I'm afraid I don't have the original reference, I just know it was a 9oz plain weave. I'd go for something more like 11oz at least today...

SuitsAugust 5th 2019

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

June 14th 2019

  Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That̵...

Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown

Match in comments:
I really like this style...

SuitsJune 14th 2019

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

May 10th 2019

Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...

Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown

Match in comments:
I think it can, yes, but it helps if it's not in business-type colours like grey or navy...

May 10th 2019

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

April 24th 2019

Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...

Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019

Match in comments:
Appreciate simon...

Bags - Casual clothingApril 24th 2019

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

April 19th 2019

Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...

Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown

Match in comments:
Ah nice...

SuitsApril 19th 2019

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

March 8th 2019

In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a Neapolitan suit...

Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, Thanks, yes I can see how that would be helpful. I guess it's not normally a high priority given it's an easy thing to convert yourself, and some people use both fairly interchangeably. But if I have time I'll ...

JacketsMarch 8th 2019

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

February 6th 2019

In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...

Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown

Match in comments:
I think that's along the right lines, yes. The drape is also something you can tweak a little bit at fittings...

SuitsFebruary 6th 2019

Strong colour in accessories

February 1st 2019

The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...

Strong colour in accessories

Match in comments:
Thanks Daniel. Mine was more of a shawl-scarf, and I don't think they do it anymore I'm afraid....

Coats - Hanks and scarvesFebruary 1st 2019

How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...

January 11th 2019

I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off by the styling of hors...

How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...

Match in comments:
Sounds like a good plan Joe...

Casual clothingJanuary 11th 2019

How to layer knitwear

January 4th 2019

Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish...

How to layer knitwear

Match in comments:
Oh, that's very good for me! Thank you, Simon!...

Knitwear - StyleJanuary 4th 2019

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

December 24th 2018

The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...

Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown

Match in comments:
Hi Mike, I have had three jackets made by Solito and I love them all. Not only have I found Luigi and his father Maestro Gennaro Solito open to any thoughts I have had, but they also have had ideas for small adjustments ...

JacketsDecember 24th 2018

Christmas gift list 2018

November 30th 2018

  It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly no...

Christmas gift list 2018

Match in comments:
Good point, no in a medium now. Though that is partially preference and partially me getting a bit bigger. I take medium now...

Belts and wallets - Hanks and scarvesNovember 30th 2018

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...

November 26th 2018

Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...

Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...

Match in comments:
Great article, Manish! It's one of your best, and I found it highly relatable.  I recently lost my bespoke virginity after a 20-year wait (I think he is the one), and here are my takeaways from the fabric selection ...

JacketsNovember 26th 2018

Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...

November 2nd 2018

'Dressing up in a Dress-Down World' felt like a very timely subject for this Symposium, our first in New York. And particularly relevant in the US, perhaps, where there has always been a cultural aversion to dressing too smartly - in the so-called '...

Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...

Match in comments:
It's a royal-blue flannel. I'm not sure it's available anymore I'm afraid, but that's what you're looking for....

Style - VideoNovember 2nd 2018

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

October 31st 2018

* For updates and stock please see the shop page*   Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...

Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat

Match in comments:
Have you ever pressed/ironed them? All smart trousers need that, and often cord more than others, as they do tend to bag out at the knee...

Coats - KnitwearOctober 31st 2018

The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience

October 25th 2018

The first Symposium we've held in New York was a great success last week - thank you to all of the 200+ people that came. The discussion was free-flowing and even funny in places, as we discussed dressing up and dressing down, for others and for our...

The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience

Match in comments:
There's never been a full review, but it has featured in some other posts, eg https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-i-get-dressed-in-the-morning.html...

StyleOctober 25th 2018

John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard

October 24th 2018

Coverage of our events last week in New York is going to work in reverse. First, here, is the party after the Symposium - which Anderson & Sheppard customer John Demsey (Executive Group President, Estée Lauder) held at his house in Ma...

John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard

Match in comments:
I can't say I'm a fan of patch pockets on DB, especially on the chest. I've noticed some jackets with patches on both sides, which look terrible....

Black tieOctober 24th 2018

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

July 27th 2018

When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Row houses, such as Dege...

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

Match in comments:
Hey Joel, That does feel a little long to be honest. I can see the jacket in the image could be a touch longer, but I'd worry an extra two inches would be too much, and it's a hard thing to alter. Nice to be reminded of ...

JacketsJuly 27th 2018

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style...

June 25th 2018

This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...

Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style...

Match in comments:
That would be a good idea Stefan, yes. Particularly black tie as it would be an obvious reason to have something smarter...

JacketsJune 25th 2018