Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
April 19th 2019Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
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I think these images are probably more accurate, but also just remember, things look different inside and out. Put anything in direct sunlight and it will look different. I think the shirt combination sounds great. Given...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
March 8th 2019In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a Neapolitan suit...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
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Hi Simon, Thanks, yes I can see how that would be helpful. I guess it's not normally a high priority given it's an easy thing to convert yourself, and some people use both fairly interchangeably. But if I have time I'll ...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
February 6th 2019In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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No, sorry Ken...
Strong colour in accessories
February 1st 2019The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...
Strong colour in accessories
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I can see why people might say that, but it's not something you have to do all the time, definitely. Just keep it in mind as something that might look good. Try it with, and without, and see what you think....
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
January 11th 2019I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off by the styling of hors...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
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Ah I see. Yes that makes sense, I just didn't think of that piece as that showy, but perhaps I'm gradually realising over time that it is actually, more than I thought...
How to layer knitwear
January 4th 2019Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish...
How to layer knitwear
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I have found a reasonably good solution for drying is to use a de-humidifier in a small room (I use my bathroom as depending on what type of house you live in, it is possible to overly dry out the fabric of the walls/bui...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
December 24th 2018The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
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I'd marginally prefer linen, but this cotton is nice, yes. The problem is there's a huge variation among cotton materials, from very coarse to very fine, and different finishes. I've never found another I liked quite as ...
Christmas gift list 2018
November 30th 2018It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly no...
Christmas gift list 2018
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Sorry Christopher, I've had to skip it this year, there's been so much else on. Very pleased you found it so useful though - sorry, will certainly reinstate next year......
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
November 26th 2018Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
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Yes, they probably are, the shoulder seam can vary a fair bit with style (an extended shoulder) and with type of make (the backwards slope)....
Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...
November 2nd 2018'Dressing up in a Dress-Down World' felt like a very timely subject for this Symposium, our first in New York. And particularly relevant in the US, perhaps, where there has always been a cultural aversion to dressing too smartly - in the so-called '...
Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...
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It's a royal-blue flannel. I'm not sure it's available anymore I'm afraid, but that's what you're looking for....
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
October 31st 2018* For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
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For an NYC winter I'd want something heavier and longer really....
The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience
October 25th 2018The first Symposium we've held in New York was a great success last week - thank you to all of the 200+ people that came. The discussion was free-flowing and even funny in places, as we discussed dressing up and dressing down, for others and for our...
The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience
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There's never been a full review, but it has featured in some other posts, eg https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-i-get-dressed-in-the-morning.html...
John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard
October 24th 2018Coverage of our events last week in New York is going to work in reverse. First, here, is the party after the Symposium - which Anderson & Sheppard customer John Demsey (Executive Group President, Estée Lauder) held at his house in Ma...
John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard
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I can't say I'm a fan of patch pockets on DB, especially on the chest. I've noticed some jackets with patches on both sides, which look terrible....
Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown
July 27th 2018When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Row houses, such as Dege...
Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown
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I agree, yes. I would only say I'm not sure the hacking pockets make a big difference - there probably is one, but it's small. You could also do a centre vent perhaps - I don't usually like them, but it would give that c...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style...
June 25th 2018This is the third in our Finest Tailors series breaking down the styles of the world’s finest tailors. Following on from Richard Anderson and Henry Poole, we now turn to Anderson & Sheppard. Now, Anderson & Sheppard is justly fa...
Anderson & Sheppard two-button jacket: Style...
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I would look to somewhere like Vestrucci next, yes, I think that's a good call. Although the padding element of Ciardi or Rubinacci is not that different to A&S, other areas of the cutting and the canvas would make it mo...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
June 11th 2018I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...
Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination
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Linen can look a little smart with jeans - it's a casual tailoring material, but still fairly smart overall. Navy can look a little smart being a darker, smarter colour as well. The important things in making it work are...
Vintage gold cuff
May 11th 2018My view on jewellery has always been that it should be something special, certainly emotionally and probably financially too. Men wear so little of it, and it is such a statement to do so, that it should be precious. Not a cheap leather bracelet, in...
Vintage gold cuff
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Gold bracelets can be very elegant - if you're concerned, just go thinner and simpler. A delicate cuff for instance Either ring or bracelet is fine. Personally, though, I prefer rings that are more meaningful than just p...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
May 4th 2018Last Friday was annoyingly cold, and damp. Combinations of subdued, rich colours always give me the most pleasure - but it felt particularly appropriate on a day like this. The textures of the three pieces also went well together: the fuzzy surfac...
Travel jacket, knitwear and serge trousers
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I still own it and do sometimes wear it, but not as much as I thought I would. The reason is mostly style: I find I prefer a long coat or a short blouson most of the time...
The roll neck
February 16th 2018The Spring/Summer collections may be arriving, but it’s 2 degrees outside in London, and I’m continuing a season-long love affair with roll necks. The wonderful thing about a roll neck is that it is both very practical and very stylish; ...
The roll neck
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I think that could be nice Andy, yes. I think a black and white, or grey, would be the easiest and most versatile, but blue and grey could work too...
Best Customer Service 2018: No Man Walks Alone (o...
January 24th 2018Best Customer Service of the Year: No Man Walks Alone Runners up: The Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Skoaktiebolaget Although there were many categories we could have selected for our Permanent Style awards - launched earlier this month...
Best Customer Service 2018: No Man Walks Alone (o...
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I guess things have changed. Have sent emails to them and literally no response. Emails were regarding a wide ranging of things and still no reply - reward points not credited to account - product information - order tha...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
December 11th 2017A few readers last week asked about this outfit I included in our 'High/low dressing' post. It's a combination I love, and shamelessly copied from an Italian gentleman I saw in Milan a few years ago. Men should never be afraid of taking inspiration ...
Field jacket, rollneck and flannels
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Mine's cotton, I'm afraid I don't know how a mix would age, but I'd have similar concerns to you...
Christmas gift list 2017
November 29th 2017I finally got around to putting together a Christmas gift guide for this year, which I know many readers have asked about (and like forwarding directly to their wives). I have deliberately not included either Permanent Style products here, or those ...
Christmas gift list 2017
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Only recently came across your stuff, Simon and I gotta say I love your recommendations. It feels as though you've taken your time with each product and really know what you're talking about. I only wish I'd known about ...
How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style
October 13th 2017This post is an illustrated explanation of how I wear trainers, or sneakers. As with similar exercises on the blog, I have attempted to be as structured as possible, keeping some parameters constant in order to focus on those being discussed. So in ...
How to wear trainers: Part 3. Style
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I wouldn't do it myself, I'm not sure it would look that sharp...
Our Autumn knitwear Top 10
October 11th 2017The survey we did of Spring/Summer pieces in the shops was very popular back in June. This Autumn/Winter, therefore, we thought we’d do two separate ones - the first (today) on winter knitwear, and the second on casual winter coats. As with th...
Our Autumn knitwear Top 10
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Hi Sebastian, Bear in mind that Scott & Charters was unusual in selling direct to retail as a mill, and I think over time they've proven why, as it's a hard model for a factory to do if they don't invest in the retail si...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
September 20th 2017Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...
Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...
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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...
