Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...
February 17th 2020It's dress-up time! In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety. In Audie's view, men too often go fo...
Video: Audie Charles on swapping a shirt for a sw...
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Hi Michael. Most sweaters will stretch a little if worn close and therefore pushed and stretched themselves. Wool particularly. It sounds like you might need a bigger size if you're wearing them over a shirt...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
February 14th 2020Thom Sweeney is a bit of an outlier in British tailoring. First because it’s a high-quality bespoke workshop with a stylish, effective ready-to-wear brand as well (something no one else seems able to achieve). And second because their besp...
Thom Sweeney checked jacket: Style breakdown
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They are good, yes, but whether they're the next best depends on what style you're after. To get a sense of that, compare this breakdown to the others in this series...
Introducing: The indulgent shawl-collar cardigan
December 11th 2019Two years ago, I spotted a couple of chunky sweaters on the top of a unit in the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, in London. I got them down and tried them on: they were big, ribbed shawl-collar cardigans. Like the classic style we know fr...
Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...
December 2nd 2019I think L'Étiquette is the best menswear magazine in the world at the moment. The main reason is its ability to cover bespoke tailoring and high-street casual - Caraceni and Converse - in a way that feels both easy and relevant. This applies ...
Interview with Michel Barnes – and L’...
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I would LOVE to have you as a friend and have regular coffee dates with you, merely to exchange such intelligent views in a manner that is so refreshingly devoid of dogma! Thank you Wes....
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
November 25th 2019I’m very fond of the cut of this Vestrucci suit, and it is more unusual than I realised when I first received it. Although many aspects are similar to Liverano and other related Florentine tailors, there are small and large differences. So th...
Vestrucci charcoal suit: Style Breakdown
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I'd be absolutely fine in it indoors, but I guess it depends a little on how hot you run generally. No, those other suitings would be sharper and feel a little different....
The weekend capsule wardrobe
November 13th 2019A weekend wardrobe can be a particular challenge for guys that care about their clothes. It should be relaxed and easy – not requiring much thought, and a nice change from the working week – yet cover a wide array of activities...
The weekend capsule wardrobe
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It sounds like you need something a little smarter to me James, compared to the jungle jacket or denim jacket. The linen overshirt or a suede bomber would be good choices...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
November 4th 2019Readers regularly ask about the best options for quality ready-to-wear trousers, so I thought I’d compare three I own. They're three brands that will come readily to mind for those seeking trousers in London: Drake’s, Anderson &...
Three RTW trousers compared: Drake’s, Anglo-Itali...
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I don't, sorry, I haven't tried them...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
August 5th 2019Cifonelli is one of the three best-known tailors in Paris – the others being Camps de Luca and Smalto. (Though Smalto’s influence has rather waned in recent years, as the others’ has waxed.) It is best known for the style of its...
Cifonelli navy suit: Style breakdown
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There are details on this original piece on the suit Henry. But I'm afraid I don't have the original reference, I just know it was a 9oz plain weave. I'd go for something more like 11oz at least today...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
June 14th 2019Musella-Dembech is a tiny tailor. They’re still based in the family home, even though recently they’ve expanded to make the whole appartment a working sartoria. Their reputation, however, is rather larger. That̵...
Musella-Dembech cotton suit: Style Breakdown
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I really like this style...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
May 10th 2019Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
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I think it can, yes, but it helps if it's not in business-type colours like grey or navy...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
April 24th 2019Last week the weather in London turned from 12 degrees to 22 in a couple of days. It seems that what passes for the English Spring is finally here. Of course, with most shops and brands Spring/Summer collections arrived in February, and went on sale...
Our Spring/Summer Top 10, 2019
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Appreciate simon...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
April 19th 2019Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
March 8th 2019In previous installments in this series, we analysed what could be considered the modern Neapolitan style (a Solito jacket) and the traditional one (a Ciardi suit). Next, we look at how different elements of these can be combined in a Neapolitan suit...
Rubinacci donegal jacket: Style breakdown
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Hi Simon, Thanks, yes I can see how that would be helpful. I guess it's not normally a high priority given it's an easy thing to convert yourself, and some people use both fairly interchangeably. But if I have time I'll ...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
February 6th 2019In our last installment in this Tailor Styles series, we looked at the modern incarnation of the Neapolitan jacket: light and soft, but also short with a small shoulder. Today’s suit, from Sartoria Ciardi, is the diametric opposite within Neap...
Sartoria Ciardi cotton suit: Style breakdown
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Sadly, these days I rarely have cause to raise my arms to fix my hair!...
Strong colour in accessories
February 1st 2019The tangerine orange looks nice against the brown tweed, doesn’t it? This combination, worn up to see Joshua Ellis recently, spurred a few thoughts on colour. Here they are. First, I don’t wear many strong colours just because I find tha...
Strong colour in accessories
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Thanks Daniel. Mine was more of a shawl-scarf, and I don't think they do it anymore I'm afraid....
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
January 11th 2019I’ve never had a horsehide jacket before. I did have an old, vintage one rom RRL a few years ago, but it was so old and soft that it felt nothing like this, like new horsehide. To be honest, I’d been rather put off by the styling of hors...
How to wear a horsehide jacket: Armoury x Real Mc...
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Thanks Tamaki, yes that would probably be fine. Will use email to talk further once I've had a think about and looked around for a 42! Cheers...
How to layer knitwear
January 4th 2019Layering knitwear can be both stylish and practical. Practical, because it gives particular warmth on a cold day - more, usually, than a shirt under knitwear. The multiple layers are also easy to add and remove as the temperature varies. And stylish...
How to layer knitwear
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Oh, that's very good for me! Thank you, Simon!...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
December 24th 2018The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples – which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest c...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
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Certainly worth asking about altering it, yes...
Christmas gift list 2018
November 30th 2018It’s that time of year again. The TV adverts that started a month ago should have been a warning. Below is my Christmas gift list for 2019. It is not a comprehensive list of the best menswear gifts right now. It’s certainly no...
Christmas gift list 2018
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Good point, no in a medium now. Though that is partially preference and partially me getting a bit bigger. I take medium now...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
November 26th 2018Following our last piece of bespoke tailoring to be analysed in this series – Ferdinando Caraceni in Milan – we now turn to the most famous of the Florentine tailors: Liverano & Liverano. Liverano has received such attenti...
Liverano & Liverano purple jacket: Style Bre...
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Great article, Manish! It's one of your best, and I found it highly relatable. I recently lost my bespoke virginity after a 20-year wait (I think he is the one), and here are my takeaways from the fabric selection ...
Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...
November 2nd 2018'Dressing up in a Dress-Down World' felt like a very timely subject for this Symposium, our first in New York. And particularly relevant in the US, perhaps, where there has always been a cultural aversion to dressing too smartly - in the so-called '...
Video: The New York Symposium – Dressing up...
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It's a royal-blue flannel. I'm not sure it's available anymore I'm afraid, but that's what you're looking for....
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
October 31st 2018* For updates and stock please see the shop page* Of all the things I’ve developed or helped develop over the past few years, the PS Trench Coat was one of the most satisfying. That was partly because it seemed to fill a particular ...
Introducing: The PS Bridge Coat
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Have you ever pressed/ironed them? All smart trousers need that, and often cord more than others, as they do tend to bag out at the knee...
The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience
October 25th 2018The first Symposium we've held in New York was a great success last week - thank you to all of the 200+ people that came. The discussion was free-flowing and even funny in places, as we discussed dressing up and dressing down, for others and for our...
The New York Symposium: Speakers and audience
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There's never been a full review, but it has featured in some other posts, eg https://www.permanentstyle.com/2016/03/how-i-get-dressed-in-the-morning.html...
John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard
October 24th 2018Coverage of our events last week in New York is going to work in reverse. First, here, is the party after the Symposium - which Anderson & Sheppard customer John Demsey (Executive Group President, Estée Lauder) held at his house in Ma...
John Demsey hosts Budd and Anderson & Sheppard
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I can't say I'm a fan of patch pockets on DB, especially on the chest. I've noticed some jackets with patches on both sides, which look terrible....
Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown
July 27th 2018When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Row houses, such as Dege...
Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown
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Hey Ryan, Nice to hear. That's a hard one. It looks quite old-mannish immediately, so I would be a little concerned about that. The best thing might be to try and subvert it, maybe with something like a denim shirt or bl...