Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors
August 25th 2017Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little English. It was nice to ha...
Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors
Match in comments:
Now that Gigi has died from COVID, do you know what is going to happen with Dalcuore? I see they are still doing trunk shows, but is the quality, fit, and cut going to be the same?...
How to dress for very hot weather
August 16th 2017As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end of that mon...
How to dress for very hot weather
Match in comments:
To be honest, no probably not. While it is nice if your teenage daughters like how you dress, I wouldn't say they would be near the top of my priority list (my two eldest are also teenagers). My partner, me, and my cultu...
Wear a jacket
August 14th 2017Dressing well becomes a matter of habit, over the years. You get used to wearing long socks, or high trousers, or being draped in slightly heavier cloth. But these habits have to be instilled. One I find most powerful to instil, through conscious re...
Wear a jacket
Match in comments:
Yes Peter. A good point and a good idea. Thank you...
P Johnson tailoring – Review
August 9th 2017As with most of my reviews, I wrote a first, introductory post on P Johnson last year, after they opened in London. My apologies that the full review, here, has taken so long. In that time John, James and the others have moved from the pop-up in Soh...
P Johnson tailoring – Review
Match in comments:
Thanks Andrew - really appreciate the response. I love Natalino and nearly all of my higher end trousers are from there. The thinking with the trousers is as much building up trust/ relationship before buying a suit, wit...
Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples
August 4th 2017*For more on Ettore de Cesare, and examples of the pieces he has made for me, see original post here* The workshop of Ettore de Cesare is in Vomero, a residential neighbourhood on the hill behind central Naples. But he lives in the centre of town. E...
Ettore de Cesare workshop, Naples
Match in comments:
Yes they have, thank you Ian. Or more specifically, the car coat is reversible, the overcoat unlined. I'll change that now...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
July 17th 2017This is a nice exercise in combining summery, pale colours. The challenge is being light and pale overall, while retaining enough contrast between shirt, jacket and trousers - both in colour and texture. The starting point is the jacket, made for m...
Pale summer colours (in vintage linen)
Match in comments:
Yes it was, and yes I think it would do. It would feel a little heavy, but otherwise be really nice...
Ettore de Cesare – Neapolitan summer blazer...
June 30th 2017In some ways, this navy jacket and topcoat from Ettore de Cesare are the antithesis of the Disguisery tweed jacket we featured last week. Ettore is a third-generation Neapolitan tailor known for his close-fitting, unstructured garments and leather ...
Ettore de Cesare – Neapolitan summer blazer...
Match in comments:
I'm not sure what it's called, but I always think of midnight as being something most people would look at and think was black. This is not that, I'd call it dark navy...
Wearing black (in a sports jacket)
June 26th 2017I recently remembered these shots we took last year in Japan - it was September, but Tokyo was hot and humid, as Europe has been in recent weeks. Although wool, the checked jacket is 9 ounces and half lined, wearing pretty cool. It was a useful piec...
Wearing black (in a sports jacket)
Match in comments:
Sharp sport coat! I don’t have the same reservations about black that many seem to have. To me, a very dark navy or grey is virtually indistinguishable in almost all lighting. I have a black hopsack sport coat and two ...
Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery
June 21st 2017Last year I got to know a group called The Disguisery , based in Fitzrovia. (‘Disguisery’ is a collective noun for tailors.) A trouser workshop for many houses on Savile Row, they have been branching out into jackets and suiting, and cre...
Drape and extended shoulders: The Disguisery
Match in comments:
I'd say mid-grey probably - and that goes with absolutely everything! Apart from the same colour maybe. Light grey also goes with almost anything, but the overall effect is a little more showy, a little more summery....
Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London
May 29th 2017This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about Mr Malmborg (above). Marcus...
Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London
Match in comments:
Unfortunately I have to add that my own experience with Mr Marcus Malmborg is not a good one. At best I could describe his customer service skills as very poor, and at worst he is possibly dishonest. I would advise again...
Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis op...
May 26th 2017Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. It’s been a long time coming. Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors w...
Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis op...
Match in comments:
It's very early days - I've only worn them one day. But my initial thoughts are that I like the low profile, the suede, and the low lacing - they all give them character. I wore them with workwear chinos and they were gr...
P Johnson: Contemporary, made-to-measure tailoring
April 5th 2017In a similar way to Stoffa (covered recently here), I loved the aesthetic of P Johnson tailoring before I ever got to see any in person. We are all - in our various ways - battling to show how useful, beautiful and relevant tailoring can be to the c...
P Johnson: Contemporary, made-to-measure tailoring
Match in comments:
Thanks Jack. I think it might be mostly the fact that the trend for tailoring generally (still) is for tighter and slimmer, and so that's what most factories provide. Rather like the trend in ready-made suits too. Genera...
Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James
January 9th 2017Although we discussed last week that the fit of a jacket is the most important - and flattering - part of tailoring, a waistcoat is in some ways the most satisfying. Of all the tailored garments, it is the one that sits closest to the body, and the...
Harris Tweed waistcoat, Richard James
Match in comments:
I accidentally bought too much of the PS Shetland Tweed. I'm having a jacket made, as planned, and with the excess I'm having a waistcoat made in a similar style to this one. I hope it will prove a nice standalone and la...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
January 6th 2017In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
Match in comments:
I think it's a nice cut, yes, and for a more formal shape I like it. I wouldn't necessarily do it in a Norfolk jacket though, as that's more of a country/casual piece. Also, I wouldn't necessarily recommend Sinclair them...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
November 18th 2016Looking back on it, our summer 2016 edition of the Symposium series - which focused on young tailors - was particularly interesting. It's easy to forget until you see our film, shown here, how much the backgrounds of each tailor varied. Each was als...
Video: The Young Tailors Symposium
Match in comments:
Very well done. I think the videos on this site are a nice extra touch. It adds extra value and experience to hear from the personal side of tailoring, which I think is a very wirthwhile side to this industry. Luxury ite...
A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy
November 14th 2016This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and the fit contemporary. But you...
A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy
Match in comments:
Yes, it probably would, and wouldn't wear them together today - see article here on outfits I'd wear differently...
Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, V...
October 19th 2016The Japanese tailoring tradition is relatively short. After all, until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, almost no western-style tailoring was worn in the country. The Restoration made western dress required for courtiers and bureaucrats, and increasin...
Japanese tailors: Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica, V...
Match in comments:
Got it. Thank you for your input!...
Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket
October 10th 2016This is my final cotton jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni - which fortunately I received a few weeks ago and was therefore able to wear a fair bit before the weather turned. It is obvious even now that this is a piece that will wear in beautifully. As...
Ferdinando Caraceni double-breasted cotton jacket
Match in comments:
Yes I would, good choices...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
August 29th 2016Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luc...
Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
Match in comments:
They can, but it's not a normal colour for chinos and others are usually easier...
A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
August 20th 2016Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be that consistent. I'd suggest that of those brig...
A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
Match in comments:
For that light Blue Jacket a Nantucket red trouser would Look also very Fine...
Richard James bespoke tailoring
August 12th 2016Richard James are an interesting name in bespoke tailoring. Better known for ready-to-wear suits and various accessories, they’ve actually had a bespoke operation since they set up – in a small shop at 31 Savile Row – over 20 years...
Richard James bespoke tailoring
Match in comments:
I recently saw a flyer from them offering handmade to measure and MTM. Would you please give me insight on what would the differences be? More specifically than the obvious that one involves hand work....
Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring
July 25th 2016We covered the appeal of cotton as a tailoring material generally last week, but didn't talk about the different types of cottons. There are corduroys and moleskins of course, gabardines and seersucker. But a difference I find particularly interesti...
Coarse vs fine cottons in tailoring
Match in comments:
I prefer not to have it, as elastane just pulls at you all the time, and doesn't drape in the same way. 2% is different to 5%, but still all other things being equal I'd always rather not have it...
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
May 31st 2016The colour combinations that we discuss every week in regards to formal wear, can be applied just as readily to casual wear. Although there will always be elements that don't crossover (such as the immense versatility of denim) a lot of the themes ...
Colour combinations, from casual to formal
Match in comments:
Thanks Zawaad. No, but I certainly plan something. Thanks for the suggestion...
Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock
May 24th 2016A couple of readers e-mailed yesterday to ask about the jacket I was wearing in the images of visiting Simonnot-Godard. It is the jacket I had made by Steven Hitchcock back in 2012 - a sky-blue tweed from Holland & Sherry's Harris Tweed bun...
Sky-blue tweed jacket from Steven Hitchock
Match in comments:
Yes, a muted colour in a brown or green would be nice...
Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...
May 19th 2016Hello Simon I am struggling with a lighter grey jacket like in your Caliendo denim post, or a navy jacket. Are they really that versatile to be the top 2 odd jacket colours? (As you mentioned in your oatmeal jacket post.) What are the trouser colou...
Trousers to wear with grey jackets – Reader...
Match in comments:
Pleased I could help Brian, but sorry it didn't turn out well for you. If it's helpful, there's a fair bit in our Guide to Suit Style that talks about things like this, and in the fabric guides that talk about materials ...
