It occurred to me recently that the point of, and policy on PS comments hasn't been talked about for a long time. It is usually hinted at, and only then when people skirt the edges of it. So here’s a summary, which will also become a static page o...

Assisi is a young tailoring house based in the Huam-dong area of Seoul. It was only established three years ago, but the tailor that leads it, Kim Min Soo, has been cutting for 15 years.  Like most Korean tailors I’ve seen, the team are more style...

When we went to see Nicoletta Caraceni (above) in Milan recently, she had been approached several times by the Italian media to speak about the death of Silvio Berlusconi, who was a customer for much of his life.  She didn’t want to talk on TV, bu...

By Aleks Cvetkovic. For much of my career I’ve felt like an anomaly, especially at the likes of Pitti or industry events. Principally this is because I’ve always chosen to wear structured tailoring, largely from London tailors, over the unstruct...

Now more than ever, I think it’s important to say what we stand for at Permanent Style. And one of the ways that comes across clearest is our editorial policy: what we cover, and what we don’t.  Implicitly, this defines our values. It reveals no...

So how shall we review a suit? Let me count the ways. One: style. Still the most important thing, as much as we encourage men everywhere to care more about quality and fit. I adore the style of this, my completed Musella Dembech suit. [Read my ...

  It will not surprise you to learn that I had never walked into Zilli before, the store on Bond Street with a startling amount of coloured crocodile in the window. But it turns out there is a serious craft story there, behind the reptiles and chinc...

Michael Browne is one of the most talented and creative tailors I’ve known in my time writing PS.  He is also one of the nicest. We talked for years about whether and how he would set up on his own, and when he finally did - and moved into the cur...

Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a relatively full sleeve into a smal...

 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader...

 Tailors have lower margins than other retailers. Customers of bespoke accept that, and appreciate it. But how much lower are they? In order to answer that question as much as I could, I got four London tailors – two on Savile Row, one off Savile...

  Decent made to measure. That's how I would describe this final jacket from Kiton - made for me as part of the Harrod's MTM events and described in previous posts on the commissioning and fitting. The basics are all there - sleeve length correct,...

I love how enthusiastic the reaction to our new website has been. Even a few non-digital natives have said they're coming to love the navigation.People are highlighting quite a range of different points, however.So I thought it would be useful to sh...

I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making, particularly as I was keen to bring together:A rang...

Akihiro Mizobata, Ring JacketA well-fitted jacket is the most flattering thing a man can own. It occurred to me recently - in conversation with a long-term reader - that we don’t talk about the importance of fit anymore. Yet it used to be all we t...

Meekal HashmiLast week’s readers dinner was, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more enjoyable evenings I’ve had in a long time. I say surprisingly because, as lovely as all the readers were certainly going to be, it is always hard to predict what ...

I have visited LeatherFoot in Toronto, Canada twice in the past year, and each time the aspect I have liked most is the on-site tailoring workshop. So few shops have crafts on-site, even though it gives them a direct connection to the artisan. Indeed...

Sartoria Formosa is similar in some ways to the likes of Dalcuore or Ambrosi, in that it is a traditionally bespoke Naples house that has expanded into ready-to-wear in recent years. Five years ago it did no RTW or made to measure; today they are 5...

You know when you think you’re not part of a trend, and then see everyone wearing the same thing? As a clothing snob that likes to think he’s different to everyone else, it’s very annoying. I had admired Michael Hill’s green-corduroy suit -...

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...

Most bespoke tailoring in New York is structured differently to the old houses of Europe. It tends to be based around a designer or salesman - with extensive bespoke experience - rather than a cutter.  There are exceptions of course, including Leona...

One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? Can th...

In recent weeks we’ve done more coverage of top-end made-to-measure – the likes of Orazio Luciano and Jean-Manuel Moreau, Anglo-Italian and The Armoury. Some of these approach bespoke in terms of the handwork involved, in particular hand-padding ...

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a men’s fashion magazine in the new (very nice) newsagent on Chiltern Street. I really miss good print products, and fashion magazines in particular. I think I flicked through it all in five minutes, and felt almos...

This question about knitwear worn on its own (without a shirt) came up twice recently - once in a comment about polo-collared knits (above) and once in a reader question about roll necks. So it feels like it deserves its own post.  Anyone that has w...