How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...

January 11th 2017

On Permanent Style we have always pushed the intelligent, considered acquisition of a quality wardrobe. This has many advantages. But it also has a large disadvantage: it removes, or at least makes less frequent, the unique adrenaline hit of retail. ...

How great things age: Cleverley Russian-reindeer ...

Match in comments:
No, though it did always seem like a lot! Then there were also various modern reproductions which muddied the waters somewhat...

ShoesJanuary 11th 2017

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US ac...

December 23rd 2016

The ability - or more perhaps significantly, the willingness - of Saint Crispin's to re-last a pair of shoes is a key part of their attraction. Having a personalised last is great, and arguably better value than bespoke, but as with bespoke it can ...

Saint Crispin’s: Relasting, boots and US ac...

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Hey Wes, 1) Yes 2) Two...

ShoesDecember 23rd 2016

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

December 16th 2016

These things always seem to come in bunches. First Esquire named me in a top 10 and now Plaza Uomo have published their latest edition, with a profile of me as the cover story. Plaza is a Swedish fashion magazine, and Plaza Uomo has an English ver...

Cover story in Plaza Uomo

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Hi Neil, Has your copy come through yet?...

Coats - HatsDecember 16th 2016

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

December 15th 2016

Ludwig Reiter is an old shoemaker used to catering to a wide variety of customers. It sells bags, sandals and trainers alongside oxfords and brogues, for both men and women. Many of the styles also look a little old fashioned, but there are some hid...

Ludwig Reiter shoes – Factory visit

Match in comments:
Yes that would be a decent comparison. Reiter make a much wider range of shoes though...

ShoesDecember 15th 2016

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki...

November 28th 2016

There is a bewildering number of shoemakers in Japan, somewhere between 35 and 40 depending on how you count. Although many have people working for them, they are all essentially sole operators. One person founded the house, is in charge, and there ...

Japanese shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Marquess, Yuki...

Match in comments:
It wasn't that good if I recall correctly Dominic, but it was a few years ago so I'm not absolutely sure...

ShoesNovember 28th 2016

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

November 14th 2016

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake's regarding corduroy. The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and the fit contemporary. But you...

A pale-grey jacket with green corduroy

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Yes, it probably would, and wouldn't wear them together today - see article here on outfits I'd wear differently...

Bags - CoatsNovember 14th 2016

Brussels craft event

October 30th 2016

At the beginning of December, there will be an event in Brussels bringing together some of the craftsmen that featured in the Permanent Style trunk show last month - Lavabre Cadet and Michel Heurtault - as well as several others. Those others are: ...

Brussels craft event

Match in comments:
Dear Simon, I am moving to Brussels and wanted to know if there is local bespoke tailors or if foreign ones are doing trunk shows in Brussels or other cities in Belgium. Thanks for your help KS...

Glasses and jewellery - Hanks and scarvesOctober 30th 2016

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

October 11th 2016

Edward Green recently made this video showing step-by-step the stages of making a pair of shoes in the Northampton factory. I like the lack of pretentiousness to it - others would desaturate the imagery, use slow motion to linger over particular par...

Video: Edward Green shoes being made in Northampton

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Personally I think the Dainite is too thick - the city rubber sole would be OK, but the Dainite is a bit too chunky. Right on the London Grain, but a cord suit could be nice with it...

Shoes - VideoOctober 11th 2016

Interview: John Happ of Alden, and the danger of ...

October 5th 2016

During Alden’s recent trunk show at Trunk Clothiers in London, I chatted to John Happ (Alden’s Director of European Sales) about why he dislikes talking about heritage - and the penny loafers they didn’t make for Ernest Hemingway. ...

Interview: John Happ of Alden, and the danger of ...

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I find it works OK actually. A nice look with white socks too, if that's your thing......

ShoesOctober 5th 2016

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the b...

September 23rd 2016

The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire trousers in three different shades of grey. Ever...

Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the b...

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It's not mine, but I believe it's Frank Clegg https://frankcleggleatherworks.com/...

ShoesSeptember 23rd 2016

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

September 16th 2016

Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching ready-to-wear, setting up your own factory off the back of...

Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years

Match in comments:
Hi Simon, Is the Mr Olivier Rosenfeld 3rd owner of Gaziano&Girling ?...

ShoesSeptember 16th 2016

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

August 29th 2016

Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white lightweight pique-cotton shirt made by Luc...

Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)

Match in comments:
Cheers Andrew! I can't say I have though on exactly that shade of Olive. The Anglo Italian ones are pretty close...

Jackets - KnitwearAugust 29th 2016

Holiday snaps 2016: Linen bomber, cotton trousers...

August 1st 2016

  A brief post today, with some pictures from holiday. Casual but still classic in cut and colour, and catering to the heat. First, above, ‘Dani’ espadrilles from La Portegna. I’m still in two minds about these,...

Holiday snaps 2016: Linen bomber, cotton trousers...

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We're looking into a dark brown as well as the navy...

Casual clothing - Glasses and jewelleryAugust 1st 2016

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxf...

July 15th 2016

These bespoke oxfords from Stefano Bemer are the best fitting shoes I have ever owned. The zenith of - from a fit point of view - everything that bespoke should be. But before I go into the product, I want to talk about the style. Because whatever ...

The best fit yet: Stefano Bemer tobacco-suede oxf...

Match in comments:
Noted! Thank you for your advice, Simon....

ShoesJuly 15th 2016

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & ...

June 29th 2016

I promised on my original post that I would tell readers when these loafers were available to buy, and they now are. The site www.baudoinandlange.com is up and running and you can now purchase, rather than just pre-order. I thought I'd also use t...

The Sagan loafers are ready, from Baudoin & ...

Match in comments:
They’re a higher quality level, most obviously in the materials, such as the upper and the lining inside. The Belgians are great, but not a luxury level there...

ShoesJune 29th 2016

The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan B...

June 8th 2016

I recently became involved with - and more importantly, started using - the best Belgian-style loafers I have ever worn. They are made by Allan Baudoin, a French bespoke shoemaker who now lives in England and has a workshop in east London. The Sagan...

The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan B...

Match in comments:
I agree on black with some outfits, yes. The Sagan Grand is still a delicate, fine shoe though, it won't look very workwear. It can work (see slippers at Brycelands) but it will be much more of a look...

ShoesJune 8th 2016

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

May 26th 2016

If you like the style and structure of Saint Crispin's shoes, they offer some of the best value available anywhere. Pictured here is my first pair, made a couple of months ago - a wingtip in brown, with an alligator adelaide section around the lace...

Saint Crispin’s shoes – Review

Match in comments:
My advice, stay loyal to the artisan. It may cost you to get the fit right but I’d say to hang in.I can totally concur with your situation here....

Shoes - May 26th 2016

Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear

May 20th 2016

Yesterday's post raised a few questions about other aspects of the outfit - specifically the black suede shoes and cream-coloured cardigan. I think it's interested to discuss both together, for stylistically they have many things in common. I'm a ...

Black suede shoes, and cream knitwear

Match in comments:
Very true...

Knitwear - ShoesMay 20th 2016

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

May 2nd 2016

When I visited shoemaker Philippe Atienza (above) in his new Parisian atelier, back in March, his furniture had just arrived. Some nice chairs, rugs, tables, and a lot of old machinery. He’d been in the space for three weeks, but it was fina...

Philippe Atienza, bespoke shoemaker, Paris

Match in comments:
No sorry Chris, it's actually been a little neglected. I will try to get to it again. Thanks for the reminder...

ShoesMay 2nd 2016

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

April 27th 2016

A few weeks ago I received my final pair of Foster & Son bespoke shoes. The process has, unfortunately, been both good and bad. First, the good. The fitting I had with John Spencer – Foster’s lastmaker – was impr...

Foster & Son bespoke shoes: Review

Match in comments:
In the case of these shoes, yes it would have made them rather more casual. They were intended to be smarter than that. But in general, you're right I don't have medallions that often. I hadn't actually though about it b...

ShoesApril 27th 2016

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

April 22nd 2016

The following is an extract from my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands , published by Prestel. Dedicated copies are available to buy here – James Smith & Sons Two or three times every day, ...

James Smith & Son umbrellas, London

Match in comments:
Thanks Charles, I didn't realise that about the different synthetic canopies...

Shoes - Socks and underwearApril 22nd 2016

The Rake collaborations

April 21st 2016

I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them first hand, inde...

The Rake collaborations

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The Husaren boots are the ones I had in mind to be worn in wintery blizzards with your new Sexton Great Coat....

Hanks and scarves - ShoesApril 21st 2016

How to wear trainers – 1: Design

April 20th 2016

Designer trainers – or sneakers as our American friends call them – are all the rage. A cynic would say that’s because brands have realised they can make big margins on a cheap, lightly designed product. An optimist ...

How to wear trainers – 1: Design

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Both are nice. I would go for the beige just because I already have a similar white. I sized up one from my normal...

ShoesApril 20th 2016

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

April 13th 2016

This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material. When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herrin...

Your next sports jacket: Oatmeal cashmere from El...

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I think that could like nice Wes, yes, in the right cut/style of jacket....

Jackets - ShoesApril 13th 2016

Book signing at the Opening of LeatherFoot, Toronto

April 11th 2016

When I fantasise about running my own shop, stocked with the greatest menswear money can buy, it normally involves having the finest tailor and the finest shoemaker on site, beavering away just for me. I discovered last week that Ideyi of the sho...

Book signing at the Opening of LeatherFoot, Toronto

Match in comments:
They have closed I'm afraid...

Shoes - April 11th 2016