Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...
Reader question: Differences between bespoke tailors
CS, Los Angeles: I have been reading PS for the last few months in an effort to educate myself on various matters of style. First and foremost, I want to thank you for the time and effort you put into your work in this area. I suspect that you have a...
Sartoria Vergallo houndstooth blazer
Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo is one of those tailors that is always interested in new ideas. He was intrigued, therefore, by the bells and whistles I suggested putting on this houndstooth jacket we made last year. I wanted, primarily, to giv...
Sartoria Vergallo houndstooth blazer
Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo is one of those tailors that is always interested in new ideas. He was intrigued, therefore, by the bells and whistles I suggested putting on this houndstooth jacket we made last year. I wanted, primarily, to giv...
Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket
This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe.Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: with a shirt a...
Hopsack blazer: the perfect summer jacket
This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe.Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: with a shirt a...
The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known
At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the event, and I thought the best way to r...
The Holland & Sherry cloths I have known
At the Young Tailors Symposium in a couple of weeks, we will have one floor of the Stefano Bemer atelier dedicated to my favourite Holland & Sherry cloths. Holland & Sherry have generously supported the event, and I thought the best way to r...
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore.I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') and subverting its connotations w...
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore.I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') and subverting its connotations w...
Brands need to talk about product
There are several ways to define the menswear we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. It also tends to be classed as luxury because such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should ...
Brands need to talk about product
There are several ways to define the menswear we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. It also tends to be classed as luxury because such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should ...
Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review
Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...
Sartoria Panico grey-flannel suit: Review
Apologies to those that had been waiting a while for coverage of this suit. It was finished in the Spring, but Japanese magazine Men’s Precious asked me to wait until it had been shot as part of a feature before publishing. The photographs here ar...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendati...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018
This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendati...
New York bespoke tailors - Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...
New York bespoke tailors - Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misin...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...
Solito summer jacket: Style breakdown
The next area we move onto in our Style Breakdown series is Naples - which might have more high-end bespoke tailors than anywhere else in the world. Neapolitan tailoring is known for its soft jackets, with light shoulder padding and chest canvas, bo...
Introducing: The leather envelope folio
Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry a phone, wallet, keys, headpho...
Introducing: The leather envelope folio
Writing about this leather folio feels like a release more than anything else. It is the result of two years of work, back and forth, with the aim to produce a simple but beautiful hand-sewn envelope - in which to carry a phone, wallet, keys, headpho...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...
Prologue semi-bespoke summer jacket: Review
This is the summer jacket that Hong Kong outfit Prologue have been making for me over the past six months. It is finally ready, with two fittings, and I think the result is great. It’s not perfect, but the fit is good and the work solid too. If...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapoli...
Panico flannel suit: Style breakdown
(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.) Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapoli...
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter. Despite the ...
Introducing: The Donegal Overcoat
This is the Donegal Overcoat. Yarn from Donegal, woven in Lancashire and manufactured in Manchester. As an idea, it had its origins in the observation that I wore my brown raglan coat (shown here) more often than any other last winter. Despite the ...
The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review
This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. T...
The Anthology bespoke tailoring: Review
This is my first suit from Hong Kong and Taipei-based tailor The Anthology. Launched in 2018, The Anthology was created by the combination of London-educated Buzz Tang (below) and Hong Kong tailor Andy Chong, using a workshop in mainland China. T...
Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli
I’ve been looking at a lot of old Ralph Lauren imagery in recent months. Because of the 50th anniversary, but also because of the Ivy Style talk we did in New York, where everyone admitted some kind of debt to Ralph, and reading In His Own Fashion ...
Grey and lilac: Ralph Lauren style, in Cifonelli
I’ve been looking at a lot of old Ralph Lauren imagery in recent months. Because of the 50th anniversary, but also because of the Ivy Style talk we did in New York, where everyone admitted some kind of debt to Ralph, and reading In His Own Fashion ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've neve...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've neve...
Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings
“And what lining would you like in the suit?” “Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.” This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And with good reason. Coloured or patterned linin...
Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings
“And what lining would you like in the suit?” “Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.” This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And with good reason. Coloured or patterned linin...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket
A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always button your jacket
A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow this rule ...